wildbill38
New Member
Looks like they got you straighting out.
I hope the plants are looking better.
I hope the plants are looking better.
First Solo Grow - DWC Kosher Kush
- Thread starter AlphaPrime
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #82
AlphaPrime
New Member
Just calls my local hydro shop and they currently don't have any DM Zone in stock - would Microbial work as a substitute ?
And sorry that I haven't been able to post an update yet - got called in to work early and will be posting pics and progress report as soon as I get home in a couple of hours !
AP
- Thread starter
- #83
AlphaPrime
New Member
Definitely been receiving lots of helpful advice ! Can't wait to see what the girls look like when I get home from work !
Sky Rocket
New Member
I've use DM nutes for a while and are happy with them. I use add.27 and zone with the DM base nutes for my current and past dwc mother plants. Below is a cut and paste from Dutch Master site on why they don't recommend the use of mycorrhizae.
BENEFICIAL BACTERIA:
Why we DO NOT Recommend the use of Beneficial Mycorrhizae (Fungi) and Bacteria in Hydroponics!
Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi that penetrate the roots of most plants in nature. This symbiotic relationship is beneficial in that the plant provides sugars to the fungi, and the fungi enhance nutrient uptake for the plant. There are two major groups of mycorrhizae: ectomycorrhyzae and endomychorrhizae. The 'ectos' do not actually penetrate the cells of the roots, but are found between the intercellular spaces. Ectos have been found to be able to utilize a range of organic compounds such as proteins, peptides and amino acids (1, 5, 7,). However, these fungi are restricted to coniferous tree species (gymnosperms) and Ericacious (heath/ bog) species where soil breakdown of amino acids is minimal (1, 2, 5).
Endomycorrhizal fungi aid in water and nutrient uptake, especially phosphorus, but do not aid in mineralization of organic matter, and thus have not been found to take up organic nutrients (1-7). Unlike ectos, 'endos' invade root cortical cell walls and can form branched structures called arbuscules which are efficient sites of exchange between fungus and root cell. Endos are primarily associated with herbaceous plants (angiosperms) commonly grown in greenhouses and hydroponic systems (1-7).
In hydroponics, there would be little value to be obtained from mycorrhizal associations in this situation. Their value is to provide improved uptake of water and minerals from the soil / growing media. In a hydroponic setting, the plant has constant access to all the water and dissolved minerals it needs. The mycorrhizal fungi would do little to improve on a root constantly bathed in water and minerals, however may aid in nutrient uptake under plant stress and low root biomass (3, 8). Most hydroponically grown plants are of angiosperm origin, and since endomycorrhizae are not known to take up whole organic molecules in any situation, these fungi would not benefit in the uptake of a root based supplement product containing these substances. Many products make claims of enhanced growth and yield from beneficial microorganisms added to the nutrient solution along with organic fertilizers. This phenomenon can be attributed to the enzymatic secretions of these fungi into the solution to breakdown organic matter into its essential elements for uptake and transport to the roots (8, 9). Essentially, it is the same as adding extra fertilizer.
BENEFICIAL BACTERIA:
Why we DO NOT Recommend the use of Beneficial Mycorrhizae (Fungi) and Bacteria in Hydroponics!
Mycorrhizae are beneficial fungi that penetrate the roots of most plants in nature. This symbiotic relationship is beneficial in that the plant provides sugars to the fungi, and the fungi enhance nutrient uptake for the plant. There are two major groups of mycorrhizae: ectomycorrhyzae and endomychorrhizae. The 'ectos' do not actually penetrate the cells of the roots, but are found between the intercellular spaces. Ectos have been found to be able to utilize a range of organic compounds such as proteins, peptides and amino acids (1, 5, 7,). However, these fungi are restricted to coniferous tree species (gymnosperms) and Ericacious (heath/ bog) species where soil breakdown of amino acids is minimal (1, 2, 5).
