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Gurella growing help!


Active Member
I was thinking about doing some gurella growing this spring in cottage country in central ontario Canada starting around may 24.
I can only check up on them every other week so, ill be using an automatic watering system and a reservoir (water pump on timer)

My question is what types of ferts could I use that would last 2 weeks (or more) in a jug of water?

Second question

What are the best plants to use for low matenince grows?
im a fan of the white widows, sour, fruity and uplifting energitic highs.
Dont really want to grow to many low yeilding 1 oz strains but id also like to harvist in early October.

I was thinking of white skunk, auto viking ak, auto viking tropical and purple widow.

Any suggestions

Fuzzy Duck

Well-Known Member

Auto strains are normally lower yielding when compared to most... ya better of looking at the shorter flowering indica strains between 7 to 9 weeks for yield depends on climate & length of summer other wise sativa are prefered for those longer summer months !

An automated watering system may well require a rechargeable battery or at least solar powering... can be done ! or a slow drip 5 gallon drum or larger, basically has a small hole punctured in lid for a drip feed...

Other wise we may have to look at natural methods to help retain moisture in the soil... such as layer of mulch upon soil surface, amendments to soil as in plenty of manure or organic material this will help retain moisture as well as provide low value NPK nutrients & trace value micro nutrients, could even use swell gels a crystal substance which holds a 100% plus of its own weight in moisture...

Feeding can be as simple as a general all round granule fertilizer most of these only need to be used every 4 to 6 weeks applied to surface of the soil & lightly raked in, you could bolster nutrients in flowering tho with a liquid feed to enhance yield.

I don't think they are any real low maintenance plants/strains they all need watering & feeding... but it depends on how you prepare the soil includes amendments/watering if far away from a supply...

I'd double check watering whilst in periods of no rain or hot summer months :thumb:


Member of the Month: Feb 2014 - Plant of the Month: June 2015
you could use oc plus for nutes
OMM uses it and he said doc bud told him its good stuff and its why he uses it
mixes some in the soil before he plants and from there he just water feeds
as far as nutes go and not worrying about feeding


Member of the Month: Feb 2014 - Plant of the Month: June 2015


New Member
G'day mate here's a couple of suggestions I have even though my climate is a bit different. I live in sub-tropical Australia that goes from one extreme to the other. Our summer can serve up very challenging conditions for growing and this season totally different to the last. The last two summers were characterised by high temps.(low 30's C) Sept. - Dec. with very little rain then huge amounts of rain Dec/Jan to March/April. This summer it has been extremely hot and very dry with very below average rainfall. The dilemma this has created is mainly related to my soil preparation. I prepared my soil with high rainfall coming in mind so created raised "beds" in the form of round holes dug into nice riverine soil. I used heavy duty pond liner plastic (2mm thick) formed like an above ground swimming pool 250mm above the surrounding soil and 100mm below. The soil was worked for 200 -250mm below the soil prior to fixing the surround. I am lucky enough to have cattle nearby so under the cover of twilight I collected a couple of garbags of cow poo and piled this out in the open waiting for some rain to soften it. Luckily I got rain and this was broken up and divvyed up between the holes. The rest of the soil I prepared at home and walked it in under the cover of pre dawn darkness. My mix consisted of a quality premium potting mix (40%) an estimated 20% of hydrated Water Crystals (Polyacrylimide) which was hydrated using Seasol seaweed extract (made from Bull Kelp). Cow manure from another source was also added after being moistened to be able to be crumbled up. This was mixed with the existing riverine soil/local cattle poo mix and watered in with the local creek water. A couple of weeks later I added two Tree Tablets suitable for fruit trees to each hole where they would be 12 inches apart intending to plant in the middle. I also added a couple of handfuls of an organic based chemically boosted slow release pelletised fertiliser lightly raked into the top. The NPK of the Tree tabs =20:.09:10.9 plus all the minor and trace elements. I should get enough extra Phosphorous from the manure but will supplement with liquid feeds when watering. The slow released pelletised fert. NPK =3.3:.06:3.2 plus minor and trace elements. It also has 9% Humic acid. ###### Watering - luckily I have water in a creek 100m away that doesn't dry up but had thought about setting up a 200 litre drum with a battery operated tap. The plan was to set this up on a crate and rely on gravity feeding and just top it up from the creek periodically. By chance my planting schedule got interrupted before I could plant and now the summer is too hot to plant out so the intention is to raise my plants indoors to a couple of feet then plant out after the extreme weather backs off in March/April. Our winter is characterised by clear, dry weather in the mid 20's and the angle of the sun will be a little lower which will mean more direct sunlight hours for this plot so fingers crossed. PS Water crystals are well worth the effort and tree tabs live up to their name creating TREES. Cheers Pat.


New Member
Cheers tokersmokeg. I forgot to add after I finished preparing the holes I mulched the top with about 4 inches of leaf litter. I also piled up leaf litter around the plastic retainer "walls" to help insulate against the sun/heat and randomly placed nearby flood debris over and around the site to make it look undisturbed just in case someone may happen upon the site. As it happened this was a good move. When I come to planting later I will endeavour to leave it as undisturbed as possible and just plant into the holes amongst the debris. Come the cooler weather I will clear the leaf litter from the north facing side to allow the sun to warm the soil. I hope to grow some winter indoor transplants March - August then do a summer crop Sept/Oct before it gets to hot so they are established. Ideally the summer crop will be clones or maybe Fem seeds with a leaning towards a high percentage of Sativa in them. Cheers Pat.
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