Home Made LED Panels

thanks pan4 ill check them sites outhmmmm just was thinking leds in a rotor garden the one that takes a hour to go around not the omgea that takes 45 min its a lil smaller, have a mini light cycle that would be cool all in that circle every hour it would go from sunset to dawn lol wonder how it would work

so do you know a avg cost of leg bulbs? i might be intrested in trying to get some and trying it with a roto garden:D
 
Well inferno first thing is the price of the LED's, I used Ledengin's go to Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor and put in 897-lz110cw05 into the search box, then hit on the data sheet in the part box. This will bring up all the power LED's from Ledengin, and the other part #'s to check out the other LED prices by repeating the proccess. Then hit on the emitter link to see what current to run at, as well as all the other spects. I used these units for a couple reasons, one was because at the time they were the only ones that came mounted on a star for easy mounting, but now a few other manufactures are doing that. You can do other searchs as well by putting something like 5 watt red led in the search and using the filters to narrow it down. The second reason I used them is because they should be good for 100,000 hours instead of 50,000.
As far as how well the 210 watts of just red/blue I'm using now compared to how I was doing with the 400MH. I guess the best way to discribe it is I got somewhere between the harvest of the 400, and not quite half of the 400/600 combo I used for a couple years. There was one factor involved that I will address, my temp went from over 95 to less than 60 a couple times. Now I have a small electric heater on a thermistat to keep it at 80. My hope is that by next fall I'll have goten some camper heater that runs on bottle gas, and use that to keep the temp up while adding Co2.
When you look up the data on the cool whites, scrole down to the frequency chart, and look up what plants need for light, you'll see why I need to add them. I also see a need to add the deep reds. I will be putting 350 watts right at the LED's (not counting power supply losses, that's 350 LED power only) when I do this, but I'll need 34 deep reds at over $11.00, and 12 cool whites at about $9.35 to do this. But that's the future, not the present. Since I built my own power supply, and made the heat sink from aluminum angles and channels, (and way over built them) I'll end up having spent about $1,400.00 by the time I hope to call it done. We'll see on that though.
 
tech do you think throwing greens in there might be better then whites? i know green is because it rejects it but what if it needs to reject some of it to grow a lil after the hps and mh has just a lil bit of green too not very much though. how many pannels are u going to be able to make with that budget plain u got?

What im thinking is Led's will end up with like 3 diff kinda reds alot of deep then a few of the less shades then the very middle spec of green and 2 diff kinds of blues still very high amount of high pitched reds.
 
Not from what I've been reading inferno, that's why I've been looking at the cool whites. If you look up the data on them you will see they are based in blue. First let me tell you a little about white LED's. They are mostly based in blue, look at one of those new LED flashlights and you will see what I mean. The cool white has a big spike of energy starting at about 430nm, that's a higher frequency than blue at 465nm and is for chlorophill A then there is a low right where the regular blues kick in, and it then curves up through the greens and into the reds. I think that should cover the middle colors that are missing from the red/blue standard. As far as the deep red's, and most likely I'm wrong here, so if I am anybody correct me please, but I have heard not to go too strong here because the plants will think they are under a tree or something and get leggy. As far as green, and anything the plants may need there, I think the whites will cover it. Right now I am running 60 reds, and 18 blues, I want to upgrade it with 34 deep reds, and 12 cool whites. I think I went too high on the blue count though, we'll see when it's all done.
 
im thinking of say 600watts spread out to equal two 600 hps in a omega, 50% red 25%blue, 5% white, 10% amber, 10% deep red



or 50% red 35%blue, 5% white, 5% amber, 5% deep red
 
Have you seen the 25w warm white panels or the new 50 watt line. you can also get 435nm in a 5 w luxeon I did find some 660nm reds but can only buy 10K is the minimum order. Do you have a tax Id or business license if you do then you can go straight to china and buy direct.

inferno420 and Techhead there is a place in e-bay the international sales where you can get 5 watt star led's .99 GBP each It's directly for Hong Kong.

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Pan4
 
wow 10k thats alot looks like for the pans i wanna would be 120 each one wonder if i would need to make that into 2 300 watt ones instead and wonder if my setting would work so the cool whites act like floros?
 
10K what are you talking about? that must be the mi order straight from Ledengin. I don't buy direct from them, although that would be a better price each. Mouser has them priced per single, at ten piece, and 50 piece price's. The one Pan said there are some for .99 somewhere, look into that. I'll stick to what I know, and who I know as well.
As far as adding the amber, some guy on another thread had said that color promotes hermies. I don't know if that's true. I'm thinking the cool whites will cover that frequency for me anyway. As far as how many of each color goes, sorry, I'm not a scientist dealing with plant color needs, so I've been guessing myself. Best of luck. When ever I get my settup up to what I'm looking for, and have done a test run at that time, I'll let everybody know if the combo I've set up does the job well, or just OK. Untill then I'm just experimenting myself. What I do know is how to build it, and hoping for the best is just that.
 
