First Grow - Inside

[pandorum]

What strain is it?no clue
Is it Indica, Sativa or Hybrid? What percentages?also no clue
Is it in Veg or Flower stage?veggie
If in Veg... For how long?
Indoor or outdoor?indoor
Soil or Hydro?soil
Size of light?150w
Is it aircooled?yes
Temp of Room/cab?75ish
Any Pests ?maybe found a cob web but only one
How often are you watering?myabe once a day
Type and strength of ferts used?18-21-18

this is my first time growing so bare with me i got these two plants i rescued from a guy he was growing them outside and not taking care of them at all,so i decided to take them off his hands.

anywayz i built a grow box my self its about 6ft tall i used aluminum foil on the wallz going to replace with white paint later on. i have a 150w(i think) full spectrum light.

the guy had no clue how far along either of them were along and neither do i, I also think one of them is in flowering stage, and i want to revert it to veggie state with 18 on 6 off becuase its only like 6" tall.

well here is some pics and btw i just started adding nutrients to it they guy hadn't added any to them when i got them

plant#1

plant #2 this is the one i think started flowering but ive never don this before

just some random pictures of the plants

tell me what you guys think

 

[Ganjahoarder]

Re: First grow-inside

That's def a bug prob...maybe thrips.

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

That's def a bug prob...maybe thrips.

how do i get rid of them?

 

[253Chiefin]

Re: First grow-inside

well are you physicially seeing bugs? and yea ones flowered just do what u said and keep it at 18/6 light cycle. ive had alot of spots on my plants similar to yours and they wernt bugs BUT im only tossing that out there becasue spots that bad would have a bad infestation of bugs and i dont see 1 in sight. keep an eye out and search under the leaves and post an update of what u find. if you do have them go some neem oil. neem oil seems to kick all kids of ass on bugs

 

[Ganjahoarder]

Re: First grow-inside

how do i get rid of them?

I got rid of mine w/ neem oil. Spray everyday for a week...remember to get the undersides as well.

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

i don't see any bugs there was a Caterpillar in the box but i got rid of it because they were outside plants and is it OK to to cut off those leafs with the holes and discoloration?

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

pandorum said:

i don't see any bugs there was a Caterpillar in the box but i got rid of it because they were outside plants and is it OK to to cut off those leafs with the holes and discoloration?

If you took these plants from outside, they may not have bugs on them. A lot of bugs munch on leaves and then split. Some may have laid eggs, so keep an eye out!

I suspect that all the leaf damage is from before you brought them indoors.

You can certainly cut off the affected leaves. This might be a good idea because there may be insect eggs on them. As long as the plants have some leaves, especially the newly forming shoots, you're fine. I've relentlessly pruned most of the fan leaves off my current crop and they didn't care in the least. These plants are sort of like Medusa: cut one leaf off and two will grow back.

I can't believe the little one is flowering already. Precocious little bitch! Definitely leave her under 16/8 and she will start to revegetate.

What kind of soil are you using? Does it have any nutrients in it? Is it light and airy, i.e., does it have something like perlite in it to keep it from compacting too much? From your pictures, it looks like it does.

Some advice:

Don't water every day. Wait until the pots start to dry out (they'll start feeling light) before you water them again. The roots need oxygen to grow properly and if you water your plants everyday, this will prevent oxygen from getting into the soil and your plants will be stunted and listless.

Don't overfertilize. That is a big newbie mistake. Once a week is more than enough. 18-21-18 is very concentrated stuff. For example, the nutrients I use for vegetation is 3-2-4. The proportions are fine, just the strength is high. The one I use requires 1 tablespoon per gallon. As yours is roughly six times the concentration, you should use

1 tablespoon / 6 = 1/2 tsp per gallon​

Finally, some essential sugars are nice as well. Buy some Blackstrap Molasses. Try to get the unsulphured kind. The sulphur won't kill your plants, but it isn't necessary. Try to find Blackstrap Molasses, not stuff like Fancy Molasses or Refined Molasses. Many of the larger supermarkets will carry it. If not, you can find it at any health food store. It only costs about $6 for a reasonbly good-sized jar.

