Hafta's Retro-outdoor grow, Amsterdam, raised bed, soil, plus CST

@marcus611a ,
Well unfortunately, back in the 90's photos could equal a striped wardrobe. There were no digital cameras or smartphones so you either used a Polaroid or you sent a roll of film to a Photomat. The buds had reddish brown pistils with spiraling trichomes, similar to the attached photo from my current grow. The friend who got the seeds in Amsterdam told me they were 100% Sativa but I don't remember the strain.
I am currently smoking some Jack Herer and some Super Silver Haze, cured for nine and ten months). They both last and entire afternoon (3 - 4 hours) and the come-down is clear. I am past the "smoke until you drool" stage so one hit does me fine unless the joints are particularly troublesome, then two.
Everyone on this site has a certain expectation of quality. I haven't smoked a joint in years, paper affects the taste.

F54D98-1 (2).JPG
 
@marcus611a ,
Well unfortunately, back in the 90's photos could equal a striped wardrobe. There were no digital cameras or smartphones so you either used a Polaroid or you sent a roll of film to a Photomat. The buds had reddish brown pistils with spiraling trichomes, similar to the attached photo from my current grow. The friend who got the seeds in Amsterdam told me they were 100% Sativa but I don't remember the strain.
I am currently smoking some Jack Herer and some Super Silver Haze, cured for nine and ten months). They both last and entire afternoon (3 - 4 hours) and the come-down is clear. I am past the "smoke until you drool" stage so one hit does me fine unless the joints are particularly troublesome, then two.
Everyone on this site has a certain expectation of quality. I haven't smoked a joint in years, paper affects the taste.

F54D98-1 (2).JPG
Well regardless awesome job..... I can't wait to see how mine turns out.
 
@Bill284

Good morning Bill.
I started the cabinet grow last year, before I joined 420. This is my first excursion into forums so I didn't create a grow journal for this grow (I am on day 99 from germ). I created my signature before I knew how to link a journal so it is only a description of my current growing method, not a link to a journal (I'm still learning about forums). My current Excel spreadsheet has over 300 entries so it will take a while to transfer those into a journal. I may need to do that.
Is there anything in particular I can answer? I have photos from once or twice a week and A LOT of data ......
Good morning Hafta.
No particular question, just wanted to follow the action.
Hope everything is good my friend.

Stay safe
Bill
 
Well regardless awesome job..... I can't wait to see how mine turns out.
You already have some gorgeous buds.
Try this:
Slow dry at least one cola (more than five days to dry).
Put it in an airtight, light-proof container with a 62% Boveda (or a similar RH control packet).
Roll it out on a piece of newspaper three or four times a day for two weeks.
Seal it in an airtight, light-proof container without a packet (you should already be at a consistent 62% throughout the bud), and store it in a cool place (less than 70 deg. F) for six months.
Put a bud in a pipe, take ONE good hit, and sit back and evaluate the result for about ab hour............
This one was harvested 4/23/21

SSH 42421-2 copy.jpg
 
You already have some gorgeous buds.
Try this:
Slow dry at least one cola (more than five days to dry).
Put it in an airtight, light-proof container with a 62% Boveda (or a similar RH control packet).
Roll it out on a piece of newspaper three or four times a day for two weeks.
Seal it in an airtight, light-proof container without a packet (you should already be at a consistent 62% throughout the bud), and store it in a cool place (less than 70 deg. F) for six months.
Put a bud in a pipe, take ONE good hit, and sit back and evaluate the result for about ab hour............
This one was harvested 4/23/21

SSH 42421-2 copy.jpg
Yeah my buds is already dried bro put them in a jar already although I had to let them sit out this morning woke up humidity 83% on my tops so get back home I'll put them back in the jar and see where I'm at this shit some fucking chronic bro
 
Yeah my buds is already dried bro put them in a jar already although I had to let them sit out this morning woke up humidity 83% on my tops so get back home I'll put them back in the jar and see where I'm at this shit some fucking chronic bro
Hey Marcus,

The most important part is the CURE!
It sounds like your bud is NOT already dried if you are still seeing 80+ RH.
My suggestion is to take ONE bud and follow the above steps.
If you already believe the bud is chronic at this time, you won't believe what a six month cure will do for the flavor and potency. Maybe ..... one hit every four hours?
Try just ONE bud, you may never go back to smoking them right away.
 