Endomycorrhizal fungi aid in water and nutrient uptake, especially phosphorus, but do not aid in mineralization of organic matter, and thus have not been found to take up organic nutrients (1-7). Unlike ectos, 'endos' invade root cortical cell walls and can form branched structures called arbuscules which are efficient sites of exchange between fungus and root cell. Endos are primarily associated with herbaceous plants (angiosperms) commonly grown in greenhouses and hydroponic systems (1-7).
In hydroponics, there would be little value to be obtained from mycorrhizal associations in this situation. Their value is to provide improved uptake of water and minerals from the soil / growing media. In a hydroponic setting, the plant has constant access to all the water and dissolved minerals it needs. The mycorrhizal fungi would do little to improve on a root constantly bathed in water and minerals, however may aid in nutrient uptake under plant stress and low root biomass (3, 8). Most hydroponically grown plants are of angiosperm origin, and since endomycorrhizae are not known to take up whole organic molecules in any situation, these fungi would not benefit in the uptake of a root based supplement product containing these substances. Many products make claims of enhanced growth and yield from beneficial microorganisms added to the nutrient solution along with organic fertilizers. This phenomenon can be attributed to the enzymatic secretions of these fungi into the solution to breakdown organic matter into its essential elements for uptake and transport to the roots (8, 9). Essentially, it is the same as adding extra fertilizer.
Hozona
Well-Known Member
Why I sent this your direction X...you have used what he needed to know about...and I was adding it as directed in my Aero/NFT I just took down...Thanks for being out there and accessable to us all my friend!
No. They are not the same thing. I will go ahead and add my endorsement of DM Zone. I've started using it, and my res, roots, and plants all look great!
- Thread starter
- #87
AlphaPrime
New Member
Sooo - time for an update -
Sorry about lack of pics or update provided yesterday - didnt get home from work until extremely late and next shift started early so didnt have time to provide anything meaningful
The plants did look a little more perky and even more so today - not back to how they were 3 days ago but they do appear to be making progress - will post pics in a couple hours.
Took the time to inspect the root zone - there appears to be significant new root growth coming from upper 2/3rds of netpot which i suppose is good news. However, the bottom of the netpots on several plants do have some slime deposits which im guessing are attributable to root rot.
Now im not sure, considering this is my first grow, whether i should battle on and try to cure the problem as a lot of research has led me to believe it may just be better to start from scratch ?
As far as trying to kill the rot goes - i came across the following on a different forum :
----------------SYSTEM--------- BELOW-------------------------
The root rot thread I started (my sig) has gotten me a ton of questions and rep. But it is a hard read cause I posted the info as I found it and not in any order. I used it as more of journal than a guide or instructions. So I have also gotten a few complaints because of it.
I lost 3 grows to rot and on the 3rd I got pissed and decided I was gonna learn to beat it. Over the course of 9mths I infected 3 plants over and over and tried all the products and info I could find. 2 died and the 3rd is in this grow now.
Root rot lives everywhere, in the air, our skin, pets, and the worst gnats. Carpet, wood, plastic, rubber all holds it and you can’t get it out. If you create a sterile room then no problems but how many of us can do that? Not many.
Hydrotron, if you buy the good stuff then you’re alright but if you get stuff from discount hydro supply house then you’ve got problems. Bleach won’t sterilize it no matter what you do. Ya could run it in a pressure cooker at 250F for 30min and that would do it but short of that your not gonna it get sterile. Why? Because like most items on this Planet rock is porous and those holes allow spores and viruses to live safe and snug.
Side note when I do use hydrotron I always clean it then let is soak in PH water at 5.0 for 48hrs (no I’m not gonna argue this point, it works for me and I don’t have to PH my grow very often). Bottom line, get it clean and hope for the best and never go cheap on any grow rocks.
H2O2, This stuff sells or the product wouldn’t be on the market but honestly I have no idea why. I’ve never been able to get it to work for me in any way. Its really good to burn holes in stuff or build homemade fun things that go boom, but other than that I find it of no use for the cost of the product.
