Mountain Goat
Active Member
Would love to work through your note sheet for your build.....equip and spec......will go a long way helping me come to a decision
....I have found some local SA suppliers and agents for bits and pieces of equip.
Need help understanding COB-LED vs normal LED
Would love to work through your note sheet for your build.....equip and spec......will go a long way helping me come to a decision
....I have found some local SA suppliers and agents for bits and pieces of equip.
LB07
Well-Known Member
Would love to work through your note sheet for your build.....equip and spec......will go a long way helping me come to a decision
I can't PM you yet... have an IG?
Mountain Goat
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #44
If you want to use cree, how the hell do you know what series to buy? let say i run a 1400 amp driver and XXX W, what cree should i get, i see some like CXB3590s. Got something like CXB3590-XXXXX1 and CXB3590s-XXXX2. What does the last part of the serial number say?
Mountain Goat
Active Member
https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-CXB3590.pdf
Check page 17 for the nomenclature of the suffix codes..........
Grassmaster
Well-Known Member
Here's a video that tells you exactly what you are asking. Probably of no help as you don't speak English.
[video=youtube;gYdN6d0v814]
If I were to build my own, I would just get a kit like this one. And you can copy the part numbers and try and get them cheaper. Theirs a video that tells exactly how to build it step by step and what tools needed.
Cutter Electronics - Suppliers of Cree Leds, lowest cost leds on the internet
But even though I'm basically an engineer, that's too much work for me. I would just get one of these. They're basically the same design probably copied from GROWMAU5. At about the same cost and everything is done.
Timber Grow Lights
Grassmaster
Well-Known Member
Basically you have to make sure that whatever COB's you select, (EACH) will easily handle the current of 1400mA which is 1.4 Amps. And you have to know the output DC voltage of your driver. The voltage of the COB's you select (should all add up to) the output voltage of your driver. So you have to look up the current and voltage of your COBS and the current and voltage output of your driver. Hope that clears things up.
LB07
Well-Known Member
Basically you have to make sure that whatever COB's you select, (EACH) will easily handle the current of 1400mA which is 1.4 Amps. And you have to know the output DC voltage of your driver. The voltage of the COB's you select (should all add up to) the output voltage of your driver. So you have to look up the current and voltage of your COBS and the current and voltage output of your driver. Hope that clears things up.
There are calculators online that are designed to show you which HLG driver to select. 1400mah isn't the only amperage you can run. People run crees as low as .700a.
COB LED Constant Current Driver Selection Tool - LED Gardener
Use this tool. My next fixture ill Likely build at a lower current than 1400. Figure out which combination works for you. Try and average at least 30w per square foot and you'll be alright.
Rider509
Well-Known Member
Grab four 36V CXB3590s in whatever flavor (3500K) you like and pair them up with an HLG-320H-C2100B. Wide open you can hit 331W (just verified that tonight) or dial them down to cruise at 200W. No brainer... tried and tested. I'm a firm believer in more light is better light. My system grows healthy plants at 50W/ft^2, or 16 COBs for a 4x4. One COB per square foot. But I won't be building any more COB systems since the Samsung F Gen3 double row strips kick serious ass for less money. Figure that two FB24B strips equal four CXB3590s, and that you can run four strips on an HLG-600H-48A without expensive heat sinks and the numbers add up. More light, better penetration, and less money.
LB07
Well-Known Member
Exactly, if I had the cheddar at the time I would've gotten larger drivers. Rider I sent you a PM about strip lights. I need some help. I've been looking for your strips and can't find them, are only on alipoopoo?
Rider509
Well-Known Member
They're on Digikey, but you have to search for the specific part number. Digikey doesn't make it easy but they have the best price.
LB07
Well-Known Member
Can you pm the part #?
Grassmaster
Well-Known Member
I was just using the 1400mA for an example. You can also dim down the 1400 mA to whatever is required.
LB07
Well-Known Member
I know...
I'm not asking for help. I'm giving it. Saying they will handle a certain man that isn't accurate is misleading. 1400 isn't the only choice of driver people have. You can drive them a lot harder or softer than 1400.
I'm not asking for help. I'm giving it. Saying they will handle a certain man that isn't accurate is misleading. 1400 isn't the only choice of driver people have. You can drive them a lot harder or softer than 1400.
