Plant Alchemy With KNF: Korean Natural Farming And Jadam

@GreenFingaz posted This video over in Buds' thread. My original two buckets are built similarly but my last three are my other type.

I'm happy to walk you though the build if you have any questions, but I do think it is the better version. The video one will work fine as well, especially late in flower when the watering needs pick up. It just that the other version gets the better growth going faster.

Or, you can skip the entire DIY thing and buy the commercial version Buds is using in his post Here.
@scottreid1966 , I don't know your budget, but $13 each for the commercial deals is really a steal.
And it should save hours and hours of work.
But it is your decision completely.
Only you know your situation.
 
@scottreid1966 , I don't know your budget, but $13 each for the commercial deals is really a steal.
And it should save hours and hours of work.
But it is your decision completely.
Only you know your situation.
Well, let's not overstate it. Not "hours and hours of work."

I built 3 yesterday in about a half hour and most of that time was spent making my drainage/air holes. Of course there was another hour or so spent going to the store for supplies but the build time on these is pretty short.

But the commercial version is definitely a viable option.
 
Well, let's not overstate it. Not "hours and hours of work."

I built 3 yesterday in about a half hour and most of that time was spent making my drainage/air holes. Of course there was another hour or so spent going to the store for supplies but the build time on these is pretty short.

But the commercial version is definitely a viable option.
Well, we don't want to overstate anything----so perhaps I should try to be more specific?

After gathering supplies and tools, I probably spent an hour on the prototype, and still not really happy with it. I could have spent a lot more time drilling holes.
1662924791979.png


I added an extra row of holes to the blue pot stand, but from my way of thinking the stand could really stand to have a LOT more holes!
I drilled an extra row around the crown rim, and was not happy about all the loose petrochemical-derivative fuzzies getting all in my organic grow-dirt.
I would drill many more holes (to maximize) ventilation, but I think it would take a lot of time. And make lots of little petrochemical-derivative fuzzies, and I don't have time in my schedule for that.
1662924863139.png


But still I don't think that holds a candle to the commercial ventilation.

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I could probably production line them if I was willing to sacrifice ventilation on the stand in exchange for a few $$, but my time schedule is slammed, and I think it would take a LONG time to match the commercial ventilation.
Unless it is not important??
But I thought you and RD were talking about the importance of maximum airflow?
What am I missing?
 
@scottreid1966 , if you want visuals, this is a copy from my thread, where Azi helped me.
This is what it looks like assembled.
There is a hole in the middle of the black pot, so the soil conects through.
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Then I put cardboard to cover (and want to find black weed cloth).

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If you are on a super-budget, I think you can save some money.
But if you can spring for $130, the Nile River can help you get your time back.
And I think the quality is all there.

Someone will surely have a better design, though----and when you bring it to market, I will be happy to buy 20 of them from you!
 
Hey @scottreid1966 ,

I understand. There's YouTube videos and web pages, I hope you can find one that works for you.

I found them on the Amazing River for $13 each for a 10 pack.

Yeah, I have the same problem. My buckets are clear!
I put cardboard around her, and then I can peek through the clear when I want.
I may look for some black weed cloth for a pot-wrap (which should hold up better long term).
I would be interested to hear what solutions you come up with.
Thanks, LG but those last 2 quotes didn't come from me. I have yet to start any proceedings until I got more info. Which @Azimuth and yourself gtatefully provided. Hopefully I can make or order one or two. May be able to incorporate it into the six-sided pots I already made with sheet-metal.
If not, I just started some clones for my phase lll of perpetual grow. It will give me a few weeks to buy or make.

:thanks:
 
Thanks, LG but those last 2 quotes didn't come from me. I have yet to start any proceedings until I got more info. Which @Azimuth and yourself gtatefully provided. Hopefully I can make or order one or two. May be able to incorporate it into the six-sided pots I already made with sheet-metal.
If not, I just started some clones for my phase lll of perpetual grow. It will give me a few weeks to buy or make.

:thanks:
Ok, great!
Yes, Azi is a ton of help!
I hope you get what you need!
Happy growing!
 
El, that looks good. And the more vent holes the better from my perspective although it looks like the commercial version doesn't have much of that, on the sides at least.

The one change I would make to your prototype would be to have the fill tube enter your blue container. But not all that critical as with all of your vent holes the air should get into it just fine.
 
Honestly, I'd move the SIP to the top of your project list. The results are that good. It's really only a watering approach. A really, really, good, watering approach. And it'll work with most soil mixes. Try it with at least one. Indoors or outdoors, and I'll bet you won't grow any other way after.

And the build I described in the post above is very simple.
I am surley looking into it, my friend. You have never steered me wrong before. I think I can design my own using 1/4 inch chicken wire with my 6-sided metal pots and tubing.

