Organic Fertilizer how long does it take to burn if it does?

[Aweedtec]

The reason I am asking this question is because it seems to another issue I cant find an answer for.

Such as, How long after you add organic fertilizer such as Dr Earth Bloom Booster, IF it were to burn your plant, how long after you add it would you know the answer to that question and what would you look for other than the obvious signs of yellowing and burn spots and tips.

I added 4 large tablespoons to my 5 gallon buckets on two plants thinking I was nutrient short because the plant had started turning light green (only the large plant) while the three other plants appeared to have yellowing only on the tips... they still were a nice dark green. But the big plant which did well all the way through veg while the others were having some slight issues that worked themselves out, is now lighter green and had some leaves that looked to have some nutrient burn on them. Very minor on those leaves so I pulled them because i didnt want to see the same leaves get worse and think the condition was worsening when it probably wasnt spreading to other leaves. Now I will know.

But because I want to add the bloom booster to the other plants, I would like to know when I would notice signs that I put too much fertilizer in the plants I did add it to. Now the plant looks like its darkening up a bit. But I fertilized it yesterday with a really good watering. It already greened up a bit. I am hoping I did it right. But if it starts having issues I just want to catch it quickly so I can flush it if needed

 

[Aweedtec]

Welp.. I found my answer. My plant got lighter green because it was due another feeding two weeks after and I didnt do that in veg.

But then I went right to bloom booster and according to Dr Earth there is another fert bag you should use for the first month after you flip the lights and I didnt buy that stuff because of listening to a friend who said Canuck used only Veg and Bloom. Somehow I'm not so sure of that. Maybe he used the Veg for the first 2 weeks after flipping the lights. That may be true. But he didnt only feed once and then wait till bloom and then feed once.

Every 2 weeks a 1/4 cup is the feeding schedule. So I am low on nutrients at this point.

 

[Th3Grow3rNooB]

I was under the impression that Organic Soil couldnt burn plants ? Unless its that crappy Fox Farms or whatever ? Good Organic amended soil only uses food when it needs it ? Correct me if im wrong someone Was looking into Organic grow somtime in the future !

 

[Absorber]

Why don't you start a journal and you can have everything in on place ,it also helps others looking for answers, you will get more traction rather that having 5 different threads .
You can put the link to your journal in your signature so people can see it wherever you make a comment gaining more traction

 

[SmokingWings]

I was under the impression that Organic Soil couldnt burn plants ? Unless its that crappy Fox Farms or whatever ? Good Organic amended soil only uses food when it needs it ?

It is the man made fertilizers, especially high nitrogen ones, that can burn plant roots and then leaves.

As for Fox Farms, they were among the leaders in providing growing products for Cannabis going back to the early or mid 1980s. When growers run into problems using Fox Farms soils and/or fertilizers the main cause seems to be those who do not follow the schedule. They cut the dose in half or they decide to skip weekly fertilizing and go on a new schedule or they decide not to buy the complete set of fertilizers and try to get by with one, often the wrong one at that.

On top of all that they keep the plant in a vegetative stage for twice as long as the schedule was designed for.Instead of 4 weeks they go with 8 or 10 as they grow and train for a larger plant with more bud sites. That in itself can be enough to throw off all the dosages.

We should not blame the company for what the grower does.

A related observation about Organic Soil burning plants. I grow in a soil of 50% organic composted materials with 50% peat & Perlite. Last year I deliberately kept adding "organic material" fertilizers at double doses or at a rate of twice as often as recommended. Within several weeks the plants slowed down and stopped growing. They did not burn as most of us figure burnt leaves or discolored leaves, they just stopped growing. They looked the same as before the overdosing, just no new growth to speak of.

 

[Keffka]

It is the man made fertilizers, especially high nitrogen ones, that can burn plant roots and then leaves.

As for Fox Farms, they were among the leaders in providing growing products for Cannabis going back to the early or mid 1980s. When growers run into problems using Fox Farms soils and/or fertilizers the main cause seems to be those who do not follow the schedule. They cut the dose in half or they decide to skip weekly fertilizing and go on a new schedule or they decide not to buy the complete set of fertilizers and try to get by with one, often the wrong one at that.

