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Hey Bob, there some sort of rule of thumb to follow for air pumps? I've seen 0.08 CFM/gal at least...however most pumps don't advertise a CFM rating....so is there a good rule of some sort to follow like "x PSI per gal" or "x watt per gal"?
Edit: Just realized there's a GPH rating, so perhaps a minimum to aim for using that rating?
Yeah that’s where I’d found the 0.08 mark from...what I see from most advertising the cfm isn’t listed...but from what he’s saying I gather a 2 cfm pump is in the range of 600 gph...and these cheap aquarium pumps are around 60 gph...so huge difference lol
Yes....
A good read:
Microbe Organics
I use his Mini-Microbulator + Homer bucket with a lid and I did cutouts.
Tim has done a bunch of work with this and his latest suggestions are:
"The outcome of this research was, the estimation, that the minimum flow required from an air pump to make compost tea while maintaining the DO2 at 6 PPM, is 0.05 CFM per gallon while the optimum flow is 0.08 CFM per gallon or greater. (the only exception was when utilizing airlifts)
This means that most aquarium pumps will not work with a 5 gallon ACT maker, no matter what a couple of guys from Texas say. Two gallons, perhaps."
Suggestion is to get a pump that goes minimum 2 CFM.. for a 5 gal ECT brew. I usually end up with more tea than I need... hello outdoor garden, this time of year (winter) is perfect for a ACT for the outdoor garden, indoors 2 of course.
All I know about brewing ACT I found on that website. I've upgraded a few time with my air pump and just bought a new brewer thingy from BAS.
didn't see mention of "where" the peat had to come from, but had never seen this mentioned beforeI sometimes include a pinch or handful [depending on brewer size] of sphagnum peatmoss in a brew. Depending on where the peatmoss was harvested, it will contribute a set of microbes somewhat similar to that derived from the 'Alaska' humus or humisoil products on the market. It is a least a better bang for your buck and at best a trifle better quality-wise.
Like I said, something I don't think I'd come across before and never see anyone mention this when the argument is brought up that "A plant doesn't care where it gets it's N from because it's all the same"To simplify things I'll restrict the discussion to the plant's use of nitrogen (N). The forms of N which plant roots are able to uptake are in ionic form or soluble. These soluble forms of N are ammonium (NH4+) and nitrate (NO3-). Very simply stated these soluble forms of N are instantly available in chemical N and there is no need for any bacterial/archaeal (B/A) mineralization to make them available to the roots of plants. There is some indication that some soluble ammonium is utilized by B/A and mineralized into nitrates, however this appears (to me) somewhat an opportunistic occurrence (from the B/A perspective). So yes we can concur that B/A eats and thrives on some chemically provided ions but this action is not a necessary one for the plant to uptake exactly the same ions as are being consumed by the B/A. In certain circumstances the B/A will be in competition with the plant for these nutrients. So it appears that plants can grow in this fashion without interaction by mineralizing B/A. It appears that the chemically provided ions (soluble N) completely bypass the microbial nutrient cycle.
With natural or organic growing, N ( R-NH2 ) for the plant is contained (sequestered) in a non-soluble (non-ionic) form in organic matter (or in the case of the gardener; compost and other soil foods). It is true that there are certain known bacteria (and now some archaea) which directly fix and supply ionic forms of N to the roots of plants and this is an area where 'we' are still learning so all is not known by any stretch. However soil scientists have discovered and it is common knowledge (as knowledge goes) that the bulk of NH4+ and NO3- are delivered to the roots of plants by protozoa (flagellates, amoebae and ciliates). This occurs in a complex network ostensibly, controlled in large degree by the plant. The plant releases compounds from the roots which feed B/A, thereby increasing the B/A population. The B/A consumes/processes forms of R-NH2 or forms which are pre-degraded by fungi and or other B/A. The B/A further multiply with a good supply of food and their large population encourages the excysting (hatching from cysts) and dividing of protozoa. The protozoa prey upon the B/A and in an approximate 30 minute period complete the excretion of NH4+ and/or NO3- available to the roots of the plants. Apparently protozoa only utilize 30 to 40 percent of the nutrient consumed making 60 to 70% available to plants and many have a division cycle of 2 hours so the efficiency of this nutrient delivery system is considerable. Just as it began, the microbial N cycle can be rapidly shut down by chemical emissions from the plant. It is apparent that the nutrient needs of the plant can change within short periods (perhaps in hours). There is much yet unknown, however I hypothesize that even disease control may be effected by a sudden reduction of N in the rhizosphere. This is certainly something which cannot be effectively manipulated by chemical N applications.