What I don't understand is how ALL the plant roots can be fed if it only drinks from the bottom. When I eventually up-pot them to a pot 3 inches higher, the roots will be that much further from the water. Was thinking gravel for 1 of them and perlite for the other.
You have told me that the roots will reach for the water, I am just afraid that they will starve on the way there.

Always appreciate your feed-back, Azi,

Cheers!
 
I am surley looking into it, my friend. You have never steered me wrong before. I think I can design my own using 1/4 inch chicken wire with my 6-sided metal pots and tubing.

What I don't understand is how ALL the plant roots can be fed if it only drinks from the bottom. When I eventually up-pot them to a pot 3 inches higher, the roots will be that much further from the water. Was thinking gravel for 1 of them and perlite for the other.
You have told me that the roots will reach for the water, I am just afraid that they will starve on the way there.

Always appreciate your feed-back, Azi,

Cheers!
Hey Scottr,

There seems to be two different ways to feed these things depending on whether or not your's is an organic grow. If yes, then topdressing and the occasional fertigation from the top seems to be the go to.

If not, and you are using bottled and chelated nutes, only feeding from the bottom is advised and no water or feed from the top. These pot structures appear to provide a moisture gradient to the plant, wetter at the bottom, less moist as you climb higher. If you also water from the top that can cause the entire soil ball to be too wet.

And don't worry about getting nutrients to each individual root. Plants are very good at moving stuff around to where they need it.
 
36 hours in and she's successfully completed the treading water portion of her training. She floated nicely on top of the water and is now showing some leg. I prefer that my seeds not sink to the bottom but stay floating where there is ample O2 and moisture combined.

Since she is showing some leg she is ready to start learning the flutter kick so I'll let her try it for a while before continuing her survival training later today when I bury her and see if she can dig herself out and bust out back up to the light.

Game on!

After two days I misted the planting area and I think I see the seed coat pushing through the soil but I'm concerned there might not be enough friction for it to shed that seed coat so I covered it with a little more fresh dirt and gave that a spritz. I'm expecting to see some green tomorrow, day 3. 🤞
 
After two days I misted the planting area and I think I see the seed coat pushing through the soil but I'm concerned there might not be enough friction for it to shed that seed coat so I covered it with a little more fresh dirt and gave that a spritz. I'm expecting to see some green tomorrow, day 3. 🤞
That was indeed what I saw. The seed leaves pushed above the soil overnight, no seed coat in sight. Now I'll water from the top for a few days to help get the roots established but I'll also put some water in the reservoir as a prize for the first roots to find it.

I noticed that the plant that is headed to flower, the one that this one will replace in the on-deck circle, has mites. I did notice them a month or so ago and gave my plants my IPM mix as a topdress and didn't see the problem expand, but I guess they 're still around. I'd really like to not have to spray so maybe I'll topdress twice a month and see if that helps. Maybe I just need to do it more frequently. I hate mites. And thrips. But that may be the price of admission to growing with worm castings since they seem to appear shortly after I topdress with fresh castings. They're too good to not use, so I guess I have to learn to deal with the fallout.
 
That was indeed what I saw. The seed leaves pushed above the soil overnight, no seed coat in sight. Now I'll water from the top for a few days to help get the roots established but I'll also put some water in the reservoir as a prize for the first roots to find it.

I noticed that the plant that is headed to flower, the one that this one will replace in the on-deck circle, has mites. I did notice them a month or so ago and gave my plants my IPM mix as a topdress and didn't see the problem expand, but I guess they 're still around. I'd really like to not have to spray so maybe I'll topdress twice a month and see if that helps. Maybe I just need to do it more frequently. I hate mites. And thrips. But that may be the price of admission to growing with worm castings since they seem to appear shortly after I topdress with fresh castings. They're too good to not use, so I guess I have to learn to deal with the fallout.
Siiiiii..................
Package deal.................
We'll take it!
 
Well, let's not overstate it. Not "hours and hours of work."

I built 3 yesterday in about a half hour and most of that time was spent making my drainage/air holes. Of course there was another hour or so spent going to the store for supplies but the build time on these is pretty short.

But the commercial version is definitely a viable option.
Are you spraying with the Microbial Solution ?
Hi Azi! Thanks for asking and the answer is not sure.
I can' t get potatoe flakeds w/out garlic and I don't have brown rice, as you sugeested as a starch substitute.

If you are talking about dandy-tea, then yes. I just fell in love with that stuff. Made 4 clones, just need 2.

BTW. I started my own SIP's. Made the first water retainers today and it fit like a glove with my pots. Not easy with a polygon pot. Will show the start-up next thread but should have a full thread from start to finish come Sunday. I asked you a few questions about that on your thread and will look at it after I post.

