How often is it ok to adjust pH

[Nomoyo]

68is good and 72 to warm. I take it this is lights off/on. A couple suggestions to help with the higher temps. First, wrap your bucket with an insulating material, preferably something reflective. This should help stabilized the temps. Second, get a longer airline and move your air pump outside the tent to a cooler location. As of now you are pumping air, heated by your lights, through your nutrient solution. The air pump itself is a source of heat that may or may not be wanted in your tent as well. The bigger the pump the more heat it produces. By the way, bigger is better, you want your solution to look as though it is boiling when the air is on. I set my pump out side of the grow room and on a cool concrete floor, made a noticeable difference.

ill see if i can do that. Thank you

 

[Nomoyo]

"how low should i let my ec get before adding nutrients. Ive just been adding water"
Look at how this question approaches the issue is "What is the appropriate concentration and mix of nutes that my plant needs to thrive?"

A healthy plant is what you're aiming for, right? Cannabis plants in veg typically do well with an EC of 1.0 but that's only a general guideline.

Cutting Edge Solutions has a page on their site (click here) that a gives you information that's needed to mix the nutrients that you're using. Unless I had fact-based reasons to not follow their recommendations, I would follow their recommendations.

My practice is to add nutes and RO water to bring the res back to its state after my previous res change. From the information you have posted and the information on the Cutting Edge Solution web site leads me to conclude that you are not only underfeeding your plants but you're feeding them nutes that are mixed in the wrong ratios.

What is your water source? Without knowing the source of your water, it is impossible to provide accurate advice on how to feed your plant.

A key issue - as I've asked a few times - what is your water source?

Unless you're using RO or distilled, your water has an unknown level of nutrients in it.

If you're using city water, get a water quality report, and post a copy of it here. In the interim, stop using city water because we have no idea what's in it.

If you're on well water, get a water quality report and post it here but. In the interim, stop using well water because we have no idea what's in it.

Information about what's in your water forms the basis of how to feed your plants. If you've got well water with lots of calcium, for example, your nute mix should be different than if you're using distilled water or RO water.

Again, it would help if you moved this thread to Grow Journals and filled out the information that people need to make recommendations. The reason I stress this is that after sharing one piece of information about the nutes that you're using, it appears that you're feeding your plant not only too few nutes and that the nutes that you're created are mixed incorrectly.

Increasing the concentration of nutrients has had a direct and dramatic impact on your plant. Even in the short time that I've been growing cannabis, it's clear that it is a very hardy, forgiving plant. In just a few days, a simple change in what you're feeding your plant has…breathed the breath of life back into it. You were in a flat spin, but your plant is in much better shape now.

Hydro can be tough because it's all on the grower. It looks like your nutes are out of whack but the manufacturers website has good instructions on how to remedy that. Your water temp is a bit high but nothing that HydroGuard can't handle. Clean those two up and then make sure that the rest of the other factors (light, wind, etc.) stay in line and you will be amazed how this plant will reward you.

I was going to say thats alot of nutrients. ive tried doing this and it fried my plant completely

 

[Nomoyo]

ill maybe try out the recomended nutrient chart at %50 but last time that was too much

 

[Nomoyo]

ok so im mixing these nutrients and im only to the grow and my ppm is 732 and mc ec is 1557 and i havent even added Bloom or all the others after that. This thing is gonna fry like a hamburger on high heat

 

[Nomoyo]

this puppyIm just gonna mix them up and wait to hear what you say and ill just keep them ready in a new bucket and if you really think this is a good idea ill go ahead and fry this puppy up lol

 

[Nomoyo]

thereews no way this is ok. this has to be wrong

 

[Nomoyo]

i did it at %50 and my EC is now !.502

 

[Nomoyo]

i believe this plant will taste gross from too much nutrients If it doesnt die from too much nutrients

 

[TorturedSoul]

Just out of curiosity, what are you using for pH adjusters?

What brand/model is your meter? Are you storing the probe in storage solution, or...? Do you calibrate it regularly? Some consumer-grade electrical devices have really crappy shielding. Do the readings of your sample change if you power down everything that's nearby?