On top of all that they keep the plant in a vegetative stage for twice as long as the schedule was designed for.Instead of 4 weeks they go with 8 or 10 as they grow and train for a larger plant with more bud sites. That in itself can be enough to throw off all the dosages.

We should not blame the company for what the grower does.

A related observation about Organic Soil burning plants. I grow in a soil of 50% organic composted materials with 50% peat & Perlite. Last year I deliberately kept adding "organic material" fertilizers at double doses or at a rate of twice as often as recommended. Within several weeks the plants slowed down and stopped growing. They did not burn as most of us figure burnt leaves or discolored leaves, they just stopped growing. They looked the same as before the overdosing, just no new growth to speak of.

I use fox farms ocean forest as my base for my organic, mineralized soil and it’s perfect. Almost every complaint I’ve seen about fox farms can be traced directly to grower error.

As for burning plants.. some organic soils can burn a plant if they haven’t properly cooked or if the grower has used improper ratios. Again though, that’s grower error stuff. If done correctly, organic won’t burn, if it’s burning, look inward.

 

[Aweedtec]

Why don't you start a journal and you can have everything in on place ,it also helps others looking for answers, you will get more traction rather that having 5 different threads .
You can put the link to your journal in your signature so people can see it wherever you make a comment gaining more traction

I really wish I could do that. My problem at this time is I have so much work I cant think straight. A tree fell on the house of a friend of my fathers and I have been ripping the damage off and repairing this house. Along with that I have a shop where i am the only worker. When I started the house I had 2 small jobs and it slowed. Since then I have 15 jobs and some are large. Im the only person. So these plants not necessarily being WEEDS creates a ton of extra work and time for me in the middle of all this building.

If I could narrow it down the issue is.... I dont know how to make a journal or where to. At this point I am at flower stage so Id be journaling for another month and a half maybe?

I am thinking my plants issue may be that its just too wide for that bucket.

The other plants... though tall.... none of their branches extend past the bucket. But this plant, every branch that isnt a center branch extends past the bucket. Oddly those branches that extend the farthest past the bucket are thriving. Its only the center leaves on half the plant that have the most yellowing.

I bought some worm casting tea and some Cal Mag plus a filter.

I checked my PH with a PH stick for drinking water because I didnt trust the electronic tester and it tested between 6 and 6.4. So the PH is fine.

Right now at this moment... because I just flushed that plant I cant give it the Cal Mag. And its the brand which has a bit of Iron it it... which when I tested with these 16/1 strips it showed my water has ZERO Iron in it before filtering and after.

So this Cal Mag comes with Iron. I hope it helps but I cant even water the plant for another day.

 

[Absorber]

I dont know how to make a journal or where to.

Here is a link to the spot to start a journal and there's even a ""how to make a journal"" thread there .

Journals in Progress

420 member grow diaries detailing different styles and methods with lots of tips and tricks - browse through thousands of amazing plant photos

www.420magazine.com

A journal keeps everything in one place so people can follow what's going on easier and you are more likely to get help because it will be seen more .

 

[Aweedtec]

It is the man made fertilizers, especially high nitrogen ones, that can burn plant roots and then leaves.

As for Fox Farms, they were among the leaders in providing growing products for Cannabis going back to the early or mid 1980s. When growers run into problems using Fox Farms soils and/or fertilizers the main cause seems to be those who do not follow the schedule. They cut the dose in half or they decide to skip weekly fertilizing and go on a new schedule or they decide not to buy the complete set of fertilizers and try to get by with one, often the wrong one at that.

On top of all that they keep the plant in a vegetative stage for twice as long as the schedule was designed for.Instead of 4 weeks they go with 8 or 10 as they grow and train for a larger plant with more bud sites. That in itself can be enough to throw off all the dosages.

We should not blame the company for what the grower does.

