2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

Yes the mold is being held off and kept off, for now anyway. I think this is a good read for all different types of mold.

Powdery Mildews


Quick Facts...
Powdery mildew is one of the most widespread and easily recognized plant diseases.
Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth.
Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates.
Many plants have been developed to be resistant or tolerant to powdery mildew.
Succulent tissue is more susceptible to infection. Once the disease is a problem, avoid late summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer.

Powdery mildews are one of the most widespread and easily recognized plant diseases. They affect virtually all kinds of plants: cereals and grasses, vegetables, ornamentals, weeds, shrubs, fruit trees, and broad-leaved shade and forest trees. In Colorado, powdery mildews are common on ash, lilac, grape, roses, turfgrass, vegetables (such as cucurbits and peas), euonymus, cherry, apple, crabapple, pear and Virginia creeper, among others.

Symptoms

Even though there are several types of powdery mildew fungi, they all produce similar symptoms on plant parts. Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth. Tiny, pinhead-sized, spherical fruiting structures that are first white, later yellow-brown and finally black, may be present singly or in a group. These are the cleistothecia or overwintering bodies of the fungus.

The disease is most commonly observed on the upper sides of the leaves. It also affects the bottom sides of leaves, young stems, buds, flowers and young fruit. Infected leaves may become distorted, turn yellow with small patches of green, and fall prematurely. Infected buds may fail to open.

Conditions That Favor the Disease

The severity of the disease depends on many factors: variety of the host plant, age and condition of the plant, and weather conditions during the growing season.

Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry climates. This is because the fungus does not need the presence of water on the leaf surface for infection to occur. However, the relative humidity of the air does need to be high for spore germination. Therefore, the disease is common in crowded plantings where air circulation is poor and in damp, shaded areas. Incidence of infection increases as relative humidity rises to 90 percent, but it does not occur when leaf surfaces are wet (e.g., in a rain shower). Young, succulent growth usually is more susceptible than older plant tissues.

About the Fungi

Powdery mildews are host specific -- they cannot survive without the proper host plant. For example, the species Uncinula necator, which causes powdery mildew on grape and linden, does not attack lilac. Similarly, Microsphaea alni affects elm, catalpa, lilac and oak but not turfgrass.

Powdery mildews produce mycelium (fungal threads) that grow only on the surface of the plant. They never invade the tissues themselves. The fungi feed by sending haustoria, or root-like structures, into the epidermal (top) cells of the plant. The fungi overwinter on plant debris as cleistothecia or mycelium. In the spring, the cleistothecia produce spores that are moved to susceptible host tissue by splashing raindrops, wind or Insects.

Control
Cultural
Several practices will reduce or prevent powdery mildews. Many plants, such as roses, vegetables and Kentucky bluegrass, are developed to be resistant or tolerant to powdery mildew. Inquire about resistant varieties before a purchase. If resistant varieties are unavailable, do not plant in low, shady locations.

Once the disease becomes a problem:
Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the production of succulent tissue, which is more susceptible to infection.
Avoid overhead watering to help reduce the relative humidity.
Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, etc.). For infected vegetables and other annuals, remove as much of the plant and its debris in the fall as possible. This decreases the ability of the fungus to survive the winter. Do not compost infected plant debris. Temperatures often are not hot enough to kill the fungus.
Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation. This helps reduce relative humidity and infection.

Chemical

If cultural controls fail to prevent disease buildup or if the disease pressure is too great, an application of a fungicide may be necessary.

These include:
sulfur,
neem oil (Rose Defense, Shield-All, Triact),
triforine (Ortho Funginex), ornamental use only, or
potassium bicarbonate (Kaligreen, First Step)

Chemicals are most effective when combined with cultural controls. Apply fungicides at seven to 14-day intervals to provide continuous protection throughout the growing season. Follow the instructions on the fungicide label for use on specific plant species, varieties, rates to be used, timing of applications, and waiting periods before harvest.

