Learning

MochaBud said:
Sorry to hear that :hmmmm: I use a spray bottle and wet the shell good, and let it set for 20 to 30 seconds spray it again, then I use 2 toothpicks to gently pry the 2 halves open a little at a time, spray again if necessary...on another note, next time try putting the seedling, after germination into at least a 3 quarter inch deep hole in a solo cup of dirt, this takes a little longer for them to sprout, but it gives them time to take that shell off for themselves :passitleft:
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Thank you it worked perfectly
 
ted4152 said:
Sorry I planted it about 1/8 in soil now I have a watermelon auto coming up I got the stuck shell off yesterday and I have a full spectrum light on her about 10 in of the plant the northern lights auto I had growing the tail root looks like it just never grew now it has no tail root of it their are 2 leave but no root going down.could the fox farm be burning the tail root off
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Just a rundown of what I do...I get my beans, I'll take 2 and drop them in a cup of water...I leave them there for 24 hours...by then, I usually have a tap root starting, so I put them into a wet paper towel until the tap root is about a half inch long, then I use my pinky to make a hole up to the first knuckle, then into a solo cup of FFOF soil, and you don't want to soak the soil, just moisten it until she's about a week old, then water her like the others with small amounts of nutrients :goodluck:
ted4152 said:
Starting to think I should have got a quarter with the 80 instead of spending it at the seed store
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Oh No :thedoubletake::thedoubletake: don't start thinking that, I can grow mine for 2.5 cents a gram, sometimes less depending on yield, in layman's terms that's 70 bucks an ounce :thumb: trust me stick around and the peeps here will have you doing this in no time...
Dos si dos (front & back right) Wedding Cake (back left) by Blackskull Seeds 3/02/2021

Dos si dos (front & back right) Wedding Cake (back left) by Blackskull Seeds 3/02/2021

Yep, it got out of control back there...lol

004.jpg

004.jpg


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006.jpg

DB again

Gorilla Zkittles @ 4 wks

Gorilla Zkittles @ 4 wks

Lights out

Veg tent, a little crowded

Veg tent, a little crowded


Big girls are out of the veg closet tonight 1/13/2021

Big girls are out of the veg closet tonight 1/13/2021


Harvesting the Dos si dos by Blackskull seeds...

Harvesting the Dos si dos by Blackskull seeds...

 
ted4152 said:
Their are so many great growers here some of the pictures of plants are amazing I can't wait to hopefully be able to have plants like that .I will get it right sooner then later I hope. I better or my wife is going to make me sleep in this tent
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Mate, once you're sitting pretty on a dozen jars of top shelf smoke your wife will be much more forgiving lol
 
ted4152 said:
Starting to think I should have got a quarter with the 80 instead of spending it at the seed store
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Stick to it and you will be growing monsters in no time. Wife loves it when I bring her "flowers".
20240505_130145.jpg
 
ted4152 said:
Hello my name Ted I trying to grow I'm retired and want to grow my own smoke great to be here thanks for having me
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Hey ted :ciao:Welcome to 420Magazine.:welcome:
How is your garden doing?


Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Hey ted, welcome to the club! :welcome:

You definately choosed the right forums!
A lot of nice and helpful people around!

Have fun and good luck with your grow!:ganjamon:
 
ted4152 said:
Their are so many great growers here some of the pictures of plants are amazing I can't wait to hopefully be able to have plants like that .I will get it right sooner then later I hope. I better or my wife is going to make me sleep in this tent
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Welcome to the 420 Magazine family @ted4152. You’ll soon be growing more weed than you n wife can smoke in a year. And it’s gonna be better than anything you could buy. Unless it’s from another grower. CL🍀
 
Thank you everyone for welcoming me and helping me with my grow I have to stop checking on the plants every 30 seconds I have to be patient but it's hard because I want everything to go right I already learned from this forum that I will do things a little different next time I think I will make my own soil next time I don't like the fox farm thank you again .and sorry I'm just learning how to write on a laptop I was a brick layer for 33 years and my hands show it.
 
ted4152 said:
Thank you everyone for welcoming me and helping me with my grow I have to stop checking on the plants every 30 seconds I have to be patient but it's hard because I want everything to go right I already learned from this forum that I will do things a little different next time I think I will make my own soil next time I don't like the fox farm thank you again .and sorry I'm just learning how to write on a laptop I was a brick layer for 33 years and my hands show it.
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That’s a tough gig, I was a block/brick masons tender back n the day. That about killed me @ first but I sure got buff by summers end. lol 😂 CL🍀
 
I do something similar to what @BeccaBuds does. I used to use the paper towel method and it worked fine but I currently use a vertical germinator and have had 100% success sprouting seeds.

Look into some different media brands to find what works for you. I've never had an issue with Fox Farms Ocean Forest when I've used it but I prefer using a brand called Roots Organic Original. I can use it from seedling to harvest.
Trying to make your own soil is a good thing but I would stick to the prepared soils for the first few grows so that you understand the needs of the plant and how you want to build your soil. I'm a lazy gardener so I just keep reusing the soil I grow in mixing in a new bag every so often to recharge the soil.

