Osmocote Plus Plant Food: Discuss Its Use With Cannabis Here!

[lbezphil2005]

I've been here awhile, and you are one of the few idiots...maybe one of three....that I've run across.

First of all, your ignorance of the product is hampering your otherwise substandard congnitive abilities even more than usual:

Osmocote prills NEVER dissolve. They aren't supposed to. They are resin coated prills that allow the fertilizers to release slowly, over time.

Secondly, you don't "lose control" over your medium. In fact, you have far more control with CRF's than with chemical nutes, because the PPM and EC stays steady at all times---given a decent growing environment---when the plant needs more, more is released....but the PPM's never get over about 300. You never over or under feed.

I did a side by side grow with AN Connoisseur and additives vs Osmocote+.
It's in the Un-Lucky Queen journal. The Osmocote kicked the crap out of the AN. I stopped using the AN and if you want 2 gallons of Can-o-sewer, a gallon of BigBud and a bunch of other crap for free, you can come get it.

The difference in cost is a joke.....with the AN stuff coming in at over 1000 dollars, compared to 20 bucks for the OC+.

People on this forum have smoked some of my OC+ weed and have very favorable things to say about it. No flush needed, nothing but good taste and clean, white ash.

Regarding organics....I'm in 100% custom blended organic soil right now. IMO it's the best way to grow if taste and the broadest spectrum of terpenes is your goal. If I have to supplement down the line, it will be with OC+, because I don't want to disturb the soil web or effect the taste in a negative way.

But I think you should continue to use AN. Give your money to Big Mike so you can feed your plants cheap chemicals with fancy names. Oh, and make sure you flush! If you don't, all the over feeding will make your product taste like crap.

As for me, I'll stick with what sane, educated people do when they grow plants. Cannabis specific nutes are a rip-off. If you can't understand that, you're simply not meant to.

Some people simply don't have the capacity to understand....they merely cling to the first thing they learned as "the truth."

So, do your experiment and make sure to journal it with pictures. Keep track of the costs too. If you're honest, you'll see what we're talking about.

Until then, have respectful discussion borne out of knowledge......or.....


STFU.

Well put, DocBud. +reps to you, Irishboy, Setting Sun and Blue Dog! Keep up the good work. I think it's bang your head against the wall when it comes to this bonehead, though. You can tell by the way he answers, no respect, no nada. Later bros!!

 

[molotov]

here's some info:

Rooted Young Plants 1/4 tsp grow, 1/4 tsp bloom
Growth 1 to 1-1/4 tsp grow
Aggressive Growth 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 tsp grow
Early Flower 1/2 tsp. grow, 1/2 tsp bloom
mid flowering 1/2 tsp grow, 1 tsp. bloom
Late Flowering 0-1/2 tsp grow, 1 to 1-1/2 tsp bloom
(optional) Ripening 1/2 to 1 tsp bloom, 1/4 to 1/2 tsp liquid Kool Bloom


"DO I USE MAXIGROW AND MAXIBLOOM AT THE SAME TIME?

Answer: Yes and no. The Maxi series is designed to use one part at a time, but in a time of transition it may be beneficial to mix the two at half strength each (makes a full strength nutrient solution). Use MaxiGro in the vegetative stage and MaxiBloom in the fruiting/flowering stage.
Note: If your plant is not fruiting or flowering plant, MaxiGro is all that you will need to use."


You do need to add mag to these nutes, so I use Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus, which has magnesium, calcium, and 2% nitrogen.

This may add enough N to the MaxiBloom to allow me to use it alone from beginning to end, although adding in a small amount of MaxiGrow would be very easy if necessary.

That was a bowlful of the OC+ grown PPP that I recently harvested.

Burns very clean and tastes very good.

No flushing.

Thanks for the reply. I do have the oc+ and just wanted to have the GH nutes on hand if necessary.

