1080w LED Inferno
- Thread starter IrishBoy
- Start date
gzusZombie
New Member
Voted and now your at 50%
The tent is definitely the way to go. As seen with Mike's SLH I think the reflective surface helped allot.
The tent is definitely the way to go. As seen with Mike's SLH I think the reflective surface helped allot.
- Thread starter
- #143
great post! +REP!!!
i think the grow lab is my best bet. the strongest and best reflective matiral. although he said is not the most light tight it much be good, because lots of growers seem to have them.
- Thread starter
- #144
thanks man. the cool thing is this journal already has allot of great info on it.
Anyone please if you have any question or great info to post on here please do so. I want this thread to have some great info and facts so others can learn.
Ok so im trying to learn more about lst now.
It seems like lst'd plants usually end up with the center of the plant not directly above the center of the pot. I was thinking this could make it hard to spin the pots if you are in a tight spot, you know, to expose another side of the plant to more direct light.
So i was thinking, why not plant your babies closer to the edge of the pot and bend them across towards the other side of the pot?
it shouldn't hurt the roots right?
Is there a reason it shouldn't be done, or is it just not necessary?
It seems like lst'd plants usually end up with the center of the plant not directly above the center of the pot. I was thinking this could make it hard to spin the pots if you are in a tight spot, you know, to expose another side of the plant to more direct light.
So i was thinking, why not plant your babies closer to the edge of the pot and bend them across towards the other side of the pot?
it shouldn't hurt the roots right?
Is there a reason it shouldn't be done, or is it just not necessary?
- Thread starter
- #146
Voted and now your at 50%
The tent is definitely the way to go. As seen with Mike's SLH I think the reflective surface helped allot.
Oh ya the Nug Of The Month. thanks for the vote brother!
Everyone dont forget to vote this month. lots of great buds/members this month.
420 Magazine's Nug of the Month Contest: May 2010
Once again thanks for the Nug vote, gzusZombie
- Thread starter
- #147
I have a 4 x 19 x 53 lighthouse grow tent. These tents are very well made they have heavy duty zippers and reinforced vent holes and so on. Now I was shipped the wrong tent, I had ordered the 4 x 24 x 53. Nevertheless the tent I got is very well made, but after getting it all set up and light on I could see some light escaping. There were two pin holes on the left side and two on the right side. Inside the tent there are two pockets on either side. This is where the holes are. I think it must have been when the tent was sewn. I just put some duct tape over it. Other than that there are flaps that cover the zippers up. Now every tent is made differently so you will need to do some research first. Someone put up a link for tent reviews that is a good place to start. So I would say that my tent is now 99.9% light proof.
I had major heat problems from the beginning. All I had for an exhaust was a 180cfm duct fan. So what I did was take a water/ice fan {kind of like a swamp cooler and portable A/C unit} that I had and constructed a 4in connector to it and then to the tent. So I was blowing the cold air into the tent and this worked fine for a while until the plants started to smell oh so good to me, but not my wife. I ended up moving the tent to another closet in the house. This time I bought a 6in carbon filter fan combo for it. I ran it up into the attic and out through the eve vents. This is working out much better. The temps in the room lets say are 77F when I turn on the fan I can get it to 70F if I want to. Because of the air movement I can get lower temps. This may not sound right, but it works. I can also hook back up the water/ice fan and get even lower temps. This will help when the temps get over 100F here.
Not sure if I would vent the A/C exhaust back into the room all that hot air will go into the tent. IMO. If you could exhaust to a window, attic, bathroom exhaust, or something that would be your best bet.
Yes the better tents do block out some of the radiant heat. You can also get a material that blocks out radiant heat, they sell it at home depot. Some people put it over there HID lights to block out the FLIR {forward looking Infrared Radar} from helicopters. Click
nevergetbusted — January 04, 2009 — Barry Cooper explains how police use FLIR technology to look for heat signatures.
