DB's First Grow, White Russian Clones and Mystery Bagseed

Ok, fricken yellow leaves again. Have solved ph, but still yellowing.

Fed well and centre leaves getting greener but lower still yellowed.

Heeeeeelp!

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On flip side the seed strain am now starting is Casey Jones...

Report found online:

Name: Casey Jones-

Grade: A+

Type: Hybrid (Sativa dominant)

Genetics: (Trainwreck x Thai) x Rezog’s Sour Diesel

Looks: Spear like super frosted nugs with forest and lime green foliage and bright orange stray hairs.- Looked like a football field covered in snow.

Smell: Very musty.- Would definitely stink your car up if you left it open.- Classic Sour Diesel characteristics.

Taste: Earthy taste mixed with a citrus pine tingle.- Hits expand quick in the lungs.- Hard to hold in for very long.

Buzz Type: This is where the Trainwreck side comes in.- High starts off quick and is almost too much to handle.- I watched the sun go down after blazing a bowl with a friend and we were laughing so hard because the sky looked like it was melting. Was tripping pretty hard for a long long time, and soon became so tranced a heavycouch lock came down.- Very heavy high, not really recommended for a first time smoker.
Buzz Length: Long. Really good effect for about 1-1.5 hours all together about 2-3.5 hours of good long stonage.- This stuff puts you in the clouds for a very long time.- If you have anything planned I would not suggest smoking this.- You will quickly lose motivation to even move to get a snack.

Overall: Very Amazing!- I really am enjoying this stuff.- Kinda disappointed he would only get me 3 grams.- He had said he was already losing money because it was going to be sold for $30 a gram.-
 
Sorry to sound callous over media, but special soil is supposed to be easier.
I never could figure out just what exactly is in there. With coir, I know.
I no longer check pH, or ppm concentration; I measure then pour.
My city fixes my water, chemists sell me nutes. Results speak truely
Light, air, and water are all more critical than salts or shit for food.
 
My knee-jerk to problems is fundemental. Flush and freshen the media, and assure that the air moves and is 'right'. My other answer is to kill everything that crawls or flies with poison.
:goodluck:

The pics seemed to show that there could be a MG or N issue, so fed her with PH'd water. My method of PHing is perhaps a bad idea also, using the "Proper PH 6.5" powder... apparently not to be used in aquariums with plants as it can encourage algae? May have to stop dropping the tap PH with vinegar or summat, but there's def something wrong.

Last time I flushed them and they still went crispy... that was down to PH I though... this time I'm trying something else first, then a flush again.

Can there be a lot of Na in the water, perhaps?

Can something be locking something else out?

Grrrrr.. the complications. But hey the smoke is def worth it!!

Need more to make hash and stop smoking plant material!
 
Also, air moves regularly, not sure how right it is though...

Tent is in the bedroom so figured would get plenty of CO2 from our breath. Can smoke make them ill, if we smoke there? Could it be lack of "fresh" air? If so how can I get it in? It's been down to -10 here recently and I can't have tubes up to the window without someone spotting it's not aircon weather.
 
Oh, and finally to the last point... (Said the smoke was good :)) doesn't appear to be anything crawling, but I did have mites again recently. May have to smoke bomb the tent and get new growing media etc for the move. Want to limit the risk of bringing them and having a fresh start... a whole room just for my garden, oooh yay!
 
Sorry, cameraphone pics, not great resolution

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Only good news is that my attempts to use colloidal silver to make feminised seeds is coming along nicely.

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I thought that perhaps the plant is using a lot more nutes than I've been giving it, hence the yellowing, but really not sure wtf is going on.
 
My city water has 240 ppm. Medium hard, and I make no allowances nor add amendments. I've been following directions on GenHydro Flora bottles, but all brands are more alike than different. H&G is certainly not magic, just as good but twice the price.
Get and read a monthly or annual report from your water supplier.
Understand it. Don't buy an RO until you do ;)

What is your RH?
 
luks like a mag or cal defect, or your RH 2 low.
how is your air flow setup (open window, passive or active?) also is your exsaust also been blowen into same room ?
the only time i get yellowing leaves is the main fan leafs at the end of flower when on there flush, how far along is your girl thats sick ?

try a good flush with a drop of superthrive, see if that help's could be salt build up in the soil.:thumb:

oh! yea its gr8 haveing a full room for the girls, they shall be very happy.
 
Cheers, both.

I am thinking that RH is a good point... I've reset my temp/humidity meter and will check it tomorrow.

My city water has 240 ppm. Medium hard, and I make no allowances nor add amendments. I've been following directions on GenHydro Flora bottles, but all brands are more alike than different. H&G is certainly not magic, just as good but twice the price.
Get and read a monthly or annual report from your water supplier.
Understand it. Don't buy an RO until you do ;)

What is your RH?

Ok, cool... Was thinking all the extra calcium was locking out the N or MG, when it could be RH all along.

luks like a mag or cal defect, or your RH 2 low.
how is your air flow setup (open window, passive or active?) also is your exsaust also been blowen into same room ?

Hi, fan is blowing out air from the tent, and has a passive intake that has a small extractor fan pulling in air.

Yes, exhaust blows into the same room... bad thing? Not much I can do here about that :s

the only time i get yellowing leaves is the main fan leafs at the end of flower when on there flush, how far along is your girl thats sick ?

She's about 3 weeks in I think, started flowering her just before I harvested. Will have to check back and post.

RH does make sense as I had the mite issues before which were partly from too much humidity and lack of preventative measure, and I turned the fan on for longer and removed the water receptacle and cloth... grrrrr.

What would you suggest are a suitable min/max for humidity?

Also is it a killer that my plant is in the same room as us and tends to mostly get recycled air? The door to the bedroom is open most of the day so air cycles from the apartment to some degree.
 
Showing now at 39%...

Gave her a little mist and have raised the cooltube a little for now.

Fan is set to 15 on, 15 off. Fan can apparently move 175 metres cubed per hour... so effectively half that. Am in a DR80 tent so that seems more than enough.
 
Feck.

Originally Posted by SmokeyMacPot

Daytime conditions should be 70-80 degrees without co2, 80-90 degrees with co2 until the last two weeks when daytime temps should be kept between 70-80 and co2 can be reduced to adjust for the lower metabolism. Night temperatures should be kept above 60 degrees to prevent stress. It is preferrable during flowering to have a night temperature drop of 10-20 degrees to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation.

I find that low humidity causes stress on plants. I recommend 50-60% humidity until the final 2 weeks of flowering. At this point, the humidity should be lowered as much as possible to encourage the plant to seal and protect itself with additional resin. (I am able to get the humidity to go as low as 31%) I have been able to frost things up considerably this way. The higher humidity levels prior to final ripening reduce salt levels within the plant tissue and encourage healthy, more lush growth. Author: MisterIto
 
Thanks mate. Wifey and I just trimmed her back and took 5 clones from the small off cuts... Clonex and root riot blocks... I heat flowering clones take longer to root, but will eventually.

Figured getting her involved can only be a good thing.

Practicing my cloning is good too :)

2 Casey Jones popped and growing, moving in 4 weeks can't wait for the extra space
 
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