Matter fact Voodoo Juice, Dutch Master Zone, Micro Maddness and many others have been given to me by my local hydro store with the promise of a cure and none worked. My idea of work is the sh*t is dead, gone, BYE, BYE. This never happened with these products. You can use them as a preventive measure but once the infection sets in there use is limited.
So over the course of 9mths I got a system in place that worked for me and the best part is it is very low cost. Also, I know that many growers are very clean and work very hard to stay that way. I’m sorry to tell you but 1ce you get the rot the spores get into everything, tubes, lines, air pumps, pots, any and all medium, water fill and drain lines and so on. If you want a clean room then you have to make one, new equipment, supplies, paint, floor and then find a way to keep your hands and cloths sterile at all times. Yes, I do this very thing everyday at work, but at home, in a hidden grow room? No way!!
Lastly remember, once you get infected it’s always there, you’re always infected. This is a fact of the natural world. It don’t matter if the infection is blood borne or otherwise, the spore, virus and such will remain. It stays present in very low numbers waiting to grow when environment is ripe and we humans think were safe. It doesn’t matter that you have had 6 grows to harvest since the rot hit either. It will still be there. Think of it like HIV and you'll get the idea.
So the following is what after 9mths I found that worked for me. And of course this is for hydro only.
Get some store bought peroxide and 2 spray bottles. Dump the res and clean it with the peroxide first then with alcohol (rubbing, or vodka, both work) using a scrub brush to clean inside and out. Remove all fittings, lines tubs and disguard. Throw air stones and lines away and replace with new. Most air pumps have some sort of filter, find it and pull it out and replace with cotton swab.
I use 4in net pots in BB’s with a 4x4 rockwool block so I run 3 full cups of pure peroxide pouring it from the top so it runs right threw the block. Then fill 1 bottle with peroxide and spray the roots till all the rot is gone. If the infection is early I have also sprayed alcohol right on the roots to no ill effect. It will dry the roots out so if you do this have a bucket of water nearby and set the roots in it for bout 5 min after treatment, this will keep the roots from burning and drying out.
Now comes the ruff part. Separate the infected roots from the healthy ones and cut all the nasty roots off. Keep spraying and cutting till all the infection has been cut away.
Note; (This is also a good time to mention that peroxide doesn’t kill anything! It cleans threw a process called cavitation and adds extra O2 to water. That’s all peroxide does)
Then refill bucket with adjusted PH water then add 1 cup of peroxide per gallon. Drop plant in and wait. Inspect to make sure no light from anywhere is getting into the res and that includes your medium. Add no nutes they help feed the rot. And if you can fill the res to the bottom of the pot. Rot needs air to live if you fill the bucket full then the only way it can get air is from the stone and that is where it will grow if it comes back. This is helpful because all you have to do is pull the stone and throw it away. The rot is sneaky not smart. The use of rockwool helps here because it holds a lot of O2. After 3 days if the rot doesn’t come back then you win. Fill res with a 50/50 nute mix. Do not increase nutes till you see new root growth. If it does come back repeat all steps above. If you’re willing to fight and wait you will beat it so long as you add NO NUTES of any kind. I’ve had plants recover in as little as 5 days.
The plant will pull nutes from the lower leafs first to help keep itself alive. Root rot will show all the signs of a nute overdose or in some cases nute def and even PH damage. This is normal so don’t freak out.
Spray your PH meter and all tools with alcohol to kill it to because it will live on the tools and then infect other plants. If you can use 90% pure alcohol.
Also you’ll find many growers and companies that will tell you that peroxide is hard on the root zone and they are in fact right.
But if you do nothing the plant will die. Also if you do want to use it for extra O2 (not killing the rot) then let it sit for 24hrs before you use it. This will allow all the bad crap that hurts our plants to evaporate and the extra O2 will stay. The reason is because peroxide is very unstable and it dissipates very quickly.