Hey Marcus,

The most important part is the CURE!
It sounds like your bud is NOT already dried if you are still seeing 80+ RH.
My suggestion is to take ONE bud and follow the above steps.
If you already believe the bud is chronic at this time, you won't believe what a six month cure will do for the flavor and potency. Maybe ..... one hit every four hours?
Try just ONE bud, you may never go back to smoking them right away.
Yeah that's where the jar settled at when I woke up this morning I put them in about 8:00 p.m. last night they felt crispy to the touch I wanted to play it safe I knew they weren't ready for curing yet so I set them back out to dry check on them when I go home put them back in the jar and see where it's at. But believe me I'm already going to put back a nice amount of this bud in my closet up on the shelf once my cure is done and just let it set. Seem like you know you shit and I'm all about the one hitter quitter that bud last a long time
 
I only play it safe cuz my relative humidity is so damn low most of the time it's 28 never pass 35 so you know better be safe than sorry
Yeah, out here in the desert the humidity drops to the teens. I have to keep a tray with a wet towel in it in my dry box. I can then adjust the exhaust fan to try and control things.
 
Hey @Hafta , interesting training ideas! :thanks:

I grow in a small cabinet like it sounds you do and have been tieing my branches down in an effort to max out my space, but I recently got tired of the training strings constantly catching on things every time I move the plants around.

So, I recently began supercropping them as an alternative which I have to constantly redo as the limbs grow and turn back up to the light. I find your weight idea kind of interesting and I'll give that a try later on when I work on my plants. I like the additional benefits that you seem to have found like stronger roots and limbs from the dead weight hanging off the ends of the branches.

I would expect that to produce stronger limbs than simply tieing them down to restrict their movement since they seem to constantly want to pull against those restraints. Kind of like the difference between static strength training and lifting free weights. The latter gives you more strength through a range of motion, whereas the former builds great strength but at only one fixed point. I'd imagine that would lead to less chance for stem splittings later on if the plant got bumped for some reason.

Sounds like you don't even supercrop them but simply LST with the weights, that true? I imagine the supercropping would also add to the strength of the limbs but sounds like you've found that additional strength unneccessary, and that just using the weights is enough?

The supercropping step certainly slows them down for recovery time, and eliminating that stress is much like the quadlining approach which eliminates multiple toppings but still produces great structure in a much reduced time frame.
 
Hey @Hafta , interesting training ideas! :thanks:

I grow in a small cabinet like it sounds you do and have been tieing my branches down in an effort to max out my space, but I recently got tired of the training strings constantly catching on things every time I move the plants around.

So, I recently began supercropping them as an alternative which I have to constantly redo as the limbs grow and turn back up to the light. I find your weight idea kind of interesting and I'll give that a try later on when I work on my plants. I like the additional benefits that you seem to have found like stronger roots and limbs from the dead weight hanging off the ends of the branches.

I would expect that to produce stronger limbs than simply tieing them down to restrict their movement since they seem to constantly want to pull against those restraints. Kind of like the difference between static strength training and lifting free weights. The latter gives you more strength through a range of motion, whereas the former builds great strength but at only one fixed point. I'd imagine that would lead to less chance for stem splittings later on if the plant got bumped for some reason.

Sounds like you don't even supercrop them but simply LST with the weights, that true? I imagine the supercropping would also add to the strength of the limbs but sounds like you've found that additional strength unneccessary, and that just using the weights is enough?

The supercropping step certainly slows them down for recovery time, and eliminating that stress is much like the quadlining approach which eliminates multiple toppings but still produces great structure in a much reduced time frame.
You are absolutely correct. Using the weight method requires NO recovery time and adds both structural strength and rotational strength, since the weights are also used to re-direct the secondary branches.
In my most recent grow (just finished), I utilized the CST method and got NO drooping colas during drought.
I did not supercrop nor tie down any branches. I topped after the fifth node (experimental). I went into flower with more than 100 cola sites in the 2 x 3 cabinet (in the future I will probably top after the third node).
I will be writing the grow summary today so check out the link below (I will tag you).
Yes, the weights are enough. Remember, you will need to move the weights toward the end of each branch until you have the size you are looking for, then let them reach for the light (a good time to flip). With enough light, you could fill a 10' x 10' room with one photo-period plant.

P.S. The just completed grow yielded 14.5 ounces of manicured and dried bud. It was 22" tall.
 
That sounds perfect. Thanks.

I've got a perpetual going in my cabinet so the next plant up sits in veg until there is space vacated by a harvested plant so the veg time can vary a bit. I think this will be fun to experiment with.

Any advice on weights to use? I'm thinking about using various sizes of binder clips depending on the size and location of the branch that needs adjusting.
 
That sounds perfect. Thanks.

I've got a perpetual going in my cabinet so the next plant up sits in veg until there is space vacated by a harvested plant so the veg time can vary a bit. I think this will be fun to experiment with.

Any advice on weights to use? I'm thinking about using various sizes of binder clips depending on the size and location of the branch that needs adjusting.
I use 10 gram fishing weights hung from paper clips. Some have one, some two, and some three weights per clip. I have had as many as three threes on a single branch. My last grow used every weight cluster shown in the photo below (about 75 weights on 50 clips overall). The weight used is determined by the size and strength of the branch.