An alternative nontoxic control for mildew is baking soda (similar to the potassium bicarbonate listed above) combined with a lightweight horticultural oil (Sunspray). Researchers at Cornell University have discovered the fungicidal properties of this combination against powdery mildew on roses. Applications of 1 tablespoon baking soda plus 2.5 tablespoons of Sunspray oil in 1 gallon of water are still experimental. Use it at your own risk.
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

part of an email that was sent to me: downy mildew that plagues my squash every single year. I read up on it and learned that dry, shady conditions help it flourish and that *preventing* it involves spraying the leaves with water early enough in the day that they can dry. This apparently washes off the spores so they can't take hold. (I don't know if that's true, since wouldn't the spores then be in the soil?)

Once you have it, you need to cut off the infected leaves (and not compost them). You can then prevent it from spreading to other leaves or plants by spraying a baking soda solution (1 tsp each of baking soda, dish soap and vegetable oil in 1 gallon water). I was worried the mildew from my zucchini would spread to the cucumber, so I've done this and to my extreme surprise it's halted the spread of the mildew on my zucchini. I spray every day (nearly) and try to make sure I do so when it's warm and dry enough for the leaves to dry.
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

Since the bpn feed they got a molasses feed and tomorrow will get mo bpn...



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so much for the foot to foot and a half of air space at the top. Three or four times i trimmed the tops and thought it was prolonging the start to flower. So i stopped...
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

john235 said:
my fan a 2ft x2ft box fan blowing in, hanging in doorway . 2 days now . and 24 hours since i had any sign of mold. I can smell how much better the air is. The girls love it . mine will have a fan blowiing in freash air from now on. And vinegar and water will kill mold on living plants. It may not get rid of all spores ,but if you can keep on top of it .Outside your just happy to control these little problems early .
Click to expand...
The only way the vinegar would work is if you actually dipped the buds in it and let it soak in which would ruin everything because Mold starts at the center of the buds and works its way to the surface so by the time that it has even been spotted or becomes visible it has already spread further and deeper than you can imagine. Usually if it is spotted on the outside of a bud, the inside has already become a moldy mushy mess and it is the biggest densest buds that are attacked first.

Mold is a fungus that feeds on moisture and grows anyplace where it is damp or where there is decaying matter ( Including inside your lungs):thedoubletake:. Mold by itself is not toxic, but it can become poisonous when it develops toxins, usually mycotoxins. Thus the term - Toxic Mold.

Please be careful :) ha ha

:peace:
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

Vinegar changes the ph on the leaf and the mold CAN NOT LIVE THEN. But GH its been 2 days with no mold . I mixed more vinegar up this morning ,but did not spray any since there was none to spray. AIR FLOW is the key. air flow will stop mold from forming . and vinegar will wipe it out. and yes take out any mold found ,but area spray and get the air moving.. the girls love it. big time. I also removed a lot of fan leaves ,now the breeze can blow between the buds better.. mold showing up is not the death of a crop.ANYTHING except a virus can be fixed. But im sold, air movement as the key. LIKE THE WIFE SAID ALL BIG GREENHOUSES HAVE A FAN ON EACH END. They know its their business to know
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

Sorry but it does work.mold is NOT the death of your grow.
Vinegar lowers the PH on the leaf and mold can not live in that ph.
But i'm sold that air flow is the key. Went out this morning with my vinegar spray and for the second day, nothing to spray. The girls really love the breeze. I also have been taking fan leaves off for better light and air flow.:high-five: I'm sold on air flow, the wife was right .As much as i hate to admit it. All big greenhouses have fans on both ends changing air . I cam smell and see how much better it is.:Namaste:
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

Gh Reading above on pm was great.So the question is .....What are the mold resistant strains?
Also it said that the mold does not invade the tissue but lives on surface... kind of good.
I'm going to have one windy shed next year.lol with a lot more pruning.
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

Yes they did.. just, been busy setting up my new flower room, its a vertical thing in some cabinets. This last week has been real hard to keep going but..don't have a choice. Turned it on today, looking forward to some results.
 
re: 2012 Greenhouse LST Grow

Hey man! Tell me about it, I'm ok, lots to do these days keepin my army of girls happy. Hows you doin..?



p.s. i'm not deaf or blind! yet lol
 

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