Bio nutrients, no need to check pH?

aziz

Well-Known Member
i read somewhere that bio nutrients don't need to be ph adjusted, why is that?

i'm currently using canna vega nutes, that need to be ph adjusted

if i get bio nutrients, will checking ph not be a thing anymore? it's just a pain in the ass to constantly, check, adjust, calibrate the meter etc
 
Im using canna nutes and have my ph down in a bottle I can deliver drops from. So i mix up basic nutrients and then use ph pen to verify I found i was well within range using 10-12drops per 10L of nutes basically 1 drop per liter ive been mixing this way and checking periodically and it seems to be doing fine. I to found using ph pen daily a pain in the ass.
Happy420!!
:yummy:
 
Im using canna nutes and have my ph down in a bottle I can deliver drops from. So i mix up basic nutrients and then use ph pen to verify I found i was well within range using 10-12drops per 10L of nutes basically 1 drop per liter ive been mixing this way and checking periodically and it seems to be doing fine. I to found using ph pen daily a pain in the ass.
Happy420!!
:yummy:
it's not even using it, it's just the calibration process. it's such pain.

i use baking soda/vinegar to adjust ph
 
The only reason we adjust pH is so that our salt based synthetic nutrients can become mobile, in the specific pH ranges where they are designed to do just that. If you are not using salt based synthetic nutrients, there really is no NEED to adjust pH, although we do know that even though the bio nutes will work from 8.0 pH - 5.0 pH, they work most efficiently when at the internal pH of the plant, 6.1 pH. In hydro it seems important to try to stay near this number, but in soil I have found that I don't need to worry about or adjust pH and I no longer worry about using unfiltered tap water. Bio nutes are an amazing advancement in our science and my current grow journal is proof of that.
 
The only reason we adjust pH is so that our salt based synthetic nutrients can become mobile, in the specific pH ranges where they are designed to do just that. If you are not using salt based synthetic nutrients, there really is no NEED to adjust pH, although we do know that even though the bio nutes will work from 8.0 pH - 5.0 pH, they work most efficiently when at the internal pH of the plant, 6.1 pH. In hydro it seems important to try to stay near this number, but in soil I have found that I don't need to worry about or adjust pH and I no longer worry about using unfiltered tap water. Bio nutes are an amazing advancement in our science and my current grow journal is proof of that.
thank you for your input.

what are pros and cons of bio nutes?

can you recommand me some decent liquid bio nutrients?

if the ph of the soil is 7.5 (stated on the bag) is watering with water of ph 7 good? or should i lower it slightly?

so let's say i switch to bio, i can just put nutes in water, and i'm good, nothing else right?

i have a well that's probably 2000 liters or more, and it's all rain water. is it better than tap water?

(this is how it works: it rains on the roof, the water goes down to the container.so on the way down it picks up everything that's on the roof, leaves, shit from birds etc. i'm guessing that's good right? it picks up nutriens and stuff?)
 
thank you for your input.

what are pros and cons of bio nutes?

can you recommand me some decent liquid bio nutrients?

if the ph of the soil is 7.5 (stated on the bag) is watering with water of ph 7 good? or should i lower it slightly?

so let's say i switch to bio, i can just put nutes in water, and i'm good, nothing else right?

i have a well that's probably 2000 liters or more, and it's all rain water. is it better than tap water?

(this is how it works: it rains on the roof, the water goes down to the container.so on the way down it picks up everything that's on the roof, leaves, shit from birds etc. i'm guessing that's good right? it picks up nutriens and stuff?)
So far I see no cons to bio nutes, the pros I listed in my previous post. The soil base ph is 7. This is so that you can water at 6.3 ph and then the soil will help the pH drift upwards as the soil dries, to its base pH. If you are watering at 7 pH you are doing this all wrong.
Megacrop is bio and allows easy implementation into water based grow systems. I suggest you read the entire megacrop thread to see what people are doing.
I have no clue what is in your well water... better is a very subjective term and I would need a lot more details.
 
(this is how it works: it rains on the roof, the water goes down to the container.so on the way down it picks up everything that's on the roof, leaves, shit from birds etc. i'm guessing that's good right? it picks up nutriens and stuff?)
My concern would lie in what material your roof is composed of. Leaching of chemicals from composite materials can be cause for concern.
For instance asphalt shingles contain lead.
 
My concern would lie in what material your roof is composed of. Leaching of chemicals from composite materials can be cause for concern.
For instance asphalt shingles contain lead.
bricks and some sort of metal for the drainage holes, i've always used it for the garden with no issues, ofc it's different because it's a potted plant so it's easier to hurt it.
 
bricks and some sort of metal for the drainage holes, i've always used it for the garden with no issues, ofc it's different because it's a potted plant so it's easier to hurt it.
If your roof was built prior to 1980 I would be concerned. Lead was used in lots of building materials.
And it is your health that I'm concerned about not the plants. Lead on the soils surface can become airborn if disturbed. The plant can also take up and store lead. Fruiting plants are less likely to take it up.
We have paper and stick type lead testers here. Do you have those where you are at?
They are cheap and would tell you right away if you have lead present. You simply rub them on the surface to be tested. If lead is present they will turn color.
 
If your roof was built prior to 1980 I would be concerned. Lead was used in lots of building materials.
And it is your health that I'm concerned about not the plants. Lead on the soils surface can become airborn if disturbed. The plant can also take up and store lead. Fruiting plants are less likely to take it up.
We have paper and stick type lead testers here. Do you have those where you are at?
They are cheap and would tell you right away if you have lead present. You simply rub them on the surface to be tested. If lead is present they will turn color.
no my house was build recently so it's all good... thing i'm concerned about tho, the well, was probably a gas tank before, turned into a well, and i'm not sure what the tank was made off... (i'm not sure, but a friend hinted that when he saw it, he told me that many people would turn those tanks into wells)
 
no my house was build recently so it's all good... thing i'm concerned about tho, the well, was probably a gas tank before, turned into a well, and i'm not sure what the tank was made off... (i'm not sure, but a friend hinted that when he saw it, he told me that many people would turn those tanks into wells)
May want to test that then. Lead used to be a common additive to gasoline.
Want to keep you and your grow safe.
 
May want to test that then. Lead used to be a common additive to gasoline.
Want to keep you and your grow safe.
wait not gasoline, natural gas, it's called metano here, not sure what you guys call it, the stuff that comes out your gas stove. i don't even know how to test it, i'd have to get down there (good luck) also that shit waters my apple trees, cherry's etc. hopefully it has no lead as you say.
 
wait not gasoline, natural gas, it's called metano here, not sure what you guys call it, the stuff that comes out your gas stove. i don't even know how to test it, i'd have to get down there (good luck) also that shit waters my apple trees, cherry's etc. hopefully it has no lead as you say.
We use propane mostly or natural gas.
You could test the soil around the plants that you have watered the longest with it. It will build up in the soil if it's there. Without accessing your tank this is the only way that I can think of testing for it. Some lead is in the soil naturally. You'll be looking for elevated levels.
 
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