Interveinal chlorosis on the top half of plants

i did actually lower the max minerals to about 4ml in the last feed when it recommends 5 because it says on the side if using hard water to lower max minerals to 3.5ml and i was thinking my tap water is alkaline due to it usually testing above 7 and leaving calcium deposits on stuff, but other than that the rest was full strength.
My water comes out of the tap at 8.2. If I let it sit for 24 hrs and off-gas, it stabilizes to 7.3.
I also have calcium deposits and used to think that my water was unusable.
Once I tested it with a TDS meter I found that my water is perfectly fine and have actually needed to add cal-mag at times.
You won't really know until you test it.
You may just need to off-gas your water and let it stabilize.
 
I grow my plants outside at over 120,000 lux and can still burn them in the tent if the light is too close, even at 30,000 lux. It's not apples to apples.
interesting how nature works, yeah i guess even if its called full spectrum doesnt mean its the the exact same balance of spectrum and intensity that the sun provides, maybe thats part of the reason it is so different.
 
My water comes out of the tap at 8.2. If I let it sit for 24 hrs and off-gas, it stabilizes to 7.3.
I also have calcium deposits and used to think that my water was unusable.
Once I tested it with a TDS meter I found that my water is perfectly fine and have actually needed to add cal-mag at times.
You won't really know until you test it.
You may just need to off-gas your water and let it stabilize.
Thats really interesting, i never thought ph would fluctuate that much over night i will have to try leaving it over night and see if mine changes that much checking ph before and after and tds before and after too. Im pretty sure my tap water is around 300 or 400 tds without off-gassing although it has been a few months since i checked that.
 
Thats really interesting, i never thought ph would fluctuate that much over night i will have to try leaving it over night and see if mine changes that much checking ph before and after and tds before and after too. Im pretty sure my tap water is around 300 or 400 tds without off-gassing although it has been a few months since i checked that.
300-400 Is pretty high and you may want to cut it by half with RO. I think most nute manufacturers recommend water under 300 TDS.


Off-gassing can change pH but doesn't change TDS as far as I know.
 
300-400 Is pretty high and you may want to cut it by half with RO. I think most nute manufacturers recommend water under 300 TDS.


Off-gassing can change pH but doesn't change TDS as far as I know.
Alright i will likely go with half and half after i double check tds, thanks. Okay ill just check ph before and after then maybe just tds after, just wasnt sure if there could be some other reactions during the off-gassing that could cause solids to be more or less available to be dissolved in solution possibly changing the tds but im likely just over thinking that like i do with most things if no one else has ever noticed much of a notable difference.
 
Here is some info that I found about pH lowering after it's had a chance to sit out.

Water left out will absorb a small amount of oxygen, a very small portion of which—about 0.13 percent. It converts into carbonic acid. ... That carbonic acid then converts into carbonate or bicarbonate, lowering the pH of your water and turning it ever so slightly more acidic.

Off-gassing was the wrong term. It's actually gasses coming into equilibrium with the atmosphere.
 
I'm guessing the only thing that will be outgassing in those 24 hours will be chlorine if that's what your water company uses.
Here is some info that I found about pH lowering after it's had a chance to sit out.

Water left out will absorb a small amount of oxygen, a very small portion of which—about 0.13 percent. It converts into carbonic acid. ... That carbonic acid then converts into carbonate or bicarbonate, lowering the pH of your water and turning it ever so slightly more acidic.

Off-gassing was the wrong term. It's actually gasses coming into equilibrium with the atmosphere.
Thanks for the info, I had always thought carbonate and bicarbonate were alkaline due to my minor water chemisty understanding from salt water aquariums but i guess in an acidic form like carbonic acid through acidifying the water when it converts to carbonate and bicarbonate it is such small levels of that .13% that they have no impact on alkalinity or ph themselves as the acid is much stronger if im understanding it correct. which i definitely may not be haha. This thread is starting to almost feel like i am going to kush college haha.
 
i would also just like to say that i am definitely enjoying 420 forums and the knowledgeable help i have been getting from you all and really like how theres light contests all the time on here too, hoping i strike it lucky with one eventually lol. Thank you all who have helped me so far and who continue to help. Its highly appreciated.
 
