Don't know what's wrong: Did I mess up?

Tony the beat

420 Member
Hi fellow cannabislovers!
I have some issues that Im not shure of What it is.

I’ll start from the begining:

I’ll grow with Biotabs and their full set-up exxept from silikum flash. (Not availible in my country)
If one uses biotab one should use a light mix soil. But know for some reason I went with a soil that has some dry organic amendments in it. Not strong but still amendet.
The girls were super happy in veg and no matter how much I delfoiated and supercropped thay bounced back within hours.
Flipped to flower 25 days a go. So 3 1/2 week in to flower. The biotabs been in the soil for 5 weeks and now We just gave them orgatrex and bactrex as instructed.
after that I noticed some yellowing and thought of deficiencys but after looking on the internet it Does not seem al clear what the problem might be.

Also noticed very much Brown hairs on some plants. More than 60% of the hair is Brown.
The yellowing is not only at bottom its randomly and some leaves has it on the tip and some at the ’bottom’ or should I say at the base of the leaf.
The leaf-stems are purple.

Could I have exxes or deficiency?
lockout or stress?
the leafs are very dark green on the tall sativas and only dark green on the other girls.
I have looked a bit for nanners but its to crowded in the room to se clearly. On monday I can get them out of the room and look closer.
I also rised the light today if the strains are sensitiv.
Ph is also high in my tapwater +8, started to mix tapwater with water from dehumidfier to get it below ph8 now about ph 7.8. We want to adjust ph to lower levels but We are afraid it will mess with the microbial life in the soil.


growroom stats

55% Rh
26 C during day and about 22 C at night
12/12 cycle
Autopots
Soil 50% perlite 50%

strains

Sour Diesel (Brown hairs, yellowing)
Trainwreck (Brown hairs, yellowing)
Blue dream (look like it has exxes of N)
Chemdawg (strange discolouring on leaves)
Lemon haze (light and Windows burn. No photo of that since I know What it is)

tried to take pictures of the Brown hair but light made them look more White than in reality.

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I see several things going on. First, that lower mottled look on the fan leaf looks like thrips. Please check for bugs down low there and get rid of those damaged leaves to try to slow it down. You are too far into flower to spray a lot of stuff, but there are some natural remedies you can still use.

Next, I see a combination of multiple macro nutrients, mobile nutrients since this is starting to take out leaves down below so as to supply the buds with what they need. Based on your description, this appears to be a human error... you are adjusting your pH incorrectly.

In this grow, since you are feeding the plants from a bottle, microbes are not feeding the plant. Doing something in order to preserve microbes is not needed. Also, check your assumption that pH bothers the microbes in the first place. The ONLY reason we adjust pH is to get synthetic nutrients into the pH range where they become mobile in the soil... the microbes don't care about the pH and neither do the plants.

But since you are not even close to the correct pH for your nutes to become mobile, your plants can't see your nutes, and you are getting these deficiencies.

Follow a feed/water/feed/water pattern all throughout this grow and whether it is plain water or water mixed with nutes, adjust your pH exactly to 6.3 every time just before applying it to the soil. This in my opinion will solve your deficiency problems without adjusting or adding anything else.

edit: please read my next post... I was assuming you were feeding the plant in a different way and that the biotabs was that nutrient and that pH was much more important than it is.
 
A follow up after looking up biotabs. I was assuming at first that this was a nutrient, but these are simply microbes... where is the food? Its not in the light soil. You said you gave some dry amendments in the soil, so please describe this process and what you used. It looks like phosphorus and potassium are in low supply here. Other than the amendments, have you given any other nutrients?
 
Biotabs are like a livingsoil. You feed the soil wich feed the plant.
Its microbes, fungi, macro and micro. Its a water only exept they offer PK-boost in form of powder for tea-brewing.
And once during a grow you add some extra bacteria.
you cant just use biotabs in coco for example without adding anything because it needs the bacteria, fungi etc to start working.
its a great working system that took them decades to fullfill.
I have used it before with great results but this time something wasn’t right in my head so I used the amendmented soil.
I think its to hot or/and nutrient-imbalance that is created by me using soil with amendments in. It should have been light mix.

