Help Need Exact Diagnosis For This Sexy Kush

dudewithaquestion

Active Member
Hi, everything is coming along great but for the past few days I noticed some brownish spots on 1-2 of the leaves. I am kind of stuck as to what exactly the deficiency might be either boron, potassium, calcium or phosphorus. Any help would be great so I can remedy it.
 

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rdwc
5.8 ph
flora series with around 100% to give around 900 ppm's
no cal mag
2x 1000 watt MH lights that are on 50% dimmed at about 20 inches away
 
Have u grown before?
How old are the plants bud

I'd say she needs some calmag. When I ran GH Flora Trio in DWC I never needed any, but each strain is different

Be careful running full nutes if your a newer grower
 
Looks like rust fungus to me. I would bet $$ on it. The start of it is usually caused by temperatures being too low when it's lights out while there is high humidity at the same time. What helps the fungus grow is if the soil is too damp all the time and the relative humidity is really high or some leaves are constantly wet and warm. Dont look like a Calcium or Mag problem at all.
 
the almost destroyed leaf convinced me its not fungus... looks like magnesium to me. There is an adage out there... if you run RO water, you need calmag.
I Seen that leaf too but I had to guess its unrelated to the spotted ones. It looks to me like a seperate issue. I do agree though that the necrotic leaf is caused by something else other than rust fungus.
 
hey guys thanks for the responses. where im from everything needs to be ordered so i been busy troubleshooting with some calmag etc.. i have some more info and more pics about my plants and grow and history.

1. 8 of the 9 plants that are in this grow are monster cropped clones which is why the bottoms look crystally and buddy.
2. i think as well it is a mg problem as you will see from the new photos i will attach with the telltale color symptons.
3. i think fanleaf might be right as well. where i am from right now at this moment i am living in -10 to -30 degree celcius outdoor temps and the humidity is around 0 to 20% rh for real. im my room i am keeping the grow tent which is 9 feet by 15 feet at a constant 22-24 degrees celcius and 50-60% rh. in order to get this rh i added a giant stand tower cool mist humidifier.
4. my room is equip with a 8 inch (way to big for my room) inline fan with 8 inch ducting which i currently have unhooked because it is destroying my humidity. my plants were stunted in the beginning because of the low humidity which is why i had to go and buy this humidifier and take down the exhaust fan.
5. the ducting was just unhooked so that a cool breeze from outside could come in the grow room and maybe in the night it might have been dropping temps to 5-10 degrees celcius while the humidity stayed 55-60% rh.

this is 1 hell of a battle i never grew in the winter here and i have no idea how to keep my room at the proper correct temp and humidity while trying to intake and exhaust the room because if i put on my exhaust my humidity will go down to 0-10% rh and if i dont then i will continue to get stagnant air and ruin everything. here are some pics. hopefully you guys can help my sort this mess i have out lol.

- i attached photos of the grow. 4 og kush. 4 green crack and 1 gorilla glue on the end.
- i attached photo of how my exhaust looks how i have it now.
- i attached photo of the humidifier
- i attached photo of daytime temp and humidity
- i attached the calmag i just got

thanks again dudes.
 

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and another smudge of info. i have 3x 1000 watt hps / mh lights. i only have 2 up because i am waiting for my air cooled hoods for the other 2 lights. because i upgraded when i moved i used to always grow without air cooled hood and allow my lights be the heat source for the room.
but now that i moved i have other battles to fight with humidity etc. as you can see from this thread lol but my 2 hoods should be here in about a week so when they do i will have 3x lights and it will give me some help with the powerful 8 inch exhaust because i can then put the fan all the way back blowing into the lights / hoods and have about 12 feet of additional ducting to the filter to help reduce its power. then i can control the room with house heat making it 1000x easier to control the temp and hopefully the humidity.
i do have a dial on the 8 inch fan and filter but even when its all the way on min power it is still way to powerful for the room. so hopefully when i fully extend the ducting to 25 feet with some bends etc.. and then have the fan 12 feet into the ducting it should reduce the power a ton more and allow me to control the humidity better and hopefully again fix these issues.
 