Thanks for the info, I had always thought carbonate and bicarbonate were alkaline due to my minor water chemisty understanding from salt water aquariums but i guess in an acidic form like carbonic acid through acidifying the water when it converts to carbonate and bicarbonate it is such small levels of that .13% that they have no impact on alkalinity or ph themselves as the acid is much stronger if im understanding it correct. which i definitely may not be haha. This thread is starting to almost feel like i am going to kush college haha.
after some more googling i think i might have a slight bit better understanding now than i did earlier in that the carbonate it converts to acts as a buffer making the acid not as strong.
Screenshot_20210917-014016_Firefox.jpg
 
after some more googling i think i might have a slight bit better understanding now than i did earlier in that the carbonate it converts to acts as a buffer making the acid not as strong.
Screenshot_20210917-014016_Firefox.jpg
if that is even relevant to what was mentioned, i never was the best at chemistry and am trying to understand it so forgive me if not lol.
 
hey just was wondering some peoples opinions on some cheap led floodlights im thinking about ordering online for my other clones and which one i should go with, im considering either warm white (2700k-3000k) with a couple small added 6000k leds or the typical blurple grow lights? i know most people on here have said white light is better but just double checking. these are the lights im talking about and are only like $5 canadian each for 50w (27 true) and $10 each for 100w (65 true) but need to be wired up. right now im thinking 2 100w warm whites.
Screenshot_20210922-034430_AliExpress.jpg
They are 220v but i have a voltage transformer already. Sorry if i should have started a new thread for this question since its concerning other plants but i wasnt sure.

Screenshot_20210922-033200_AliExpress.jpg
 
or if not those i may wait and go with a cheap quantum board that is around 65-100 true watts depending on which one i got that also claims to have samsung 281 B+ diodes, these are like $20- $30 canadian with free shipping
Screenshot_20210922-070142_AliExpress.jpg
 
If you're running clones and seedlings I would go with the cool white. It more closely mimics the sun during the summer.
Thanks man, it is for clones however i should have mentioned i do have some store bought houshold leds and cfls for vegging already that are slightly more focused in the cool white spectrum, i accidentally took too many clones though and my 3x3 clone space is already almost full and i havent even switched to bud in the main grow due to the nutrient battles so i was thinking about maybe using a 3x2 tent i have had laying around for like 3 years never opened and making another flower room that could possibly double for vegging aswell when needed unless thats a dumb idea. Would it maybe be a better idea to get 1 ww and 1 cw or just both ww and add in cool white when used for veg? i do have 2 x 25W cool white led corn cob e27 bulbs that could be added on the sides from the current clone room during when it is used for veg aswell. Here is my current clone room (or clone shower i guess lol). Thanks again Intheshed
20210922_155441.jpg
 
Breaking out another tent for flowering is a great idea, though you want to make sure you have enough lux in there to make it worth your time at harvest. I'm not sure that throwing a bunch of cheap low wattage LEDs are the way to go, but a lot depends on the budget and your cannabis needs in grams/day.

We have some great sponsors in the low wattage/lower price range that can produce some great results. @Carcass is flowering his indoor grow with 100watts, as you can see here.

In terms of the current space above, I suggest you make tin foil hats for the two tubes at the top as well because they're lighting up the ceiling!
 
Breaking out another tent for flowering is a great idea, though you want to make sure you have enough lux in there to make it worth your time at harvest. I'm not sure that throwing a bunch of cheap low wattage LEDs are the way to go, but a lot depends on the budget and your cannabis needs in grams/day.

We have some great sponsors in the low wattage/lower price range that can produce some great results. @Carcass is flowering his indoor grow with 100watts, as you can see here.

