so I’m new to growing and growing in hydro. I had couple questions. I’m using Athena blended nutrients in rdwc 4 7gallon buckets. During veg my ppm are at 270. Now when I switch to bloom nutrients I would start at same ppm as I was usning in veg? 270ppm of bloom nutrients? How far into bloom should I switch to bloom nutrients? As soon as I switch light cycle to 12/12 or week or two after that? If any ones down to talk about hydro in rdwc shoot me a pm lol a lot of questions thanks for looking.
New to hydro couple questions?
- Thread starter Olie
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Smokey0418
Well-Known Member
I don’t use that particular line of nutes , but I would think there all about the same.
So yes going into flower when I change my nutes I would use the same number.
What I am looking for is stability, ph ec stay the same and the tank goes down.
I use ro water so I start with calmag to 160 ppm (.32ec) then a@b to 450-500 ( .9-1ec) with plants your size.
Then I would go up to 1.2 ec in flower without burning things.
Using no co2 .
Would run veg nutes till turn , then I would dump 1/2 and top up bloom for 10 -14 days .
Then would dump all I could using full bloom from here on out
So yes going into flower when I change my nutes I would use the same number.
What I am looking for is stability, ph ec stay the same and the tank goes down.
I use ro water so I start with calmag to 160 ppm (.32ec) then a@b to 450-500 ( .9-1ec) with plants your size.
Then I would go up to 1.2 ec in flower without burning things.
Using no co2 .
Would run veg nutes till turn , then I would dump 1/2 and top up bloom for 10 -14 days .
Then would dump all I could using full bloom from here on out
Heyso I’m new to growing and growing in hydro. I had couple questions. I’m using Athena blended nutrients in rdwc 4 7gallon buckets. During veg my ppm are at 270. Now when I switch to bloom nutrients I would start at same ppm as I was usning in veg? 270ppm of bloom nutrients? How far into bloom should I switch to bloom nutrients? As soon as I switch light cycle to 12/12 or week or two after that? If any ones down to talk about hydro in rdwc shoot me a pm lol a lot of questions thanks for looking.
Beautiful garden my friend.
Ppms seem low to me
As soon as you see pistils forming switch to your bloom formulation.
Nice work.
Stay safe
Bill284
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- #4
Hi and thanks for replaying lol. Yea I thought the same things about low ppm but as soon as I up my nutrients to let’s say 300 ppm tips of the leafs start pointing down and some of the new growth starts to just burn the tips. Ph is stable at 6.0 and I’m using a doser from one of my old reef tanks. Dosing concentrated nutrients at x2 per gallon full strength if that makes any sense lol. 870ml per day. Dosing every hour Idk if that the right way to do it but it works for me lol.
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I also use to water and I’m a .5 ec but if I try and go higher tips of plant burn and point down. I’m not using co2 either with Athena nutrients I’m running their solution at 20-30 percent now.
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Hello Olie and welcome to 420Magazine.com, nice tent set up. When you wish to switch to flower photoperiod cannabis plants we change the nutrients to different ratios of the same nutrients and the light schedule to 12 hours of light abd 12 hours of darkness. An autodoser is not how nutrients are managed. We aim for pH 5.8 in hydroponics and when we prepare the nutrient solution similar to keeping reef tanks to maintain an optimal environment as we monitor the decrease of PPM and then change out the nutrient solution on a schedule. The use of an pH adjusted fresh water reservoir add back top up system to replenish and maintain a stable pH over longer periods. The autodoser may be useful in maintaining pH stability of the RDWC if you are able to calibrate the rate of pH adjustment for the reservoir.
Specificaly which Athena blended nutrients are using in what strength per gallon to acheive the 270-300PPM nutrient strength.
The screen or SCROG net that is used to spread the tops of the cannabis plant across the surface area and maximize usable light so tuck the top of the cannabis plant through the screen. This maximizes the amount of light available to the top of the branches and each becomes its own cola.
I would fill the scrog net before any defoliation.
Specificaly which Athena blended nutrients are using in what strength per gallon to acheive the 270-300PPM nutrient strength.
The screen or SCROG net that is used to spread the tops of the cannabis plant across the surface area and maximize usable light so tuck the top of the cannabis plant through the screen. This maximizes the amount of light available to the top of the branches and each becomes its own cola.
I would fill the scrog net before any defoliation.
What is the N value?
You shouldn't get that curl.
After I switch to flower she stretches.
Takes a couple weeks.
Then I remove everything below the light line.
Don't remove fan leaves now, or anything for that matter.
How your doing well talk soon.
Stay safe
Bill284
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- #9
So I thought it was burning but I was wrong. Looks like the tips turn yellow after I up the feed. Then couple hours or next day it’s gone. I think I was under feeding my plants.is it normal for the tips to turn yellow color after feeding?
thanks for info upped nutrients and they look happy. Ppm at 500 now
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Sueet
Well-Known Member
You've done a nice job spreading them out to fill the nets, if you focus on grabbing the ones that probably won't have enough space or light (down low or pushed out to the sides) then you should be golden. If you take from the bits that are already where you want them, you'll need to wait for them to grow back in.
Beautiful plants, gl with your clones <3
Beautiful plants, gl with your clones <3
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- #16
Thanks yea I been trying to fill up the net but I know for sure some will never make it to the light so I was gonna cut those off for clones for next run. I was only gonna take clones from the one that grew the fastest which is back left one. It’s almost took up whole half of the grow tent and their all same age and same strain. Other two are growing slower than that back left.
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Thanks bill284 for help yea I wanted to get cutting for clones. I just picked up a ezcloner that I was gonna try out. First time clone so we will see how it goes.Do you mean cuttings for closes.
Absolutely go ahead, nows the time.
Stay safe
Bill284
G.G. Clone Topped Before 10 Days Old
Gorilla glue clone topped before she was 10 days old. I finally found a foolproof way to grow a ton of great clones fast fast. Can’t miss. I just love it so much just wanted to throw it out there. Havin a great day.
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There's some cloning tips in there.
Let me know if I can help.
Stay safe
Bill284
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- #19
Sueet
Well-Known Member
Imo, Yes, you should be worried, and vigilant. Those conditions can create havoc very quickly if the wrong spore lands in the right place. Bear in mind flower means less time with the light on which means cool damp and dark, perfect mold conditions.
Your plants are very healthy and the stronger the better but flowering brings new demands and stresses so things can get out of hand - tbh with all that lush foliage, I might be tempted to pre-treat with @InTheShed 's citric acid treatment if you can get (or have) the stuff.
This is a link to the post with the info:
Your plants are very healthy and the stronger the better but flowering brings new demands and stresses so things can get out of hand - tbh with all that lush foliage, I might be tempted to pre-treat with @InTheShed 's citric acid treatment if you can get (or have) the stuff.
This is a link to the post with the info:
Thrips
You are introducing a fungus to cure a mildew problem?? What is the name of this fungus? Or, did you mean that you are getting a 'fungicide' which is a totally different thing. Its a bio fungicide called aq 10
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