GeorgeFoster
New Member
You are correct sir, they advise the soil maintained 6.3 to 6.8
I would guess they mean run off.
ph water or not?
- Thread starter dr greentum
- Start date
You are correct sir, they advise the soil maintained 6.3 to 6.8
I would guess they mean run off.tokersmokeg
New Member
soil cannot have a ph?okay im almost done As your first step try compost. It can have a marked influence on acid soils. For example an EPA study showed that water with a pH of about 2 discharged from a mine had risen to a pH of 5 by the time it passed through a compost filter.
Go slowly. It is possible to use quick acting agents to radically change your soil pH. However, you risk wiping out your soil organisms and they are critical companions to your plants. Kill them and you effectively kill your soil.
Aim for raising your pH a maximum of 1 pH point per season. Lime is normally added to raise pH. You can use Calcitic or Dolomite Lime. Calcitic Lime adds only calcium to your soil while Dolomite lime adds calcium and magnesium. These will slowly change the pH. As well it will make phosphorus more available and increase the bacterial activity with the side effect of freeing nitrogen for your crop.
The amount you add depends on your soil texture. In sandy soils use less lime and apply it more often. Follow the directions on the lime you purchase but please go slow - give soil life a chance.
this is on an organic compost journal.they make ph testers just for soil!!SAND IN YOUR VAG ha ha lol
Go slowly. It is possible to use quick acting agents to radically change your soil pH. However, you risk wiping out your soil organisms and they are critical companions to your plants. Kill them and you effectively kill your soil.
Aim for raising your pH a maximum of 1 pH point per season. Lime is normally added to raise pH. You can use Calcitic or Dolomite Lime. Calcitic Lime adds only calcium to your soil while Dolomite lime adds calcium and magnesium. These will slowly change the pH. As well it will make phosphorus more available and increase the bacterial activity with the side effect of freeing nitrogen for your crop.
The amount you add depends on your soil texture. In sandy soils use less lime and apply it more often. Follow the directions on the lime you purchase but please go slow - give soil life a chance.
this is on an organic compost journal.they make ph testers just for soil!!SAND IN YOUR VAG ha ha lol
Outragedpluto
New Member
I want everyone here to read the book True Living Organics. The Rev is a master and I feel he covered this topic very well. I used to use ph up and ph down, but then I stopped. I also use to use tap water for my grow. I also stopped that. I use distilled water and spring water for my grows now. The distilled is an even 7.0 ph and the spring is about 8.0 ph. I had a magnesium problem earlier this grow and it was because my soil ph had dropped a bit. All I had to do was add some more spring water and my problem fixed right up.
Just pointing out there are other methods of adjusting you ph with out having to use hydro ph up and ph down. Hope this all helps.
Just pointing out there are other methods of adjusting you ph with out having to use hydro ph up and ph down. Hope this all helps.
canabinerd
New Member
Hey whatever, if you don't want to learn real science that's fine, and as long as the way you grow works for you, I'm happy for you. I just feel responsible for other growers that may be reading your journal and are getting bad information that may cause them to have problems in their grows. And I'm not saying that growing your way doesn't work, their are a ton of people on this site that just grow by experiential knowledge and have found a recipe that produces premium herb for them. However, if somebody gets on their soapbox around here and says "HYDROSALTS IZ BAD, THEY KILL YOUR SOIL" I'm gonna call them out on it every time. Because once again, unless someone has any real knowledge to the contrary (and please speak up if you do), that statement is complete ignorant B.S., period.
tokersmokeg
New Member
growing plants in dirt isnt chemistry!!stay in school youngin i use well water with a low ph of 5 after adding nutrients it can go even lower.The soil buffers this!i am maintaining 30 plants and three different strains.not one pot has a problem ever!!!if your soil is up to snuff you dont have to worry how many more articles should i bring to you attention? in the article i posted it states that water with a ph of 2!run through a COMPOST filter came out to 5 Quit trying to apply chemistry to growing bud.mother nature does not need ph up ph down to grow great medicine
tokersmokeg
New Member
you are on your soapbox with one year experience with a couple of plants!!i can show you years of pics of my grows!!i havent tried to reinvent the wheel you are.another user showed you buds from soil to the top cola perfect!!using no ph up or down..just admit you were wrong and you might save some face!!
tokersmokeg
New Member
what happend to soil doesnt have a ph? im done lol!!college boy knows everything!!
canabinerd
New Member
Hey, I'm glad your mix is so pH tolerant. And you surely don't need to be a chemist to grow dank. I would just advise any new growers who may be reading to check and adjust the pH of any water they give their plant unless they are using a soil mix that is proven to be tolerant of the conditions that they have. By the way, I don't see a link to your grows in your subject line, I'd love to see your operation Toker.