Please read the following information below. I am not the author. It will help you to understand what is going on in the rootzone along with showing you the proper way to water your plant. Over and under watering are the 2 biggest issues new growers run into.

Good Luck!!

This will be a long read based on my personal knowledge, opinions, research and others work to consolidate information for our members. I'm not presenting my opinions as facts so take from this what you like. I will be putting it in subsection format for easy reference.

First, I want to make an important point to take into consideration before reading. The tap root will grow directly downwards to the bottom of the container before spreading out.

PERCHED WATER TABLE

What is it?

The perched water table is basically the height of the saturation zone where capillary action and gravity cancel each other out. This area will be saturated with water and will be responsible most growers' issues with watering practices especially in soil grows.

WHAT IS CAPILLARY ACTION

CAPILLARY action is the combination of the cohesive and adhesive properties of water.

In short adhesion is water clinging to the media (think of it like wicking or soaking up)

Cohesion is where the water clings to itself.

So as the water is wicked up (adhesion) it pulls more water with it through Cohesion and at the point gravity and these properties cancel each other out is the perched water table.

This perched water table will always remain the SAME HEIGHT and will always stay saturated unless taken up by the plants or evaporates when the pot dries out. No matter the container height, depth or volume of media. So, if a tall skinny container had a perched water table of 1" then a short wide one of the same media will also have a perched water table of 1". Which means the ratio of water to air in a wide pot will be higher than a tall skinny pot which will have a higher air to water ratio... keep this in mind as we get further.

Different media's have different perched water tables. A more absorbent media will have a higher perched water table than a less absorbent media... REMEMBER THIS as it makes a big difference on pot selection for your media.

DIFFERENT MEDIA

Water holding capacity is directly related to the height of the perched water table so soils with more clay or silt and less sand will have a higher perched water table than those with more sand because sand is a larger particle.

The larger the overall particles of the media the lower the perched water table and better the drainage.

By adding things like perlite or vermiculite (while vermiculite is good at absorbing water it also improves drainage so it's helpful in keeping a more even level of moisture throughout the media while increasing drainage due to its size) we can lower the perched water table by reducing the wicking (adhesion) ability and creating more space between particles overall reducing the cohesion effect and, in turn, the height of the perched water table.

Media like peat based or coco have a much higher drainage and lower perched water table than soil and are therefore less susceptible to over watering but will require more frequent watering due to the lower water holding capacity.

Adding things like perlite or hydroton to the bottom of the pots will NOT reduce the water table but instead raise it. This is because as I said the height of the water table will not change for a given media. So, if you add things like that to the bottom you are essentially just moving the water table up.

Basically, the larger the particles IN the media the better drainage and lower the water table.

If you want to see the height of your perched water table, use a clear cup with drain holes. Fill with media and saturate it. Wait a few hrs for drainage and then come back and look. You can see the difference in the varying media's if you want to experiment.

If you feel you have over watered or your perched water table height is too high, you can simply tilt your pot on a 45 degree angle and release more water from the media as runoff. To help visualize think of it this way if you have a perched water table of 2”. You can draw an imaginary horizontal line at that height, when you tilt the pot, you have less media below that line and therefore you will have less water in the pot after tilting it.

POT SIZE

I have already covered this a bit, but my opinion is if you are using a media with a higher water table you will benefit from taller narrower pots and if using a media with a lower perched water table the shorter wider ones may benefit you depending on your watering practices.

I prefer the taller over wider no matter the media as I choose to water often and have a higher air holding capacity and lower water table but that can work against you if you can't water as frequently and as plants grow it can greatly increase the frequency required as the roots will be pulling the water out of that saturation zone quickly. So, you may want to use taller pots for small plants and transplant into a wider one as they grow.

You also don't want a pot that's too tall and the top portion of the media is drying out too fast while the bottom is wet.

Let's use seedlings as an example take a solo cup or a large container... the water table will be the same height in either. I see so often ppl trying to water a tiny bit in circles or mist the surface and for lack of other words IT DRIVES ME NUTS! Why? Because the roots are so shallow they are not at risk of being over watered. Remember though tap roots grow straight down so we want to be mindful as they grow depending on the gas exchange of the media that the majority of roots are not sitting in the saturated zone with poor gas exchange because this will cause lack of oxygen that we incorrectly refer to as overwatering which is actually the cause not the symptom.

It's important to fill containers to the top to give us a good amount of space above the perched water table that is high in o2. If you fill a solo cup halfway with soil it's likely to be sitting in the saturation zone and will not do well.


Also going to make the point that plants will be most susceptible to overwatering when the roots first hit the bottom and spread out until they fill the bottom and start moving back up out of the saturation zone. So again, it may be more beneficial to use a taller narrow pot for the early stages of growth (2-4 weeks depending on growth) and transplant into a wider pot as you go. After the transplant almost all of the roots will be above the saturation zone and it becomes much harder to over water. New roots will again work their way down into the saturation zone but you will have plenty above so it's less likely to over water and why uppotting as you go I see as a benefit instead of starting in a large wide container.

POT MATERIAL

Some prefer plastic others fabric, air pots etc.

