Using fabric pots

Tarek N

Well-Known Member
First time using fabric pots. They're 3 gallon for autos.... I've been putting 3/4 clear gravel at the bottom of normal pots, should I do that with fabric?
 
I don't use anything other than Fox Farm Happy Frog (also used Fox Farm Ocean Forrest) in my fabric pots. If you water too much at once, it will run out the sides to the pan under it.

Side note: I have noticed that it will absorb water/feed better if you add a little bit first and let it soak in for 30 seconds before adding more. Moist soil moves water better than dry soil.
 
First time using fabric pots. They're 3 gallon for autos.... I've been putting 3/4 clear gravel at the bottom of normal pots, should I do that with fabric?
You should never do that, no matter what sort of containers you are in. Contrary to the popular myth that this helps drainage, it does not. Proper drainage rates are built into the soils that we buy and there is no need to help it along. Also, the rocks in the bottom actually never dry out, because capillary action between all of them against each other and the sides and the bottom makes the water spread out and it stays down there with nothing to use it up. Typically, all sorts of bad things, bacteria and molds, can grow down there in that danky stagnant water between the rocks, and the roots really don't like being down there at all. You are better served and your roots would have more room to grow by simply using soil all through the container... save the stones for other types of gardening.
 
You should never do that, no matter what sort of containers you are in. Contrary to the popular myth that this helps drainage, it does not. Proper drainage rates are built into the soils that we buy and there is no need to help it along. Also, the rocks in the bottom actually never dry out, because capillary action between all of them against each other and the sides and the bottom makes the water spread out and it stays down there with nothing to use it up. Typically, all sorts of bad things, bacteria and molds, can grow down there in that danky stagnant water between the rocks, and the roots really don't like being down there at all. You are better served and your roots would have more room to grow by simply using soil all through the container... save the stones for other types of gardening.
This post was super helpful as I was deliberating about putting expanded clay balls in the bottom of my fabric pots. I will now proceed without them and fill pots with planting mix only.
Also I was wondering if this would affect bottom watering, and I assume rocks or expanded clay balls would not soak in water the same as straight soil.
 
I am looking for your opinions about these seedlings. I sprouted them in Solo cups and got them to day 9 when I transplanted into the 5 gal cloth pots. You can see from the pics they were healthy (and a little leggy) seedlings. After transplant they appear to be struggling with something and I haven't had this problem with previous grows. I wonder if the Grow Dots from Real Growers are too hot for seedlings?
75* F, 68% RH, 20/4 light on ~400 Par
Build a Soil light
Grow dots mixed in (slow release plant food)
Dusted root ball and added Root Wise to root zone
Watered in with 10% water by volume (.5 Gals each over 2 days)

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Hey Crusher, nice setup!!

Hmm, think @Grand Daddy Black and @stone Otter are resident Grow Dots experts. From memory doesn’t seem like they were hot but they can advise you better.

Just observing but looks like rice hulls or malted barley in your soil mix…

Typically at transplant, after adding mycos; you want to firm the soil up around the rootball removing any air gaps and water in thoroughly. Half gallon over 2 days on a big bag doesn’t sound like enough.

What size grow bags?

Obviously plants don’t always zoom right after transplant, maybe dim or raise lights just a tad until she looks better…

But please wait, seriously don’t a change based on my drivel until more peeps chime in!
 
I am looking for your opinions about these seedlings. I sprouted them in Solo cups and got them to day 9 when I transplanted into the 5 gal cloth pots. You can see from the pics they were healthy (and a little leggy) seedlings. After transplant they appear to be struggling with something and I haven't had this problem with previous grows. I wonder if the Grow Dots from Real Growers are too hot for seedlings?
75* F, 68% RH, 20/4 light on ~400 Par
Build a Soil light
Grow dots mixed in (slow release plant food)
Dusted root ball and added Root Wise to root zone
Watered in with 10% water by volume (.5 Gals each over 2 days)

PXL_20240210_021901009.jpg


PXL_20240210_023520144.jpg


PXL_20240211_153754085.jpg


PXL_20240211_153749125.jpg


PXL_20240211_153745685.jpg


PXL_20240211_153742036.jpg
Adding grow dots on top of a already amended soil is to hot for a young seedling. Check what the "soil" is already amended with? It probably has nutrients that last weeks before you should and need to add nutrients.
 
