How do I grow big plants?

[guerrillabalconygrower]

I’ve seen almost all growers here grow big Berthas and massive plants. Over the 2 grows I’ve completed, i haven’t got my plant grow more than a couple feet tall. And only the photo plants. Autos have been tiny and almost not worth the effort and time.

What am I doing wrong? How can I improve?

My constraints/ framework:
1. Outdoor grow only. No artificial light
2. 8 inch fabric pots
3. Soil + Perlite + Coco mix soil
4. Organic and synthetic nutes

 

[Lerugged]

In general, the more space for roots, the more shoots you get.
If you can, some people are having amazing results using SIP-type pots. They seem to get bigger in those. I grow mostly outdoors and I use the biggest pots I can get (100l to 250l). But from what I can see, the SIP planters can be smaller and grow some big girls. Other than that, the sun should be perfect for lighting, you need to get them at least 7 hours or longer in direct sunlight for them to get massive.
Then it is a case of feeding them correctly and watering them correctly.
I'm lucky enough to grow all year in my location. My main grow is 9 months from sprout to harvest but, if you don't have such a luxury, you could start them indoors on a sunny window sill or, under some general-purpose CFL light bulbs.
Then you move them out when the weather and daylight hours are suitable.
hope that helps

 

[guerrillabalconygrower]

In general, the more space for roots, the more shoots you get.
If you can, some people are having amazing results using SIP-type pots. They seem to get bigger in those. I grow mostly outdoors and I use the biggest pots I can get (100l to 250l). But from what I can see, the SIP planters can be smaller and grow some big girls. Other than that, the sun should be perfect for lighting, you need to get them at least 7 hours or longer in direct sunlight for them to get massive.
Then it is a case of feeding them correctly and watering them correctly.
I'm lucky enough to grow all year in my location. My main grow is 9 months from sprout to harvest but, if you don't have such a luxury, you could start them indoors on a sunny window sill or, under some general-purpose CFL light bulbs.
Then you move them out when the weather and daylight hours are suitable.
hope that helps

100 lit?? That’s not a pot, it’s a tank! I’ve seen most advising 5 Gal pots which would be 20 lit.

Anyways, I’m my case I only have the luxury of ~10lit pots. But the buds seem airy and low in numbers

 

[Azimuth]

As @Lerugged said, it's about the roots. Watering is what trips up many growers and the SIPs solve that problem since the plant waters itself.

With enough veg time (about 2 months) growers are getting close to or over a pound in 5 gallon buckets. There are a couple of growers that are going to stop growing with SIPs because the plants get too big.

Nice problem to have.

And then you need to have good access to direct sunlight, and good nutes and a good soil mix if you're growing organically. Mixing organic and synthetic nutes? You need to pick a side as they're really not compatible with each other.

 

[Lerugged]

Then I'd go with 10l SIPS.

 

[Azimuth]

Anyways, I’m my case I only have the luxury of ~10lit pots. But the buds seem airy and low in numbers

Because why?

 

[guerrillabalconygrower]

Because why?

Limited grow space.

 

[guerrillabalconygrower]

As @Lerugged said, it's about the roots. Watering is what trips up many growers and the SIPs solve that problem since the plant waters itself.

With enough veg time (about 2 months) growers are getting close to or over a pound in 5 gallon buckets. There are a couple of growers that are going to stop growing with SIPs because the plants get too big.

Nice problem to have.

And then you need to have good access to direct sunlight, and good nutes and a good soil mix if you're growing organically. Mixing organic and synthetic nutes? You need to pick a side as they're really not compatible with each other.

So with a SIP setup, I just don’t have to worry about watering at all? What about in the seedling stage? Can I directly sow the seeds in final container?

 

[Nunyabiz]

My space is 2x5x9. Its a bathtub.
I run two 20 gallon and one 10 gallon fabric pot.
The 20 gallon pots usually produce 9.6 to 12 ounces per pot, the 10 gal usually 5 to 6oz.
All over 6 feet tall.
Big roots = big fruits

 

[Keffka]

10 gallon fabric pot.

These plants have been topped 3 times, and have had everything but 8 colas stripped from them and they’re still this size. You need bigger pots for bigger plants. If I didn’t top these they’d easily grow 10 feet tall.

