Trouble germinating seeds

Stick a thermometer into your soil. Its way cooler than your ambient temps. Add a heat mat, check temp again.

Warm humid air will keep the seed hydrated due to lack of evaporation but humidity by nature cools things, thats its job.

Thats why 10 degrees C and sunny is way warmer than 10 degrees C and rainy but 10 degrees C is 10 degrees C.

The moisture dissipates the heat. The sun radiates it in a penetrating manner.

Its why we sweat, to cool down.

Even just putting a dome over the seeds to stop air movement will warm the soil.

Ambient air temp means nothing to a seed, its controlled by moisture, oxygen, and soil temp. When those are within its genetically required parameters the seed pops.

It doubles my germination rates, actually takes them to about 95% in pretty much every category of vegetable I grow, cannabis included.

A 35C cloudy day at 50% RH will give you far cooler soil than a 35C sunny day at 50% RH. Yet 35C is 35C.

By your logic that soil should be the same temp on both days.

Try the thermometer.

Someone already stated a heat mat is cheaper than seeds, Vivosun sells heat mats, they are one of us 420 folks actually paying for us to be able to discuss this interesting topic, and their heat mats are excellent. Talk to them. They may even comp you one, who knows.

Like I stated earlier, I live in a very hot place, but I still use a $14 heat mat to protect my $15 dollar seeds.

Last years hottest day was 48C. I'm in the desert.

I'm surprised when one fails, not when one works. The failures really screw me up because I expect 100% so I only plant 1 seed per pot. When one actually fails I'm suddenly down a pot.

I've done the comparisons side by side. Many times. I do all my comparisons as many times as I can.

I make my own outdoor seeds for my outdoor strains so I have the luxury of hundreds of seeds to try things with.

For $14 you should give it a try.
 
Well like you say it's the soil temp not air temp when popping beans I use a temp gauge and like you I'm surprised if I fail hell I'm so sure In my process I only start 1 tomato and pepper seed at a time in a rooter to 1 seed per rapid rooter right in my veg room with a heat mat temp @85f and water in the tray and a dome on top with vents I use humic acid when I dampen them and I put the rooter in a couple days before I'm ready to get the rooter to temp and I don't CRAM the bean in there I always can see the top out of the rooter barely But I can see it! Alot of new growers make the mistake of putting the seed in upside down 🤣🤣🤣✌️
 
1 seed apeice doing just fine doing just fine there are clones in the at that time not seed's but that's how I do it works GREAT for me✌️
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Been thinking about trying it the European way once just to save money on rooters and trying a soil blocker anyone here ever try one I guess that's all the folks in Europe use
If you do, any chance you could stop by The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It and let us know how it works, or give us an invite if you are trying it in a journal? I would love to see one in action.
 
I’ve had three seeds show a root while soaking in 1% h2o2. But they haven’t shone any growth when I move them to
H2O2 works better for synthetic growers. It sterilizes the seed so it needs food immediately.

In soil, the soil bacteria can and does overpower the sterile baby.

The microbes in the seed that got sterilized were there as the seedlings immune system so if you transfer them to a sterile medium instead of soil, and then feed them synthetics, it will work better.

H2O2 and organics are polar opposites so an antagonism breaks out immediately.

Not saying it won't work, but you have damaged the seeds ability to achieve its genetic potential before it even pops.

Synthetic guys need to know how to run a daycare. Organic guys have built in babysitters.

Babysitters and daycare attendants don't get along.
 
H2O2 works better for synthetic growers. It sterilizes the seed so it needs food immediately.

In soil, the soil bacteria can and does overpower the sterile baby.

The microbes in the seed that got sterilized were there as the seedlings immune system so if you transfer them to a sterile medium instead of soil, and then feed them synthetics, it will work better.

H2O2 and organics are polar opposites so an antagonism breaks out immediately.

Not saying it won't work, but you have damaged the seeds ability to achieve its genetic potential before it even pops.

Synthetic guys need to know how to run a daycare. Organic guys have built in babysitters.

Babysitters and daycare attendants don't get along.
Yup and I HATE BABYSITTING. I'm a lazy grower I'd rather have my microbes and my beneficial insects do my work for me I just have to keep them happy. The organic guys are the biologists and the synthetic guys are the scientists a matter of 2 different opinions
 
I don't use the heat mat with the clones I found it likes to burn the tops of the plant because of the moisture on the dome and the light
I agree. Room temps or even slightly cooler is where I get my best roots. Heat mats rev the cuttings and they consume themselves before roots can establish a food chain.

Cloning is about patience in my humble opinion. Give them the conditions and leave them be, don't push them until the roots, thats plural, not just one, are bigger than the plant is tall.

Organically speaking of course, synthetics can and do work differently.
 
You know I've tried the other way clone machine sterile and flood and drain matter of fact I got a controller bucket Im selling and a clone machine I think that's a 64 site ez cloner but anyways I like the organic way much better and it's better for me and my patients am a caregiver butI gave up the caregiving when recreational came legal
 
I'm a lazy farmer I let the microbiology do the work and yeah patience is a virtue when it comes to cloning
It took me awhile but I finally figured out that smaller side branch clones work better in soil than cloners, but large clones with hollow stalks work better in cloners than soil.
 
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