Sick plant any suggestions

Z

zimbud

New Member
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Got 3 fruit spirit plants about 5 weeks old grown from feminised seed. Still in original seed raising mix. Indoors, 600w, temp 18-30 degrees C, humidity 35-70. Using rain water collected off roof and general store bought organic liquid fertiliser, foliar and in soil. Want to repot but not sure if I need to add something to new soil to rectify this problem.
 
You definately need a larger pot. The yellowing looks like chlorosis. Plants at this stage love nitrogen. I prefer a tea made from mexican bat guano. You might want to consider dolomite in your new soil. The curling may be ph related. Are you testing the ph of your water?

HD
 
Plants are about 20 inches from lights. My concern is too much fertiliser rather than lack of since I have fed regularly. Have not tested ph so will try get a test kit today.
 
In botany, chlorosis is a condition in which leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is responsible for the green colour of leaves, chlorotic leaves are pale, yellow, or yellow-white. The affected plant has little or no ability to manufacture carbohydrates through photosynthesis and may die unless the cause of its chlorophyll insufficiency is treated.

Chlorosis is typically caused when leaves do not have enough nutrients to synthesise all the chlorophyll they need. It can be brought about by a combination of factors including:

a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron or magnesium
deficient nitrogen and/or proteins
a soil pH at which minerals become unavailable for absorption by the roots
poor drainage (waterlogged roots)
damaged and/or compacted roots

:)
 
zimbud said:
Plants are about 20 inches from lights. My concern is too much fertiliser rather than lack of since I have fed regularly. Have not tested ph so will try get a test kit today.
Click to expand...

That is definately NOT nute burn....
 
I had some plants that I was hardening off that got sun burned and looked just like that!

I know a PH prob can manifest in several ways, I thought I would see some twisty leaves and spotting in colors... otherwise I would say yes, PH!

What kind of organic fert are you using and also how often? Also... have you ever checked the PH and PPM of your collected rain water?
 
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Tested ph of soil, 6.5 so don't think any problem there. Repotted in new soil also 6.5. A little rootbound but not too bad. Gave them a mild dose of epsom salts after reading nutrient disorder problem solver by jackerspackle as margins of leaves turned up and leaves yellowing but veins green. Problem affecting bottom and middle of plant which suggests Mg deficiency. Problem not affecting top or tips of leaves which I would expect from heat stress. Using yates natures way multi nutrient plant food containing manure blood and bone fish emulsion and seaweed. not sure if any of those contain Mg but bottle does not mention it. Posted second pic of different plant, not as bad but shows leanes curling salong the sides. bottom leaves more yellow than photo suggests.
 
I was wondering what the PH, EC/PPM was of the rain water. Rain water is not created equal in all areas and varies in its makeup.
I figure since it came off the roof, it may have some funky count to it.

It may also be advisable to give the starting value of your water; there is a huge difference between RO, distilled water and rain with a PPM of approximately 0 and hard tap water of PPM 300 or maybe more w/rain water from a roof.

I was thinking it would be worth looking at as there does seem to be a possibility of nute lock.

I'm not wanting to start an argument, I respect you too much for that and would rather learn from you than insult you... forgive my ignorance brother :Namaste:


Hogdady said:
^^ Look at post#5...he said he hasn't checked ph....and asking ppm is the wrong question...should be asking about ec....
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I agree with the others that the plant is very likely to be Root Bound!

Transplant into at least a 3 gallon pot and apply B1 transplant solution "Liquinox B1 or similar" to water to prevent shock. These plants need AT LEAST a 3 gallon pot to do well through flower. I would suggest a 5 gallon as your minimum pot size through flowering with a deep profile.

You probably still have a Nitrogen problem. In two days after transplanting, feed it ONE treatment of Miracle grow BLUE half strength. Repeat in three days with normal strength.

That should do the trick.

