Buds but no trichomes

[GreatLife4All]

You are using two UVB bulbs for only one plant, correct? How many watts are your 10% UVB fluoro bulbs?

I am sorry for not being clear my friend. So let me take some time to correctly answer.

I am researching UV-B. I found the same reptile lights that everyone else uses. They are designed for a terrarium and each holds a single 22 (or 24... don't remember) W T5 bulb. I put a single 10.0 UVB bulb in each of these and hung them directly over a single plant. I ran through the end of two different flowering regimes... both the 1 2 3 nutrient plan but the current is running Lucas (modified). I mention this to ensure that you understand that there are differences in nutrients - despite the fact that I am running clones.

I believe that I posted a link to the lights that I was using.

The problem that I encountered is that each light only has a spread of 20" and I am trying to put them into a 4x4 tent. Even with one on each wall (which I don't have room for), there is still a theoretical hole in coverage in the center of the tent. So I needed something more powerful.

Research led me to a salt water aquarium set up with a different type of light. This one holds two 24W T5 bulbs with a much better refllector. It has a reach of 24"... thus my problem is solved. It also has a very nice set of hanging wires and clamps which allow it to be easily hung from the frame of the tent. Here is a link to this light: Zoo Med AquaSun T5-HO Double Light Linear Fluorescent Hood, 24-Inch.

Please note that this is the same company that produces the other lights. Since they both use T5 lights - I simply put two of the 10 UVB lamps in one and two of the UVB 5 lamps in the other. Both reflectors are now aimed at the center of their respective tents - but the plant that I took a picture of is within 10" of the strongest light. The trichs shown developed literally over the course of two days (wish I had thought to take an initial picture)... but this is also the time that I would expect this to happen anyway... so it is hard to tell absolute from relative.

Anyway... this plant is receiving the heaviest dose of the heaviest light source that I have tried yet and is responding very quickly... maybe too quickly which is my fear. The plants under the 2 UVB 5 lights are a couple of weeks behind and have trichs early... but it is a very light covering. They look great and there have been no changes to the leaves that I can see.

The tent that I am worried about is the one where I am doing a strong dose only at the end of flowering.

The leaves are also showing phosphorus deficiency since putting this light over them... but it is all plants in the tent and I could see the initial stages of it before the light went up... an existing trend seems to be accelerating. Doesn't make sense as I have plenty of phosphorus and the pH is dead on at all times. I have never seen phosphorus deficiency running the version of Lucas that I am employing... but I also admit to changing a lot of things at once in search of the perfect bud...

If it IS too much and the plant is dieing anyway... does it matter if it works? If the plant crosses the finish line looking tired, bedraggled yet large and potent... didn't I win anyway?

I admit to confusing myself sometimes my friend...

 

[David Bowman]

Thanks for the clarification. The reason I asked is that I have the 26-watt CFL version of 10% UVB bulb which also has a 20" spread and I am interested in anyone's experiences with these lights. I'm still figuring out how many to place in the corners of my grow box to evenly cover all of my plants without burning them.

 

[GreatLife4All]

I will check later on to see what bulbs I have. I believe yours are a little stronger than mine.

Yea... I have now found plenty of information which states that UVB is great. But there is practically no information on how to implement this thought. Very strange indeed.

From reading Ed Rosenthal's explanation - I am led to believe it only helps late in flowering. He doesn't state this directly but leads you to that conclusion if you read between the lines. This is not a direct quote - but close "The most potent pot harvested is outdoor weed harvested when the local concentration of UVB from the sun is at it's peak" He gives a chart to explain when this is for various locations around the world. For northern california - I believe this is early August.... Colorado should be very similar.

So to duplicate what he is explaining for outdoors... would require an increasing concentration of UVB for the plants whole life - peaking right before harvest. I am trying to replicate this peaking effect late in flower at this point.

And he also explains that the recommendation for 10% is based on the locations where the strongest MJ is grown. These locations peak at about 11% of total light being UVB.

Stick around and we will learn together.

Thanks for the clarification. The reason I asked is that I have the 26-watt CFL version of 10% UVB bulb which also has a 20" spread and I am interested in anyone's experiences with these lights. I'm still figuring out how many to place in the corners of my grow box to evenly cover all of my plants without burning them.