 

[SmokingWings]

So with a SIP setup, I just don’t have to worry about watering at all? What about in the seedling stage?

I do not grow in a SIP set-up nor do I grow auto-flower plants. My understanding is that you will still have to be involved in the watering process to get the SIP primed, probably take a week or so. After than the plant takes water in as it needs it. The only thing the grower does is to be sure that there is water in the reservoir for the SIP. Other than that the gardener does not have to worry about how dry or how moist the soil is.

Limited grow space.

Photo-period plants are more tolerant of the little changes and hic-cups in the garden. They will recover and not skip a beat as the saying goes. So it is easier to get plants several feet high instead of only several inches like some see when growing auto-flower plants.

You are still growing on the balcony and if memory serves you did mention awhile ago that it was limited space. I don't know about the plastic fabric pots but I can get regular plastic pots in a 5 gallon size that have sides that are just an inch or two higher than a 3 gallon but are wide enough that they can hold a another gallon or two of a soil mix.

It really does seem that you need more light when the season comes around. I seem to remember discussing which way your windows and/or balcony face but I don't remember what was said.

 

[guerrillabalconygrower]

I do not grow in a SIP set-up nor do I grow auto-flower plants. My understanding is that you will still have to be involved in the watering process to get the SIP primed, probably take a week or so. After than the plant takes water in as it needs it. The only thing the grower does is to be sure that there is water in the reservoir for the SIP. Other than that the gardener does not have to worry about how dry or how moist the soil is.


Photo-period plants are more tolerant of the little changes and hic-cups in the garden. They will recover and not skip a beat as the saying goes. So it is easier to get plants several feet high instead of only several inches like some see when growing auto-flower plants.

You are still growing on the balcony and if memory serves you did mention awhile ago that it was limited space. I don't know about the plastic fabric pots but I can get regular plastic pots in a 5 gallon size that have sides that are just an inch or two higher than a 3 gallon but are wide enough that they can hold a another gallon or two of a soil mix.

It really does seem that you need more light when the season comes around. I seem to remember discussing which way your windows and/or balcony face but I don't remember what was said.

Great memory! Yes, south facing window but only 11 hrs of daylight currently. I’m planning to take up my next grow around march equinox so that photoperiod starts increasing progressively. Mid June to Late September it rains very heavy and there’s barely any direct light. Will do a round of photo and auto each and check the results.

On the topic of SIP: Isn’t this principally the same as bottom feeding?

 

[Bill284]

I’ve seen almost all growers here grow big Berthas and massive plants. Over the 2 grows I’ve completed, i haven’t got my plant grow more than a couple feet tall. And only the photo plants. Autos have been tiny and almost not worth the effort and time.

What am I doing wrong? How can I improve?

My constraints/ framework:
1. Outdoor grow only. No artificial light
2. 8 inch fabric pots
3. Soil + Perlite + Coco mix soil
4. Organic and synthetic nutes

Bigger pots make bigger root systems able to support larger plants.
Longer veg periods prior to flowering gives you that larger plant.
I use @Bill284 Method to grow big healthy roots.
This gives me a big healthy plant.
I ran coco with mostly MC nutrients in the entire greenhouse this summer.
Might be a little extra work but the control and results are my responsibility.
I like being in charge of nutrients and diet.
I find soil results can vary depending on your mixture.
I commend those capable of figuring it out.
My coco perlite layering works great and I can feed what's needed appropriately.
No worries about my soil mix.

Apple Betty @Herbies Seeds

One of many larger girls I grow.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Vegan4life]

Bigger roots bigger shoots! I grow in Living organic soil, 20 gallon pots. My last grow was 4 Auto flowers, I harvested 24 ounces of dry cured bud. When I start Auto flowers I plant the seeds in the final pot. I believe that if you grow a Auto in a small pot like the ones you are using, when the roots fill the pot it triggers them to flower, stopping the veg period. Giving you small plants. You should pick your growing style and growing medium, Living organic soil with organic amendments in large pots, 15 gallon or larger. Or Hydro with synthetic nutes, hempy buckets, coco, ebb and flow, Aeroponics or whatever type of hydro (I'm not into hydro). I know growers here have great results growing Hydro in smaller pots, coco or hempy. If you are limited on pot size that may be the route to take. Read read read, lots of great info here on 420Mag.