Whatever you end up doing I know you will have a GREAT grow!!
very solid post thanks! +REP
- Thread starter
- #148
yes the main stem will be wherever you bend it to meaning it wont be dead center, if you do it right it should look like a triton staff. all the side branches will think their tops and grow straight up and then you will have branches in the middle of the pot. if done right you will have everything even on all sides.
LST plants do get wider rather then if you let the plant grow straight up and lollipop the bottom branches that are usaly the ones that grow out wide.
take a look at my pic gallery and you will see what i mean.
Ya Ya it's settled. Hot plants with cool feet equals Happy Plants!
Got to work today and my co-worker asked me how soon I was gonna get my light. Then he said how about in the next couple of weeks?
He laughed and said he talked to Mike and gots 3 180s inbound and 1s mine! (I'll start with 1 and grab 2 more Oct wink-wink).
Anyways, Reps+ (tanks Viper for showing me the Rep thing) cause I would never have gone LED without your unsolicited/unbiased write ups.
Go Inferno grow!
Got to work today and my co-worker asked me how soon I was gonna get my light. Then he said how about in the next couple of weeks?
He laughed and said he talked to Mike and gots 3 180s inbound and 1s mine! (I'll start with 1 and grab 2 more Oct wink-wink).
Anyways, Reps+ (tanks Viper for showing me the Rep thing) cause I would never have gone LED without your unsolicited/unbiased write ups.
Go Inferno grow!
- Thread starter
- #150
I have a question for those you know all about ventilation? witch should be bigger the intake or the exhaust or both equal? my intake is 135cfm and my exhaust is 293cfm. and i think thats the problem i am having. i think my exhaust is creating a suction from air leaks around my water heater since the air flow coming in is weaker. i need some help on this from someone who knows their shit about intake and exhaust.
I don't believe this is the case ... your tent at minimum will be the ambient temperature of the room its in... unless you are pulling air from somewhere else with even cooler/warmer air.
with 1080w of lights he is using a tent will be at least 8 degrees warmer than the room its in. I only use a 600w LED in a 5x5x6.5 tent and keep the room at a steady 72 degrees with a huge 8" vortex fan blowing air out..and its always 78 and sometimes 82 degrees in the tent
Green Utopia
New Member
Hiya, just poking in. Some interesting topics of convo.
Re the FLIR. Two things he mentions in that video, but doesn't really focus on, and one he completely neglects.
1 - FLIR can not see through anything. For some of them, this includes fog. It can not even see through clear glass. The advertisement for those grow tents that show a FLIR gun being blocked are pointless as far as security. You could put a sheet of glass, cloth, paper, tinfoil, saran wrap, or anything else in front of the camera and it would not be able to see through it. If you have a tent inside a room - the FLIR will never see the tent - let alone what's inside it. Look at the video as he's driving down the street. You can't see into a single window. They are looking for heat signatures. He does a good job of touching on this, but I think that's the most important thing and he doesn't spend enough time. Just make sure to spread your heat signature. In the summer heat ducted to an attic crawlspace will be unnoticable, but heat coming from under the house will be obvious. In the winter, heat in a crawlspace may need to be dispersed.
2 - They need a search warrant to use FLIR or Microwave. But not on un-attached buildings. That's in the video, but I don't think he makes a big enough deal about it. To get a search warrant they need 3 pieces of circumstantial evidence. This could be excessive electricity bills, combined with Grodan and Hydroton bags found in the trash, combined with a neighbor or cop who claims they smell something. But the point is don't give them these opportunities.
3 - Microwave cameras. FLIR stands for Forward Looking Infra-Red Device. There are other cameras that can "see through" walls that are not infra-red based. These will not be stopped by thermal barriers. These are much more expensive, still very rare, and certainly require a warrant to be used.
That's it for my spiel on FLIR. I have seen many people get a tent then duct it right to a window or wall and think that's safe. Unless it looks like a normal portable A/C that's ducted out a window, your tent is is not helping your cause at all if you do this.
Last but not least - as far as fans and cooling in a tent. Remember that fans can only bring the air to the ambient temperature of their intake. Fans do not lower the temp. If you stand in 80 degree weather and put a fan on you - the air blowing over you is still 80 degrees. You feel cooler because the increased airflow increases transpiration and you sweat out some heat.