Blackstrap Molasses is the molasses that is collected from the bottom of molasses settling tanks. It is very high in mineral content (which is good!) and, if you use it, your plants shouldn't have any mineral deficiecies. It also has simple essential sugars that will promote your plants' growth. Add 1 tsp per gallon to your regular nutrient mix (i.e., the 1/2 tsp of the 18-21-18).

If you do this, your plants should look completely healthy within two weeks (assuming there isn't an insect outbreak).

Remember to post lots of pictures! People just love to look at pictures of pot plants and you will have a bigger audience if you post often.

Good luck!

P.S. Is your nick from the Sci-Fi movie of the same name? I'm a big fan of sci-fi but I haven't seen this one (to be honest, I've never even heard of it!). Is it any good?

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

pandorum said:


If you took these plants from outside, they may not have bugs on them. A lot of bugs munch on leaves and then split. Some may have laid eggs, so keep an eye out!

I suspect that all the leaf damage is from before you brought them indoors.

You can certainly cut off the affected leaves. This might be a good idea because there may be insect eggs on them. As long as the plants have some leaves, especially the newly forming shoots, you're fine. I've relentlessly pruned most of the fan leaves off my current crop and they didn't care in the least. These plants are sort of like Medusa: cut one leaf off and two will grow back.

I can't believe the little one is flowering already. Precocious little bitch! Definitely leave her under 16/8 and she will start to revegetate.

What kind of soil are you using? Does it have any nutrients in it? Is it light and airy, i.e., does it have something like perlite in it to keep it from compacting too much? From your pictures, it looks like it does.

Some advice:

Don't water every day. Wait until the pots start to dry out (they'll start feeling light) before you water them again. The roots need oxygen to grow properly and if you water your plants everyday, this will prevent oxygen from getting into the soil and your plants will be stunted and listless.

Don't overfertilize. That is a big newbie mistake. Once a week is more than enough. 18-21-18 is very concentrated stuff. For example, the nutrients I use for vegetation is 3-2-4. The proportions are fine, just the strength is high. The one I use requires 1 tablespoon per gallon. As yours is roughly six times the concentration, you should use

1 tablespoon / 6 = 1/2 tsp per gallon​

Finally, some essential sugars are nice as well. Buy some Blackstrap Molasses. Try to get the unsulphured kind. The sulphur won't kill your plants, but it isn't necessary. Try to find Blackstrap Molasses, not stuff like Fancy Molasses or Refined Molasses. Many of the larger supermarkets will carry it. If not, you can find it at any health food store. It only costs about $6 for a reasonbly good-sized jar.

Blackstrap Molasses is the molasses that is collected from the bottom of molasses settling tanks. It is very high in mineral content (which is good!) and, if you use it, your plants shouldn't have any mineral deficiecies. It also has simple essential sugars that will promote your plants' growth. Add 1 tsp per gallon to your regular nutrient mix (i.e., the 1/2 tsp of the 18-21-18).

If you do this, your plants should look completely healthy within two weeks (assuming there isn't an insect outbreak).

Remember to post lots of pictures! People just love to look at pictures of pot plants and you will have a bigger audience if you post often.

Good luck!

P.S. Is your nick from the Sci-Fi movie of the same name? I'm a big fan of sci-fi but I haven't seen this one (to be honest, I've never even heard of it!). Is it any good?

i maybe under watering my plants idk every time i look at the one that hasn't started flowering, after waking her up ill stick my finger in there about 2" or so and it will be bone dry everyday, i give it about half a water bottle think that's to little? also the leafs are drooping pretty bad on it but the other one looks great

i use 1/4 of a table spoon in a gallon of nutrients it sayd 1/2 for indoor so i cut that in half, and i have no idea what soil the person used in it.

and btw it is a movie and an awsome one.

oh one more thing ill add more pictures tommorow after prune

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

Hey Pandorum,

i use 1/4 of a table spoon in a gallon of nutrients it sayd 1/2 for indoor so i cut that in half, and i have no idea what soil the person used in it.

