The Mega Crop Thread

[Emilya Green]

Wow emmy. how the hell do you do it . You always go to the total explanation and leave me with no further questions as if you pre empt them coming.???
lol. Thank you for another brilliant, complicated but amazingly well explained answer. jetting is a good term too , instantly got it and the context. brilliant. I denise amendments for charging and a biosys tea with lots of bennies in and a top dress with their total reset product called life cycle that can also is used as a booster so I think I am all good on the life. On the PK front , the producer of the soil advises not using pk products at all in their information on the soil and indid wonder why that was. With your comment on potential use , i do wonder if I could add a mild dose of the shogun pk warrior 9/18. it stinks like an egg box with the sulphur in it but it is good in coco and designed for using throughout the flowering cycle and not just a 1 week hit of it.?.

I would be very cautious adding anything outside of the GLN product suite to these grows as each of these extra products, SC, BE, SK all are carefully formulated so as to not add to the available load of nutrients that might accumulate in the soil and they even provide a special feeding calculator to help you use these add ons without harm along with the MC. There is sulfur in the MC suite and I see no reason to think that more needs to be added, but if you are convinced that the expensive shogun product is worth using, then by all means try it.... but just be careful, and every time you pour out a tablespoon of that liquid gold, keep in mind that there was a cheaper way provided by GLN.
If I were you I would continue on with the LOS grow, supplementing it as you go with the products you have on hand. See how far you can go with that method and then to get a true feeling of the power of the GLN products, run them exclusively next time while also letting your microbe population go inert in that soil. This will not ruin the soil, and if you wish to go back to traditional organic after that, all you have to do is recharge the microbes and go... you will not have depleted anything in that soil. Also keep in mind that the warnings with that soil not to use pk products is so that the feeding cycle doesn't get out of balance, but it actually doesn't harm the soil... it just upsets the natural balance of the microbes and can stop the feeding cycle for that run. Once the feeding cycle is interrupted and you are committed to using MC, the soil really doesn't care... but you won't be able to totally use both systems together as successfully as by using either one alone.

 

[Old Salt]

Skills learned as an associate professor of economics a few years back... always keep 2 steps ahead of the very smart class.

I always learned more by teaching the course, than as a student on the course for that reason.

 

[JimSaskFarmer]

No email back yet don't really expect one till next week but I did look on the CDFA fertilizer listing page "Green Leaf Nutrients" is not listed on there. They are a Californa based company and it is my understanding that in order to be sold in CA fertilizers must be registered through the CDFA which involves lab testing for heavy metals. I am no stranger to government bureaucracy so that is not an magor red flag for me at this point but....

 

[Emilya Green]

I always learned more by teaching the course, than as a student on the course for that reason.

This is one of the reasons that someone on a doctoral pursuit is expected to work alongside with a professor, learning to be able to teach some of their classes for them. I found this to be very enjoyable and I almost stayed in academia because of it, and may indeed someday go back.

 

[Emilya Green]

No email back yet don't really expect one till next week but I did look on the CDFA fertilizer listing page "Green Leaf Nutrients" is not listed on there. They are a Californa based company and it is my understanding that in order to be sold in CA fertilizers must be registered through the CDFA which involves lab testing for heavy metals. I am no stranger to government bureaucracy so that is not an magor red flag for me at this point but....

Jim, I am not sure what you are trying to get at, but please put your red flag away. GLN clearly answers your question directly in their FAQ section on their website. Not only do they answer the question and show that they test 3 different ways, but they also show the completed and signed independent lab report for all to see.
Maybe the problem is that they will not be listed as a traditional fertilizer on the CDFA list since this really is something completely new and not in the traditional class of fertilizers. Please rest assured that according to what they have published, MC has been tested for heavy metals.
Testing for Arsenic, Cadmium, Cobalt, Copper, Molybdenum, Nickel, Lead, Selenium, Mercury and more are standard. Products exceed organic level certification requirements.

 

[JimSaskFarmer]

Jim, I am not sure what you are trying to get at, but please put your red flag away. GLN clearly answers your question directly in their FAQ section on their website. Not only do they answer the question and show that they test 3 different ways, but they also show the completed and signed independent lab report for all to see.
Maybe the problem is that they will not be listed as a traditional fertilizer on the CDFA list since this really is something completely new and not in the traditional class of fertilizers. Please rest assured that according to what they have published, MC has been tested for heavy metals.
Testing for Arsenic, Cadmium, Cobalt, Copper, Molybdenum, Nickel, Lead, Selenium, Mercury and more are standard. Products exceed organic level certification requirements.