In terms of the current space above, I suggest you make tin foil hats for the two tubes at the top as well because they're lighting up the ceiling!

Yeah i figured i might as well since i have only room for 2 big plants in the 4x2 and not sure what else i am going to do with 6 clones lol. The 100w floodlamps pull like 65w each from the wall so if i did go that route it would likely still be like 130 true watts plus the 2 25w cool whites which probably add another 25w true together too so i assume it would be like atleast 150 true watts for a 3x2 with one or 2 plants, the main caveats if i went cheap being i wouldnt have added deep red, ir or uv to boost potency or yeild, low quality lights, not as efficient and also safety from venting heat. I have looked through some of those sponsored lights though and will keep looking through them as i have no doubt they would be a much higher quality more efficacious product that will last years where as the floodlamps will be very difficult to keep cool due to the flimsy bendable tin heatsinks however if i did go the ultimate cheap route (floodlamps from aliexpress) and added a bunch of small heat sinks myself with thermal paste i assume they would only still last maybe a couple cycles if im lucky so i would consider that the disposable option versus sponsored lights being a more long term option. If I attempt an experiment with the cheap lights its only like $25 canadian total with shipping and heatsinks included wasted though if they fail right away or dont provide enough lux and then id forsure be going a more long term route. For the floodlights i believe it said it provides 100 lumens per watt so im not sure if that would be x65 or x100 as they claim it is 100 true watts (reviews say 65). Reguardless it would be 6000-10000 lumens per that would be 12000-20000 lumens for both plus 6000 lumens from the corn cob leds so around 18000-26000 lumens for 6 square feet if that is correct and i wouldnt be too concerned with yeild as it would just be supplemental to my main tent. Just need to decide if its worth spending like 4 to 8x more right off the bat with a sponsored brand or not lol. Thanks for the suggestion about the tinfoil hats too for the corn cob light, i will try again to make a ghetto hood for them tonight lol.
 
Breaking out another tent for flowering is a great idea, though you want to make sure you have enough lux in there to make it worth your time at harvest. I'm not sure that throwing a bunch of cheap low wattage LEDs are the way to go, but a lot depends on the budget and your cannabis needs in grams/day.

We have some great sponsors in the low wattage/lower price range that can produce some great results. @Carcass is flowering his indoor grow with 100watts, as you can see here.

In terms of the current space above, I suggest you make tin foil hats for the two tubes at the top as well because they're lighting up the ceiling!
sorry in advance for the extremely long reply aswell lol my bad.
 
No worries...a few line breaks in there would have helped though. :)

I personally wouldn't go with cheap lights because of the fire hazard they might present, along with suspect output numbers. They shouldn't be listing their output in lumens, that's for household bulbs. Ideally they'd be showing PAR or PPFD, or at least lux.

And the sponsors here often run coupons and discounts for 420 members.
 
No worries...a few line breaks in there would have helped though. :)

I personally wouldn't go with cheap lights because of the fire hazard they might present, along with suspect output numbers. They shouldn't be listing their output in lumens, that's for household bulbs. Ideally they'd be showing PAR or PPFD, or at least lux.

And the sponsors here often run coupons and discounts for 420 members.

fair enough i will try to add more line breaks so it is easier to read, just never liked pressing the space bar a million times lol. I will likely wait and do a bit more research before i make a decision, Its just the super cheap wattage of the floodlights being relatively the right spectrum why they are so enticing to try lol but fire hazard concerns are obviously by far the largest drawback. One other light one of the full spec quantum boards on aliexpress is only like $30-$40 CAD free shipping and pulls 110 watts from the wall that claims to have samsung chips and i think it had a meanwell driver too but not 100% on that. I didnt know that alot of the sponsors have discount codes for 420 members though ive only seen one so far that was for a very expensive light but i will take a look if any are running and compare the best price to quality to watts for all the options before i make a decission. Im still not exactly sure about ppfd and umols and what they mean so i should prolly learn to understand that fully aswell instead of guessing on those haha.
 
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