Wow, that was the correct dosage!

i maybe under watering my plants idk every time i look at the one that hasn't started flowering, after waking her up ill stick my finger in there about 2" or so and it will be bone dry everyday, i give it about half a water bottle think that's to little? also the leafs are drooping pretty bad on it but the other one looks great

You definitely do not want to underwater your plant. That is one of the worst things you can do. I'm surprised she needs to be watered every day. The pot looks big enough to water for a couple of days. If the pot feels light and if the soil feels bone dry, then by all means, water her. Drooping leaves are usually a sign (but not always) of underwatering.

Try using more water, i.e., instead of just "topping" up the pot a little whenever it feels dry, use a lot of water. If a bit runs out the bottom of the pot, that's OK. In other words, when the pot dries out, use a lot of water until the pot feels "full." As I said, don't worry if water leaks out the bottom. Some soils (and I think you have one of them) can hold a lot of water because they have something like peat moss that can absorb water.

You may find that if you use a fair bit of water, then wait 15 minutes - 1 hour, you can add more water once the water already there gets absorbed by the peat moss of other components that retain moisture.

If she still wants to be watered every day, then I guess she needs it.

I was thinking about your cutting off the critter-eaten leaves and I believe it would be a good idea to get rid of most of them because of the potential bug infestation problem. A healthy plant (and believe it or not, yours is on the road to health) can easily replace and fan leaves that are cut off.

The logic goes like this: the size of the roots and leaf canopy (all the leaves) are directly proportional ,i.e., if you have a large root system and you cut off a lot of leaves, the root system can support more foliage, so the leaves grow back quickly. Conversely, if you grow a good-sized leaf canopy, the roots will grow enough to support the newly-fromed leaves.

Just to give you an idea of how much you can trim, look at these:

Trimmed Leaves - Nov 27

Trimmed Leaves - Dec 6

Trimmed Leaves - Dec 11

Here's a picture of the crop after the December 6th trim:

Crop After Dec 6 Trim

Post some pictures after the trim, so we can see the results. Water the plants about an hour before you prune them, so they will have a reservoir of water built up to help them recover.

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

this is about 2 days after prune and about 4 days since the last pictures
and sorry about the brightness couldn't take the pictures that well on my phone

also could someone tell me why those small leaves are so curled like that idk if that supposed to be like that

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

forgot to ask but what do you think the yield will be for these 2 plants my friend says id only get 1 ounce out of the one that is already started to flower but ive seen some other people who get like 4ounces from each plant

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

Leaves turning down is usually (not always) a sign of overwatering. When you water your plants, give them a good soak and let the pots almost dry out. Since you're using plastic pots, the pot should feel very light when you pick it up.

If you overwater the plants, oxygen will not reach the roots and the roots will stagnate and even start to rot. The roots need oxygen to grow.

As far as yield goes, if you let the plant get to be big enough (around 3 feet or so in height), you can get 4 ounzes from each plant.

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

on plant number one the leaves are starting to turn yellow again, ive been giving them nutrients any clue why?

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

Leaves turning yellow is a nitrogen deficiency. Two questions:

1) Are the top or bottom leaves turning yellow.

2) What are you using for soil? Is it a commercial mix? If so, what is the name and what does it contain (for example, compost, perilite, etc.)

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

Leaves turning yellow is a nitrogen deficiency. Two questions:

1) Are the top or bottom leaves turning yellow.

2) What are you using for soil? Is it a commercial mix? If so, what is the name and what does it contain (for example, compost, perilite, etc.)

