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Jame9111
Well-Known Member
And I think that medium feed from general hydroponics don't got enough calcium magnesium in it
Waxy looking plant: what is causing this? Would love some input
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Sunasun
Well-Known Member
Looks like the red stems are only on top which is a sign of light stress. Your bottom stems are beautiful green. Can you raise your light a little or turn down intensity. They don't need as much light in veg as in flower.
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Jame9111
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I was thinking that too my friend cuz the growth is coming out stronger and better it just looks like it needs a little extra calcium magnesium more on the calcium wise.. but the new feed amount isn't dialed in quite so I'm going to let it dry out and go from there and just keep an eye on things but yeah you're probably right my stems are getting a slight suntan especially now that I put a LED in there as well
Still trying to figure out this 420 magazine site so much things get you mixed up
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Jame9111
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Updates in a few days... In the meantime I got to figure out this site more.I was thinking that too my friend cuz the growth is coming out stronger and better it just looks like it needs a little extra calcium magnesium more on the calcium wise.. but the new feed amount isn't dialed in quite so I'm going to let it dry out and go from there and just keep an eye on things but yeah you're probably right my stems are getting a slight suntan especially now that I put a LED in there as well
Still trying to figure out this 420 magazine site so much things get you mixed up
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Jame9111
Well-Known Member
What's creating a pole mean?
it's a horsehsit number arrived by voodo math which means nothing except to the marketing dept.
it's supposed to make you think it's the equivalent to a 1000w hps when it's nowhere close. sketchy companies keep trotting those numbers out. ethical ones tell what the driver pulls, that's the important number.
it happens in nature too. it's generally nothing to sweat.
in jamaica they say the plant has blood in the veins, it's a desired trait in some strains. they pretty much never carry it through to flower though.
you wouldn't think it by the above but that is true. i can veg forever under 200w. i flower under 600w. the jump in lighting power is part of the process.
don't chase run off. most times it doesn't have any info you want. if you have issues you can do a flush, but i can't see any.
what's your media ? you're ph'ing for hydro. you may be a bit low. if you're in hp promix you may not need to ph at all. it probably won't hurt though.
this might help with the watering
The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant
The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant Also covered: the importance of pH and why we successively up-pot How to Water Over the last several years I have put a lot of study into this, and I feel that I can now define the proper way to water a potted plant. Keep in mind that this discussion...
www.420magazine.com
hp typically follows a f/w/f/w or f/f/w schedule. it's intended to keep fight salt build up and lockout.
Sunasun
Well-Known Member
Bluter, pro mix is treated like soil and needs a ph of at least 6.3, below this and magnesium can not be uptaken in this medium. I think you solved the red stem problem. If she can't uptake magnesium, she won't be able to properly process other nutrients.
It's ph balanced to 6.5 range using dolomite lime. He may have been counteracting that.
The recommendation of watering promix every day doesn't seem right. I believe promix does make a coco based product though which would indeed require being watered that often. In peat, it's usually like 3-7 days for me. The watering frequency really depends on how root bound the plant gets. And once the plant starts flowering then you should avoid wet / dry cycles and water before the medium dries out completely. You don't need to adjust pH during a period of a single grow.
Whew, and I thought hydroponics was supposed to be the complicated method. DWC - don't let the reservoir go dry, keep the level of dissolved oxygen high, the only thing in there is what the gardener pours in... and if the gardener has some sort of colossal screw-up, lol, just dump the reservoir and refill; problem solved in two minutes.
Emeraldo
Well-Known Member
Wow, great thread! @Jame9111 congrats you solved your issue and who'd-a-thunkit more light was the solution. High level of learning going on and you have the A-Team on board. Being an outdoor-only grower, I haven't yet had the problem of which light to use and whether or not to turn it brighter. Don't think I'd want to do that! Lol.
In fact, with the extreme heat we've been experiencing, I've been looking for ways to keep the plants cooler with shade, deflect the burning sun rays away in the afternoon heat, and keep the cool breeze off the lake blowing through the grow zone. Outdoor growing, the conditions are almost out of my control of course (I do control location, watering, and soil content and pH) so I just marvel at what you can achieve as an indoor grower.
So @Jame9111 what are your issues with the 420 site?
In fact, with the extreme heat we've been experiencing, I've been looking for ways to keep the plants cooler with shade, deflect the burning sun rays away in the afternoon heat, and keep the cool breeze off the lake blowing through the grow zone. Outdoor growing, the conditions are almost out of my control of course (I do control location, watering, and soil content and pH) so I just marvel at what you can achieve as an indoor grower.