 

[placerville]

Well put, DocBud. +reps to you, Irishboy, Setting Sun and Blue Dog! Keep up the good work. I think it's bang your head against the wall when it comes to this bonehead, though. You can tell by the way he answers, no respect, no nada. Later bros!!

This day and age, with all the informational resourses available, people are still so easily convienced that they have to spend mega $$ to go pot. A friend of mine had to get rid of 4 plants (2 feet tall, 6" pots, staked and tied so tightly it enveloped the string at the base. I could only take 2 and the other went to a Dutch Masters grower. Both raised indoor and mine with the OC+ blasted my friends in EVERY way, size, trics, colas especially after being so abused. Sorry no pictures.

 

[jebfx]

Hello! Im am so happy I found out about Osmocote+ before i start off with hempyes in perlite or 80%perlite/20%vermiculite mix. I havent decided so please feel free to have a input.

I checked out the water report from my city, it says pH about 7,50-7,85 and alkaline 0,85-1 mmol/l . I guess this is total alkaline with both calsium and magnesium.
I found a conversion formula:

If we looked a CaCO3 at .1 mmol

40 Ca + 12 C + (16 O x 3 ) = 100

.1 mmol for CaCO3 x 100 = 10 ppm CaCO3

Then I guess I have about 85-100 ppm ?
This is too high I guess. I know the water in this city has been added extra calsium the last 2 years but they will stop doing this in about a month. But I guess that there will still be a higher buffer in the water for a while after that.

What should I do to lower this ppm? Is there any cheap way to do this?

Thank you.

BTW: I know some people use sulfuric acid (you can get battery acid for about 2$) to lower the pH.
Will this lower the alkalinity as well?

 

[HempRocket]

Best way to lower your TDS (total dissolved solids) is by mixing your tap water with R/O water. You can get R/O water at the store for pretty cheap or you can invest in a R/O system like I did. I mix about 3/4 R/O water to 1/4 tap water.

Best way to lower pH is with pH Down. You can pick it up at any hydro store. I even saw it at some Home DePot stores. Hope this helps.

 

[Silent Bob]

Hello! Im am so happy I found out about Osmocote+ before i start off with hempyes in perlite or 80%perlite/20%vermiculite mix. I havent decided so please feel free to have a input.

I checked out the water report from my city, it says pH about 7,50-7,85 and alkaline 0,85-1 mmol/l . I guess this is total alkaline with both calsium and magnesium.
I found a conversion formula:



Then I guess I have about 85-100 ppm ?
This is too high I guess. I know the water in this city has been added extra calsium the last 2 years but they will stop doing this in about a month. But I guess that there will still be a higher buffer in the water for a while after that.

What should I do to lower this ppm? Is there any cheap way to do this?

Thank you.

BTW: I know some people use sulfuric acid (you can get battery acid for about 2$) to lower the pH.
Will this lower the alkalinity as well?

You really should be fine with that PPM - if the Cal is high, just add some epsom salts to counter act the binding effect with mag.

 

[placerville]

Best way to lower pH is with pH Down. You can pick it up at any hydro store. I even saw it at some Home DePot stores.

A cheaper way to lower ph is white vinegar. Is there something cheap to raise ph?

 

[jebfx]

Best way to lower pH is with pH Down. You can pick it up at any hydro store. I even saw it at some Home DePot stores.

I guess you are right, as you use so little each time. But the pH- from hydros in general use phosphoric acid to reduce the pH. I think sulfuric acid does the same trick and battery acid contains about 50% sulfuric acid and 50% water.
I will do a little research but I know some people use this with good results.
Here is a link to a discussion with the use of sulfuric acid

A cheaper way to lower ph is white vinegar. Is there something cheap to raise ph?

You can use natrium bicarbonate as pH+. But this has some other specs so its not the best alternative. Be carefull if you gonna use it in soil/coco.

Best way to lower your TDS (total dissolved solids) is by mixing your tap water with R/O water. You can get R/O water at the store for pretty cheap or you can invest in a R/O system like I did. I mix about 3/4 R/O water to 1/4 tap water.

