SpaceGhost
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subbed 
UG's Paradise
- Thread starter UrbanGrower
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UrbanGrower
New Member
props man, i hella appreciate your presence.
i'll take some photos of my actual basement today, and try to come up with a final plan for the stuff I've ordered/own
i'll take some photos of my actual basement today, and try to come up with a final plan for the stuff I've ordered/own
SpaceGhost
New Member
props man, i hella appreciate your presence.
i'll take some photos of my actual basement today, and try to come up with a final plan for the stuff I've ordered/own
I love the basement. Cooler during the summer, winter keeps the buckets/reservoir cool, more stealth, but I have a very clean house and basement. I don't have to many bugs, your Humidity will be a little higher, but I think the good out wiegh the bad. The biggest thing with a basement is making sure you can get your ventilation in/out.
I really don't want to start another debate about suking/pushing but if I could suck through all my hoods I would, some times your grow area dictates the way your room gets set up. The thing is making it the best that you can for the conditions that surround you. You want all the tubing straight as possible any bends reduce air flow by large amounts and the goal is to get your hoods to run as cool as possible to get them as close to the plants as you can.
If you got questions through them out there. I'll help you the best I can.
SpaceGhost
New Member
Your going to run 220voltage right? this is another plus of a basement, running cable, I ran 50amp 220v to my controller boxes.
Any1 planing a new grow from ground up should be considering 220v anything less and any upgrades or running more than 2 1000w ballasts off one circuit breaker is just flirting with fire. In the USA the largest 110 amp breaker is 20amp (I think they used to make 30's) that's only enough for 2 1000s safely. that's one breaker that breaker might be for the whole room, all the sockets in there. what about water pumps, fans, and a air conditioner (that takes a dedicated line by itself 20amp) 1000w pulls 8.5amps at 110v digital. that same ballast will pull 4.25 @ 220v and everything will run cooler too.
Ak1 are you still doing 110v's?
Any1 planing a new grow from ground up should be considering 220v anything less and any upgrades or running more than 2 1000w ballasts off one circuit breaker is just flirting with fire. In the USA the largest 110 amp breaker is 20amp (I think they used to make 30's) that's only enough for 2 1000s safely. that's one breaker that breaker might be for the whole room, all the sockets in there. what about water pumps, fans, and a air conditioner (that takes a dedicated line by itself 20amp) 1000w pulls 8.5amps at 110v digital. that same ballast will pull 4.25 @ 220v and everything will run cooler too.
Ak1 are you still doing 110v's?
- Thread starter
- #65
UrbanGrower
New Member
the c.a.p mlc 8x needs to have 40 amp 220v wired into it but i think all the ballast plugs are 120. I know they run a litttle cooler and use a bit less watts (115voltx9amps=1035 watts...240voltx4amps=960 watts). in canada we have 120v for everything besides dryer 
, but im still looking for a friendly, quality electrician/carpenter lol
, but im still looking for a friendly, quality electrician/carpenter lol
SpaceGhost
New Member
I have a pic in my box.
I have everything on a 220v 50amp breaker. My rooms run independent of each other so not to create to much heat and 1 breaker will suffice like this. Veg runs in AM. Flower runs evenings when its cooler out.
IN USA
wire code is as goes
Blk =Common
White= Neutral (the other side of 240) Red can also be a substitute, White can also be grnd for 110.
green= ground Always 110 or 220 or anything else, don't ever wire green to hot I seen peeps get a hela jolt.
solid copper wire no wrap =ground
I did my own wiring, swamping breakers,tonight had to move a 20amp 110 with a 15amp to keep it from blowing and shutting my pc down when the a/c kicks on.
You should really turn the main off, I am comfortable enough or stupid to just turn breaker I am working on off.
The wiring I did was on the bottom right the large blk/wht wires and the the solid copper to grnd. the breakers just poping and out. I turn the breaker off check for pwr with a voltage meter and the when all is ok, unwire breaker and then it just pops out from the center towards the edge of the box. it will kinda roll out/sorta. go to your home depot/hardware store and see how it works there if you want.
The top left is my dryer and stove as you can see blk common and red is neutral.
If you don't feel comfortable working with electric don't. I still get a quiver in my knees.
I have everything on a 220v 50amp breaker. My rooms run independent of each other so not to create to much heat and 1 breaker will suffice like this. Veg runs in AM. Flower runs evenings when its cooler out.
IN USA
wire code is as goes
Blk =Common
White= Neutral (the other side of 240) Red can also be a substitute, White can also be grnd for 110.
green= ground Always 110 or 220 or anything else, don't ever wire green to hot I seen peeps get a hela jolt.
solid copper wire no wrap =ground
I did my own wiring, swamping breakers,tonight had to move a 20amp 110 with a 15amp to keep it from blowing and shutting my pc down when the a/c kicks on.