So @Jame9111 what are your issues with the 420 site?
because hp has been amended with dolomite, promix staunchly refuses to answer the question of ph directly. in theory it should act similar to a soil, requiring no ph at all. in practice, ph drifts over time in promix, especially if it keeps getting watered at the same ph. a f/w/f/w or f/f/w schedule is intended in part to reduce this tendency.
in the past i have maintained a strict ph regime in promix. local growers have indicated promix has continued tweaking the formula, many have dropped ph all together, others monitor it and adjust if they feel it is necessary.
@InTheShed has extensive promix experience on the board and he has dropped it entirely.
Sunasun
Well-Known Member
True, but wouldn't him watering at 5.8 drop the pH?
I f w w myself at 6.35-6.55 myself using promix and advanced nutrients' ph perfect system.
he does not ph at all. his feed ph would be whatever it mixes to and would change a lot over the course of the grow.
ph'ing that nute line at all is not supposed to be necessary.
that's not cannabis lol.
it's been noted that other types of flowering plants aren't as finicky, as it's producing a flower, not a bud.
regardless, piles of folk on the board still ph that line, and still ph that media. it seems all over the map. there's a lot of confusion. hp itself isn't helping to end it.
Sunasun
Well-Known Member
I use ro water because local tap has like 600 ppm of crap. When I use nutes, I check the ph and it is just always in that range. I don't have to fiddle with it to get to that range, it's just there. I also take the ppm but that's more so I'll know if my ro system has taken a shit.
Those were pretty but here's cannabis.
nice plants.
essentially you're doing the same as shed, and just ignoring ph. earlier versions of promix suggested anything in the range of 5.6 to 6.2. that's under soils 6.3 - 6.5, but close enough in real terms to not mean a crap, and it's all through hydros wheelhouse. you're solidly centered in the happy spot
i have bales of promix hanging around. as it gets older, the amendment breaks down before use, and apparently ph becomes more finicky.
i have to run ro here too. it fluctuates stupid with the seasons here. at least with the ro i have a blank slate.
Sunasun
Well-Known Member
Yeah essentially. I have so many bags of pro mix. I'll watch their pH as these bags get older. Since I started gardening, people give them to me for Christmas and birthdays. Lol
Thank you about the plants.
Did we chase off the op?
The manufacturer of ProMix has directly answered the question of pH and it's the opening post here:
Do we need to pH adjust our nutrient solutions?
Greetings all! I recently had a running email conversation with the "Grower Services & Product Development Director" at ProMix (aka Premier Tech). I began the conversation by posting a question on their website, asking if I should be treating ProMix HP as soil or soil-less when mixing...
www.420magazine.com
It does not matter what pH you use when you water ProMix, what matters is the type of N in your nutes (as explained in the link above), along with the alkaline content of your water and the length of your grow.
Anyone who wants to can adjust the pH of their nutes, but it doesn't make a difference to the pH of the medium which is what the roots see. The ProMix will change the pH of the water to the pH of the ProMix, which is why slurry testing is important rather than pH-adjusting your nutes.
Just yesterday I made a slurry of very used ProMix and 7.0 pH distilled water. In an hour the water pH was 5.8. You think that hour would make a big difference to the plant?
I've moved off ProMix because my grows are close to 180 days in 7 gallon pots, which is well-past the buffering ability of the ProMix.
They readily admit that soil has greater buffering capacity than their peat-based products.
ProMix does not recommend pH-adjusting your nutes.
not on their website though. they specifically wait til it's an issue and respond outside of their own literature. that's a big reason this never ever ever stops being a topic. it's monotonous.
this is the drift i mentioned earlier. it also really doesn't help their messaging. you are more frank about their grow characteristics than they are.
until it's an issue and you're contacting them plus making a stink on the forums. that is the only time i've seen a response. and it's never in their own lit. i've seen better info on growing sales sites that have no direct affiliation with promix than i see on their own site.
most outside sites recommend the 5.6 - 6.2, and to ph outside of those ranges to bring them in.
How to Maintain the Proper pH of a Growing Medium | PRO-MIX Greenhouse Growing
When asked “How do you maintain the proper pH of a growing medium?”, often the answer is to adjust the water pH to achieve a growing medium pH in the ideal range of 5.6-6.2. This is simply not true.
www.pthorticulture.com
Who could ask for anything more? ♪ ♫
that the exactly the article that is cited as causing alot of the trouble lol. it's also the one i was thinking of. if you get late ph drift - usually in flower at the worst possible time - the article itself mentions to bring it back in.
edit: bottom line - if you long in hp, or if it gets old before use, you have to monitor ph. it's the same with any dolomite amended peat product. sunshine#4 is another with identical or close components. it has similar trouble.
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