I'm not really sure whether any of that has any bearing on anything, but I'm well medicated and felt like throwing in my 2 cents.
The more I think about this grow - the more I agree with you that ambient heat is offset by the condition of the soil. Do you think your soil inside will remain cool, or will it eventually rise to the 90-100 temp of the room? And when you grow outside, do you think the fact that in the ground the plants have cooler dirt is helping?
Re the FLIR. Two things he mentions in that video, but doesn't really focus on, and one he completely neglects.
1 - FLIR can not see through anything. For some of them, this includes fog. It can not even see through clear glass. The advertisement for those grow tents that show a FLIR gun being blocked are pointless as far as security. You could put a sheet of glass, cloth, paper, tinfoil, saran wrap, or anything else in front of the camera and it would not be able to see through it. If you have a tent inside a room - the FLIR will never see the tent - let alone what's inside it. Look at the video as he's driving down the street. You can't see into a single window. They are looking for heat signatures. He does a good job of touching on this, but I think that's the most important thing and he doesn't spend enough time. Just make sure to spread your heat signature. In the summer heat ducted to an attic crawlspace will be unnoticable, but heat coming from under the house will be obvious. In the winter, heat in a crawlspace may need to be dispersed.
2 - They need a search warrant to use FLIR or Microwave. But not on un-attached buildings. That's in the video, but I don't think he makes a big enough deal about it. To get a search warrant they need 3 pieces of circumstantial evidence. This could be excessive electricity bills, combined with Grodan and Hydroton bags found in the trash, combined with a neighbor or cop who claims they smell something. But the point is don't give them these opportunities.
3 - Microwave cameras. FLIR stands for Forward Looking Infra-Red Device. There are other cameras that can "see through" walls that are not infra-red based. These will not be stopped by thermal barriers. These are much more expensive, still very rare, and certainly require a warrant to be used.
That's it for my spiel on FLIR. I have seen many people get a tent then duct it right to a window or wall and think that's safe. Unless it looks like a normal portable A/C that's ducted out a window, your tent is is not helping your cause at all if you do this.
Last but not least - as far as fans and cooling in a tent. Remember that fans can only bring the air to the ambient temperature of their intake. Fans do not lower the temp. If you stand in 80 degree weather and put a fan on you - the air blowing over you is still 80 degrees. You feel cooler because the increased airflow increases transpiration and you sweat out some heat.
I'm not really sure whether any of that has any bearing on anything, but I'm well medicated and felt like throwing in my 2 cents.
The more I think about this grow - the more I agree with you that ambient heat is offset by the condition of the soil. Do you think your soil inside will remain cool, or will it eventually rise to the 90-100 temp of the room? And when you grow outside, do you think the fact that in the ground the plants have cooler dirt is helping?
this depends on where your fans are and what direction they are going...
you almost certainly want a larger exhaust and smaller intake (this will create negative pressure in the tent and much more equal airflow)
Most will put fans blowing out only ..no real need for intake fans in most cases ..especially if you get one big fan (the grolabs tents allow for 3 different placements of large vortex type fans).
get one ..blow it out ... unless of course you have a cooler room somewhere that yon can bring air into the tent from.
Im using a growlab 145 ... its pretty good ...only have had to stick stuff in the drawstring holes that i don't use. there isn't enough light coming in to do anything with... its actually darker in there than it is outside in the middle of a forest with a full moon and clear sky.
- Thread starter
- #154
Hiya, just poking in. Some interesting topics of convo.
Re the FLIR. Two things he mentions in that video, but doesn't really focus on, and one he completely neglects.
