Waxy looking plant: what is causing this? Would love some input

Honestly I just turned my light not to long ago to 600 w and it's already starting to look better everything's perking up still a little shiny don't get me wrong but I can see movement now before it was dormant stunted and as far as the shiny I'm going to wait until things dry out go through my charts and see where I left it and after it dries out I'm going to go from there.
And the atomic mass I just gave it , 700 ppm

IMG_20220715_181118319_HDR.jpg
 
Honestly I just turned my light not to long ago to 600 w and it's already starting to look better everything's perking up still a little shiny don't get me wrong but I can see movement now before it was dormant stunted and as far as the shiny I'm going to wait until things dry out go through my charts and see where I left it and after it dries out I'm going to go from there.


it's still a bit heavy in n but i'd drive it and see if it uses more of the nutes across the board. i run MC and going in to flower a touch heavy on n is a bit common on that. .


those things look good. i'd run it as is. don't fix what isn't broke.
 
it's still a bit heavy in n but i'd drive it and see if it uses more of the nutes across the board. i run MC and going in to flower a touch heavy on n is a bit common on that. .


those things look good. i'd run it as is. don't fix what isn't b

it's still a bit heavy in n but i'd drive it and see if it uses more of the nutes across the board. i run MC and going in to flower a touch heavy on n is a bit common on that. .


those things look good. i'd run it as is. don't fix what isn't broke.
A pH at 6.3 I ran this time with the atomic mass the other ones are going to let dry out it don't think 6.3 is too high do you
 
A pH at 6.3 I ran this time with the atomic mass the other ones are going to let dry out it don't think 6.3 is too high do you


there's no ph problems showing but it depends on the media where you stick at.
 
Isn't pro-mix HP roughly 5.8 normally maybe lower I should be keeping my pH at the same as the medium?


yes hp is normally considered 5.8. but that was a few yrs ago.

Promix itself states you don't need to worry about ph. as it's been adjusted with lime recently. in practice, many find it requires ph over time, ph has a tendency to bite your ass late in flower on hp.

it also depends on how old the bales are. i have hp promix bales 3 yrs old now. they'll need ph monitoring in a grow.
 
Isn't pro-mix HP roughly 5.8 normally maybe lower I should be keeping my pH at the same as the
yes hp is normally considered 5.8. but that was a few yrs ago.

Promix itself states you don't need to worry about ph. as it's been adjusted with lime recently. in practice, many find it requires ph over time, ph has a tendency to bite your ass late in flower on hp.

it also depends on how old the bales are. i have hp promix bales 3 yrs old now. they'll need ph monitoring in a grow.

medium?
I think the lights perking it back up for sure check it out.. maybe it was a lack of light causing deficiencies look at the new growth they were darker a couple hours ago give or take but the light is heavier now too I don't know time will tell.

IMG_20220715_182937895.jpg
 
also i'm not sure you have the proper nova feed charts. the link looks like the normal flora series. nova is different. there's a number. it's up to a 10 part system with amendments now.

find the chart with the 2 part approach and current light period and go by that. there's a chart for 12 / 12 flower as well as 18 / 6 veg.





it might be why you are a bit hot on n.
the 2 charts aren't that far apart over all, but they are a bit different.


edit : note they have light through aggressive feed approaches depending on the plant.
 
also i'm not sure you have the proper nova feed charts. the link looks like the normal flora series. nova is different. there's a number. it's up to a 10 part system with amendments now.

find the chart with the 2 part approach and current light period and go by that. there's a chart for 12 / 12 flower as well as 18 / 6 veg.





it might be why you are a bit hot on n.
the 2 charts aren't that far apart over all, but they are a bit different.
This one you're talking about I thought this is a flora series feed chart.. I'm using general hydroponics floria series nutrients not Nova.

Screenshot_20220715-163210.png
 
also i'm not sure you have the proper nova feed charts. the link looks like the normal flora series. nova is different. there's a number. it's up to a 10 part system with amendments now.

find the chart with the 2 part approach and current light period and go by that. there's a chart for 12 / 12 flower as well as 18 / 6 veg.





it might be why you are a bit hot on n.
the 2 charts aren't that far apart over all, but they are a bit different.


edit : note they have light through aggressive feed approaches depending on the plant.
Is this not the proper feed chart for these nutrients???