and another smudge of info. i have 3x 1000 watt hps / mh lights. i only have 2 up because i am waiting for my air cooled hoods for the other 2 lights. because i upgraded when i moved i used to always grow without air cooled hood and allow my lights be the heat source for the room.
but now that i moved i have other battles to fight with humidity etc. as you can see from this thread lol but my 2 hoods should be here in about a week so when they do i will have 3x lights and it will give me some help with the powerful 8 inch exhaust because i can then put the fan all the way back blowing into the lights / hoods and have about 12 feet of additional ducting to the filter to help reduce its power. then i can control the room with house heat making it 1000x easier to control the temp and hopefully the humidity.
i do have a dial on the 8 inch fan and filter but even when its all the way on min power it is still way to powerful for the room. so hopefully when i fully extend the ducting to 25 feet with some bends etc.. and then have the fan 12 feet into the ducting it should reduce the power a ton more and allow me to control the humidity better and hopefully again fix these issues.
One thing you can do is cover the intake ONLY SOME on the blower. If running it on low you can cover 25-50% of the intake to slow it down even more. This allows plenty of airflow to keep the motor cool still.
 
i have something else to add. i am using tap water but where i am from our tap water is probably one of the cleanest in the country if not world. the tap water ppm is 105-110. but i also done something for the past 2-3 weeks that i never done before and thats foilier feed. i put around 2-3ml of B-52 in about 800ml bottle. now im thinking this might be helping cause of being the cause of this. i added some more photos as it looks like it is progressively getting worst and almost all the plants have it now.

i think i ruled out rust fungus. it looks to be a calcium and magnesium deficiency and maybe boron?

what can i do to fix this?

some more photos to help me.
 

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i feel like its down to cal and mag deficiency from what you guys been saying but also from some sites i seen as well. i put in around 200 ML of calmag in my system which has around 60 gallons of water which works out to around 3.3 ML of calmag per gallon. my ph was always around 5.4 to 6.0 -ish. and they say that calcium and magnesium is best absorbed when the ph is 6.2 so between 6.0 to 6.5. so i adjusted the ph to 6.2 and pray for me that it fixes the problem.

any additional suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
i feel like its down to cal and mag deficiency from what you guys been saying but also from some sites i seen as well. i put in around 200 ML of calmag in my system which has around 60 gallons of water which works out to around 3.3 ML of calmag per gallon. my ph was always around 5.4 to 6.0 -ish. and they say that calcium and magnesium is best absorbed when the ph is 6.2 so between 6.0 to 6.5. so i adjusted the ph to 6.2 and pray for me that it fixes the problem.

any additional suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
I would also test your tap water the following way to see if you have the same issue I had when I used tap water. The tap water here is about 180ppm but fairly alkaline at 7.8. I would add nutes and ph down to the water and bring it down to 6.2. After the water would sit for half the day and I would retest the ph and it would be right back where I started at 7.8. I would add more acid to bring it to 6.2 again and over a day it would go straight back again. Just for a test I kept repeating adding acid for 6 days before it would stay at a 6.2ph. I have no clue what is in my tap water but it seems to buffer itself very strong to 7.8. Once I switched to RO water and added calcium and magnesium all problems were gone.
 
I would also test your tap water the following way to see if you have the same issue I had when I used tap water. The tap water here is about 180ppm but fairly alkaline at 7.8. I would add nutes and ph down to the water and bring it down to 6.2. After the water would sit for half the day and I would retest the ph and it would be right back where I started at 7.8. I would add more acid to bring it to 6.2 again and over a day it would go straight back again. Just for a test I kept repeating adding acid for 6 days before it would stay at a 6.2ph. I have no clue what is in my tap water but it seems to buffer itself very strong to 7.8. Once I switched to RO water and added calcium and magnesium all problems were gone.

yea my tap water is up there as well around 8.0 ph but i dont have a problem with the ph once i adjust it at the 5.8 to 6.0 it will stay there pretty much until i top up or res change which can be about 10-14 days for a change. plus i didnt get this problem in the previous grow through the summer months which is why i thought it was a humidity issue.
 
i picked up botanicare calmag
I'd up the calmag to 7ml per gallon, recommended is 5ml, so yet still too low


Each strain is different, just because no issues last grow means nothing this grow
 
i thought about an ro system as well but i am just starting again and have never had any probl
I'd up the calmag to 7ml per gallon, recommended is 5ml, so yet still too low


Each strain is different, just because no issues last grow means nothing this grow


yea i hear that. also the gorilla glue on the end looks amazing it is not showing any problems but like you said each strain is different. i will definitely up the cal mag some more and hawk watch the PH to make sure it stays at a stable 6.2 for maximum uptake
 
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