budnoob2
New Member
Joe, you can judge based upon the weight of the pot or you can use a moisture meter - I typically go by weight unless it's a larger fabric pot that can't easily be lifted in which case I use the meter.
Please help 16 day old seedling is dying
- Thread starter Joeshmo
- Start date
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- #62
Yeah Ill be going by weight for right now until I can get my hands on a moisture meter, Also Eve is starting to show some yellowing on her leaves and one of her cotyledon leaves is about half yellow.
I am keeping my eyes on her and checking every few hours. They are both pretty dry but I am going to give them till tomorrow before watering them so any remaining moisture can go away, I do not want to risk overwatering which is what I think put Jolene in the state she is today.
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- #64
You know I just went and checked and it looks like 40% sphagnum peat, Is this bad?
Also here are 2 pictures taken exactly one day after the other of Eve.
This was yesterday you can see the slight yellowing and dark ridge tips.
This was today and you can see the ridge tips get darker as well as more yellow.
Also room temps are at 75 degrees and 55% Humidity.
I ask because the roots from your girls pump hydrogen ions (ph down) or hydroxide ions (ph up) into the substrate effectively changing the ph according to the elemental composition of nutrients in the medium. I use a medium for seeds and clones that always pushes the ph down, but it has no nutrients. Your girls done the complete opposite. I noticed the substrate you used had nutrients precharged but your ph spiked high. The CEC (cation exchange capacity) reveals that the substrate you and I use is ph dependent, so a substrate that ph independent has the ability to resist and buffer a change in ph for longer periods. Plants roots uptake anions and cations resulting in ph up and ph down, so when anions are taken up by the roots hydroxide ions are released that are alkaline which raised the ph of your medium. You might want to use a ammonium based source of nutrients as the girls improve (at the proper time, of course) which helps maintain a better ph that nitrate based nutrients which push the ph up. It's a balancing act, that's why some prefer going organic, no ph adjustment if done correct.
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- #66
Wow great information this is all starting to make sense now. I watered this morning about 20 minutes ago and I watered with 6.4 PH water and the run off once again was 7.2 PH!!!! which is just way to high.
I think exactly what your saying is occurring the soil is neutralizing its own PH, thus killing my girls.
Now for the real question the soil I currently have is just not cutting it, it holds to much moisture and does not drain well even with the generous amount of Perlite I added.
Could you please recommend some soil that I can go purchase today or tomorrow to transplant into that isn't going to be so wacky and give me so much Nute lock issues?
jinn
New Member
Go hempy man, you won't regret it.
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- #68
Forgive me for sounding stupid what is that exactly?
And I just got off the phone with the local hydro store they have Fox Farm Happy Frog soil and Ocean Forest soil in stock and for a really great deal only 15 dollars a bag.
I don't want to purchase anything until you guys the real masters let me know lol.
jinn
New Member
Hempy is a passive style of hydro. Basically, take your container (2l,gal,5gal whatever) and drill a hole 2in from the bottom. this creates drainage for overflow, and creates a reservoir for nutrients at the bottom. Fill it with your grow medium ( perlite/vermiculite, coco/perlite, etc..) and thats it. Hand water 3 times a day, small amounts, until its roots hit the reservoir, then water once a day with your nutrient mix.
It's easy, not messy, no pests in the medium on arrival,as its all sterile.
GC's First Indoor Cabinet Grow
It's easy, not messy, no pests in the medium on arrival,as its all sterile.
GC's First Indoor Cabinet Grow
PeytonManning
New Member
I agree with jinn. I do all my grows and clones in hempy's, and haven't had a single deficiency or problem yet, and that's with 6 full size plants and about 15 clones. Easiest way to grow
Your substrate says it's organic, and I know lots of folks wind up in the forums looking for help and information to resolve their issues even when they assume a organic mix is going to bring them huge rewards of large dank nugs; but in reality, if folks would adhere to one simple rule, when the babies start looking bad they wait, and they wait, watching her deteriorate, if they would only flush the babies when they start looking ill the issue would be resolved sooner rather than much later. Stress will risk hermies along with all kinds of deficits that set the girls back weeks if not a month for recovery, assuming they don't die irregardless of what folks attempt to do to save them. Flushing releases the toxins, and don't ever believe these guys that say flushing will set the girls back ... not in my experience. In my own experiments I've taken plants and plucked them from their medium and gently washed the roots and placed her back into fresh medium with no ill effects at all. I understand that some strains are more tolerate than others, but I've never ran into an intolerate one in that regard.
When seedlings in small cups are rooted and ph is skewed ( it will be) up or down the one thing to do is flush, and as important as flushing is to a medium with a skewed ph is allowing it to dry and probably flush again ... most times two flushes with subsequent drying periods will bring resolution in substrates that contain peat. Some folks want to drown them by over-watering, but if they can learn not to do that and simply flush and dry, problems solved.
I use a mix at present that's called Metro mix 800, I'm assuming it's not precharged with nutrients, so when I sprout seeds in this mixture the ph dives. Same goes for Miracle Gro seedling mix, ph dives with seedlings and clones. Clones in the MG look great for about two weeks, but simply give them a little water once in a while without measuring ph, well, you'll be in trouble, ph is already out of whackage, and you might think a little fertilizer would help ... what do you have then? I hope you get my drift?