IMG_20220715_184920099.jpg


Screenshot_20220715-163210.png
 
This one you're talking about I thought this is a flora series feed chart.. I'm using general hydroponics floria series nutrients not Nova.

could be a different thread.

that's the regular series. follow standard GH flora series 3 part charts. you pretty well have too much stuff lol.

learn to grow on the base nutes first. you really only need the 3 base nutes and cal-mag to start, until you have a few grows under the belt. not everything is always needed. after that a booster or two is where i'd start.
 
could be a different thread.

that's the regular series. follow standard GH flora series 3 part charts. you pretty well have too much stuff lol.

learn to grow on the base nutes first. you really only need the 3 base nutes and cal-mag to start, until you have a few grows under the belt. not everything is always needed. after that a booster or two is where i'd start.
Yeah maybe you're right I have too many bottles cuz I looked before where you showed me and it just didn't have everything I had so I found this one I'm using now lol
 
i'd check the lower fans for pm. it could just be the photo. if you have white on the big leaves i'd try correct it.
 
am i the only one who just thinks he needs to drive the plant harder ... :p

apologies to @Jame9111

i vote turn up the light.

I remember, some years ago, when people first started suggesting what is known as the "Lucas formula," that the people who were doing so used HID lighting, and at a relatively high level of light-energypower square foot. (Mostly) newbie cannabis gardeners started trying to use that recommendation, and experienced issues...

... because they were using fluorescent lighting :rolleyes: .

I am assuming that someone who goes to the expense and slight additional effort of buying and using all the components listed in GH's "expert" schedule might be expected to provide a relatively high amount of light-energy to their plants (regardless of whether they actually are an expert ;) ).

yes hp is normally considered 5.8. but that was a few yrs ago.

Promix itself states you don't need to worry about ph. as it's been adjusted with lime recently. in practice, many find it requires ph over time, ph has a tendency to bite your ass late in flower on hp.

It's been years, but I - sort of - remember when some people were reporting a like issue with Fox Farm's Ocean Forest product. IIRC, they embed up spiking the stuff with a certain amount of additional lime per US gallon of soil, and no longer had that problem later in their grows (during mid/late flowering phase).

you pretty well have too much stuff lol.

learn to grow on the base nutes first. you really only need the 3 base nutes and cal-mag to start, until you have a few grows under the belt. not everything is always needed. after that a booster or two is where i'd start.

People all over the world (and maybe in orbit above it) have grown many types of plants with the basic Flora series. The stuff has been around for 40 years, or thereabouts.

Having the additional components/supplements merely makes it easier to fine tune things, to come that much closer to providing exactly what the plant requires without also giving more than it needs of something else. Well, and also making it easier for the company to "package" the various elements, so to speak, meaning there's less worry of two or more concentrated elements combining into a compound that causes those elements to be less available to the plant, if they're in separate bottles and get diluted into the nutrient solution before "meeting each other. But it's mostly intended to allow the gardener to adjust ratios according to the needs of the plant.

What we'd provide to a "heavy-feeding" indica might be downright harmful to an equatorial landrace sativa which evolved in a region that has had consistently poor soil conditions for a long period of time. And it's not necessarily always going to work out that the solution is to simply feed less, but at the same ratio; that might mean (for example) that the plant is no longer receiving too much nitrogen - but it is now not receiving enough of something else.

Start simple, and at the lower end of the recommended dosages. (It's cheaper ;).) Then work up gradually, paying attention to the plant. Understand that things such as the amount of light and even temperature / CO₂ level should be considered as being part of the ratio, so to speak.

If feasible... it can potentially be highly useful for a gardener, especially a less experienced one, but also anyone who has made some sort of significant change, such as a nutrient brand switch, different environmental conditions, etc., to grow a set of multiple clones from the same mother plant. Then they can - slightly, meaning by changing one variable at a time - modify things and directly observe what the change does in practice. Or, if nothing else... When an issue arises, they are able to attempt different solutions in order to see which works best or, alternatively, to continue as before with one, as sort of a "control," to allow them to observe whether the thing they tried ended up making things worse - or if that worsening was, instead, more just the... natural progression of the original issue (again, "so to speak").

You can't do that when all your plants are off different strains. You cannot even do it well, in most cases, if your plants are the same strain but are (directly) from seeds.

Ramble... ramble.
 