GOP said:Like I said, something I don't think I'd come across before and never see anyone mention this when the argument is brought up that "A plant doesn't care where it gets it's N from because it's all the same"
I see it all the time in the “Ask Us Anything: Sharing Knowledge” thread in FAQs....they say “A plant can’t tell the difference between synthetic N or organic N”
I assume their standing is that plant do uptake ammonium and nitrate, and that bacteria and fungi give off N in this form, so could a plant tell a difference between a synthetic NH4+ ion or an organic one?
I don’t exactly know what R-NH2 is yet so not sure if this question would be phrased right but...in a living soil, how much % of N would a plant intake in ionic form(NH4+ & NO3-) vs R-HN2?
Hey i do have compost as well as store bought mushroom compost i was looking for a fungal dom tea and was just wondering what good ratios would be or how i could figure out what ratio i could do with what i have.i have a big enough air pump dont really need to much tea as well i was wondering to if mushroom vompost would be better for my tea or if i could usr as a top dressing or mulch. it does have a kinda clay like structure to it like somebody added worm casting to clay chuncks one other think ive heard that its better to give molasses alone as a tea i read an article that said its basicly desert for microbes and that you wouldn't eat desert first so why would you start your microbes of with it just curious on everybodys 2 sense about this
Same as in hydroponic gardening... you cant taste the difference between and hydro grown tomato and one you grew in organic soil... big difference.
Here's some science on the subject from University of Minnesota Extension service! There' that dang Extension Service again, helping people with soil... well not in Oregon or Washington State ....
Click in the link to the chapter on "Nitrogen Transformations" but the whole article is very informative and may answer some questions and hopefully raise others.
On N uptake and how I see it. The plants will uptake and help convert organic N to the inorganic version the plant can use. The plant makes the decision on when and how much they need. We "feed" the plant inorganic N in the form of chemical fertilizers. The plants will gladly uptake it regardless if she needs or wants more. That is the difference between feeding the plant and having the plant work with the environment to feed itself. In Cannabis, it's fairly easy to see which plants are being "fed" and which plants are feeding themselves.
Same as in hydroponic gardening... you cant taste the difference between and hydro grown tomato and one you grew in organic soil... big difference.
Understanding nitrogen in soils : Nitrogen : Nutrient Management : Agriculture : University of Minnesota Extension
Awesome info, thanks Bob! Listened to both podcasts got some great info out of them too Gonna read through that soon
AG....while you may not be able to get EWC, a local source of compost instead of vermicomp may actually suffice better.....compost itself is still rich in bacteria & fungus and it's good to have some local stuff because the F/B you'd be brewing are species which you know are capable of surviving in your local environment
Did you mean to say can taste the difference there Bb?
I actually have a question about tea myself. I haven’t been able to source worm castings (believe me, I’ve tried everywhere for some months now) and my own farm has only just arrived to be set up (for one as a gift!!) so home-made castings are still some ways off. I have, however, been lucky enough to have been gifted a large bottle of worm wee. Will this make a T just as effective as castings? And what kind of strength would you recommend I mix it at? I’m thinking I should do a blend with some of the ground malted barley... and maybe some seaweed tea in the mix as well?
I’m not equipped to aerate it, I’m hoping it’ll be fine after let sit for an hour or 2.
Cheers
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