A related observation about Organic Soil burning plants. I grow in a soil of 50% organic composted materials with 50% peat & Perlite. Last year I deliberately kept adding "organic material" fertilizers at double doses or at a rate of twice as often as recommended. Within several weeks the plants slowed down and stopped growing. They did not burn as most of us figure burnt leaves or discolored leaves, they just stopped growing. They looked the same as before the overdosing, just no new growth to speak of.

Just wanted to let you know... I tested my water with some test strips. just 16-1 strips for drinking water.

PH was perfect between 6 and 6.4. But, I also purchased a filter and whether I filtered the water or not the PH was between 6 and 6.4

So I can rule out a PH issue.

I am thinking its possibly an Iron issue. Because it seems to be mocking a lot of different deficiencies around the plant.

So Cal Mag with Iron may do the trick. Also I purchased some worm casting tea. I watered two plants in the basement with it today which needed to be watered. But the big plant is just not ready to be watered yet.

Lets say I treated 5 gallons of water with the worm casting tea and the CAL MAG with Iron as if it were 4 gallons only... Would this still be safe or should I water it down even more?

I believe the proper Cal Mag was 2ML per gallon and the Worm Casting Tea was 5ML/ Half Tsp per gallon for watering a plant already in soil.

I have about 2 gallons left after watering some plants in the basement with it... they are so healthy I figured i would like to see what it does before I try to water this plant. I also got some rooting hormone so I can clone this plant just in case.

I wont make the mistake of not including worm castings in with my pro mix and coco coir next time. I also wont make the mistake of planting directly into a 5 gallon bucket and will make sure it ends up in a 7 gallon felt planter by the end of veg.

 

[Aweedtec]

Here is a link to the spot to start a journal and there's even a ""how to make a journal"" thread there .

Journals in Progress

420 member grow diaries detailing different styles and methods with lots of tips and tricks - browse through thousands of amazing plant photos

www.420magazine.com

A journal keeps everything in one place so people can follow what's going on easier and you are more likely to get help because it will be seen more .

I get what you're saying. But at the moment I am reading how tos on not killing my plant. lol My other how to's are... Oh shit I'm late for a job and my customer is wondering where the subs are. Who I am in charge of making sure I know when they are coming and I myself need to be there. This plant is killing all my time that I have(which is definitely starting to cause issues.

I plant to clone these plants. When I do... I will surely create a journal. I appreciate the link too. Maybe I will read it on a break and figure it out. It cant be harder than rebuilding a house that got smashed by a tree.

 

[Roy Growin]

I believe the proper Cal Mag was 2ML per gallon and the Worm Casting Tea was 5ML/ Half Tsp per gallon for watering a plant already in soil.

Really? 2ml/Gal is less than 1ml/L - all of the CaMg I have used is 1ml - 2ml/L; 4-6ml [1 tsp] /Gal
A tsp is 5ml/5g so your half tsp is only 2.5ml/Gal
Sounds like your measurements might be slightly out?

 

[bluter]

if it comes out of a bag or a bottle it can burn your plant.

 

[bluter]

PH was perfect between 6 and 6.4. But, I also purchased a filter and whether I filtered the water or not the PH was between 6 and 6.4 So I can rule out a PH issue.

that depends on your media. you'll be fine if using a buffered soil type. you could be entirely screwed if using another media type.

 

[Keffka]

The reason I am asking this question is because it seems to another issue I cant find an answer for.

Such as, How long after you add organic fertilizer such as Dr Earth Bloom Booster, IF it were to burn your plant, how long after you add it would you know the answer to that question and what would you look for other than the obvious signs of yellowing and burn spots and tips.

I added 4 large tablespoons to my 5 gallon buckets on two plants thinking I was nutrient short because the plant had started turning light green (only the large plant) while the three other plants appeared to have yellowing only on the tips... they still were a nice dark green. But the big plant which did well all the way through veg while the others were having some slight issues that worked themselves out, is now lighter green and had some leaves that looked to have some nutrient burn on them. Very minor on those leaves so I pulled them because i didnt want to see the same leaves get worse and think the condition was worsening when it probably wasnt spreading to other leaves. Now I will know.