Plastic totes with lids can often be found for $20 or less at the "big box stores." Buy one, cut a hole in the top for your net pot, carefully feed the roots through the hole, and you go from a five- gallon reservoir to a 20- to 25-gallon one. Afterwards, you'll probably wonder why you bothered with a bucket. Add an aquarium power head ($20 or so at the pet store or your local ChinaMart) to aid in oxygenation. By all means, keep your air pump and 'stones. While it is technically possible to have too much dissolved oxygen, in practice, it is unlikely that you will attain that state.

If your plant starts looking almost like a soil-grown plant that's being overwatered... that's a sign of insufficient DO in your nutrient solution. As is a plant that dies not appear to be making efficient use of its nutrients. If, OTOH, is growing like something out of Jack and the Beanstalk and does not appear to notice high temperatures, well, you've probably got nearly enough .

Assuming no microbial life (which might cause your pH to tank), and stable hydroponic nutrients... And when using actual made for the purpose pH adjusters instead of things like vinegar and baking soda (or swimming pool chemicals), your pH should never change drastically - only gradually, as the plant consumes certain elements in the nutrient solution at a greater rate than it does others, and as it uses water. When that is the case, as you gain experience, you'll probably start to get a feel for what the plant has consumed, and will be able to (more or less) add the component that has those things instead of having to reach for a pH adjuster, other than the initial adjustment after you mix up the batch of nutrient solution.

Random comment: One reason why some people don't really like "Ca/Mg" combination products is that there is a relationship, and a proper ratio between the two. Therefore... Consider the situation of having the correct amount of one, but not enough of the other. If you then use such a product, you might end up with enough of the one that was previously lacking - but too much of the other. Actually, there are relationships between other elements, too; they might be synergistic (adding more of one causes the plant to, in effect, not need as much of the other), or antagonistic (adding too much of one causes the plant to have difficulty using the other). A new grower - or even an experienced one - who doesn't understand this might end up in a vicious cycle, adding something that he thought was lacking (when it was actually an overabundance of something else), which causes an issue with a different element, then trying to deal with that, which causes another issue, et cetera. I think folks have mentioned the "falling/static/rising" pH, EC, and water usage chart. Another one that's important to have is called "Mulder's Chart," and if it was mentioned in this thread, I must have missed it. There are two versions, one showing the macronutrients and one that includes more. You can probably find them via a forum search. If not, a general web search will point you towards them. Every gardener should download and print them out. But especially a cannabis gardener, and ESPECIALLY a hydroponic cannabis gardener.

 

[Nomoyo]

plant looks like its about to die

 

[Nomoyo]

im using the same exact thing as you are

 

[Nomoyo]

I have blue lab guardian.

 

[Nomoyo]

I need to send this bluelab back because its not very good for me and its not working i guess

 

[Nomoyo]

Im going to restart the plant because all that stuff i wont read all that and you very well know it. Thanks bye

 

[Nomoyo]

you guys messed up my plant

 

[Nomoyo]

im never deviating again. im upset but in time ill get over it. I know its my fault and im blaming

 

[TorturedSoul]

Im going to restart the plant because all that stuff i wont read all that and you very well know it. Thanks bye

That's cool. I'm sure you'll get all the help that you deserve, from here on out. And cannabis dealers need to make a living, too. . . .

 

[Delps8]

im never deviating again. im upset but in time ill get over it. I know its my fault and im blaming

I'm sorry to see that things didn't turn out.

When you're growing in hydro, everything is on the grower. If you try to figure out what went wrong, whatever it was, it wasn't a little thing and it happened some time after the second set of pictures that you posted.

At first it was lack of nutrients but, IIRC, you got that squared away because things were looking really good in the set of pictures after that. Something else happened and, from what you've said, the plant has died.

What did you do or what did you not do that might have caused things to change so quickly? Once you figure that out, you'll be in better shape when you start your next grow.

Good luck.

 

[Hellbent]

Just thought I'd interject.

The clay pellets may be what's causing the Ph to rise so rapidly--if they're new and un-used (or even almost un-used). It's very hard to get the alkaline out of the clay pellets.

The clay pellets have nothing to do with the ph level as they are not in the solution.