I’ve been in many heated Rambo like threads concerning this issue. The steps above work for me and that is that. I understand there are many ways to fight this sh*t, I’m by no means the alpha or omega on the rot. If you have issue with anything I posted here then please post your comments but please don't post crap like "this won't work, or your system is crappy, H2O2 does work why you say it don't.
I've had more positive replies to this info by far than neg. While this system isn't the only way, myself and others know for a fact that it works.
If a baby plant or non-rooted clone gets the rot then your screwed. A young plant won't be strong enough to fight the side affects of treatment or the rot. My advise is to start over.
If you know of something that works then please post your system there.
Good Luck....
------------------------SYSTEM----------------------END----------
Would your advice be to cull the plants and use heavy sanitizers / disinfectants on bucket system + pumps and replace all airstones and hoses ? Or do i stand a fighting chance it seeing these girls live up to their potential ?
Will post pics of the root systems when i get home - but would love to hear expert opinions on this. The only thing i had time for before leaving to work was to mix h2o2 + water and use syringe to apply directly to slime / muck parts of affected roots to at least try and cut it down a bit....
Thanks for any input !
AP
Sorry about lack of pics or update provided yesterday - didnt get home from work until extremely late and next shift started early so didnt have time to provide anything meaningful
The plants did look a little more perky and even more so today - not back to how they were 3 days ago but they do appear to be making progress - will post pics in a couple hours.
Took the time to inspect the root zone - there appears to be significant new root growth coming from upper 2/3rds of netpot which i suppose is good news. However, the bottom of the netpots on several plants do have some slime deposits which im guessing are attributable to root rot.
Now im not sure, considering this is my first grow, whether i should battle on and try to cure the problem as a lot of research has led me to believe it may just be better to start from scratch ?
As far as trying to kill the rot goes - i came across the following on a different forum :
----------------SYSTEM--------- BELOW-------------------------
The root rot thread I started (my sig) has gotten me a ton of questions and rep. But it is a hard read cause I posted the info as I found it and not in any order. I used it as more of journal than a guide or instructions. So I have also gotten a few complaints because of it.
I lost 3 grows to rot and on the 3rd I got pissed and decided I was gonna learn to beat it. Over the course of 9mths I infected 3 plants over and over and tried all the products and info I could find. 2 died and the 3rd is in this grow now.
Root rot lives everywhere, in the air, our skin, pets, and the worst gnats. Carpet, wood, plastic, rubber all holds it and you can’t get it out. If you create a sterile room then no problems but how many of us can do that? Not many.
Hydrotron, if you buy the good stuff then you’re alright but if you get stuff from discount hydro supply house then you’ve got problems. Bleach won’t sterilize it no matter what you do. Ya could run it in a pressure cooker at 250F for 30min and that would do it but short of that your not gonna it get sterile. Why? Because like most items on this Planet rock is porous and those holes allow spores and viruses to live safe and snug.
Side note when I do use hydrotron I always clean it then let is soak in PH water at 5.0 for 48hrs (no I’m not gonna argue this point, it works for me and I don’t have to PH my grow very often). Bottom line, get it clean and hope for the best and never go cheap on any grow rocks.
H2O2, This stuff sells or the product wouldn’t be on the market but honestly I have no idea why. I’ve never been able to get it to work for me in any way. Its really good to burn holes in stuff or build homemade fun things that go boom, but other than that I find it of no use for the cost of the product.
Matter fact Voodoo Juice, Dutch Master Zone, Micro Maddness and many others have been given to me by my local hydro store with the promise of a cure and none worked. My idea of work is the sh*t is dead, gone, BYE, BYE. This never happened with these products. You can use them as a preventive measure but once the infection sets in there use is limited.
So over the course of 9mths I got a system in place that worked for me and the best part is it is very low cost. Also, I know that many growers are very clean and work very hard to stay that way. I’m sorry to tell you but 1ce you get the rot the spores get into everything, tubes, lines, air pumps, pots, any and all medium, water fill and drain lines and so on. If you want a clean room then you have to make one, new equipment, supplies, paint, floor and then find a way to keep your hands and cloths sterile at all times. Yes, I do this very thing everyday at work, but at home, in a hidden grow room? No way!!