Hey Crusher, nice setup!!

Hmm, think @Grand Daddy Black and @stone Otter are resident Grow Dots experts. From memory doesn’t seem like they were hot but they can advise you better.

Just observing but looks like rice hulls or malted barley in your soil mix…

Typically at transplant, after adding mycos; you want to firm the soil up around the rootball removing any air gaps and water in thoroughly. Half gallon over 2 days on a big bag doesn’t sound like enough.

What size grow bags?

Obviously plants don’t always zoom right after transplant, maybe dim or raise lights just a tad until she looks better…

But please wait, seriously don’t a change based on my drivel until more peeps chime in!
I think your comment about dimming the lights is what Im going with. It cant hurt anything so Im taking it down to ~300 PAR and give it a couple of days. I think I was to enthusiastic turning them up to slightly over 400.
 
Adding grow dots on top of a already amended soil is to hot for a young seedling. Check what the "soil" is already amended with? It probably has nutrients that last weeks before you should and need to add nutrients.
You may have a point. I used the BAS Light soil because it is lightly amended, but together with the grow dots it could be too much. In any case I am going with the "turn down the lights" advice first. They are autos so I wouldn't want to transplant them again if I can avoid it. Check back in a week and youll see how it goes.
 
Ive used tap water and soil for my indoor and outdoor plants for a couple of years now. I know there are debates about the need to do so in soil. I have actually measured it though and it is about 7.
About 7 sounds a bit high and there might be some recommending lowering it a bit for soil growing.

I did not notice any mention of how you are testing but my first thought was to have someone else run the test on the same sample you used. It is easy for any of us to see different shades of yellow or green if we are testing using a 'drops' kit popular for aquariums and pools.. We can get a different reading than the next guy if testing with an inexpensive or expensive probe, especially if we are all using a different probe even if made by the same company.

Do your test and then take the rest of the sample from the tap to an aquarium or tropical fish store. Every one I have been to will do at least one test for any who ask. Also I have seen local hydroponic and gardening shops (not big box home improvement stores) do the same sort of test for customers.

I live in the Detroit area so I see these types of stores everywhere. If living in a more rural area and there is the probability that the local and often smaller town might not have these stores. Next time going to a nearby city for doctors or shopping trips add stops at aquarium or grow shops. And volunteer to toss in 50 cents or a dollar to the coffee fund. They might say it is not necessary but they appreciate the thought and will be happy to run their test a second time just to be sure of the numbers.
 
About 7 sounds a bit high and there might be some recommending lowering it a bit for soil growing.

I did not notice any mention of how you are testing but my first thought was to have someone else run the test on the same sample you used. It is easy for any of us to see different shades of yellow or green if we are testing using a 'drops' kit popular for aquariums and pools.. We can get a different reading than the next guy if testing with an inexpensive or expensive probe, especially if we are all using a different probe even if made by the same company.

Do your test and then take the rest of the sample from the tap to an aquarium or tropical fish store. Every one I have been to will do at least one test for any who ask. Also I have seen local hydroponic and gardening shops (not big box home improvement stores) do the same sort of test for customers.

I live in the Detroit area so I see these types of stores everywhere. If living in a more rural area and there is the probability that the local and often smaller town might not have these stores. Next time going to a nearby city for doctors or shopping trips add stops at aquarium or grow shops. And volunteer to toss in 50 cents or a dollar to the coffee fund. They might say it is not necessary but they appreciate the thought and will be happy to run their test a second time just to be sure of the numbers.
Yes I have used a color test for PH. I assume this is not very accurate but until now PH wasn't really a concern. I understand that this is part of improving quality, but I have also heard a lot of opinions that say ph doesn't matter when growing in soil. I personally would prefer not to add yet another layer of complexity to watering, but I may try it and see for myself what effect it has versus prior experience.
 