Grassmaster
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that link with the driver and COB matching table.
I'm just repeating what GROMAU5 instructed on his video. So the original poster that speaks another language can translate it.
Why would you want to overdrive a COB? Wouldn't you get less efficiency of light output and shorten the life of the COB?
Interlight
New Member
Hello,
You can refer below's information.
WHAT IS COB LED?
A Chip On Board LED Downlight consists of a single LED chip, mounted on the downlight, compared to an array of LED's like an SMD. As the single cluster of LED's is mounted in one point, they require greater cooling, so a larger heat sink, usually made of aluminium, must be mounted to dissipate the heat. As more material is required to manufacture a COB LED heat sink, this usually increases the cost slightly.
WHAT IS NORMAL LED (SMD: SURFACE MOUNT DIODE)?
SMDs are more efficient than COBs because the light source produces higher lumens per watt, which means that they produce more light with a lower wattage.
They produce a wider beam of light which is spread over a greater area. This means that less material is needed for the heat sink, which in turn means that they are more economical. The manufacturing procedure to make them is more expensive as the SMD diodes (LED chips) are machine printed on a PCB board. Most domestic downlights use SMD LED's. SMD downlights are covered with a frosted reflector which hides the LED chip array, and spreads the light evenly.
Difference between COB LED & NORMAL LED:
SMDs are covered up by an iced acrylic focal point. The face is typically greater. COBs faces are presented to demonstrate the one chip. As a rule, they are intended to look like customary dichroic halogen globes.
Hope this is useful...!!!
You can refer below's information.
WHAT IS COB LED?
A Chip On Board LED Downlight consists of a single LED chip, mounted on the downlight, compared to an array of LED's like an SMD. As the single cluster of LED's is mounted in one point, they require greater cooling, so a larger heat sink, usually made of aluminium, must be mounted to dissipate the heat. As more material is required to manufacture a COB LED heat sink, this usually increases the cost slightly.
WHAT IS NORMAL LED (SMD: SURFACE MOUNT DIODE)?
SMDs are more efficient than COBs because the light source produces higher lumens per watt, which means that they produce more light with a lower wattage.
They produce a wider beam of light which is spread over a greater area. This means that less material is needed for the heat sink, which in turn means that they are more economical. The manufacturing procedure to make them is more expensive as the SMD diodes (LED chips) are machine printed on a PCB board. Most domestic downlights use SMD LED's. SMD downlights are covered with a frosted reflector which hides the LED chip array, and spreads the light evenly.
Difference between COB LED & NORMAL LED:
SMDs are covered up by an iced acrylic focal point. The face is typically greater. COBs faces are presented to demonstrate the one chip. As a rule, they are intended to look like customary dichroic halogen globes.
Hope this is useful...!!!
- Thread starter
- #57
- Thread starter
- #58
what i did pick 1400 was because, lots if different youtube builders said that i was kind of the sweat spot. so if i have a tent that is 2x4 i just build according to the 4 feet since on LED can over one feet?
wow there is an even better alternative?! shit i need to learn so much! i almost feel sad i got my mars hydro LED...
But it is a first time for everything. Thanks for the feedback. I will investigate more in to the FB24B. Am just after a quality light. that is worth the cost of cash. I hate to pay for a "box" that looks amazing, yet there is a cheaper alternative you can do yourself. I have that kind of covered i have a guy that works for big electronic company here. So i can get good deals on "samples" ofc not everything there are limits. but some stuff.
SOG001
Well-Known Member
COB's are the Beast I'm growin 5 foot tall plants and the penetration is fantastic I have 600 watts of Vero 29's and 2 SS400's for a totasl of 1240 watts in a 6' x 4' grow space
Mountain Goat
Active Member
I am planning on building lights..........I am currently working on the specs (rightly or wrongly) on 4 x 4 footprint planning.....I go with totally "drenching" plants with light and look for penetration.......evenly spread, which to me means the cob(16) or the HB24B strips(1020mm x 10).....or a combination of the two....I look at PPFD between min 700 up to 1000....also rather use more fittings and run them softly.....700mA - 1050mA ....max 1400mA. i have seen so many cases where there is not enough "quality" light.