But because I want to add the bloom booster to the other plants, I would like to know when I would notice signs that I put too much fertilizer in the plants I did add it to. Now the plant looks like its darkening up a bit. But I fertilized it yesterday with a really good watering. It already greened up a bit. I am hoping I did it right. But if it starts having issues I just want to catch it quickly so I can flush it if needed

I’ll answer your original question directly since none of us actually did that

When using organic nutrient liquids you will see results within 24 hours. By 48 hours you’ll know you have an issue. When using dry amendments with organic acids you’ll see results in 24-48 hours. When using dry amendments without organic acids you’ll see results within 10-14 days.

“burning” a plant isn’t what growers typically do. They typically underfeed their plants because of a bunch of myths about feeding less than directed being safer. 9/10 times growers will have “burnt tips” and lime plants thinking they over fed when in reality they underfed and now the plant is taking nutrients from the leaves.

We can’t make many assessments without pictures but based on your descriptions it sounds like hungry plants

 

[Aweedtec]

that depends on your media. you'll be fine if using a buffered soil type. you could be entirely screwed if using another media type.

Using Pro mix with just a very minor amount of Miracle grow soil. I mean, miracle grow soil mixed with some compost was used to pop the seeds and it was in a solo cup full of compost (someone else made) mixed with miracle grow. Once it was ready to transplant we just went right to 5 gallon buckets. Promix all the way. Did not use Coco coir or worm castings like we should have. But the day we did the transplanting we couldn't find those anywhere in town and I just didnt have much time. So it got Dr Earth Veg mixed in with the Pro mix very well and that was it. That is the grow medium.

Ive watched videos and people saying they dont even pay attention to their PH. These are people growing in soil.
They did use a fish filter to oxygenate their water. But that was it. I let my water sit in a 5 gallon glass bottle for at least one day and most times 2 days.

The bottom line is I have 4 plants all in the same grow media. Only one is doing bad and its for no reason I can think of other than I missed one of the 2 weeks it was supposed to get Veg fert.

Now I have purchased Cal Mag, A filter for water to get rid of chlorine and other nonsense in the water... Also some worm casting tea and I am not certain if that will fix the plant... But if it doesnt, I think I will cut the bottom out of the 5 gallon bucket and let those roots have another fresh area to drain through. Like a 5 gallon felt pot filled up with 3/4 Pro mix. Just so when it drains it drains past the roots. Then I will know when the felt bag is dried out the roots at the bottom are not still soaked.

Humboldt said I should cycle through dry soil and moist soil if I think I have a root problem. Also I should defoliate.
And I left them a lot of info. I bang my head against the wall. Not literally. lol

 

[Aweedtec]

I believe the proper Cal Mag was 2ML per gallon and the Worm Casting Tea was 5ML/ Half Tsp per gallon for watering a plant already in soil.

Really? 2ml/Gal is less than 1ml/L - all of the CaMg I have used is 1ml - 2ml/L; 4-6ml [1 tsp] /Gal
A tsp is 5ml/5g so your half tsp is only 2.5ml/Gal
Sounds like your measurements might be slightly out?

This is the chart on the Cal Mag I purchased. TPS Nutrients.

 

[Aweedtec]

I’ll answer your original question directly since none of us actually did that

When using organic nutrient liquids you will see results within 24 hours. By 48 hours you’ll know you have an issue. When using dry amendments with organic acids you’ll see results in 24-48 hours. When using dry amendments without organic acids you’ll see results within 10-14 days.

“burning” a plant isn’t what growers typically do. They typically underfeed their plants because of a bunch of myths about feeding less than directed being safer. 9/10 times growers will have “burnt tips” and lime plants thinking they over fed when in reality they underfed and now the plant is taking nutrients from the leaves.

We can’t make many assessments without pictures but based on your descriptions it sounds like hungry plants

I guess that is where a journal would have come in handy. I still have yet to read up on that and start one.

So here you go.

The browned looking edges, those leaves are not hard or crunchy anywhere. I dont know what strain this is so maybe its supposed to do that and if it were green you may not notice it. But its not crispy around those colored edges. It feels like a normal leaf.