I guess this would be the best option, but I want to get around RO at this point and are looking for other alternatives. But i agree with you that your way is the safest.

You really should be fine with that PPM - if the Cal is high, just add some epsom salts to counter act the binding effect with mag.

Ok, so you don't think it is to high? I read the article posted earlier in this thread, they mentioned that a 30-60ppm is optimum. But I take you for your word What dosage of epsom salt would you recommend? For like 10L water?

Thanks guys.

 

[Silent Bob]

Ok, so you don't think it is to high? I read the article posted earlier in this thread, they mentioned that a 30-60ppm is optimum. But I take you for your word What dosage of epsom salt would you recommend? For like 10L water?

Thanks guys.

Yes, it's nice to use R/O water... but I know growers who have great results with even higher PPMs of tap.

I would not add anything until you see a deficiency - I'd just be prepared if you have high Cal since it can cause a mag. def.

As far as dose... 1/4 tsp per gallon to treat. Some people say 1 tsp per gallon - I think that's too much.

 

[jebfx]

Yes, it's nice to use R/O water... but I know growers who have great results with even higher PPMs of tap.

I would not add anything until you see a deficiency - I'd just be prepared if you have high Cal since it can cause a mag. def.

As far as dose... 1/4 tsp per gallon to treat. Some people say 1 tsp per gallon - I think that's too much.

Ok thank you man. Then I be using my tap water, and hopefully when the city stops adding extra Cal in the water the ppm will drop and I dont need to to anything about the water. But I'll be sure to have som epsom salt just in case!

 

[hogs]

So you guys are using Osmocote Plus and just going with that for the whole Veg./Bloom And some add a little Bloom food as well thats it???

 

[NCDude]

hogs...again, I'm no expert but yes OC+ for the whole cycle...works good for me, no over feeding, it's cheap, and you can find it at Home Depot, Lowes even Walmart. The prices in the hydro stores for nuits is insulting....

Some molasses....I do use Hydroplex....there are lots more experienced growers them I on this site....

 

[AcesFull]

Great thread! I am a bit slow though. I want to pull the trigger and start a hempy grow with OC+, but I don't understand a couple things. I've been all through the thread so if it's here, well, I'm a bit slow.

I'm going to use straight perlite in the hempy buckets.

Do I add the correct amount of OC+ (what's the correct amount?)(2.5g buckets) and mix it in with the perlite?

And then I'm done? For the whole grow? Never add it again?

Next question. I saw someone talk about mothers earlier in the thread. This relates to the question above I guess. If I add the OC+ (again, hempy, perlite, 2.5g buckets), then how long before I need to add more assuming the mothers will have an extra long 'veg time' before I decide to send them to flower. Say 3 months, 6 months, good mothers I suppose I could keep in the mother room indefinitely.

Thanks for this thread and the help.

 

[Doc Bud]

AcesFull:

Yes, you can just use OC+ for the whole grow and you'll do just fine. However, it is my opinion (and experience) that if you know what you're doing, you can enhance the OC+ a bit by using products like Hygrozyme (keeps root zone clean, etc.) and Snowstorm (enhances resin formation, etc.)

You should also keep a micronutrient source on hand to deal with the occasional deficiency that may crop up when using soiless mediums. Ironite is a good one, and there are others.

The problems that seem to come up once in a while with OC+ are iron and zinc deficiencies, which are easily cleared up with Ironite or Liquinox.....both available at hardware stores, Lowes, Home dePot, etc.

I believe OC+ lasts for 9 months in soil....in a hempy bucket I think it lasts about 4-5 months.

How much to add? 1.5 to 3 tbsp per gallon. You really can't over feed.

Oh, make sure you can control your temps....high temps make the release rate higher which you may not want!

