Advice Please

[TomSmith]

Hi All

I'm the usual newb asking what he has done wrong, Probably a lot in my case.

They are 15 days old, i managed to germinate 3 out of 12

Now they are under a 400 watt led light, been fed 30 ml of water every 24 hours.

When i went to check check on them in person the temp was at 30c woops

So i'm assuming the heat has coursed them to flop?

One of them 2 of the leaves have move upwards like it's dying.

 

[go4snypr]

over watered likely, let your dirt get near dry, no need to water every day it is easier to add water than take it away.... a little hot but not bad, cant tell much from the pics, everything looks purpule

 

[TanR]

Hi TomSmith,

I'd have to agree with go4snypr but add that I might consider it a combination of the higher heat and over watering.

 

[TomSmith]

Ill not water them till the top goes dry like you say, I've tried to take some better pictures

 

[Richard Richardson]

Hi Tom to


Can you not take those tube things out of the soil?

They look disturbing and unnecessary

 

[Spimp]

Very much over watered. Dont worry about the top drying out. Wait a minimum of 5 DAYS to even think about watering.

Overwatering is a double edged sword. Roots that hunt and go looking for water get bigger and longer. When they are flooded they go nowhere and you plant doesnt grow.
Also the stem siting in moist conditions constantly can rot and die overnight from Elephant foot syndrome.

I recomend you get som fans blowing on the soil and dont water again fo a long time sir.

 

[TomSmith]

Thank you for the advise all

I've not watered for 2 days now, the soil is still damp at the top, ill leave them another 3.

1 Worrie though, the end of some of the leaves have gone orange and look like they are dying.

I've added some pictures but they have the purple tint and are blurry from my phone, i think i need to invest

 

[TanR]

Hi again TomSmith.

The plants look a little better I think. There may have been some damage done during the wet period from which those lower leaves may never recover. If you can get new growth started again, then I think your plants will be fine.

 

[TomSmith]

What does circulating air do? just move the oxygen around to give the plant a better chance of getting it?

 

[Spimp]

Circulating air does many things. The most important and often overlooked is it constantly changes the angle of the leaf to the light allowing it to absorb more "light" but not the 'heat' from being in one place. Imagine a worker using a steel wrench for an hour straight in the sun. It wouldnt be too hot cause its constantly moving. Then leave another wrench still in the sun for an hour. Its hot as blazes.

It does help strengthen stems and branches and some say it helps the outward growth of roots to stabilize the plant.

Leaves dont need oxygen. They make it. Roots need oxygen, but your fan cant get it too them. Thatsa soft non-clumpy mediums job.

 

[TomSmith]

It has been 4 days now with out any water and they looks to be doing better

I've also added a oscillating fan

Thank you

 

[Spimp]

Your welcome! We want all plants to be healthy sir. Keep us updated!

 

[go4snypr]

yeah, lookin way better. The only advice I can give you is with watering "less is more" same goes for nutrients when you start them. Only water when they are dry, feel the pots you will know what a wet pot feels like compared to a dry pot, go by that before you water. Good luck

 

[TomSmith]

Hello Again

I'm looking for a little bit more advice

When i started my plant process i put all the seeds in a cup of water and move them 1 by one after they sunk onto a damp paper towel onto a plate and put them in the airing cupboard till i saw a root pop out.

5 of these 13 seeds showed roots and 3 survived as you can see in the pictures.

The soil i used for this, after they where planted was

I have now improved my processes to putting them in a tub with damp paper towel on a heated mat, 10/10 routed , i then moved them to rockwool and they all are growing.

Now my concern is that the soil i am using is burning the plants

after they out grew there small homes i moved them into there own pots using just

I'm just using this and nothing else, do i need to add vermiculite as well to oxygenise the roots and flush out the rooting product(if it was special unlike my natural coco)

Sorry for my bad grammar i am english

 

[TomSmith]

I checked on my plants and this is what i saw

I've left my little ones for 2 days with out water, this must have coursed them to fall down, I've watered them and pull them up.

 

[GreatLife4All]

You don't have enough light on the little ones. They are stretching too much and falling over. Have you fed them nutrients yet? There are no nutrients in rockwool... so they could be starving to death as well.

And, IMO, you should NEVER use straight coco. It is very heavy when wet and oxygen won't travel thru it very well. You need to be an expert to water this correctly.

There are various formulas... but for a newbie who has already overwatered once I would suggest a 50/50 or even 75/25 mixture of Perlite to Coco. This is by volume - so pour a container 1/2 to 3/4 full of perlite, fill with coco. Mix and you are ready.

on getting your problems under control my friend.

 

[TomSmith]

I've moved the light down and ordered some Perlite ready for transplant

I assume i move them to soil when the roots are coming out of the bottom, which they are already.

I have coco A + B, i read some where that i put 10 ml of each in a gallon of water, is that correct?

 

[GreatLife4All]

Canna Nutes tend to run a little hot. I would drop down to a max of 6ml / gallon of A+B while in veg.

Are you running R/O water? If so, you also will need to boost the calcium.

Here is what I would do next time...

Assuming that you run R/O Water. Fill your reservoir with clean water. Add CaliMagic until the PPMs read 200 (at .5). Then add Canna A + B in equal quantities until you hit a value of 500 PPM (at .5). This should take some where between 4 and 6 ml / gallon.

If you don't run R/O water do the same thing. Use CaliMagic to get your PPMs up to 200 (at .5). This will take a lot less of CaliMagic because you already have some stuff in the tap water. You can then add A + B till you hit 500 ppm (@ .5).

If your PPMs for tap water are over 200 - you need to either use R/O water or have a water test done. Some public water companies will publish this information. If nothing else works, purchase distilled water and cut your tap water down till it reads 200ppms.

When you hit flowering, these rates will need to change. But still use the same method to prepare the water with CaliMagic as a base. It might take a little experimenting on your part to get it right, but this should work for you.

 

[TomSmith]

Thank you , thank you , thank you

How do I measure the PPM?

What would you recommend to test the ph level?

 

[GreatLife4All]

PPMs are measured using an EC, TDS, or PPM meter - they are called all three things and are slightly different in the way they display the information... but they are fundamentally all the same.

I would recommend an EC meter for mixing nutrient soutions.

For pH - either a meter or the drop kits work fine. The drop kits are one-time-use but relatively cheap as an ongoing expense. You can't use them to test the pH of the soil though unless you use an extraction solution. I used the drop kits for many years with no issues.

The pH meter is more $$ upfront... especially for a quality meter that will last and hold its calibration. But quicker, easier, and slightly more accurate when properly calibrated. They have special meters for measuring soil pH - or you can buy one that measures the pH of liquids. Either way you can be successful, probably better results by checking the pH before you pour the nutes on the soil. But soil has lots of pH buffers and this is not as critical compared to hydro.

my friend.