Lastly remember, once you get infected it’s always there, you’re always infected. This is a fact of the natural world. It don’t matter if the infection is blood borne or otherwise, the spore, virus and such will remain. It stays present in very low numbers waiting to grow when environment is ripe and we humans think were safe. It doesn’t matter that you have had 6 grows to harvest since the rot hit either. It will still be there. Think of it like HIV and you'll get the idea.
So the following is what after 9mths I found that worked for me. And of course this is for hydro only.
Get some store bought peroxide and 2 spray bottles. Dump the res and clean it with the peroxide first then with alcohol (rubbing, or vodka, both work) using a scrub brush to clean inside and out. Remove all fittings, lines tubs and disguard. Throw air stones and lines away and replace with new. Most air pumps have some sort of filter, find it and pull it out and replace with cotton swab.
I use 4in net pots in BB’s with a 4x4 rockwool block so I run 3 full cups of pure peroxide pouring it from the top so it runs right threw the block. Then fill 1 bottle with peroxide and spray the roots till all the rot is gone. If the infection is early I have also sprayed alcohol right on the roots to no ill effect. It will dry the roots out so if you do this have a bucket of water nearby and set the roots in it for bout 5 min after treatment, this will keep the roots from burning and drying out.
Now comes the ruff part. Separate the infected roots from the healthy ones and cut all the nasty roots off. Keep spraying and cutting till all the infection has been cut away.
Note; (This is also a good time to mention that peroxide doesn’t kill anything! It cleans threw a process called cavitation and adds extra O2 to water. That’s all peroxide does)
Then refill bucket with adjusted PH water then add 1 cup of peroxide per gallon. Drop plant in and wait. Inspect to make sure no light from anywhere is getting into the res and that includes your medium. Add no nutes they help feed the rot. And if you can fill the res to the bottom of the pot. Rot needs air to live if you fill the bucket full then the only way it can get air is from the stone and that is where it will grow if it comes back. This is helpful because all you have to do is pull the stone and throw it away. The rot is sneaky not smart. The use of rockwool helps here because it holds a lot of O2. After 3 days if the rot doesn’t come back then you win. Fill res with a 50/50 nute mix. Do not increase nutes till you see new root growth. If it does come back repeat all steps above. If you’re willing to fight and wait you will beat it so long as you add NO NUTES of any kind. I’ve had plants recover in as little as 5 days.
The plant will pull nutes from the lower leafs first to help keep itself alive. Root rot will show all the signs of a nute overdose or in some cases nute def and even PH damage. This is normal so don’t freak out.
Spray your PH meter and all tools with alcohol to kill it to because it will live on the tools and then infect other plants. If you can use 90% pure alcohol.
Also you’ll find many growers and companies that will tell you that peroxide is hard on the root zone and they are in fact right.
But if you do nothing the plant will die. Also if you do want to use it for extra O2 (not killing the rot) then let it sit for 24hrs before you use it. This will allow all the bad crap that hurts our plants to evaporate and the extra O2 will stay. The reason is because peroxide is very unstable and it dissipates very quickly.
I’ve been in many heated Rambo like threads concerning this issue. The steps above work for me and that is that. I understand there are many ways to fight this sh*t, I’m by no means the alpha or omega on the rot. If you have issue with anything I posted here then please post your comments but please don't post crap like "this won't work, or your system is crappy, H2O2 does work why you say it don't.
I've had more positive replies to this info by far than neg. While this system isn't the only way, myself and others know for a fact that it works.
If a baby plant or non-rooted clone gets the rot then your screwed. A young plant won't be strong enough to fight the side affects of treatment or the rot. My advise is to start over.
If you know of something that works then please post your system there.
Good Luck....