You should really turn the main off, I am comfortable enough or stupid to just turn breaker I am working on off.
The wiring I did was on the bottom right the large blk/wht wires and the the solid copper to grnd. the breakers just poping and out. I turn the breaker off check for pwr with a voltage meter and the when all is ok, unwire breaker and then it just pops out from the center towards the edge of the box. it will kinda roll out/sorta. go to your home depot/hardware store and see how it works there if you want.
The top left is my dryer and stove as you can see blk common and red is neutral.
If you don't feel comfortable working with electric don't. I still get a quiver in my knees.
Yep, i'm running 110. My dad is a contractor so he has a lot of 110 stuff I can just use for nothing. i had to buy the breakers and 2 boxes as he only had 2 left from his last job. i wired in my own for the lights only. Everything else will run off the household current already in place. IF, I have to run a portable A/C then I will have to run one more outlet for the A/C
SpaceGhost
New Member
the c.a.p mlc 8x needs to have 40 amp 220v wired into it but i think all the ballast plugs are 120. I know they run a litttle cooler and use a bit less watts (115voltx9amps=1035 watts...240voltx4amps=960 watts). in canada we have 120v for everything besides dryer
Fuk the dryer tell the old lady to take it to the laundry mat. Thats waht ya got to tap into get a 50 amp breaker for it and then anouther40 or what ever it is and ya hook the dryer up later. every house should have 220 in it unless it was made out of stone
if your ballasts are 110V The C.A.P controller needs to be wired 110v Most of the new ballasts are switchable 110-220 Your lumiteks should be
Yes you can use 110v cords on your 220 ballasts and C.A.P. Controller box. just wire the cap up to 220. Makes it cheaper. look for 14amp 3 prong cords at local hardware. much cheaper and you can get the lengths ya need or ya can make cords up.
AK1 those ballasts are switchable 110/220? site says so. you just change the voltage going in the ballast. The wires you ran up there can't ya just hook them to 220? the cables the same. just a different breaker and a little rewire. I would sleep better knowing you got this on 220
nothing special about 220 wire any1 it's the amps that count.
The outlets I have are for 120, i'd have to buy new breakers and new titan timers too.
SpaceGhost
New Member
Ak1 go to your thread
Please
Please
- Thread starter
- #71
UrbanGrower
New Member
i honestly don't know a single thing about electricity, I only know to be safe and not touch anything lol. the wife would not be okay with me taking up the dryer plug lol, how much do you think it would cost to have a couple 40 amp circuits put in? with plugs and everything ill need. im still having a very hard time getting an electrician and carpenter, dont have a lot of money but it needs to be someone i trust
- Thread starter
- #72
UrbanGrower
New Member
and the quantum ballasts i just ordered are 120/220v but i think theyre only sending the 120v? so your saying it's okay for me to plug eight 120V ballast plugs into the 220V C.A.P MLC-8X? cause that would be tight
SpaceGhost
New Member
ok looks like I got a little confusion going on. sorry.
If you don't feel conferrable working with electricity by all means don't. It can be safe, if done properly. You could tap into the dryer and only run the dryer when the room is down. You can also buy a dryer extension cord and wire it that way. and if it were me I would unhook the dryer and get this shit going in a year you'll be able to buy the laundry mat. MUHAAAAAaa. No really get it running and the room will pay for a electrician to put a dryer line in.
your ballasts switch automatically, depending what you plug into it as a supply. You also need your ballasts to run off 220 you are over the amps of 120 with 3 ballasts hoods.
no it wouldn't be safe to plug 8 ballasts in at 120v. sorry for confusion. If it weren't for the 3x1000w the box could be wired 120 (it doesn't know)
Plugs and wire don't know they are 120 or 220 they are rate by amps and we lable them 120/220 with a different plug style as so some idiot dosen't plug something wrong voltage in it(they made it stupid proof). if you rewire a 120 plug to 220 its ok just don't plug anything 110 in it.
The C.A.P. controller you picked is activated by a low cost 120v timer that activates a relay inside the cap box and turns on the 220v. the CAP box has plug outlets that you can use 120 or 220 cords. remember the box doesn't know what is hooked up 120/220 so when your running 220 through the box and you plug a 120 cord in it and 220 comes out the end of the cord to your 220 ballasts
if i didn't confuse ya more ask away.