 

[donpaul.p]

hi,
welcome to 420mag,

the uv argument will always go on and on, does it work dont it work, the only way to prove it either way is take clones, use uv on one and not on the other and compare the 2 from start to harvest, some strains produce lots of trichs and others dont produce lots,

it has a lot more to do with strain and humidity,

if you look where the world hash producing plants come from then these come from much drier climates that have really low humidity, so humidity plays a part in trich production, but to be brutally honest the strain is the most important factor, you can reduce trich production by having nute lock out or some def like i had which was cal/mag def, that badly stopped trich production on my kerala x skunk, so most of the bud was in the trim pile as it never recovered enough to do anything, but i produced some seeds so ill see how they turn out,

if you look on the net for strain hunters kings kush video you will see how they adjust the humidity throughout the grow and the lower it 2 or 3 times in flower, the only problem is most of us dont have a way of controlling humidity,

if your going to go with the uv option then you need to get the correct bulb and dont give the plants to much, its not something ive tried but ive read its best to not use it for long periods as it can cause problems to plant as much as it can cause problems to humans, i know we cant really compare the 2 but when i was researching this many months back thats the info i came across,

so its mainly to do with strain and having nutrients and grow conditions spot on, cool temps may lower trichs but again nothing proven either way, the only method ive seen that tends to suggest it works is lowering humidity a couple of times in flower,

ive grown strains like ak47 x uk cherry cheese that looks white as its that covered in trichs, yet my humidity was and still is pretty high compared with other parts of the world, so to me id have to say its all down to the strain, as i get plants covered in trichs and my humidity is pretty high,

some strains get frosty early in flower and others tend to get frosty about half way through, it all depends on genetics and pheno types from the strain your growing, i think if their was a proven method then we would all of heard about it and everyone would be using it, but you only need to look at many of the plants on this site to see that most if not all of it is to do with the strain, hardly anyone adds uv to their grow and they produce some very nice frosty buds,

when i was researching it a while back their was 3 suggestions on how to produce more trichs,
1, higher temps during flower, but you need maximum air flow for this to prevent stress to the plants, again un proven and i didnt follow up on researching this method as i cant control temps to well with my grow space,
2, uv, i did a lot of research into this and their was good arguments for both sides of the argument but no side by side proof on the net at all anywhere,
3, low humidity in flower, this was based on where the best trich strains grow and these are the hash making plants and these tend to grow in much lower humidity like desert type environments, plants in higher humidity areas are not used for making hash as much as trich production is not as high in these plants.

so theirs 3 options and ive not seen any side by side grows with clones to prove if any work, all i can go on is my own info and ive grown strains that are nearly white because their covered in trichs and this without having low humidity or using a uv light, so id have to say its mainly down to the strain and any extra you can get is not going to be much at all, until i find proof other wise i wont be adding or removing anything, if i had a dehumidifier then id use that but only because my humidity is pretty high at times so thats why id use it, but find that strain hunters video and that will show you what they change through their grow as temps are adjusted and humidty is lowered 3 times i think during flower,

 

[MaxVice]

"A garden is a grand teacher. It teaches patience and careful watchfulness; it teaches industry and thrift; above all it teaches entire trust." ~ Gertrude Jekyll

Growing good plants can be like growing good people. You can't baby them. Just give them what they need, and watch them do their thing. Patience and careful watchfulness... so important.
This may not be the most helpful comment, but sometimes when I'm in my garden I have to remember that I don't make flowers, I just help them grow. Helping someone walk is different than carrying them.

 

[LittleRex242]

After being around a few indoor grows I've seen a few strains that don't pump out trichomes until the last few weeks. This could be the case, and if it is youre in for a beautiful show!

Ty. This was the answer I was hoping to find... I'm into week 4 of flower and my g.g.lemon hasn't any trics yet. Doing the nutes like I would normally, buds are there, no trics. Weird looking. Like glorified hemp. Hope it pops. Thanks again.

 

[stinker]

"A garden is a grand teacher. It teaches patience and careful watchfulness; it teaches industry and thrift; above all it teaches entire trust." ~ Gertrude Jekyll

Growing good plants can be like growing good people. You can't baby them. Just give them what they need, and watch them do their thing. Patience and careful watchfulness... so important.
This may not be the most helpful comment, but sometimes when I'm in my garden I have to remember that I don't make flowers, I just help them grow. Helping someone walk is different than carrying them.

Max, I think its helpful and on point.