1 - FLIR can not see through anything. For some of them, this includes fog. It can not even see through clear glass. The advertisement for those grow tents that show a FLIR gun being blocked are pointless as far as security. You could put a sheet of glass, cloth, paper, tinfoil, saran wrap, or anything else in front of the camera and it would not be able to see through it. If you have a tent inside a room - the FLIR will never see the tent - let alone what's inside it. Look at the video as he's driving down the street. You can't see into a single window. They are looking for heat signatures. He does a good job of touching on this, but I think that's the most important thing and he doesn't spend enough time. Just make sure to spread your heat signature. In the summer heat ducted to an attic crawlspace will be unnoticable, but heat coming from under the house will be obvious. In the winter, heat in a crawlspace may need to be dispersed.
2 - They need a search warrant to use FLIR or Microwave. But not on un-attached buildings. That's in the video, but I don't think he makes a big enough deal about it. To get a search warrant they need 3 pieces of circumstantial evidence. This could be excessive electricity bills, combined with Grodan and Hydroton bags found in the trash, combined with a neighbor or cop who claims they smell something. But the point is don't give them these opportunities.
3 - Microwave cameras. FLIR stands for Forward Looking Infra-Red Device. There are other cameras that can "see through" walls that are not infra-red based. These will not be stopped by thermal barriers. These are much more expensive, still very rare, and certainly require a warrant to be used.
That's it for my spiel on FLIR. I have seen many people get a tent then duct it right to a window or wall and think that's safe. Unless it looks like a normal portable A/C that's ducted out a window, your tent is is not helping your cause at all if you do this.
Last but not least - as far as fans and cooling in a tent. Remember that fans can only bring the air to the ambient temperature of their intake. Fans do not lower the temp. If you stand in 80 degree weather and put a fan on you - the air blowing over you is still 80 degrees. You feel cooler because the increased airflow increases transpiration and you sweat out some heat.
I'm not really sure whether any of that has any bearing on anything, but I'm well medicated and felt like throwing in my 2 cents.
The more I think about this grow - the more I agree with you that ambient heat is offset by the condition of the soil. Do you think your soil inside will remain cool, or will it eventually rise to the 90-100 temp of the room? And when you grow outside, do you think the fact that in the ground the plants have cooler dirt is helping?
Very nice post! +REP!!
FLIR cant see threw hardly anything. its the heat temps and cluster coming from the house they look at. If you ever seen that show "COPS" when they are chasing a guys using FLIR notice when he hinds under a tree they cant see him anymore. then its up to the dogs to find him. so if they cant even see threw a tree they sure in the hell cant see threw ur house wall.
about the room temps ur right the air ur pulling in is gonna be the same as going out the other end. but in my case it should be cooler because of the extra heat from my water heater heating up the room. but i just solved my extra heat problem by switching around my intake/exhaust fans. i was pulling in less air them i was sucking out and it was sucking the heat from the attic and water heater. now i have more air coming in then going out ant my temps dropped and the water heater in getting all the heat sucked into my room.
No i believe i need to get a bigger exhaust fan the same size as my intake to balance things out and make an even air flow. sound right????
- Thread starter
- #155
I just did the opposite with the fans, bigger intake and smaller exhaust and it dropped my room temps allot lower. i believe if i make both fans equal size it will be even cooler. i have no need for a tent now. i just have to dial in my ventilation. I much rather spend the money on a dialed in vent system then buy a tent. I have to dial it in a bit more but tomorrow i should have it figured out.
you dont need an intake fan...if anything several much smaller intake fans are ok and one big exhaust
if you have the same size or one of each ..the moving air will follow the path of least resistance ...in other words ..it will come in through one fan and straight out the other fan without circulating.
one good exhaust fan and it will suck so hard on your tent it will bulge inward like your gf's cheeks sucking on your you know
so are you talking about a room or are you talking about a tent inside a room...well obviously if you are taking air from one cooler room and putting it in a warmer room it naturally will cool down ..
if you are talking about sucking from the room a tent is in ..there will be no cooling other than bringing the tent within 10 degrees of the room its in.
its kinda like the old and wrong school of thought to put a fan in the window and blow air in from the outside of your home ... why would you do that?
if you open all your windows and blow the single fan out ... all the other windows effectively become intakes and your home will cool 10x's faster
or ... why is an intake on a car so small in comparison to its exhaust? you want air speed and efficiency with intake ..and you want a completely open and as little as possible back-pressure for exhaust.