1. the tops are turning yellow
2. sadly i dont know

if you want i can try to post a picture of both the leaves and the soil tommorow
but the other plant is strong and healthy havent had one issue with leaves turning yellow

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

if you want i can try to post a picture of both the leaves and the soil tommorow
but the other plant is strong and healthy havent had one issue with leaves turning yellow

Yes, please post some pictures of the affected plant. Lower leaves turning yellow is a sure sign of a nitrogen deficiency. Upper yellow leaves is harder to diagnose - it could be a sulpur or calcium deficiency. It's hard to tell.

Did the plants come with the soil that they are in?

If the soil is bad, you'll need to transplant. If the soil is OK, you might need to flush the soil. After you post some pictures, I can get a better idea.

One way to tell if your soil is "airy" enough is to see how it reacts what you water it. Does the water sink quickly into the soil or does it pool on the surface and run down the sides of the pot without penetrating the surface? If it's the latter, then you have bad soil. A good soil will immediately absorb water when you add it. (It may run out the bottom before it can "fluff up" enough to hold the water.)

The yellowing may be a sign that your plant is not receiving enough oxygen.

So, as there are lots of possible causes, it's best to wait for some photos.

 

[pandorum]

Re: First grow-inside

well heres the new photos

not to sure about the watering part i wanna say it pools the goes outsides cause when i watered it last night i did half a bottle and most of it came out of bottom

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

Panda Bear,

The color quality of your photos makes it hard to analyse your plant's problem, but it looks like a nitrogen deficiency. Have the pots every felt light? Since you're using plastic pots, when they're nearly dry, you should be able to pick up the pot by one edge and it won't even bend the plastic. It should feel light as a feather.

Almost all the weight of a pot is from the water in the soil. When it's dry, the pot should almost "float" off the floor. If you've never noticed this, then almost certainly you have soil that is compressed and compacted.

Some plants like this kind of soil, house plants, etc. These plants have thick roots designed to burrow into the soil. Marijuana, on the other hand, is a weed and its roots are slender, which makes it ideal for getting a foothold, I mean roothold, in shallow soil.

So, unless you're a potato farmer in Iowa, you need to get rid of that soil. Many companies make soil designed for marijuana. (They just don't say so explicitly.)

Here is a description of what your soil shoud be and some manufacturers who make it:

The basic component of soilless mixes is sphagnum peat moss. The various amendments added to each mix include , coir, vermiculite, dolomitic limestone, fertilizer, trace elements, perlite, wetting agents, gypsum, rock wool, calcine clay, and pine bark. There are several manufacturers who blend these materials together to produce a range of special purpose mixes for greenhouses, nurseries, and gardeners. These mixes are quite variable across North America because of shipping costs. That is, the constituents are variable in nature, and there use will be heaviest in the region of their origin. Some of the popular brands include Canna, Fox Farm, Terra-Lite, Metro Mix, Sunshine, and Pro-Mix. Each mix comes in several grades, the difference lying in the percentage of each of the amendments. This article is directed to recreational gardeners who are sowing seeds indoors or in a hobby greenhouse, are looking for the best seed sowing medium and the latest technique.

The sphagnum peat most is very important. It prevents the soil from compacting around the roots, letting it breathe. Coco coir is also a nice medium and you may be able to find it at a local nursery garden store.

When you get some, immediately transplant your gals. Put a bunch of newpapers on the floor, upend your pots and get the plants out. Shake out as much of the old soil as possible and transplant. The roots should all be pale white and there should be no brown or some rotting patches. If there are, cut them off with a knife or pair of scissors. Some growers cut off half the roots when they transplant, so don't freak out worrying about hurting your plants.

If you want to see what this looks like, check out my journal. Toward the end, I started talking about coco coir and I showed a bunch of pictures from my last transplant. You can see how I treated a plant that is very much like yours and how much she has recovered since then.

