Flush Question - 30 day Flush

[Pop Kulture]

I am currently in my third week of bloom in my organic soil grow (Fox Farm Ocean Forest and roots organics nutes). Also, I have read numerous posts regarding flushing plants as part of the final two weeks before harvest, but nothing regarding the 30 day flush.

My question is: Does anyone do a full flush every 30 days from the start of their grow? Jorge Cervantes' book and/or video indicates that plants produce wastes that end up in the soil and can cause root lock thus locking out the plant's uptake of nutrients. Is this true? I have not found a single post/thread that speaks to this issue.

Any comments?

Does anyone do this (flush all plants every 30 days)?

 

[The303Stoner]

I was flushing every week during one grow but that was heavy in ocean forest lol. Once a month is ok. I do if I think the plant needs it but in soil I think if you feed good(don't over feed) and have good water you only need to flush before harvest.

 

[Droopy Dog]

The 30 day flush .....

If not a religion, it sure has at least cult status. LOL

I can see flushing in the event of over nuting and that's pretty much it.

If you do proper waterings and wet/dry cycle, you would never need to flush .... EVER!!!!!!!

When you water properly, which means fully saturating the soil and having a decent run off, that is called LEACHING and is in effect a mini flush. Stuff never builds up enough to cause problems and you don't stress the plant by removing (almost) everything from the soil, as with a flush. Let dry.

I mostly use an amended mix, but if I need to add bottled nutes (EJ), I'll add the nutes the day after watering and then allow to dry. I apply nutes to run off also. Run off is a good thing. So is letting the plant dry out.

The flushing rules really don't apply to organic soil grows.

DD

 

[Pop Kulture]

The 30 day flush .....

If not a religion, it sure has at least cult status. LOL

I can see flushing in the event of over nuting and that's pretty much it.

If you do proper waterings and wet/dry cycle, you would never need to flush .... EVER!!!!!!!

When you water properly, which means fully saturating the soil and having a decent run off, that is called LEACHING and is in effect a mini flush. Stuff never builds up enough to cause problems and you don't stress the plant by removing (almost) everything from the soil, as with a flush. Let dry.

I mostly use an amended mix, but if I need to add bottled nutes (EJ), I'll add the nutes the day after watering and then allow to dry. I apply nutes to run off also. Run off is a good thing. So is letting the plant dry out.

The flushing rules really don't apply to organic soil grows.

DD

 

[Freedakat]

Hi! New member here, so I hope this is a proper place to ask this... sounds like it! I'm also going by Cervantes... I'm trying to leach as per the book, which says to flush with two gallons per gallon of soil. Plant is vegging in a 3-gallon black plastic bucket from the nursery. Drainage is by four ~1 inch squares around the bottom of the container. The medium is Dr. Earth Premium Organic Potting Soil (straight, no added vermiculite, etc.). I transplanted a week ago from a 6" container. Since then the soil has seemed rather damp; maybe too much. Growth has also seemed slow since the very beginning. (Started from about a 5" clone. Now about a foot tall.) This morning I saw that the leaves were curled up at the edges. According to the book (photo, pg. 246), this could indicate toxic salt buildup, lack of water, or heat stress. I know it's not lack of water, and the temp has been staying between ~68 and 75 degrees, mostly 72 to 75. So I thought it might be salt buildup, since the soil hadn't been leached before at all. But it's taking forever! The water pools on top of the soil, and is very slow to drain through. How quickly is the water supposed to flow through when leaching? Is there a way to increase the drainage without transplanting again? (It's too soggy now to do so... I think.) Apart from the slight curling of the leaves at the edges, it looks pretty good. The only other thing is that the upper leaves seem to be drooping a bit -- or rather, their stems. (But a couple of days ago they were fine.) What should I do? I'm a total newbie at this, so any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Freedakat

 

[Icemud]

The 30 day flush .....

If not a religion, it sure has at least cult status. LOL

I can see flushing in the event of over nuting and that's pretty much it.

If you do proper waterings and wet/dry cycle, you would never need to flush .... EVER!!!!!!!

When you water properly, which means fully saturating the soil and having a decent run off, that is called LEACHING and is in effect a mini flush. Stuff never builds up enough to cause problems and you don't stress the plant by removing (almost) everything from the soil, as with a flush. Let dry.

I mostly use an amended mix, but if I need to add bottled nutes (EJ), I'll add the nutes the day after watering and then allow to dry. I apply nutes to run off also. Run off is a good thing. So is letting the plant dry out.

The flushing rules really don't apply to organic soil grows.

DD

How about before harvest with organics...I have read its not necessary with organics, but I have seen both sides of the argument....what do you recommend?

 

[Captain Kronic]

How about before harvest with organics...I have read its not necessary with organics, but I have seen both sides of the argument....what do you recommend?

If you do proper waterings and wet/dry cycle, you would never need to flush .... EVER!!!!!!!

The flushing rules really don't apply to organic soil grows.

DD

 

[Captain Kronic]

What is your PH runoff, how often have you been watering and what are you feeding with... got pics?

That's a small enough container that you should be able to pop that bitch and have a look inside.

Hi! New member here, so I hope this is a proper place to ask this... sounds like it! I'm also going by Cervantes... I'm trying to leach as per the book, which says to flush with two gallons per gallon of soil. Plant is vegging in a 3-gallon black plastic bucket from the nursery. Drainage is by four ~1 inch squares around the bottom of the container. The medium is Dr. Earth Premium Organic Potting Soil (straight, no added vermiculite, etc.). I transplanted a week ago from a 6" container. Since then the soil has seemed rather damp; maybe too much. Growth has also seemed slow since the very beginning. (Started from about a 5" clone. Now about a foot tall.) This morning I saw that the leaves were curled up at the edges. According to the book (photo, pg. 246), this could indicate toxic salt buildup, lack of water, or heat stress. I know it's not lack of water, and the temp has been staying between ~68 and 75 degrees, mostly 72 to 75. So I thought it might be salt buildup, since the soil hadn't been leached before at all. But it's taking forever! The water pools on top of the soil, and is very slow to drain through. How quickly is the water supposed to flow through when leaching? Is there a way to increase the drainage without transplanting again? (It's too soggy now to do so... I think.) Apart from the slight curling of the leaves at the edges, it looks pretty good. The only other thing is that the upper leaves seem to be drooping a bit -- or rather, their stems. (But a couple of days ago they were fine.) What should I do? I'm a total newbie at this, so any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Freedakat