Thanks rifle ill see what I can come up with.
 
firstly i feel 3 gal is small for dwc. in future id double that size for 1 plant if possible.

id change atleast weekly in bloom or every 5 days. your plant will throw roots out now and start using up more nutes and the plant will change its needs often during flower. my advice is use a quality boost and use cannazym or similar in res to break down any dead or dying roots.

for heat issues id cut a hole into attack and exhaust into there. that should drop temps depending on what temp of your house is. you want it running between 80-85f with leds.
 
I agree with Cultivator :), and should have been clearer, but was concentrated on your query in the other thread. In my five gallon dwc buckets I change the reservoir every weekend. I'm using a handful of AN products, one being Sensizym for breaking down dead material. Temps are also more of a concern in the smaller res. Take a look at my blog for a DIY on a large dwc. When I'm done with the one plant I have in it now, I'm going to swap lids to one with room for several smaller plants. I'm thinking I can fit five 4" pots or three 6" ones in a lid. :)
 
Ok I have not been in the 3g dwc for weeks now guys. My current set up is 10g dwc =)

I have been changing water out ever 7-10 days and doing ph and water adjustments in between changes.

My temp seems to be not bad as my range for the day with lights on and off goes from 70-82 while running a 240w led and exhaust van.

My new issue my sour d plant completly took over my space and is dwarfing my ak-47. I even have the light hung on an angle to get lower to her. Im only about 4 inches from the light to top of the sour d right now. Do i pinch the steam and then gently angle the steam down to train her?
 
Update: 9 days into flowering and running out of room with this sour diesel plant.....
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Only at this moment have 6 inches from top of her. how can i fix this issue? She also in the next picture is shown over taking the ak-47 who is the smaller plant in the back left. Thats why im putting the light on an angle.


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Im going to have to do something soon bc the ak isnt getting full light bc of the sour.....
 
Don't know how I missed a week of posts in here. Looking good!
:thumb:

Are you still having slime? If so as Rifleman suggested, the res temps are a bit high. Either try to lower them and run sterile, possibly exchange the res weekly. Or give up and put in beneficial bacteria to eat up the slime.

If you wanna spend some money and clean it up fast get some Advanced Nutrients Voodoo Juice and Sensizyme. Put a bunch in there of each. The res will start to foam and that is good bacteria breeding. Depending on how dirty it is they will retreat to not foaming in less than 24 hours.

I make my own bacteria and use a different brand of enzymes but I have used those Advanced Nutrient products and they work well.

If you wanna run sterile go to the hydro store and get some high concentration hydrogen peroxide. The stuff you get at the pharmacy is like 97% water. The hydro store stuff is dangerous to a lot of things. Use gloves and put a little in each week and if you can keep the temps low enough you can keep the bacteria down enough to not notice them.
 
Wont that force the plants down and mess with the light absorption of the leaves? Or thats just training them to grow down but they still are ok its that they will be bushier?
 
Now when you bend do you actually squeeze the plant at the stem and then pinch her to almost damage her then point down?
 
That is one method. There are many methods of training. I don't personally prefer that one. But it works great.

The winner of last month plant of the month contest posted today right in the end of the thread how he stretched it.

I prefer a SCROG. But still do a lot of old school strings.
 
VI how are you doing it?
 
A plant can always be, and in fact should be, cut back to the space it can bloom properly in. Usually they are bloomed before needing to be thinned out but not always.

There are many ways train correctly ... and almost right, and good enough... to fantastic.

There is actually a lot about training to learn to do it right. But it takes almost no understanding to to it correctly.

Supper cropping is not a novice technique. You should start with something easy like tying back the major stalks.

There are pros and cons to every method.

As for how I do it it, it really depends on the grow, the strain and my goal. When I am on the hunt for a good mother it is different then when I am growing out a plant I know is female like a clone.

Do I want to veg for 35 or 55 days?


There are actually a lot of things to think about. I think the most important factor is the most overlooked. The fact that you can grow one plant per grow light if trained correctly for a few extra weeks is really awesome. Fewer pots is way less work. 2 plants is twice as much work as 1 plant WRT watering and ferts. 4 plants is twice worse than that.

But there are advantages to doing it all real fast.

If I want to grow a big fatty I will SCROG it. Nice things about a scrog include is it is forcing from one point on one side and is easy to adjust. Major Con is you can't make any mistakes. Removing the plant to flush it or do any work on the plant individually is very difficult... if possible.
 
I understand all that. Now i was looking to see about putting my clones in soil for this grow. I was abel to pick up some fox farm light warrior. Its all the store had and was told it should be good for what i needed. I said i need soil with no fertilizer and this is what they had. they offered a store made organic that was half the price but i stayed away.

So should i move these guys into solos cups or right into the pot they will stay in for bloom? how big of pot should each be put in?
 
Village is correct, less is more.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
 
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