If it's going to take a while to get some new soil (you're ordering by mail or something like that), you can do the following in the meantime to give your gal some relief (you can do this for both plants if you like):

Although your soil may feel dry on top, it is wet and compacted below the soil and your plant is suffering from lack of oxygen and overwatering.

Over Watering:

The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.

Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.

This is from the

Plant Abuse Chart​

The Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) will bring oxygen to the roots. Without oxygen, the plant will eventually die.

Pick up some 3% hydrogen peroxide at your local pharmacy. You might even have some lying around your medicine cabinet. If you can only find stronger strength peroxide, dilute it to 3%.

Once you have made a 3% solution do the following:

Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings.

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

Panda Bear,

The color quality of your photos makes it hard to analyse your plant's problem, but it looks like a nitrogen deficiency. Have the pots every felt light? Since you're using plastic pots, when they're nearly dry, you should be able to pick up the pot by one edge and it won't even bend the plastic. It should feel light as a feather.

Almost all the weight of a pot is from the water in the soil. When it's dry, the pot will feel light as a feather. If you've never noticed this, then almost certainly you have soil that is compressed and compacted.

Some plants like this kind of soil, house plants, etc. These plants have thick roots designed to burrow into the soil. Marijuana, on the other hand, is a weed and its roots are slender, which makes it ideal for getting a foothold,I mean roothold in shallow soil.

So, unless you're a potato farmer in Iowa, you need to get rid of that soil. Many companies make soil designed for marijuana. (They just don't say so, explicitly.)

Here is a description of what your soil shoud be and some manufacturers who make it:

The basic component of soilless mixes is sphagnum peat moss. The various amendments added to each mix include , coir, vermiculite, dolomitic limestone, fertilizer, trace elements, perlite, wetting agents, gypsum, rock wool, calcine clay, and pine bark. There are several manufacturers who blend these materials together to produce a range of special purpose mixes for greenhouses, nurseries, and gardeners. These mixes are quite variable across North America because of shipping costs. That is, the constituents are variable in nature, and there use will be heaviest in the region of their origin. Some of the popular brands include Canna, Fox Farm, Terra-Lite, Metro Mix, Sunshine, and Pro-Mix. Each mix comes in several grades, the difference lying in the percentage of each of the amendments. This article is directed to recreational gardeners who are sowing seeds indoors or in a hobby greenhouse, are looking for the best seed sowing medium and the latest technique.

The sphagnum peat most is very important. It prevents the soil from compacting around the roots, letting it breathe. Coco coir is also a nice medium and you may be able to find it a local nursery garden store.

When you get some, immediately transplant your gals. Put a bunch of newpapers on the floor, upend your pots and get the plants out. Shake out as much of the old soil as possible and transplant. The roots should all be pale white and there should be no brown or some rotting patches. If there are, cut them off with a knife or pair of scissors. Some growers cut off half the roots when they transplant, so don't freak out worrying about hurting your plants.

If you want to see what this looks like, check out my journal. Toward the end, I started talking about coco coir and I showed a bunch of pictures from my last transplant. You can see how I treated a plant that is very much like yours and how much she has recovered since then.

If it's going to take a while to get some new soil (you're ordering by mail or something like that), you can do the following in the meantime to give your gal some relief (you can do this for both plants if you like):

Although your soil may feel dry on top, it is wet and compacted below the soil and your plant is suffering from lack of oxygen and overwatering.

Over Watering:

The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.

Don't be throw off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.

This is from the

Plant Abuse Chart​

The Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) will bring oxygen to the roots. Without oxygen, the plant will eventually die.

Oick up some 3% hydrogen peroxide at your local pharmacy. You might even have some lying around your medicine cabinet. If you can only find stronger stength peroxide, dilute it to 3%.

Once you have made a 3% solution do the following:

Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings.

 

[ggrant]

Re: First grow-inside

OOPS! Sorry for the double post. My browser got stuck, so I posted again in case it didn't make it through the ether.