Have you taken a close look at that report? please see my previous post regarding it

 

[JimSaskFarmer]

As i alluded to my red flag is still tucked in my pocket for now just trying to get some facts

 

[10gal]

As i alluded to my red flag is still tucked in my pocket for now just trying to get some facts

*face palms*

 

[Emilya Green]

As i alluded to my red flag is still tucked in my pocket for now just trying to get some facts

As I would do if it were my company, only a portion of a couple of actual official documents are published on the web, but since this is public information you are free to contact the testing lab in Georgia or as you have done already, the company itself, and you can verify that these tests are legit. Someone at GLN anticipated someone like you coming along and the one piece of corroborating evidence they provided was the signature of the lab technician who did the test. This apparently is not good enough for some people, and I get that, and I am sure they will be happy to send you a packet of the official information that you seem to require, so as to get your facts straight. In the meantime you have been able to sow doubt and questions among the Megacroppers, and are under no obligation to come back and tell us that your "fears" were unfounded.
I just don't understand why you are on this thread grousing before you have any idea if your allegations are correct, and without facts you are essentially calling them out as not being truthful. While it may be perfectly ok to have these feelings privately, many of us would appreciate you gathering a few more facts before asserting publically that the things we are reading on their website may be lies.

 

[JimSaskFarmer]

As I would do if it were my company, only a portion of a couple of actual official documents are published on the web, but since this is public information you are free to contact the testing lab in Georgia or as you have done already, the company itself, and you can verify that these tests are legit. Someone at GLN anticipated someone like you coming along and the one piece of corroborating evidence they provided was the signature of the lab technician who did the test. This apparently is not good enough for some people, and I get that, and I am sure they will be happy to send you a packet of the official information that you seem to require, so as to get your facts straight. In the meantime you have been able to sow doubt and questions among the Megacroppers, and are under no obligation to come back and tell us that your "fears" were unfounded.
I just don't understand why you are on this thread grousing before you have any idea if your allegations are correct, and without facts you are essentially calling them out as not being truthful. While it may be perfectly ok to have these feelings privately, many of us would appreciate you gathering a few more facts before asserting publically that the things we are reading on their website may be lies.

Interesting take on it. Food for thought

 

[multiVortex]

heya friends,, great read, indeed,, not all the chit chat but all the mega crop info,, ha

i am very close to pulling the switch and converting to mega crop. gotta order it i guess,

for use in hempy, like many here, and hope to improve the problem i have with yellowing leaves,, i am beginning to think my g hydroponics nutes are old and evil

so,, try something new,, and i like what i see here,, tho,, one thing

folks switch to mega crop cuz it's one stop ferting,, but then quickly add on other additives to complicate the process all over again,, funny is all,,

cheers friends,, chat soon for more info,,

I'm using it in promix, RDWC, and now a hempy as well. So far, so good.

I agree it's kind of funny that a good few of us are adding in additional things. However, it is by no means any type of requirement or necessary. Myself, I'm adding in a little silica. Due to that, I'm also adding in calmag to keep the N->K ratio correct. Not because MC needs it, but like some others I like a little heavier silica for a few reasons.

On its own, MC is a very capable AIO fertilizer. However, as growers... we all like to tinker.

Hell, I'm running a whole tent just to "tinker" with stuff.

done,, ordered,,

10 kg should last forever,, ha

thx friends

I did the math when I ordered, and that bag would last me about 65 weeks +/- in my 50gal RDWC with weekly changes.

Of course I won't get that in calendar time, as I'm also using it in my promix grow, and will also use it for the hempy I have too. However, it was about $80 USD shipped, and works out to about $20/grow. I can very easily live with that.

 

[SauronBlue]

It's taken me a little while to catch up, but I read from page 90, on. I'm jealous of many of the grows I see here. I've been in Fox Farms Ocean Fields soil in airpots. I'm running my main grow in a 39"x39" tent for now, with 2 plants that I recently upped from 1.5 to 5gal pots. I started with a T5, then 600w MH, now it's an HLG 550-R 480w quantum board, with a full spectrum plus red. I started with tap water that came out at about 240ppm/7.6ph , but switched to RO at 10ppm/6.95 2 feeds ago. My temps have been between 60° and 80° at max, usually much less of a swing, closer to the 70° point. If one day is much warmer or cooler, it may take a few hours before I notice and adjust, that accounts for most of the swing. Humidity is naturally about 35%, so I humidify up to about 60% at max, but it quickly drops down when it runs dry at times, then takes a few hours to get back up. This has fluctuated much more than the temps.

I've used nothing but MC since seeds popped, and I've been having issues getting my leaves to look deep green and healthy lately. For about 2 weeks weeks, I've noticed one plant with stress symptoms on the leaves, but the other plant was fine. Recently, the 2nd plant started showing similar issues, and both plants developed harder, darker lower leaves, some of which then developed rusty spots and yellowed, then browned. I switched to RO, added a bit of cal-mag once, then just added a full (per the label) dose of cal-mag to the latest feed, last night.

Right now, my feed is 6g of MC per gal of RO water, plus 3.5ml of cal mag. I might have to ph up a bit to get to 6.3, and my ppm is about 850. I feel that the times when the rh got down for a while, the leaf symptoms got worse, so I think that points to the water it's sucking up and transpiring. I gave it this feed yesterday, which was a bit soon, but I felt they could take it.