------------------------SYSTEM----------------------END----------
Would your advice be to cull the plants and use heavy sanitizers / disinfectants on bucket system + pumps and replace all airstones and hoses ? Or do i stand a fighting chance it seeing these girls live up to their potential ?
Will post pics of the root systems when i get home - but would love to hear expert opinions on this. The only thing i had time for before leaving to work was to mix h2o2 + water and use syringe to apply directly to slime / muck parts of affected roots to at least try and cut it down a bit....
Thanks for any input !
AP
- Thread starter
- #88
AlphaPrime
New Member
Thanks for the input ! will definitely be incorporating it as soon as i get a hold of it !
- Thread starter
- #89
AlphaPrime
New Member
Just had another thought crossing my mind whilst at work - if i decide to redo whole system would build bucket system from scratch also -
Could i take cuttings from the plants growing at the moment - or would they also more than likely be infected and thus bringing me back to step 1 ? lol ... hope that makes at least a bit of sense...
Could i take cuttings from the plants growing at the moment - or would they also more than likely be infected and thus bringing me back to step 1 ? lol ... hope that makes at least a bit of sense...
- Thread starter
- #90
AlphaPrime
New Member
Pic heavy update :
This is the plant which looked worst affected by drooping a couple of days ago - it seems to have recovered somewhat. Lots of new root growth on one side of netpot... But also still plenty of spaghetti looking tan roots looking quite unhealthy.
This is the plant that looks liek it has recovered the most - and was least affected my initial droop - but the roots on this one look particularly unhealthy ?
Below are some more root pics of all plants taken just a couple minutes ago liek the rest of the pics...
And here are the plants at surface level ...
They seemto haven ot grown much in height over the last few days but more offshoots appearing...
So at this point Im kinda stuck on deciding whether I should be culling all the plants, building new bucket system (4x5gal for plants with central 5 gal bucket for recirc and connection to chiller) .... or if these plants are still worth persuing ?
--------------EDITED TO ADD------------
Ive given the roots a h202/water rinse for last 3 days and also introduced Pythoff at label rate.... Not sure how effective this has been considering the pics...
AP
Below are some more root pics of all plants taken just a couple minutes ago liek the rest of the pics...
And here are the plants at surface level ...
They seemto haven ot grown much in height over the last few days but more offshoots appearing...
So at this point Im kinda stuck on deciding whether I should be culling all the plants, building new bucket system (4x5gal for plants with central 5 gal bucket for recirc and connection to chiller) .... or if these plants are still worth persuing ?
--------------EDITED TO ADD------------
Ive given the roots a h202/water rinse for last 3 days and also introduced Pythoff at label rate.... Not sure how effective this has been considering the pics...
AP
Hozona
Well-Known Member
The plants look much healthier than before
Keep after it, hydro is day to day until you get It "tuned in"...then it should be smooth sailing...operative word "should"
Keep after it, hydro is day to day until you get It "tuned in"...then it should be smooth sailing...operative word "should"
- Thread starter
- #92
AlphaPrime
New Member
The plants look much healthier than before
Keep after it, hydro is day to day until you get It "tuned in"...then it should be smooth sailing...operative word "should"
Thanks for the feedback - does that include the roots though ? They look terrible to my eyes at the moment ^^ =/
Edit to add-
At the peristence of a grower friend - playing them some Bob Marley tunes to cheer them up haha ^^
Hozona
Well-Known Member
Since you appear to have great root growth started, I would take the net to the sink...don't worry about PH, they aren't gonna be in it long, andturn the tap on full and rinse from the top down...you can replace the hygroton that flies out after you are through..then the sides working down...since you have been flushing your res, I think replacing them in their holes should do the trick...and DM Zone if you have gooten some yet. Keep on keepin on...YOU WILL SUCCEED!