The plant shows multiple deficient leaves. But mostly right under the top flower site its dark green. Now that flower is filling in it is multiplying very dark green leaves.

I did not defoliate this plant. Could it be as simple as the leaves are turning yellow because its been 62 to 64 degrees in my closet and in my bedroom because my bedroom doesn't have enough vents until I actually fix it? My house is set on 70. Usually I stay at 68. But 62 in my room means I just went out and purchased a space heater because that is just too cold.
Maybe this thing thinks its autumn inside and is just dropping leaves?
HOWEVER, During the veg stage I completely missed a veg cycle and it got Dr Earth veg ONCE in a month when it should have gotten it at the 2 week mark. Then the lights were flipped and it was given Bloom Booster(dr earth). 1/4 cup like Dr Earth called for. Things were looking better but not "Fixed" completely and once the flower production started coming along nicely I gave it another feed 2 weeks later as stated in dr earths directions for 5 gallon bucket plants. All the flower cites (when small) turned dark green... But all the bottom branches were all dark green... but the leaves right under those leaves all started yellowing. Again, if I take a photo of the actual flower growth under those yellow leaves... They are very dark green. I mean the multiplication of leaves which occur between flower nodes as they start to fill in.

So maybe its much to do about nothing because I didnt defoliate this plant?


I will know if that Cal Mag and Worm Casting Tea I watered with yesterday will do it any good.

The plant sucks water down. 2 and a half gallons every 2 to 3 days.

One of the full plant photos shows that one side is greener than the other. Also the greener side is taller.
The yellower side is shorter. Just by a bit. But none of the flower appear to be suffering at this point.

I can certainly feed it again.

 

[Aweedtec]

I’ll answer your original question directly since none of us actually did that

When using organic nutrient liquids you will see results within 24 hours. By 48 hours you’ll know you have an issue. When using dry amendments with organic acids you’ll see results in 24-48 hours. When using dry amendments without organic acids you’ll see results within 10-14 days.

“burning” a plant isn’t what growers typically do. They typically underfeed their plants because of a bunch of myths about feeding less than directed being safer. 9/10 times growers will have “burnt tips” and lime plants thinking they over fed when in reality they underfed and now the plant is taking nutrients from the leaves.

We can’t make many assessments without pictures but based on your descriptions it sounds like hungry plants

Wanted to give you one more photo.... This is one shot of a flower site, Most are doing fine in this way.

Maybe Humboldt is right and I should just defoliate the yellow leaves. See what happens next. lol

 

[SmokingWings]

Using Pro mix with just a very minor amount of Miracle grow soil.

For the most part it is not a major point at this time in the grow but Pro-Mix makes about 20 different blends of 'soil' and most of them are peat moss based and often with various additives being the difference. Eventually growers either mix in their own additives or combine one type of "bagged soil" with something from someone else.

I figure you should be able to relate. Sort of like going to the supply warehouse and seeing several different boxes of nails all being the same size but each box is best for different circumstances; some for rough carpentry and some for finish, some for indoors and some for outdoor use.

 

[Aweedtec]

For the most part it is not a major point at this time in the grow but Pro-Mix makes about 20 different blends of 'soil' and most of them are peat moss based and often with various additives being the difference. Eventually growers either mix in their own additives or combine one type of "bagged soil" with something from someone else.

I figure you should be able to relate. Sort of like going to the supply warehouse and seeing several different boxes of nails all being the same size but each box is best for different circumstances; some for rough carpentry and some for finish, some for indoors and some for outdoor use.

I used the Red Bag which holds 2 Cubic feet in each bag from Home Depot. Its the only Pro Mix they carry.

PRO-MIX 2 cu. ft. Premium Moisture Potting Mix Compressed Soil 0306RG - The Home Depot

Growing beautiful, healthy plants is every gardener's goal. Make sure you achieve the best possible results with PRO-MIX Moisture Potting Mix, a high-quality, ready-to-use blend containing sphagnum peat

www.homedepot.com