Tent too hot: Using a 1000w

hazeluv69

Well-Known Member
I’ve recently changed my light from my 600w hps to a dimlux 1000w I have used it before & am just entering end of veg so I thought I’d introduce the big light. It is on 600w, I have an oscillating fan and a 6inch extractor fan with ducting towards a window, it is a 1.2x1.2 tent. My issue is since changing the light my temperatures are reaching 29/30 degrees with myself struggling to keep it lower. I’ve used a cool mist humidifer . Opened vents only affected it minutely . Had a fan outside the space didn’t help much. Is this an indication I need a new bulb as it is running at such high temperatures at a low wattage for the particular light? Help needed!
 
hmm not sure what to tell you, I went from cmh to hps to LED pretty fast so my hps experience is lacking . But yeah you are running hot for sure

just to sanity check your setup - you should be drawing cool air in by using lower vents and fan to assist with passive intake then sucking warm air out of the top of the tent with extractor. This is basic hvac principle that warm air rises while cool air sinks. That being said you can’t suck warm air out of the bottom cause that don’t work….

also ducting towards a window caught my eye, it would be better if you could direct vent out the top of the window but you may not be able to for security purposes

be careful our friend Bill284 just had a grow room fire. How to prevent grow room fire <<<< heres the link
 
Is that the doubke-ended 400V 1,000-watt HPS bulb fixture with the ballast attached to it? If so, move the ballast outside of the tent. And if that is an open reflector design, try to find a way to move the "lamp part" into some sort of air-cooled one, so that you can have a separate extraction fan and duct setup for your lighting instead of using the same one for both the lighting and the general garden space. Pull air in from somewhere else, through a "sealed" air-cooled reflector, through the extraction fan (no carbon filter required, assuming no leaks, because that air won't have anything to do with the plants), and on to a different somewhere else from whence it came - so that you're not constantly adding more heat to the air that you're trying to cool the reflector with. In regards to that last part, the same should be true for the air you use to ventilate/cool the general garden space, and for the same reason. And, of course, do not source the air for either cooling run from the space you move the ballast to; a 1Kw ballast makes a fairly good heater, lol, even if it's turned down to 600 watts. Speaking of which, it might not hurt to buy one of those inexpensive Kill A Watt devices so you can check to see exactly how much electricity your light is using.
 
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