- Thread starter
- #94
AlphaPrime
New Member
Since you appear to have great root growth started, I would take the net to the sink...don't worry about PH, they aren't gonna be in it long, andturn the tap on full and rinse from the top down...you can replace the hygroton that flies out after you are through..then the sides working down...since you have been flushing your res, I think replacing them in their holes should do the trick...and DM Zone if you have gooten some yet. Keep on keepin on...YOU WILL SUCCEED!
Thanks for the detailed reply ! Do you think it would benefit using a 3 or 6% peroxide rinse before rinsing through with tap water ? Just an idea I got from various other sources ...
Hozona
Well-Known Member
Shouldn't hurt...but flush with water immediately!!! Like I said at full force and you will see most if not all of the gunk gone...and again...good luck!
- Thread starter
- #96
AlphaPrime
New Member
Thanks buddy ! Unfortunately have to pick the other half up from airport but will do it as soon as I come home !
Also wanted to take this chance to thank everybody for the support I've received this far - haven't been part of this community for long but have great respect for everyone here already !!
AP
Those roots don't look terrible. I've seen worse. I don't think you need to scrap the grow and start over. I had a similar situation in my grow awhile ago. The discussions there led me to take this approach...
I used H2O2 to clean the system. I made a reservoir of fairly strong (sorry can't recall ratio without my notebook) H202 and water. I then cycled that through my system for several hours. My system is a flood and drain style. With DWC, I suspect you would just leave it soaking. I would have done the soak, but I still have solution in my res, so by cycling repeatedly, I was using up more of the solution in the res. After you're done soaking with the H2O2 solution, mix up a 1/4-1/2 strength batch of nutes including DM Zone. I also used Hygrozyme as I understand it "cleans up" decaying matter in the system, ie the dead roots. I think it also stimulates root growth, so that's another benefit in the situation where you're roots are compromised. Hygrozyme is expensive though. The folks trying to help me on my thread thought I might not need it, but I already had it and I was still convinced it could help. I'm still using it, but I've been taping it off.
I used H2O2 to clean the system. I made a reservoir of fairly strong (sorry can't recall ratio without my notebook) H202 and water. I then cycled that through my system for several hours. My system is a flood and drain style. With DWC, I suspect you would just leave it soaking. I would have done the soak, but I still have solution in my res, so by cycling repeatedly, I was using up more of the solution in the res. After you're done soaking with the H2O2 solution, mix up a 1/4-1/2 strength batch of nutes including DM Zone. I also used Hygrozyme as I understand it "cleans up" decaying matter in the system, ie the dead roots. I think it also stimulates root growth, so that's another benefit in the situation where you're roots are compromised. Hygrozyme is expensive though. The folks trying to help me on my thread thought I might not need it, but I already had it and I was still convinced it could help. I'm still using it, but I've been taping it off.
- Thread starter
- #98
AlphaPrime
New Member
Friday Update:
So i managed to take the pots under sink last night. Started with a 3% peroxide risne / wash of root zone as well as quick pour over hygroton and then risned with tap at full blast all around.
Most of the muck came off and i put plants back into system thereafter. Then applied foliar spray to revitalise leafs before lights off.
Plants are looking like they are continuing the road to recovery. Just took a second to inspect the buckets and solution doesnt look as clear as it did several days ago - not sure if this is attributable to normal operation or not but will try and replace water + nutes yet again sometime today or tomorrow! When I did the first nute change I remember thinking something along the lines of "Im glad this is only a weekly occuerence" - have now gotten used to doing it far more often lol !
Also should note that I applied another maintenance dose of Pythoff after the rinse - could this influence slight cloudyness of reservoir water ?
Only other thing I noticed were that some of the airstones have patches of muck/slime on them - will take them out of the system later and give them a 20 minute bath in Pythoff/water or H2O2/water mix with airhoses attached followed by a thorough rinse and further 10 min bath+air in clean water.
But all in all the plants do look like they are improving daily - This shows just how true it is that hydro is a day to day operation and I hope that progress continues as it has been ! As much as it has been a pain in the ass - I am thankful that at the very least I am learning lots of stuff in the early stages that will help any futuer growths progress more smoothly !