This can affect the perched water table by evaporation as the larger the exposed surface area the more evaporation that occurs from the media in, say, fabric pots. This, imo, has a few benefits.... slightly reducing the perched water table but more so the exposure for gas exchange that's happening and that's a good thing for o2 levels in the root zone that I feel are directly related to growth rates and I'll explain why going a bit off topic for a second.

It's no coincidence that the fastest growing media's have the highest amounts of o2 and gas exchange.... for eg aeroponics have unlimited to rich o2 and water. Hydro similar with slightly less o2, soiless media's such as coco and I would possibly include peat and last soil. If you notice they are in order of growth rates and it's not hard to see the difference in their air holding capacity in that order. And the fact that larger particles also have a better gas exchange rate. This is important because the plants take in oxygen and expel co2 in the rootzone as do the microbes on top of that so good gas exchange is important for both.

Just a note... air pruning has nothing to do with the benefits of fabric pots all it does is signal the roots to grow in a different direction.

But let's get back on topic of watering and how it's affected.

TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY

The warmer the temps the more evaporation occurs.

The lower your humidity the more evaporation occurs

The more surface area exposed to air movement (wind) the more evaporation.

Think those don't need an explanation. But the difference in pot material coupled with these environmental factors will have an impact on your watering needs.

The temperature of the media not only affects evaporation but also directly affect the temperature of the plant and leaf temps. This has a large impact on nutrient uptake and transportation.

First let me say that this next part is opinion, and I will give my reasoning for my opinions. With the exception of hydro (leaving this part out as this post is about watering not hydro) roots like to be about the same temperature as the leaves contrary to what's talked about from many prominent growers in the industry but not all like Dr. Bruce Bugbee. IMO ideal root temps are the same as ideal leaf temps and overall plant temps especially since the root temps have a large impact on the plant and leaf temps. What are ideal temps imo and many studies show that leaf temps (NOT AIR TEMPS) of around 77f are most efficient. So how does a cool rootzone impact the plants negatively? Well it's 2 fold because of the cool temps the viscosity (measument of flow rate) of the sap will decrease so its harder for the plant to move the nutrients through the plant. The other is absorption and one fact is that in a cooler rootzone the concentration of nutrients is higher (but aqua you just said it slows absorption) well it does as the nutrients build up in the roots it can absorb less and this has a direct impact negatively on the plant. It may appear to be overwatered because the plant is now struggling to take up and use oxygen. Add that to the slowed transpiration rates and you have the same symptom many refer to as overwatering which, again, is lack of o2. Now, take a cold rootzone where the plants are slow to water uptake and then add the saturation zone to it and you can see the road to correction and recovery is a long one and can have huge impact on growth and yields.

So get your pots up off the floor 😁

WET AND DRY CYCLES

in soil and peat with higher water tables or with wider pots or combination of, wet and dry cycles are important. This is to allow the dry back (including the uptake of water from the saturation zone) to prevent symptoms of over watering and help with o2 levels. Remember the majority of roots will end up in the saturation zone with these media or with wider pots. Which can become depleted of o2 quickly as gas exchange is lower in water and media made up of smaller particles. This is where pot size and shape are important for the size of plant. You have a small plant in large container and there is no way it can take up enough of the water in the saturation zone fast enough to get air exposure in a media that has low gas exchange and majority of the roots. So it's important to choose a pot size that will allow for this. It's also why using the finger method to gauge watering is poor and lifting the pots is much better... when they are light you know they have taken up a good portion of the saturation zone and are ready to be watered again.

This is much less of an issue when using soilless like coco or peat/perlite.
 
Looking good! Be aware that auto seeds have a finite time limit attached to their genetics so you have a limited time window to grow your plant before it goes into flower. The bigger the plant the more flower.

I always advise newbs to start by growing femenized photo period seeds so that they get to experience the basics needed to grow these plants to harvest and can fix whatever issues that tend to crop up with beginners. Autos crunch that time line significantly so it's harder to fix whatever issue may crop up reducing your final dry yield.

Don't worry if you aren't successful the first time. I've killed more than my share of plants. Just try and learn the basics and take it slow. Learn all you can and you'll be a pro in no time much like a lot of the guys on the site. They teach me things I didn't know and I've been growing for 25+ years.
 
ted4152 said:
reading a lot about low stress training I think that my next step
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I agree with trump, and would not recommend LST on any auto flower unless you have a lot of experience with it. You need to know what the strain will naturally do before trying to manipulate it. I have made the mistake of trying to force a plant to be bushy, just to discover it was naturally bushy. Ended up with a 6 foot wide plant. Would have gone farther but my room was only 6 foot wide.
 
Sativa1970 said:
I agree with trump, and would not recommend LST on any auto flower unless you have a lot of experience with it. You need to know what the strain will naturally do before trying to manipulate it. I have made the mistake of trying to force a plant to be bushy, just to discover it was naturally bushy. Ended up with a 6 foot wide plant. Would have gone farther but my room was only 6 foot wide.
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Day Jah Vu........ 😆
 
I really still don't know how to use this site I'm not good with computers here is a picture of my watermelon auto that is 12 days old today . I've seen your guys with plants that look much bigger then this one it seems to be doing well.
 

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