I write this is in ”me”, but its actully my friends grow but he wont use internet.
so for the question of amendments I can get the list of it and the amounts given tomorow. He had a note he said.

gonna help him look for thrips tomorow.
I hoped you would see this thread Emilya:)
 
As for the ph I was thinking if its all to high it might be to much even in organic.

>ph 8 is very high. But mixning it with the wastewater from the dehumidfier gets it down under 8.

should he use only tapwater the rest of time? Its good drinking water but high ph.
 
if there is chlorine in the tap water, it will slowly over time kill off microbes. ph of 8 seems awfully high for tap water though, but something is lacking in this grow. The pH might be a bit out of the normal range and needs to be adjusted down a bit. Still trying to understand though... are you saying that this time instead of using a supersoil mix as your substrate you instead amended regular soil?
 
if there is chlorine in the tap water, it will slowly over time kill off microbes. ph of 8 seems awfully high for tap water though, but something is lacking in this grow. The pH might be a bit out of the normal range and needs to be adjusted down a bit. Still trying to understand though... are you saying that this time instead of using a supersoil mix as your substrate you instead amended regular soil?

I dont know if its chlorine in the water or not. Its not noticeable in the taste. Its the water We drink here. Anyway, most often he let the water sit for a day before adding it to the tank. But not allways. The Autopot have a tank with water so its automaticly sit in the resovare most of time so most is dechlorinezed (is that even a word or did I make that up myself?)

so normaly he use a non fertilized organic soil from a lokal gardening shop as biotabs says so in its description as the biotab-system contains everything that is needed for a full cycle.

But this time he used the soil he has for other gardening purposes. He has a Nice Outdoorgarden and the cannabis is his medicin and is grown inside. Using 6 hgl quantumboards (samsung).
Here is what he added to the soil, I first write it in liter-form and further down I have translated it to US CUP. (If that help, I dont know)

All of these are organic:

120 liter of non fertilized organic soil

4dl of an ’all purpose garden fertilzer’ NPK 6-3-12 + micronutrients and S 5.6
(Dont know whats S is)

7dl of ’micro life booster’ 5-4-3
(Trace minerals, algies, bacteria, etc etc)

3dl of blodmeal 14-0-0

3dl of Bonemeal 7-9-0

4dl of chicken manure in pellet-form

4dl of batguano 2-12-2

3 dl of ’tomatoe’ fertilizer 6-3-13 (also micronutrients and S 1.2 )

4 liter of wormcastings

2dl of mykorhiza

1 dl Epsom salt

I dont know how to count this togheter?

Can I just add all N togheter and all P togheter and all K togheter?

And then the amounts?

For example:

All N together is 44.2
All P together is 23
All K together is 32.3

And the total amount of amendments are 23dl (2.3 liter)

120 liter non fertilized soil with 2.3 liter of NPK 44.2-23-32.3 ?

Is this how I should count?

Is it much or not much?

120 liter soil is for 8 pots with 15 liter each

Thats is roughly 2.9 dl of admendments per pot. If I dont count epsomsalt, wormcastings and mykorhiza

Sounds a bit much But I really dont have a clue

I add a picture of the wormcastings, the NPK is in mg/liter so I dont know how to count that in.




In us cups and us gallons:
All of these are organic:



1.69 US CUP of ’all purpose garden fertilzer’ NPK 6-3-12 + micronutrients and S 5.6



2.95 US CUP of micro life booster 5-4-3
( all kinds of stuff in here to enhence microbial life and also much minerals and trace minerals etc)


1.27 US CUPS of blodmeal 14-0-0



1.27 US CUPS of Bonemeal 7-9-0



1.69 US CUPS of chicken manure in pellet-form



1.69 US CUPS of batguano 2-12-2



1.27 US CUPS of tomatoe fertilizer 6-3-13 (also micronutrients and S 1.2 )



0.85 US CUPS of mykorhiza



0.42 US CUPS of Epsom salt



17 US CUPS of wormcastings


Total is almost 12 us cups of NPK 44.2-23-32.3
If thats how I should count, i really dont have a clue.

I did not count wormcastings, mykorhiza and epsomsalt here either.