P1010806.JPG



Spread the paper clip into an "S", place the weight(s) on the smaller portion of the "S" and crimp it so the weight(s) won't fall off the clip (this will save some frustration). Hang the larger end on the stem where it will make the branch NEARLY level. It is best to maintain a slight upward tendency. Hang on every branch necessary to keep the canopy at the same level. I placed the trellis once I flipped so I could maintain vertical separation. The trellis is 8" above res deck.

F-2-1.JPG



The remaining 6" on each side will fill in during stretch.


F57D101-3.JPG
 
Thanks. I was thinking of draping a rubber band over the branch to keep the weight from sliding toward one node or the other when moving in and out of the cab. Do you usually leave it close to a node or more in the center between two?
 
Always close to a node. Put on branch and slide down to the leaves. Move toward the top when there are two or three nodes beyond weight. You don't have to leave them where you place them initially, just move them further up the branch. This can be time consuming but you will know your plant VERY well. Place the weights on the secondary shoots first since they will add to the overall weight of the branch.
 
O.k., thanks. Good tips.

I can already tell I think I'm going to like this approach. I tried it tonight with different things for weights and hooks. I can see where the paper clip is going to be much easier than rubber bands, and doing it without supercropping will work nicely as well. I may try to get some rubber coated paperclips though as I can see a rusting issue likely develop after several foliar sprays.

I like how you can adjust the branch angle with both weight and the location of the weight. :thumb:

Are those lead fishing weights you are using? The binder clip weight seems to work, especially when used in combinations. I'll likely need a weight in more than one location on some branches to avoid it bowing down toward the tip. Maybe this is not necessary if trained properly early? I have some longer branches that need weighting in the center, but that leaves the tips free to reach for the light.

I'll need to get some supplies together to give it a proper go, although I have a few swinging weights in place already. I imagine having some swing with the weight probably helps with the strengthening, in addition to simply having weight on the branch itself. I could see some swaying of the branches as I brought them in and out of the cab. Very interesting.
 
O.k., thanks. Good tips.

I can already tell I think I'm going to like this approach. I tried it tonight with different things for weights and hooks. I can see where the paper clip is going to be much easier than rubber bands, and doing it without supercropping will work nicely as well. I may try to get some rubber coated paperclips though as I can see a rusting issue likely develop after several foliar sprays.

I like how you can adjust the branch angle with both weight and the location of the weight. :thumb:

Are those lead fishing weights you are using? The binder clip weight seems to work, especially when used in combinations. I'll likely need a weight in more than one location on some branches to avoid it bowing down toward the tip. Maybe this is not necessary if trained properly early? I have some longer branches that need weighting in the center, but that leaves the tips free to reach for the light.

I'll need to get some supplies together to give it a proper go, although I have a few swinging weights in place already. I imagine having some swing with the weight probably helps with the strengthening, in addition to simply having weight on the branch itself. I could see some swaying of the branches as I brought them in and out of the cab. Very interesting.
I have never found the need for foliar sprays but I do have a couple of fans keeping the "under-canopy" dry. I haven't experienced rusting (not even when I used this technique outdoors). It does rain in the Bay Area. Even if you experience rusting, paperclips are inexpensive and you will be handling them frequently.

You will absolutely need to position more than one per branch. Address the location closest to the trunk first and give it a couple of days before adding more towards the top. This goes for the secondary branches as well. Always work outward from the center.

Yes, these are the least expensive lead weights you can buy on Amazon.

I believe swaying is the most beneficial component of the technique whether it is by moving the plant or by the breeze generated by the fan(s). It is one reason I selected the longer weights, to increase sway.

You have a very good understanding of the technique and its benefits. You will be very pleased with the results and the ease of working with your plant(s).
 
Thanks, @Hafta . I went back and reread your original write-up and I clearly missed a bunch from my initial reading. I'm picking up my supplies today so may be back with more qestions and clarifications from you as I go.

Thanks for sharing. :thumb:
 
@Hafta,

I've been using the weights now for the past month and a half and I like the approach!

One thing I used to do with the ties was redirecting branches to fill in gaps or space branches out from each other but with the weights they just go where they want.

How do you address this, if at all?
 
@Hafta,

I've been using the weights now for the past month and a half and I like the approach!

One thing I used to do with the ties was redirecting branches to fill in gaps or space branches out from each other but with the weights they just go where they want.

How do you address this, if at all?
I have attached some photos that kind of show the technique. I lay the branch that needs to be re-directed on top of another and make sure the weight(s) are on the re-directed branch and below the lower branch. From the photos you can see many criss-crossing branches. Once the direction is determined the branch will continue in that direction.


F14D58 Internodal 2.JPG

F14D58 Internodal.JPG

F22D66-bottom.JPG


Let me know if this helps............:Namaste:
 
Back
Top Bottom