 

[Lerugged]

Was thinking a coco grow with synthetics would also do well.
I grow full organic with amendments I harvest from nature so I am almost no help with that style but, I know people get some big yeilds in smaller pots that way.

 

[Azimuth]

So with a SIP setup, I just don’t have to worry about watering at all? What about in the seedling stage? Can I directly sow the seeds in final container?

I find its better to treat them like a regular plant initially until they "catch" so lightly water them as a seedling, but once they get big enough you just pour water down the fill tube. Pretty fast and easy.

They'll look over-watered at first if you fill the reservoir from the jump because they are over-watered, but once they convert their roots they take off.

I flower in 2 gallon SIP buckets, and yes, you can plant your seed directly in the final container.

 

[guerrillabalconygrower]

Bigger roots bigger shoots! I grow in Living organic soil, 20 gallon pots. My last grow was 4 Auto flowers, I harvested 24 ounces of dry cured bud. When I start Auto flowers I plant the seeds in the final pot. I believe that if you grow a Auto in a small pot like the ones you are using, when the roots fill the pot it triggers them to flower, stopping the veg period. Giving you small plants. You should pick your growing style and growing medium, Living organic soil with organic amendments in large pots, 15 gallon or larger. Or Hydro with synthetic nutes, hempy buckets, coco, ebb and flow, Aeroponics or whatever type of hydro (I'm not into hydro). I know growers here have great results growing Hydro in smaller pots, coco or hempy. If you are limited on pot size that may be the route to take. Read read read, lots of great info here on 420Mag.

The problem there: I’ve planted in 3 gal containers and haven’t got the root to even fill half the pot. So I’m wondering what is it that I need to do to make it fill up.

I have one Sativa photo growing currently that’s a couple weeks into preflower. Pistils are just about starting to show up at different nodes. But it’s in a small pot right now. (Maybe 1 gal at best). Should I move it to a larger container? Or is it too late to do so?

 

[AgedMaster]

The problem there: I’ve planted in 3 gal containers and haven’t got the root to even fill half the pot. So I’m wondering what is it that I need to do to make it fill up.

I have one Sativa photo growing currently that’s a couple weeks into preflower. Pistils are just about starting to show up at different nodes. But it’s in a small pot right now. (Maybe 1 gal at best). Should I move it to a larger container? Or is it too late to do so?

Water until u get a little bit coming from bottom that way you no the pots fully saturated. And as others have said u need more light 11hrs isn't good it's pointless vegging plants this time of year u will get a spliff

 

[Azimuth]

I have one Sativa photo growing currently that’s a couple weeks into preflower. Pistils are just about starting to show up at different nodes. But it’s in a small pot right now. (Maybe 1 gal at best). Should I move it to a larger container? Or is it too late to do so?

Once flower starts the energy shifts from producing roots and growth over to flowers so you get very little new root development. So, this one's going to be a bit of a science experiment that will give you some knowledge for the next round.

 

[SmokingWings]

The problem there: I’ve planted in 3 gal containers and haven’t got the root to even fill half the pot. So I’m wondering what is it that I need to do to make it fill up.

Given time the roots will grow into the new soil. Right now they are super thin hair roots seeking water and water soluble nutrients. Also it depends on the size of the plant. The root system is usually the same size as the amount of growth above the soil line. The more stem and leaf growth the greater the need for a root system to absorb water, etc to meet the demands of all that green growth, including stems.

You will have a better idea but if you let the soil dry out too much between waterings many of the young roots can die back and then new ones start growing once the soil gets moist. This can slow down how fast they fill in the new soil after transplanting.

I have one Sativa photo growing currently that’s a couple weeks into preflower. Pistils are just about starting to show up at different nodes. But it’s in a small pot right now. (Maybe 1 gal at best). Should I move it to a larger container? Or is it too late to do so?

It is not too late. Pre-flowers do not mean that the plant is entering flowering. It means that the plant can go into a flowering stage anytime the lighting conditions are right. The pre-flowers have shown up on some of my plants while under 15, 16, and 18 hours of light and the plants never started growing buds; just the one preflower at most nodes and then eventually died.

The plants will continue to grow roots until it is into an active flowering stage.

The limiting factor is if you are trying to grow a decent sized plant with a root mass to match while relying on the 11 hours of available sunlight.