Don't worry about flushing....there is no need, the buds burn clean and taste great. But if you did want to flush, you can do so by lowering your temps for the last couple weeks.....72 during lights on, 65 during lights off. That will pretty much starve the plant. I don't think it's necessary, but fun to experiment and also get things to purple up.

 

[ganjasism]

Hey guys if you are even close to thinking about using OC+ and hempies; I strongly suggest that you read through Doc's journals. A wealth of great info on both.

 

[Barry Manilow]

Hello! Im am so happy I found out about Osmocote+ before i start off with hempyes in perlite or 80%perlite/20%vermiculite mix. I havent decided so please feel free to have a input.

I checked out the water report from my city, it says pH about 7,50-7,85 and alkaline 0,85-1 mmol/l . I guess this is total alkaline with both calsium and magnesium.
I found a conversion formula:



Then I guess I have about 85-100 ppm ?
This is too high I guess. I know the water in this city has been added extra calsium the last 2 years but they will stop doing this in about a month. But I guess that there will still be a higher buffer in the water for a while after that.

What should I do to lower this ppm? Is there any cheap way to do this?

Thank you.

BTW: I know some people use sulfuric acid (you can get battery acid for about 2$) to lower the pH.
Will this lower the alkalinity as well?

Best way to lower your TDS (total dissolved solids) is by mixing your tap water with R/O water. You can get R/O water at the store for pretty cheap or you can invest in a R/O system like I did. I mix about 3/4 R/O water to 1/4 tap water.

Best way to lower pH is with pH Down. You can pick it up at any hydro store. I even saw it at some Home DePot stores. Hope this helps.

Just a few comments - my last grow was perlite only and examining the root balls they filled the entire container including the upper zone. Therefore I'm not going to use vermiculite... it's dangerous to inhale and it's used for better water retention to expand the root zone to the top of the bucket, but I got the same results without it.

BTW I can't think that Perlite is very good to inhale either so rinse or sift it in a safe environment to get rid of as much dust as possible.

I get my ph down from petsmart and it's a dilute sulphuric acid solution, so if you know what you're doing there would be no problems buying it at autozone or wherever.

I agree with Silent Bob too... 100 TA is borderline but should be ok, if you're worried cut it 20% with distilled water and you'll be perfect. What you're worried about is a build up of salts over time due to high TA, which PH'ing down will not affect in any way.

 

[Doc Bud]

I love the advice I'm seeing on this thread!

It seems that some growers have broken through the hype and misinformation and are thinking scientifically! I love it!

This will only help our hobby and increase the quality of our medicine. Soon, the nute companies will take note and start producing products that appeal to educated growers...

Awesome!

 

[Hash Hound]

Went to the hydro store yesterday to buy a decent low priced supplemental nute and Snow Storm. I knew not to listen to the hype the sales man was giving the more expensive nutes, but my friend is more of a; bigger is better, and the more expensive it is, the better it is thinking. I had to keep telling him remember what the "Doctor says". He would have bought Humboldt Countys Dutch Glory for like over $350!!!.

I was prepared to buy Dyna Grow Bloom or Botinacare Bloom for under $20 just for supplementing the OC+/DMred if needed. Instead he talked my friend into Humboldts Ginormous 0-18-16 for $30. He was paying, so I didn't argue. (also got the Snow Storm).

Has anyone used Ginormous? Pros? Cons? Advice?

If you check my latest journal, you can see the plants are doing great and we don't wanna screw them up.

 

[ganjasism]

I love the advice I'm seeing on this thread!

It seems that some growers have broken through the hype and misinformation and are thinking scientifically! I love it!

This will only help our hobby and increase the quality of our medicine. Soon, the nute companies will take note and start producing products that appeal to educated growers...

Awesome!

This is how Revolutions get started Doc!
See what you've done! You should be proud.

 

[Julie Gardener]

Nice thread! Now I'm just wondering where do all the empty undissolved prills go lol Seems you can't beat OC+ as an easy back up CRF. I appreciate all of you who are experimenting...

-rv