All these admendments where mix in 32 US GALLON non fertilized organic soil.

Divided in to 8 pcs of 4 gallon pots

Total amendment is 12 cups divided in 8 pots is 1.5 US CUPS amendments per 4 gallon pot.
He mixed these amendments i a tub he has and then moister it and semi-covering it and let it sit for 4-6 weeks.

Im so excited to here your thoughts on this☺️☺️
As you might can tell I dont know What Im talking about so just ask anything you want to clear thing out.

/love Tony.

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I think you might have just given me the clue as to what is wrong here. This soil with all the amendments has not been cooked long enough... 4 to 6 weeks is not nearly enough time. 3 months would be more like it and should be the minimum amount of time to compost this soil into a form that can support our plants. Now it is making more sense why you are having macro nutrient deficiencies... the soil was not ready.
 
But thats a good thing then? I mean as the biotab company says you should use non fertilized soil:)

Anyway. Now today the soil been mixed for 3 months.
first 6 weeks in the tub and then ~a month in veg and 3 1/2 week of flower.

What about the amounts in?
is it much or little?

its not as strong as a supersoil I guess?

and also Im wondering if I can count the way I did? Just add all N togheter and then the P etc?

edit:
We should maybe have in mind that its roughly 60-70 liter (16 gallon) of soil as 120 liter (32 gallon) is the total amount and includes almost 50% perlite as recomended when using autopots.
 
I just spoke to him and he Said that now the high sativa strains has started to show quite a bit of nuteburn. Its the same strains that also have very darkgreen leafs.
 
I was just reading up on water for plants the other day. Said using R/O, Distilled, Water softeners, etc. remove most the Calcium & Magnesium from the water. I would think using water from a dehumidifier can't be good. Why not pH your nutes or water ? You can always use Lemon Juice to lower your pH. I wouldn't even consider using my nutes or water without a pH between 6.3 - 6.5. I've heard all the stories of how it's not necessary; but I'm not listening to that one. I have pretty good success my way so if it's not broke... don't fix it.
 
I was just reading up on water for plants the other day. Said using R/O, Distilled, Water softeners, etc. remove most the Calcium & Magnesium from the water. I would think using water from a dehumidifier can't be good. Why not pH your nutes or water ? You can always use Lemon Juice to lower your pH. I wouldn't even consider using my nutes or water without a pH between 6.3 - 6.5. I've heard all the stories of how it's not necessary; but I'm not listening to that one. I have pretty good success my way so if it's not broke... don't fix it.
I heard the same about destilled water. But mixing it with tapwater might work?

about Ph, do you use all organic?
I dont know if lemonjuice is a good option as there a resovar tank that feed the autopots with water. Lemonjuice is not stabile and the water ph will rise in the resovar after some time. And Im afraid it will clug up the lines (6mm soft pipes)
I probebly use a lot of wrong words when I write as my english is not that good.

Can one use ’chemichal’ ph-down when one use living soil or will the microbial life die?
 
The only reason we pH adjust is when using synthetic nutes. Organic microbes do not work in only a certain pH range... they don't care.

Because of all the things you have added to that soil, I believe you are experiencing lockout, not shortages. Certain elements interact with each other, some helping each other but mostly blocking each other's access to the roots. You have way too much N in there, and it is not cooked in. Growing time doesn't count in the cooking. Your P and K are likely being locked out. Building an enriched soil is not as easy as it sounds, ratios matter a lot.
Mulders chart will give you the clues as to what is going on here:
mulders chart.png
 
I heard the same about destilled water. But mixing it with tapwater might work?

about Ph, do you use all organic?
I dont know if lemonjuice is a good option as there a resovar tank that feed the autopots with water. Lemonjuice is not stabile and the water ph will rise in the resovar after some time. And Im afraid it will clug up the lines (6mm soft pipes)
I probebly use a lot of wrong words when I write as my english is not that good.

Can one use ’chemichal’ ph-down when one use living soil or will the microbial life die?
Didn't really read enough to know you were doing organic. I have no clue when it comes to that type of grow. Sorry.
But I do still wonder about water that's passed over a coil in a dehumidifier being OK or not.
 
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