if you have the same size or one of each ..the moving air will follow the path of least resistance ...in other words ..it will come in through one fan and straight out the other fan without circulating.
one good exhaust fan and it will suck so hard on your tent it will bulge inward like your gf's cheeks sucking on your you know
so are you talking about a room or are you talking about a tent inside a room...well obviously if you are taking air from one cooler room and putting it in a warmer room it naturally will cool down ..
if you are talking about sucking from the room a tent is in ..there will be no cooling other than bringing the tent within 10 degrees of the room its in.
its kinda like the old and wrong school of thought to put a fan in the window and blow air in from the outside of your home ... why would you do that?
if you open all your windows and blow the single fan out ... all the other windows effectively become intakes and your home will cool 10x's faster
or ... why is an intake on a car so small in comparison to its exhaust? you want air speed and efficiency with intake ..and you want a completely open and as little as possible back-pressure for exhaust.
- Thread starter
- #157
no tent just a plain room. and i do need a intake with my setup. i was thinking of buying a tent to fight the heat from the water heater but now that i switched the fans around the heat isnt a problem now.
I dont want the air to circulate with my exhaust fan, i want it to come from one end and blow right pass my plants and out behind them like i am doing. i have an 18" pedestal fan to circulate the air.
the way your telling me to do it was the way i had it for the winter time and trust me it creates more heat with a smaller intake and bigger exhaust. i just watched the numbers drop before my eyes because my room inst 100% sealed air tight because of the water heater. i want the air flowing free just like out doors. since i have 100F* temps coming in the summer heat. Now i understand what ur saying but since the water heat is in their it vents threw the attic and all i am doing is sucking hot air from the hottest place in the house (attic) with the smaller intake and bigger exhaust and making a vacuum of hot stale attic air.
- Thread starter
- #158
I just wanted to say a BIG THANKS to HorseBadortiz for putting me down for member of the month! i didn't see this until now when i went to vote! it feels good you like my led info and grows that much.
I am moving up in the world, on the member of the month and nug of the month.lol
much love and respect brother!
I am moving up in the world, on the member of the month and nug of the month.lol
much love and respect brother!
vipers
New Member
Irish, I see you're not going to get a tent so this prolly doesn't matter but, you have seen my box. 3/4 inch plywood, 2x2 by 51 inches tall. Ran 400HPS in it for years before the LED switch(thank God). I have active and passive intakes and two seperate exhausts. All fans are speed controlled as you know. The intakes are down low to the ground, heat rises so exhaust fans are at the top. The internal temps of my box ALLWAYS are cooler than the ambient temps, especially when there is a full canopy. With lights out and the main exhaust off the secondary exhaust fan runs 24/7 and the box can be 6 to 8 degrees cooler than my living space. But again I see you're not going with a tent but someone else might want too know what happens with others situations. .V.
P.S. Did some thinking about what you were saying about heat stress caused by HID lighting. Makes perfect sense to me and with your silica going and you said you had something else under your sleeve... Hygrozyme? You'll most likely pull this off just fine. We're all rooting for ya, you know that Bro.
P.S. Did some thinking about what you were saying about heat stress caused by HID lighting. Makes perfect sense to me and with your silica going and you said you had something else under your sleeve... Hygrozyme? You'll most likely pull this off just fine. We're all rooting for ya, you know that Bro.
vipers
New Member
Ya Ya it's settled. Hot plants with cool feet equals Happy Plants!
Got to work today and my co-worker asked me how soon I was gonna get my light. Then he said how about in the next couple of weeks?
He laughed and said he talked to Mike and gots 3 180s inbound and 1s mine! (I'll start with 1 and grab 2 more Oct wink-wink).
Anyways, Reps+ (tanks Viper for showing me the Rep thing) cause I would never have gone LED without your unsolicited/unbiased write ups.
Go Inferno grow!
Welcome to 420 and are you talking about me? Vipers aka Viper .V.