IMG_20220914_104749_resized_20220914_113232283.jpg

IMG_20220914_133228.jpg

IMG_20220914..jpg



The ring in the middle is 1 inch higher then the 3 inch water level. I will screw/brace some 1/4" chicken wire and top a little more diagonally to cut the wire-space in half.

I have the tubing for input and overflow. Gravel for 1, perlite for the other.

Cheers!
 
Hey Scottr,

There seems to be two different ways to feed these things depending on whether or not your's is an organic grow. If yes, then topdressing and the occasional fertigation from the top seems to be the go to.

If not, and you are using bottled and chelated nutes, only feeding from the bottom is advised and no water or feed from the top. These pot structures appear to provide a moisture gradient to the plant, wetter at the bottom, less moist as you climb higher. If you also water from the top that can cause the entire soil ball to be too wet.

And don't worry about getting nutrients to each individual root. Plants are very good at moving stuff around to where they need it.
Hi Azi!
I don't believe that I am fully ready for a pure organic grow. Just have banana, egg-shell and sea-weed water with the dandy-tea. I also have sea-weed to grind for my outdoor soil. Not enough, methinks.
I bought 10 litres of @Remo Nutrients but it got damaged during transport. grrrrr
It will be another week or two.

IMG_20220914_185936_resized_20220914_065954499.jpg


Cheers!
 
Hi Azi! Thanks for asking and the answer is not sure.
I can' t get potatoe flakeds w/out garlic and I don't have brown rice, as you sugeested as a starch substitute.

If you are talking about dandy-tea, then yes. I just fell in love with that stuff. Made 4 clones, just need 2.

BTW. I started my own SIP's. Made the first water retainers today and it fit like a glove with my pots. Not easy with a polygon pot. Will show the start-up next thread but should have a full thread from start to finish come Sunday. I asked you a few questions about that on your thread and will look at it after I post.

img_20220914_104749_resized_20220914_113232283-jpg.2581090

img_20220914_133228-jpg.2581093

img_20220914-jpg.2581095



The ring in the middle is 1 inch higher then the 3 inch water level. I will screw/brace some 1/4" chicken wire and top a little more diagonally to cut the wire-space in half.

I have the tubing for input and overflow. Gravel for 1, perlite for the other.

Cheers!


Looking good and creative design! :thumb:

and all the jars with natural ferts!

Kudos.
 
Hey Scottr,

There seems to be two different ways to feed these things depending on whether or not your's is an organic grow. If yes, then topdressing and the occasional fertigation from the top seems to be the go to.

If not, and you are using bottled and chelated nutes, only feeding from the bottom is advised and no water or feed from the top. These pot structures appear to provide a moisture gradient to the plant, wetter at the bottom, less moist as you climb higher. If you also water from the top that can cause the entire soil ball to be too wet.

And don't worry about getting nutrients to each individual root. Plants are very good at moving stuff around to where they need it.
Thanks Azi! My biggest concern is that once I up-pot from a 2 gallon to an approximate 4 gallon pot, there will be 2 inches of soil, half inch of gravel or perlite, chiken wire and 1 inch air gap between the roots and the water. In the you tube video that you sent me the link to with the duo 5 gallon SIP's, he said to top water them for a while. I would hate to starve my phase ll, only have two.
 
@scottreid1966 , I don't know your budget, but $13 each for the commercial deals is really a steal.
And it should save hours and hours of work.
But it is your decision completely.
Only you know your situation.
Thanks EG, fortunately, it is not a question of budget but the double 5 gallon buckets would be too highh for my veg room. I am trying out a home-made version and will be posting the results of my DIY on Saturday, before I up-pot the next day from a 2 gallon to a 4 gallon. Since you have experience with SIP's, I would really appreciate your feed-back.

Besides, A-zon only hade 10-pack. Just need for in all for my veg and flower spaces.

Cheers!
 
In the you tube video that you sent me the link to with the duo 5 gallon SIP's, he said to top water them for a while. I would hate to starve my phase ll, only have two.
Just long enough for the roots to find the reservoir. And I'd say that's probably more for seedlings without an established root ball. If the thing is working correctly the soil should be moist from bottom to at least close to the top and the roots should quickly adapt.
 
Just long enough for the roots to find the reservoir. And I'd say that's probably more for seedlings without an established root ball. If the thing is working correctly the soil should be moist from bottom to at least close to the top and the roots should quickly adapt.
Thanks again, Azi. I will drill a few holes up the side to help discern the moisture. Am really looking forward to the potting. I hope you will see my DIY pots on Saturday before I up-pot on Sunday. Your input is prescious to me.

Cheers!
 
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