You may have a point. I used the BAS Light soil because it is lightly amended, but together with the grow dots it could be too much. In any case I am going with the "turn down the lights" advice first. They are autos so I wouldn't want to transplant them again if I can avoid it. Check back in a week and youll see how it goes.
Maybe flush a good ph'd water 10 % by volume but you might have to add back what you took out later as they need it Good luck ✌️
 
Yes I have used a color test for PH. I assume this is not very accurate but until now PH wasn't really a concern. I understand that this is part of improving quality, but I have also heard a lot of opinions that say ph doesn't matter when growing in soil. I personally would prefer not to add yet another layer of complexity to watering, but I may try it and see for myself what effect it has versus prior experience
Howdy i have a BIG fabric container and my experience,In organic soil i disagree not to ph water Bio life likes a certain ph and if it fluctuates to much itll slow the biological cycle and over time it'll change the soil biology bacteria likes 7.0 or just above and fungi is a below 7.0 ph so like my water is ph of 8 coming out of the tap i wouldn't want to use that at that range if i can simply adjust it in 2 minutes to 6.8. Where my soul ph is.
To get that in range with a little citric acid and 2 minutes of my time idk its worth it to especially if i run into problems like you got now. I somewhat confident that my soil ph is good because i haven't added that extra equation to the mix. Just my opinion

IMG20240212103347.jpg
 
Hey Crusher, nice setup!!

Hmm, think @Grand Daddy Black and @stone Otter are resident Grow Dots experts. From memory doesn’t seem like they were hot but they can advise you better.

Just observing but looks like rice hulls or malted barley in your soil mix…

Typically at transplant, after adding mycos; you want to firm the soil up around the rootball removing any air gaps and water in thoroughly. Half gallon over 2 days on a big bag doesn’t sound like enough.

What size grow bags?

Obviously plants don’t always zoom right after transplant, maybe dim or raise lights just a tad until she looks better…

But please wait, seriously don’t a change based on my drivel until more peeps chime in!

Howdy i have a BIG fabric container and my experience,In organic soil i disagree not to ph water Bio life likes a certain ph and if it fluctuates to much itll slow the biological cycle and over time it'll change the soil biology bacteria likes 7.0 or just above and fungi is a below 7.0 ph so like my water is ph of 8 coming out of the tap i wouldn't want to use that at that range if i can simply adjust it in 2 minutes to 6.8. Where my soul ph is.
To get that in range with a little citric acid and 2 minutes of my time idk its worth it to especially if i run into problems like you got now. I somewhat confident that my soil ph is good because i haven't added that extra equation to the mix. Just my opinion
Howdy i have a BIG fabric container and my experience,In organic soil i disagree not to ph water Bio life likes a certain ph and if it fluctuates to much itll slow the biological cycle and over time it'll change the soil biology bacteria likes 7.0 or just above and fungi is a below 7.0 ph so like my water is ph of 8 coming out of the tap i wouldn't want to use that at that range if i can simply adjust it in 2 minutes to 6.8. Where my soul ph is.
To get that in range with a little citric acid and 2 minutes of my time idk its worth it to especially if i run into problems like you got now. I somewhat confident that my soil ph is good because i haven't added that extra equation to the mix. Just my opinion

IMG20240212103347.jpg
I think I will check it out PH more carefully. I have to first say that they seem to be liking the lower light. I need a couple more days to see how they go under reduced light, but I think this may have been the problem. I transplanted from Solo cups under a dome to 5 Gal cloth pots in my tent and I wanted to give them as much light as possible, but im afraid I may have over done it a bit. It took 2 days to decide that was a problem and I backed off on the light intensity yesterday, Today they look happier. But some damage done to the first 2 sets of leaves.
Ill have to get my hands on a PH meter I think a cheap Amazon one may be fine. I have a PH test kit and the color indicates PH in the range of 700 out of the tap. As I proceed I will start ph adjusting the water and see if this makes a difference. I have grown without PH adjusting for 2 yrs so it will make a good test to see if it changes anything.
 
Yes I have used a color test for PH. I assume this is not very accurate but until now PH wasn't really a concern.
I have been using the pH kits with the drops for a long time. They seem to be just as accurate as any other option. When I first started aquariums I would take my sample to the tropical fish store as mentioned earlier and would have the same number as they came up with. And, if I tested 3 or 4 times in a half hour or so with one sample kept giving me the same number then I started to understand how to read the colors.

Bonus was that the tropical fish were not dying off of what looked like water pH issues;).
 
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