1)

2)

3)

4)

5)



1) Here, my plant2 is showing burnt edges on day 34
2) Day 35, there are rusty spots on the leaves, and yellowing
3) Day 38, and you can see P2 on the left has issues that P1 on the right doesn't
4) Spots on P1 a day after the transplant
I switched from 600w MH to 480 quantum board later on, the same day as I noticed the leaf issues on P1
5) Further progression over the next 2 days, while switching to RO, and adding a bit of c/m

I really want to have healthy, green growth, while I have time to focus and deal with issues. In the past I was so busy that I just did what I could, and ignored what I couldn't, but I feel like I'm getting the same results. I really didn't enjoy what I grew before, and I'm hoping to improve on that. It's not worth it to me to invest so much time, effort and money, if I still have to buy bud from other places for my own use. I'm treating this like a cal/mag deficiency so far, but I'm not seeing a big turnaround in the past 9 days, since trying to fix it. Any and all are welcome and urged to take a look at my current grow for more pics and details, and any input or advice is appreciated.

 

[SauronBlue]

If you have the Shogun PK Warrior (9 P, 18 K), and want to play with something around a 13 Ratio, use can use up to 3ml of it per gallon. Assuming you're doing 6g Mega, 5ml Cal-Mag, 5ml Silica, then the PK Warrior. Math still works if you're only using 5g of Mega instead of 6.

PKWarrior.jpg

• farside05
• Dec 22, 2019

I’m curious how you got this result (1-1-3). For inputs, I used ProteKt instead of Faux-tekt, and couldn’t find the weight for a 1 liter PK Warrior (to calculate density), but I get something closer to 2-1-5 for 6g MC, 5ml CalMag+, 5ml ProteKt, and 3ml PK per gallon.

Where would you recommend I look to get an understanding of all of this, from what ratios for which stage, to the formulas for the actual nute load vs the label ratios? All I know (or think I know) is that you want lots of N for veg, and a bit extra phos for bloom.

 

[Emilya Green]

Still all fine here at Emmie's garden.... MC at 4.5g going into Transition... still no pH adjusting or filtering of my tap water. Using MC, SC, SK and now BE, with zero negative effects. I am trying to achieve tip burn, but still have not gotten there... the plants are just growing too fast for me to be able to get ahead of them.

 

[InTheShed]

MC at 4.5g going into Transition.

By keeping the MC low and using boosters to maintain your NPK ratio, are you worried about missing out on all of the micronutrients that MC provides at the correct dose for flowering (which is 6.0-6.5 g/gal)?

 

[nivek]

y'all are making this seem so complicated,, think i will do 'mega crop lite' for a while to learn.

but,, package shipped, be here monday,,

i will be using the 'weigh' method so i need clean up me scale. i have nothing to calibrate my scale with,, hmmm, i bet i can find out exactly how much coins weigh these days,, gonna check that out

i ditched my general hydro nutes for a watering today, and went back to good ole 'miracle grow' for one feeding just to see if i can see any affect on the yellowing leaves i have a problem with.

great fun friends,, thanks @bluter for turning me on to this stuff,, i am still having the baby hempy issues,, gonna re read your stuff,, cheers

oh,, btw,, easy to find out how much a coin weighs,, a canadian quarter weighs 4.4 grams, etc,, ha

now i just gotta find a quarter,, ha

 

[nivek]

so, i am thinkin, again,, oops,,

different amounts of mega crop required for different stages of growth,, many different stages of growth equals many different required amounts of mega crop fert per watering cycle

so, i am thinking y'all or some of y'all have many different stages of growth at any one time so i am again thinkin y'all have a technique for dealing with this issue.

such as,, starting with a batch at full strength and then diluting down for the youngers and diluting even further for the wee ones

ant thots or ideas to assist me??

thanks heaps in advance for the assistance,, most appreciated

 

[InTheShed]

starting with a batch at full strength and then diluting down for the youngers and diluting even further for the wee ones

This is exactly what I do. Mix at the highest dose and cut it with water for the smaller and smaller ones.

 

[FelipeBlu]

Where would you recommend I look to get an understanding of all of this, from what ratios for which stage, to the formulas for the actual nute load vs the label ratios? All I know (or think I know) is that you want lots of N for veg, and a bit extra phos for bloom.

There are loads of references, but you can start HERE

 

[Old Salt]

I try keep all the plants in one tent at the same stage of growth. Currently both tents are at the same stage and are being fed the same solution three times per day by an automatic watering system.

After this grow, one tent will be for seedlings and veg, the other for flowering. I'll have a separate automatic watering system for the the plants in veg and flower, each running off of a 5 gallon bucket. I'll hand water the seedlings, probably by robbing one of the other buckets, and diluting it. I only mix a liter at a time for my seedlings.

This works because GLN has stated that the nutrients will last weeks or months after being mixed.