If you don't feel conferrable working with electricity by all means don't. It can be safe, if done properly. You could tap into the dryer and only run the dryer when the room is down. You can also buy a dryer extension cord and wire it that way. and if it were me I would unhook the dryer and get this shit going in a year you'll be able to buy the laundry mat. MUHAAAAAaa. No really get it running and the room will pay for a electrician to put a dryer line in.
your ballasts switch automatically, depending what you plug into it as a supply. You also need your ballasts to run off 220 you are over the amps of 120 with 3 ballasts hoods.
no it wouldn't be safe to plug 8 ballasts in at 120v. sorry for confusion. If it weren't for the 3x1000w the box could be wired 120 (it doesn't know)
Plugs and wire don't know they are 120 or 220 they are rate by amps and we lable them 120/220 with a different plug style as so some idiot dosen't plug something wrong voltage in it(they made it stupid proof). if you rewire a 120 plug to 220 its ok just don't plug anything 110 in it.
The C.A.P. controller you picked is activated by a low cost 120v timer that activates a relay inside the cap box and turns on the 220v. the CAP box has plug outlets that you can use 120 or 220 cords. remember the box doesn't know what is hooked up 120/220 so when your running 220 through the box and you plug a 120 cord in it and 220 comes out the end of the cord to your 220 ballasts
if i didn't confuse ya more ask away.
SpaceGhost
New Member
here is one way you could tap into your main line, they are designed to be installed on a hot line. you would wire the cap box up 1st and then tap the main line. Your local hardware may have something similar.
As long as I have been working with high voltage, 220, 360, 480 I still get nervous I've been in large factories my whole life, changing fuzes, moving mains, I was midnight supervisor and I had to be the one man gang supervisor, maintenance man, qc you name it, this is where I draw most of my knowledge from.
I will look for other stuff that may making getting this running easier.
As long as I have been working with high voltage, 220, 360, 480 I still get nervous I've been in large factories my whole life, changing fuzes, moving mains, I was midnight supervisor and I had to be the one man gang supervisor, maintenance man, qc you name it, this is where I draw most of my knowledge from.
I will look for other stuff that may making getting this running easier.
SpaceGhost
New Member
I was off and maybe we can get a mod in here to correct the original post so no one gets hurtI have a pic in my box.
I have everything on a 220v 50amp breaker. My rooms run independent of each other so not to create to much heat and 1 breaker will suffice like this. Veg runs in AM. Flower runs evenings when its cooler out.
IN USA
wire code is as goes
Blk =Common
White= Neutral (the other side of 240) Red can also be a substitute, White can also be grnd for 110.
green= ground Always 110 or 220 or anything else, don't ever wire green to hot I seen peeps get a hela jolt.
solid copper wire no wrap =ground
I did my own wiring, swamping breakers,tonight had to move a 20amp 110 with a 15amp to keep it from blowing and shutting my pc down when the a/c kicks on.
You should really turn the main off, I am comfortable enough or stupid to just turn breaker I am working on off.
The wiring I did was on the bottom right the large blk/wht wires and the the solid copper to grnd. the breakers just poping and out. I turn the breaker off check for pwr with a voltage meter and the when all is ok, unwire breaker and then it just pops out from the center towards the edge of the box. it will kinda roll out/sorta. go to your home depot/hardware store and see how it works there if you want.
The top left is my dryer and stove as you can see blk common and red is neutral.
If you don't feel comfortable working with electric don't. I still get a quiver in my knees.
wire code is as goes
Blk =Common (hot)
Red is hot ..white is some times used as Hot, then ad red tape to mark as hot.......the electricians that wired up my house didn't do this
White= Neutral
green= ground Always 110 or 220 or anything else, don't ever wire green to hot I seen peeps get a hela jolt.
solid copper wire no wrap =ground
- Thread starter
- #76
UrbanGrower
New Member
my bad for being out and bout, works been really gettin to me recently and I've been stressin about everytin it seems, anyways heres a pic of the basement i have to work with (it was a hoarded basement lol shit up to the knees everywhere so it might not look like its clean but you shoulda seen it before lol). i have a really good carpenter and electrician now, finally, so soon as everythings sterilized and packages are here ill call em. all the 600w quantum ballasts are out of stock so itll take +4 days than everythin else. As you can see i only took pics of the upper right section, mostly because im having some financial issues so i cant start the bottom right half yet, but soon enough.
this is dimensions of whole basement
this is what I think will work
this is dimensions of whole basement
this is what I think will work
how tall is all that space? Looks like you will be installing a new breaker box. Doesn't look as though there are too many spots left.
- Thread starter
- #78
UrbanGrower
New Member
yeah thats what i was thinking too. i really dont know a single thing bout electricity or wiring lol. the height is 5'11 everywhere except the beam which is about 5'7 but ill work around it. i know everything looks real shitty now but i swear in a week max it will be looking nice
- Thread starter
- #79
UrbanGrower
New Member
only other problem is the 4" wall screen vent and my 8" ducting. thats prolly a significant cut down on cfms so ill either try to make a 6" hole or try and duct somewhere else
Good call, I'd try for 8in myself