Ok Pan, but I'd watch it, if they are on a reel they are not mounted. Do you know how to surface mount LED's on heat sink PCB which is not the same as regular printed bourd? that's what you'll be dealing with. What's with the 50 watt? Those will be bright enough, but what is the current? and what is the break over voltage? All of those questions will have to be answered before I'd spend money on it. Going to the sorce is a good thing. For me though I already have accounts with mouser, and several others as well, so still I'll stick with who I know for now even if I have to pay full wholesale. That's what mouser is, a wholesaler for electronics. If you are building something electronic, and need resistors, and such they are still my first look as there prices are competive, and there inventory is large.
 
One more little note to all those out there finding these good prices on LED's. The ones I bought would have cost me much less if I had bought them on a reel and mounted them myself. I know how, and I have the right equipment, but the time I saved was worth it to me. If you are going to solder them yourself a static charge on a blue, or white led can blow it up before you do anything, and if you get them too hot while soldering you can blow up any kind of LED, so make sure you are getting what you are looking for.
 
pan4gold49 said:
I don't know how about running a pick a place or programing one. Yes I know more than you think.

Let's all get out to VOTE in the 420 Contest's Here

Pan4
Click to expand...

Sorry Pan, I'm not here to judge anybodys skills. What I am trying to do is keep it simple enough for those that don't have those skills, but are learning, and I hope to help keep them from some of the pitfalls they will run into. Still I have to question a 50 watt LED setup. would you mount them on a water cooled heat sink?
 
Techhead said:
Sorry Pan, I'm not here to judge anybodys skills. What I am trying to do is keep it simple enough for those that don't have those skills, but are learning, and I hope to help keep them from some of the pitfalls they will run into. Still I have to question a 50 watt LED setup. would you mount them on a water cooled heat sink?
Click to expand...

I was going to use a CPU fan and heat sink to mount them on, have some old one's that dissipate much heat. A water block would be great.

Let's all get out to VOTE in the 420 Contest's Here

Pan4
 
Pan, you must be a computer tech. Did I get it right? I work on pro audio myself, big power amps, tube amps, and digital keyboards, among others. Sounds like we are on kind of the same levels here. That's why I picked Techhead for a name. My computer skills are lacking, so from time to time I may not know what you know, and since I work with a lot of anolog power sometimes I may know something you may overlook. It's good to know somebody knows what I'm talking about out there though.
 
pan4gold49 said:
I have some done of that had a business doing it in the late 90's. I building a tube amp with 304th and need a plate transformer 1kv @.3 amp any idea's.

Let's all get out to VOTE in the 420 Contest's Here

Pan4
Click to expand...

304th? not sure what your talking about, have not worked with that tube before. Is it an audio file home amp? 1K at the plate? wow. Is it single ended (one tube) or are there two output tubes in push pull? Plate transformer, do you mean output transformer? If your talking about a power transformer, some of the old fenders used 500 volts with a centertaped transformer. If your talking about a single ended output transformer you could use a center taped output transformer from end to end without the center tap but the impedance would be funny I would think. I've had guys come in just to have Mercury transformers put into brand new amps, they swear by them. Look into those to start with, and if I remember right they will build one for you at some price I don't even want to think about. You might try CE distrabutions out of Tempe AZ as well. 1K volt wow good luck.
 
Pan4gold49, A couple post back you had mentioned useing a RGB diode setup. This may work, but then there are some questions to go with it. First is what do you get if you ran that light across a prism? Would it come through just as red blue green? or would it come through as a full spectrum? Would it go all the way to deep red at 660nm? and would it go high into the blues to 450nm or so? I have long woundered about that myself.
It's a puzzle if the light waves seen when the color is blended if plants will see the whole spectrum, or if it's an illusion to the human eye. If the colors are blended to the plants, is it just harmonics of the original colors, and are these harmonics strong enough?
I know that's a lot of questions, but I think they are worth asking if a guy is going to spend big money on these things.
One thing you may look into if you are thinking in very high watt LEDs is something I seen in the trade lit I get from time to time. I'll tell it like this. When I first started working with the high power LEDs I got this idea I could build spot lights for stage from them. Next thing that came in the mail was some add for one of the light system manufactures, and guess what, you got it, high power spots made with LEDs. I've not seen one, and I didn't look into what they are built with, but they can make any color on demand. This does tell me one thing, they have a driver for the high power LEDs. so the idea of being able to create sunrise, mid day, and sunset is possible, but now we are back to the questions above.
Lot's to think about.
 
Techhead It is a lot to think about but here is what I know. RGB leds are the most researched thanks to tv's. The spec's I have seen for these leds claim 380mn to 700mn they do this by using the forward voltage. The lower the voltage is more red higher voltage more blue to violet. The transformer is for a tube head 300W for my guitar.

Pan4
 

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