I remember, some years ago, when people first started suggesting what is known as the "Lucas formula," that the people who were doing so used HID lighting, and at a relatively high level of light-energypower square foot. (Mostly) newbie cannabis gardeners started trying to use that recommendation, and experienced issues...

... because they were using fluorescent lighting :rolleyes: .

I am assuming that someone who goes to the expense and slight additional effort of buying and using all the components listed in GH's "expert" schedule might be expected to provide a relatively high amount of light-energy to their plants (regardless of whether they actually are an expert ;) ).



It's been years, but I - sort of - remember when some people were reporting a like issue with Fox Farm's Ocean Forest product. IIRC, they embed up spiking the stuff with a certain amount of additional lime per US gallon of soil, and no longer had that problem later in their grows (during mid/late flowering phase).



People all over the world (and maybe in orbit above it) have grown many types of plants with the basic Flora series. The stuff has been around for 40 years, or thereabouts.

Having the additional things merely makes it easier to fine tune things, to come that much closer to providing exactly what the plant requires without also giving more than it needs of something else. Well, and also making it easier for the company to "package" the various elements, so to speak, meaning there's less worry of two or more concentrated elements combining into a compound that causes those elements to be less available to the plant, if they're in separate bottles and get diluted into the nutrient solution before "meeting each other. But it's mostly intended to allow the gardener to adjust ratios according to the needs of the plant.

What we'd provide to a "heavy-feeding" indica might be downright harmful to an equatorial landrace sativa which evolved in a region that has had consistently poor soil conditions for a long period of time. And it's not necessarily always going to work out that the solution is to simply feed less, but at the same ratio; that might mean (for example) that the plant is no longer receiving too much nitrogen - but it is now not receiving enough of something else.

Start simple, and at the lower end of the recommended dosages. (It's cheaper ;).) Then work up gradually, paying attention to the plant. Understand that things such as the amount of light and even temperature / CO[subscript]2[/subscript] level should be considered as being part of the ratio, so to speak.

If feasible... it can potentially be highly useful for a gardener, especially a less experienced one, but also anyone who has made some sort of significant change, such as a nutrient brand switch, different environmental conditions, etc., to grow a set of multiple clones from the same mother plant. Then they can - slightly, meaning by changing one variable at a time - modify things and directly observe what the change does in practice. Or, if nothing else... When an issue arises, they are able to attempt different solutions in order to see which works best or, alternatively, to continue as before with one, as sort of a "control," to allow them to observe whether the thing they tried ended up making things worse - or if that worsening was, instead, more just the... natural progression of the original issue (again, "so to speak").

You can't do that when all your plants are off different strains. You cannot even do it well, in most cases, if your plants are the same strain but are (directly) from seeds.

Ramble... ramble.
I agree. And that was a good little read. I've been using the same feed chart and line for like 4 years now 5 years I've always had a little bits of problems here and there but quality is always gotten better I just want better and bigger now
 
I just want better and bigger now

:p.

Having a cannabis garden is sort of like being the owner of a certain Godzilla-class '80s muscle car I used to have. I just wanted it to be a little quicker. And a little quicker. And... then, one day, I drove 250+ miles to a Buick meet-up, lost all sense of proportion, made "a few changes," and oh look, I seem to have joined the DOTC ("driven over the crank") club, lol.

Be careful what you ask for - because, sometimes, the universe obliges. . . .
 
Ok thinks. 🥂
Cut back on the grow portion of your GH will work.
Reduce ml/l.
But how are you feeding her?
Are you alternating water with your feeding?
How often? Are you feeding?
GH is usually a no brainer to use?

Stay safe :cool:
Bill284
 
:p.

Having a cannabis garden is sort of like being the owner of a certain Godzilla-class '80s muscle car I used to have. I just wanted it to be a little quicker. And a little quicker. And... then, one day, I drove 250+ miles to a Buick meet-up, lost all sense of proportion, made "a few changes," and oh look, I seem to have joined the DOTC ("driven over the crank") club, lol.

Be careful what you ask for - because, sometimes, the universe obliges. . . .

Cut back on the grow portion of your GH will work.
Reduce ml/l.
But how are you feeding her?
Are you alternating water with your feeding?
How often? Are you feeding?
GH is usually a no brainer to use?

Stay safe :cool:
Bill284
I'm feeding them basically whenever they get light and every time I give them a fresh water drink it looks like it hurts them. Lol so I haven't been lately
 
Back
Top Bottom