MG is not ideal for Cannabis, but works best for quick Nitrogen deficiency fix. ;)

Dump the roof water! There are TONS of airborne contaminants that gather on roofs and are mixed into the rain water when it comes off the roof. Unless you live in Antarctica, you're feeding your plant concentrated poisons/toxins from air pollution!

Use a barrel instead to gather the water, or just switch to high grade RO water or clean stream or well water!

PH can be a contributing factor, but it is rarely the root cause of issues like this. Cannabis can grow well in soil PH that would give most Cannabis growers a heart attack! Most weeds are VERY adaptable to varying soil PH levels, and will rarely manifest a complaint in the form of yellowing leaves.

A Nitrogen and/or Magnesium deficiency coupled with the use of polluted water is much more likely the cause here.

My two cents. :)
 
Captain Kronic said:
I was wondering what the PH, EC/PPM was of the rain water. Rain water is not created equal in all areas and varies in its makeup.
I figure since it came off the roof, it may have some funky count to it.

It may also be advisable to give the starting value of your water; there is a huge difference between RO, distilled water and rain with a PPM of approximately 0 and hard tap water of PPM 300 or maybe more w/rain water from a roof.

I was thinking it would be worth looking at as there does seem to be a possibility of nute lock.

I'm not wanting to start an argument, I respect you too much for that and would rather learn from you than insult you... forgive my ignorance brother :Namaste:
Click to expand...

The OP had mentioned that he had not checked ph, so I was referencing that...

It is not advisable to talk ppm's unless you also talk conversion factors. All TDS meters measure EC and then convert it to PPMs, but not all meters use the same conversion factor. EC is a constant, ppm's are relative to their respective conversion factor. Just wanted to throw that out there cuz lots of folks talk ppm's and don't realize they are not all the same.....

PPM-EC-C4.jpg
 
Since repotting in medium sized pots and treating with epsom salts problem seems to have stopped. Though growth has been slow they seem to be picking up now. The more I read the more I am convinced the problem was Mg deficiency as ph is ok at 6.5. I live in a small town in the middle of nowhere so don't think there will be too many contaminants in the rain water. Certainly has a lower ph than the local tap water piped in over 600km and very high ph. Always thought dolomite was alkaline but now realising it is a ph stabilizer will add a bit to my mix when repotting into large pots. Had a look at EC meters very expensive here so will have to wait as I'm on a tight budget but thanks for the table hogdady, will certainly come in usefull in the future.
 
zimbud said:
Since repotting in medium sized pots and treating with epsom salts problem seems to have stopped. Though growth has been slow they seem to be picking up now. The more I read the more I am convinced the problem was Mg deficiency as ph is ok at 6.5. I live in a small town in the middle of nowhere so don't think there will be too many contaminants in the rain water. Certainly has a lower ph than the local tap water piped in over 600km and very high ph. Always thought dolomite was alkaline but now realising it is a ph stabilizer will add a bit to my mix when repotting into large pots. Had a look at EC meters very expensive here so will have to wait as I'm on a tight budget but thanks for the table hogdady, will certainly come in usefull in the future.
Click to expand...

Glad you figured it out! :bravo:

I find the Mag dificiency most often in recently rooted clones that have taken more than 2 weeks to root. Had that problem with a batch of Purple Urkle clones that had the classic Mag Deficiency look. Yellow leaf tips and yellowing bottom leaves with green veins. I have had more experience dealing with this in other crops than with Cannabis, but the remedy is the same in all cases. Epsom Salts added to their watering schedule fixes it every time!

Since a Nitrogen Deficiency can co/exist with a Mag Deficiency to be on the safe side, you might still want to prepare a mixture of some nice Nitrogen containing liquid feed. Something gentle like Fish Emulsion (5-1-1) should do the trick after a feeding or two with no worries of root burn etc. That should help jump start your plants into growing agressively again!

Kelp Extract is another good organic source of Nitrogen and Phosphourous that are more gentle than chemical ferts.
 
great advise goldengoose7 this works for me when i cant figure out problems. mg can be good in a pinch.
 

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