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How To Use Progressive Web App aka PWA On 420 Magazine Forum
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That should be plenty of passive air intake and as far as an active air intake u never ever ever want a active air intake as big as ur air outage that a major mistake u want a some what negative pressure in your tent so for one it doesn't bulge out and two it help capture all of the smells and seal up and small leaks around the seamsI was thinking of going active air intake but im not sure if i need it now. The tent is 2ft D x 4ft W x 5ft H. The exhaust fan is a 440 CFM with a carbon filter. I have a 20" L x 4" H and 2 12" L X 4" H side and rear vents on the bottom of the tent near the drip catcher. The 440 CFM will be mounted inside the tent on a low setting.
I was going to put an active 440CFM blowing fresh air but i think that would be overkill since ill have a clip on fan for circulation and the 440 exhaust fan has more than enough power to suck the air out and refill the tent.
Thoughts??
I have a question about that set-up. With the understanding that hot air rises, should you be pushing heated air through your light and on out the tent?Great thread!
Look forward to following along on this one.
Forgive me if I'm jumping the gun in the lessons, if this is coming up I'm happy to wait it out.
Curious people's thoughts on fan pushing through air cooled hoods vs pulling.
I've read conflicting sides and have tested it both ways, only thing I believe to be an upside to pulling is the suction created helps to seal the light, vs pushing expands the seals lowering the air cooled hoods efficiency.
I've read that pulling creates excessive heat in the motor, reducing motor life. That seems believable.
I've update this setup since but it's bed time for the ladies and didn't want to disturb their rest to snap a picture.
Pretty cold idk an exact temp cause the most depends on like wattage how hot the bulb is but I've seen people run chilling before thier hoods so I mean ik that could lower Temps dramaticallyHow cool can the air be that's pulled passed the bulb?
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Pretty cold idk an exact temp cause the most depends on like wattage how hot the bulb is but I've seen people run chilling before thier hoods so I mean ik that could lower Temps dramatically
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OK well if u having trouble keeping heat have u considered doing a sealed grow room and using co2 enrichment?I wonder if i could pose a different type of question? What is the minimum air exchange necessary for good growth? The heat issue i have is opposite from almost all growers i see on this site. I need to heat my space in a stand alone shed outside in the north country. Just came through a cold spell of -20C. Heating that much air would be impossible not to mention expensive.
Thanks for your input!
Heyy back again today with our next topic of conversation which is passive vs active intake in any type of grow space. But before I begin I'm gonna give shout out to my man Pigeons420 who inspired me to begin these pages this for you man!!!
So what is passive and active air?? Passive air is allowing free flowing air to enter the room through the natural negative pressure that your room has with the exhaust fan going. Active air is forcing air into room with a separate intake fan. Now you question probably is which of theses systems is better? Well neither has been proven to be better than the other one in general it just all depends on cost and way room is set up. The general idea of both of these setup is to all air while keeping a NEGATIVE pressure in your grow this prevents smells from leaking and air existing out other places.
So first we will cover passive air passive uses and exhaust fan and just standard holes to allow fresh air to come into but how much is enough?? In a passsive air system you air intake hole or holes should be at least 3 times size of intake hole when added together and still be filtered I would suggest cutting an air filter used on house ac system at least 2 to 3 layer to prevent insects and other debris from comming into room.
Now onto passive air intake your fan cfm needs to configured as 75 percent of total cfm of the exhaust cfm you figured up in Mondays post to keep that negative pressure where it sure be and should be filtered coming into your room just as your exhaust does out of room.
As always pics comments and discussion is always welcome and always always keep it frosty you guys!!
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A basic 300 cfm should work fine for u and there many different ways u can make intake holes yes a ac system will pull air as if an intake but it is not enough to do it on its own is your 9x9 room a bedroom or where is located that will help decided intake locations a lot better hoping to hear from u soonHey Chan,
Thanks for starting this up... ive been researching like crazy to get a grow room started. Please keep it going...
The size of the room I want to work with is 9ftL x 9ft W x8ft H. So my cfm is 216 *1.25 = 270 cfm. To create a negative pressure room I divid 270 by 75% to get 360 cfm exhaust fan size. Then I make make 3, 6" or 8" holes in the room for air intake. Those are pretty big holes. Where do you put em? Door? Can the A/C or air from A/C provide sufficient air intake?
Thanks