One thing that I'm wondering about at the moment - some of the big early fan leaves appear to be blocking light for a lot of the new growth udnerneath! The new growth looks fresh and healthy despite this - is it way too early to think about some light defoliage ?
So i managed to take the pots under sink last night. Started with a 3% peroxide risne / wash of root zone as well as quick pour over hygroton and then risned with tap at full blast all around.
Most of the muck came off and i put plants back into system thereafter. Then applied foliar spray to revitalise leafs before lights off.
Plants are looking like they are continuing the road to recovery. Just took a second to inspect the buckets and solution doesnt look as clear as it did several days ago - not sure if this is attributable to normal operation or not but will try and replace water + nutes yet again sometime today or tomorrow! When I did the first nute change I remember thinking something along the lines of "Im glad this is only a weekly occuerence" - have now gotten used to doing it far more often lol !
Also should note that I applied another maintenance dose of Pythoff after the rinse - could this influence slight cloudyness of reservoir water ?
Only other thing I noticed were that some of the airstones have patches of muck/slime on them - will take them out of the system later and give them a 20 minute bath in Pythoff/water or H2O2/water mix with airhoses attached followed by a thorough rinse and further 10 min bath+air in clean water.
But all in all the plants do look like they are improving daily - This shows just how true it is that hydro is a day to day operation and I hope that progress continues as it has been ! As much as it has been a pain in the ass - I am thankful that at the very least I am learning lots of stuff in the early stages that will help any futuer growths progress more smoothly !
One thing that I'm wondering about at the moment - some of the big early fan leaves appear to be blocking light for a lot of the new growth udnerneath! The new growth looks fresh and healthy despite this - is it way too early to think about some light defoliage ?
Once you get a hydro system 'dialed in', it really isn't too much work to maintain. At least my system isn't. The plants still require tending, but that's the case regardless of how they are grown, maybe with the exception of SOG.
If you're seeing new growth, and they appear healthy, then it's probably fine. Defoliation is a stress on the plant, and it can cause growth to halt briefly. I've been doing my defoliation in batches, but in the past I would just remove leaves when I would notice they are shading something below.
If you're seeing new growth, and they appear healthy, then it's probably fine. Defoliation is a stress on the plant, and it can cause growth to halt briefly. I've been doing my defoliation in batches, but in the past I would just remove leaves when I would notice they are shading something below.
Hozona
Well-Known Member
Friday Update:
So i managed to take the pots under sink last night. Started with a 3% peroxide risne / wash of root zone as well as quick pour over hygroton and then risned with tap at full blast all around. GOOD!
Most of the muck came off and i put plants back into system thereafter. Then applied foliar spray to revitalise leafs before lights off. Good again!
Plants are looking like they are continuing the road to recovery. Just took a second to inspect the buckets and solution doesnt look as clear as it did several days ago - not sure if this is attributable to normal operation or not but will try and replace water + nutes yet again sometime today or tomorrow! When I did the first nute change I remember thinking something along the lines of "Im glad this is only a weekly occuerence" - have now gotten used to doing it far more often lol ! That stuff is the dead stuff coming off... Do flush with just PH'd water one more time...should take care of it!
Also should note that I applied another maintenance dose of Pythoff after the rinse - could this influence slight cloudyness of reservoir water ? Never used it... so sorry
Only other thing I noticed were that some of the airstones have patches of muck/slime on them - will take them out of the system later and give them a 20 minute bath in Pythoff/water or H2O2/water mix with airhoses attached followed by a thorough rinse and further 10 min bath+air in clean water. Sounds like you are addressing problems as they occur, then when you find a solution that works, that part done! Hopefully
One thing that I'm wondering about at the moment - some of the big early fan leaves appear to be blocking light for a lot of the new growth udnerneath! The new growth looks fresh and healthy despite this - is it way too early to think about some light defoliage ? I agree with Hiker on that
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