canabinerd
New Member
pH is really only applicable to aqueous solutions, if you don't believe me, look it up. And yes they do have soil pH meters, but they are measuring the pH of the water/nutrient solution that is in your soil. Really the only difference between using one of those and checking runoff is that the meter will give you a real time reading as long as your soil is wet enough for a current to run between the electrodes.
tokersmokeg
New Member
havent updated my current grow log but here are some pics
i did enjoy your grow journal and mean no offense i get off on rants.i havent continued with the journal because my camera is kaputs!! im running 2 600w hps with a big 5 foot reveg plant and 30 small clones under the other 600w.at 8 o cloc i move all the plants into a dark room and another set come under the light for 12 hours.i give all the plants one to two weeks veg time.i have produced 1 half ounce from each plant in about 2 gallons of soil so a lb per light!! this time im shooting for 3/4 ounce per plant.
the first set of clones are in bigger containers. and can only fit around 16.i have some taller pots that arent as wide on the other 12 hours and can fit about 30 maxxed!!
i did enjoy your grow journal and mean no offense i get off on rants.i havent continued with the journal because my camera is kaputs!! im running 2 600w hps with a big 5 foot reveg plant and 30 small clones under the other 600w.at 8 o cloc i move all the plants into a dark room and another set come under the light for 12 hours.i give all the plants one to two weeks veg time.i have produced 1 half ounce from each plant in about 2 gallons of soil so a lb per light!! this time im shooting for 3/4 ounce per plant.
the first set of clones are in bigger containers. and can only fit around 16.i have some taller pots that arent as wide on the other 12 hours and can fit about 30 maxxed!!
tokersmokeg
New Member
this is the big revegged momma to all these clones now flowering!! i cut alot of big clones off her and shes still huge!
the small clone in the first pics on the 22nd is now this clone only 2 weeks later!!!! i borrowed a camera gonna have to remember to delete them on the memory card!!!
canabinerd
New Member
that reveg is looking nice 
. Welcome to 
. Welcome to
canabinerd
New Member
So this is what I received back from Fox Farms:
Hello XXXXX, Thank you for contacting FoxFarm with your inquiry, I’d be glad to help. We suggest that you adjust your final nutrient solution to be between 6.3 and 6.8 for soil. Adjusting your tap water to this same range for your plain water feedings is also beneficial. It is also recommended that you allow your tap water to stand for at least 12 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate if you do not have a filter. I hope this helps.
Thank you for growing with FoxFarm, have a great day.
XXXXXX
Technical Specialist
FoxFarm Soil and Fertilizer Company
(707)-443-4369
Hello XXXXX, Thank you for contacting FoxFarm with your inquiry, I’d be glad to help. We suggest that you adjust your final nutrient solution to be between 6.3 and 6.8 for soil. Adjusting your tap water to this same range for your plain water feedings is also beneficial. It is also recommended that you allow your tap water to stand for at least 12 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate if you do not have a filter. I hope this helps.
Thank you for growing with FoxFarm, have a great day.
XXXXXX
Technical Specialist
FoxFarm Soil and Fertilizer Company
(707)-443-4369
tokersmokeg
New Member
they dindnt say what kind of ph up down to use they do have organic ph up down.like i said different strokes for different folks.its hard to know who is right without some sort of scientific test log either way lets consider this thread dead.
canabinerd
New Member
I know, I already sent them a follow up question on whether they were aware of any problem with using commercially available hydroponic pH up and down solutions and will post that answer when they respond.
canabinerd
New Member
Ok, here's their response,
Hello XXXXXX, Thank you for getting back to us, We’re here to help. Our nutrients are compatible with all pH buffering agents. One suggestion I like to give and incorporate myself, is to use molasses for plants (high brix) as pH down, and Silica as a pH up. This way, you receive benefits from the addition of pH buffering agents rather than just more salts. I hope this helps.
Thank you for growing with FoxFarm, have a great day.
XXXXXX
Technical Specialist
FoxFarm Soil and Fertilizer Company
(707)-443-4369
Hello XXXXXX, Thank you for getting back to us, We’re here to help. Our nutrients are compatible with all pH buffering agents. One suggestion I like to give and incorporate myself, is to use molasses for plants (high brix) as pH down, and Silica as a pH up. This way, you receive benefits from the addition of pH buffering agents rather than just more salts. I hope this helps.
Thank you for growing with FoxFarm, have a great day.
XXXXXX
Technical Specialist
FoxFarm Soil and Fertilizer Company
(707)-443-4369
tokersmokeg
New Member
great info seems to be varying info everywhere!!
canabinerd
New Member
I recently just got some molasses and used it for the first time to flush my widow down because a lot of people swear by it. I didn't really pay attention to what it did to my pH. Next time I water, I'll be paying attention.
canabinerd
New Member
Okay, I think I have a complete answer for you greentum you can check the thread here Hydrosalts and Organic Soil - Bad Practice or Perpetuated Rumor?
