Which is what I do. But obviously not by adjusting the pH of the water. That's meaningless to the pH of the substrate.the article itself mentions to bring it back in.
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Which is what I do. But obviously not by adjusting the pH of the water. That's meaningless to the pH of the substrate.the article itself mentions to bring it back in.
Which is what I do. But obviously not by adjusting the pH of the water. That's meaningless to the pH of the substrate.
You're in hydro so you have to work from input. As proven by slurry testing, changing the pH of the water will not change the pH of soil or ProMix. Within 60 minutes the pH will reflect the medium not the water. Probably less in a potted plant, since we're not adding enough water to make mud.is hear what you're saying. the difference is in the method. i do it on the inputs / flushes / and never monitor outputs or do a slurry.
Yeah bro, science.This isn't anecdote or experience, it's science.
once again, yes... these are closed containers, not farm fields. The pH of the water rules in this environment. None of your cited "science" discusses closed containers. Unless you have some new information, you have not yet been able to convince me that you are right.Are you saying that slurry tests are worthless to measure the pH of your substrate?
Didn't we establish that his nutes auto ph? Here we go again.
You're in hydro so you have to work from input. As proven by slurry testing, changing the pH of the water will not change the pH of soil or ProMix. Within 60 minutes the pH will reflect the medium not the water. Probably less in a potted plant, since we're not adding enough water to make mud.
Anyone having a pH problem in soil or ProMix is having a pH problem of the soil or ProMix, not a problem with their water. Roots see the pH of the substrate in under an hour.
This isn't anecdote or experience, it's science.
once again, yes... these are closed containers, not farm fields. The pH of the water rules in this environment. None of your cited "science" discusses closed containers. Unless you have some new information, you have not yet been able to convince me that you are right.
It took a while of watering with an 80/20 mix of nitrate/ammoniacal N to get that back down from the 6.8 it has risen to. This is why I'm not using ProMix at the moment.the 5.8 you cite suggests it balances to hydro ph which is what i would consider perfect for soilless.
Only in hydro. As I've mentioned, anyone who wants to pH their nutes can certainly do that if it makes them comfortable. It will not change the pH of the substrate as shown in slurry tests in closed containers. The roots will take up the nutrients at the pH of the substrate.if ph doesn't matter, does it matter if you ph ?
Only in hydro. As I've mentioned, anyone who wants to pH their nutes can certainly do that if it makes them comfortable. It will not change the pH of the substrate as shown in slurry tests in closed containers. The roots will take up the nutrients at the pH of the substrate.
Here is a paper from Cornell on the importance of testing the pH in containers and how to correct it:Unless you have some new information,
Well saidSorry bro, but you are once again making unsubstantiated assumptions about comparing a lab experiment to what happens in a closed container of soil. What we have in our containers is not a pure and consistent slurry in a small well mixed closed container. We add 10lbs of water to 1 or 2 lbs of soil and because Gravity still works, it gathers at the bottom of that container where the big feeder roots are, and it is much less of a slurry down there than it is a light soup, maybe even a brew. The assertions that your "science" makes about a slurry, are not at all true in real practice, down in the bottom of the container, where it counts, What you have down there where the roots are is not at all a well mixed slurry of equal amounts of soil and water like you have in your slurry test, and because the water down there outweighs the soil around it by many fold, it has by far the most influence on the pH. In that environment (again, where it counts) the pH is much closer to that of the water/nutrient mix. At that moment, the pH of the liquid is indeed starting to drift because of the medium trying to influence it, but that is a very much slower process since the soil is not being manually mixed into the slurry as in your rapid pH change experiment, the soil has a cohesion that doesn't allow it to mix in such a way with the water, so you get more of a flow through effect rather than an immediate conversion. It takes time for the buffers in the soil to influence the pH of the liquid. Think of the environment down there below the water table as a well populated solar system with cohesive chunks of matter here and there, but mostly vast spaces of nutrient water in pathways and oceans between them. The feeder roots exist in this environment, mostly influenced by the water flowing through those areas. It has to be. The engineering 10:1 rule says it must be.
i have bales of promix hanging around. as it gets older, the amendment breaks down before use, and apparently ph becomes more finicky.
you won't explain how this fits into the present argument, in your own words, but you want us to read it anyway because it is long and important and just the act of presenting it to us makes you look like you know everything there is to know about his subject, and that you are right in every respect. Just read it! Then you will understand! Got it. Not sure yet what all this has to do with a grow that doesn't need to worry about pH, but I surely am impressed.Here is a paper from Cornell on the importance of testing the pH in containers and how to correct it:
It's probably going to get taken down since we're not supposed to link to pdf files, but I don't want to post all 9 pages as images as the site would prefer.