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- #72
Wow nice report I wish I would of read this earlier before running to the store, But I picked up some new soil.
I came home and because I watered them this morning they were still nice and moist and perfect to take the soil out so I turned them over carefully and it came out in one whole piece of soil and man was it moist even though I watered them way earlier, I broke away the soil from the roots and this is what Eve (Auto NYC) looked like.
Im not sure if for 15 days old she looks good but my educated guess is no there is no where near the same root growth or plant growth as compared to most other 15 day old seedlings.
I took your advice BudStud and gave them a clean rinse and repotted them into a new solo cup with a brand new 55% Happy Frog potting mix and 45% Perlite, this mix was very airy and light rather than compared to the last soil I had in and no huge chunks and rocks in this one also. You could easily tell it was a higher grade soil.
Also to Jinn, that's pretty cool with the hempy and I honestly might switch to that approach for my next grow it seems a lot simpler and looks like a lot of fun. Ill read some more into Hempy setups I like the look and would love to have less of a hassle compared to organic.
jinn
New Member
It's definitely something to try, even if its not for you. But I think you'll fall in love with it; the yields are nice, its good if youre disable and lazy like me, and there are organic hydro nutrients you can use in hempy grows too if you want to stick to Organic.
Until then, can't wait to see how this one goes, hope it recovers!
Until then, can't wait to see how this one goes, hope it recovers!
- Thread starter
- #74
Thanks Jinn I am really hoping they recover to, I don't want to lose out on seeing these strains bloom and especially trying them out lol.
- Thread starter
- #75
Ok so day 1 after transplant and Eve (Auto NYC) is looking rough and today she is 16 days old, The exact age that Jolene (Auto Berry) took a turn for the worst and they are showing some very similar characteristics they pale yellow Cotlyedon leaves and the pale yellow new growth that is also starting to show brown/purple discoloration.
You can see the difference from the pictures from yesterday to today.
My best guess is that since both plants are completely different strains and have been getting the same symptoms around the exact same dates in growth. Also since they have been getting properly PH'd water at 6.4-6.5 and the room temps are at 75-80 degrees and 50-60% humidity.
I personally think that the soil must be the issue it has been neutralizing the PH and the run off has been coming out at 7.2 PH so it must be locking out the Nutes, I really hope that the new soil Happy Frog which has PH buffers actually in the soil to help maintain the perfect levels will be the saving grace my girls need.
You can see the difference from the pictures from yesterday to today.
My best guess is that since both plants are completely different strains and have been getting the same symptoms around the exact same dates in growth. Also since they have been getting properly PH'd water at 6.4-6.5 and the room temps are at 75-80 degrees and 50-60% humidity.
I personally think that the soil must be the issue it has been neutralizing the PH and the run off has been coming out at 7.2 PH so it must be locking out the Nutes, I really hope that the new soil Happy Frog which has PH buffers actually in the soil to help maintain the perfect levels will be the saving grace my girls need.
With 2 different strains showing the same problem, I'd ditch the soil, and start with some BASIC, cheap plain potting soil for your seedlings, and use the OFHF for your final pots.
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- #77
Since I already repotted with the Happy frog and I don't want to stress the ladies anymore is it ok to leave them in that for now?
And im not sure if its just me going crazy or if they are honestly doing better but Eve is showing new growth 2 days after transplant and I think her green color is coming back.
Leave them there then if you just transplanted them.
What soil did you use before HF? And how long have they been in HF?
And sometimes all it takes is a bad soil to ruin a whole grow, so maybe that old soil was the problem? I'm hoping so.. it'll be nice seeing another successful grower here
What soil did you use before HF? And how long have they been in HF?
And sometimes all it takes is a bad soil to ruin a whole grow, so maybe that old soil was the problem? I'm hoping so.. it'll be nice seeing another successful grower here
- Thread starter
- #79
Leave them there then if you just transplanted them.
What soil did you use before HF? And how long have they been in HF?
And sometimes all it takes is a bad soil to ruin a whole grow, so maybe that old soil was the problem? I'm hoping so.. it'll be nice seeing another successful grower here
They have been in the Happy Frog for 4 days now and already showing darker green coloration and some small growth.
Also before the HF soil they were in Vigoro Organic soil.
and thanks for the support I really want them to be successful so I can post the final results.
Edit: I will post an update here in the next hour with pictures.
- Thread starter
- #80
Ok here is an update and an exciting one at that.
Eve has been in her new soil for 4 days now and im no scientist but if these next few pictures are not the perfect example of growth I don't know what is.
Day 2 in new Happy Frog soil.
Day 3 in Happy Frog soil.
And DAY 4 in SOIL she is looking much better and that new growth came fast!
Please give me your thoughts, Thank you all.
Eve has been in her new soil for 4 days now and im no scientist but if these next few pictures are not the perfect example of growth I don't know what is.
Day 2 in new Happy Frog soil.
Day 3 in Happy Frog soil.
And DAY 4 in SOIL she is looking much better and that new growth came fast!
Please give me your thoughts, Thank you all.
