Journal #2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Not much hammering - just need to put up some metal studs, drywall and insulation - area I'm using is mostly finished already :)
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

An oldy but a goody - search for The Word Fuck (Jack Wagner) and download the The_Word_Fuck_64kb.mp3 and listen - makes me laugh every fucking time and never seems to get old :)
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

The Blue OG had a 2 in. tap root already - just 2 days after putting in my germination rig - and is now in High Brix pot getting ready to roll.
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Blue OG from G13 Labs is a flavorful hybrid following the lineage of Blueberry F3, Blue Moonshine, and OG Kush. These dark, cone-shaped buds characteristic of OG genes emanate notes of berry and citrus, and leave its consumer feeling euphoric and relaxed. Though its effects are cerebrally targeted, Blue OG is known to also tackle pain, relax muscles, and relieve nausea. Growers can expect an eight week flowering period with ideal conditions outdoors.
Blueberry and Kush was apparent even from a visual sense, with the coloration closely resembling most Blue strains (light green calyxes, dark blue-green guard leaves), but the structure screaming “Kush” with its pinecone shape and large calyxes.The effects built smoothly over the initial 5 minutes or so, resulting in a mentally alert yet strongly medicated state where the body felt very relaxed and warm. patients recommend this strain for Muscle relaxation, pain relief, mood elevation, relief from nausea, and some anti-anxiety properties (no strong, anxious start)
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

High Brix SSH Clone:

DSC_008722.JPG


DSC_008819.JPG


High Brix Big Beefy:
DSC_008919.JPG


High Brix Roma:
DSC_009020.JPG


High Brix Classic:
DSC_009120.JPG
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

yeah, those damn chicks broke into my strawberries :) forgot to close the garden fence one day and bye bye strawberries, every last one.
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Avoid putting lights too close to your plants - almost enough light is never a problem but too much light is always a problem.

Grow as few plants as possible - having too many plants leads to too much work with trimming, etc, more money than necessary for nutes etc. and it doesn't produce greater yield unless you have the lighting to back them all. Two things impact yield - light and health so you can produce just as much or more yield from one healthy plant under the same light as you could from 2 or 4. Just check out what CO Finest can do with one plant and you'll see what I mean.

Watering strategy - basically depends upon plant size, container and environment but for basic idea small plant in a big pot needs less water and a big plant in a smaller pot will need a lot more. I like to check the weight of the pot to determine water needs which means you need to lift pots often to get a feel for them since dry weight changes as root ball grows.

Nutrients take 3rd place to light and water as far as I'm concerned and less is more, less is more, less is more. Trying to fix a plant after you've given it too many nutrients is stressful for the plant and will probably impact yield significantly. Also beware of miracle additives or so called super advanced nutes - trying to fix a plant with additives is like thinking you can turn your beat up 72 VW bug into a formula F1 just by putting some racing fuel into it. And, nutes are nutes just take a look at your old school books and tell me if you see any elements labeled as super advanced. I didn't think you'd find any.

Of all the advanced yield tricks out there I believe in these 2 - CO2 for the leaves and Oxygen for the roots.

My most controversial one is PH - I don't give a dang about my PH and I never check it. I have a whole world outside of trees and plants that don't need checking and they do just fine. If you have nutrient lock out it's probably due to over-watering. Also, having salt build up from too many nutes is probably often mistaken for PH.

My .02 :peace:
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

How do photoperiod plants outdoors flower without a true 12/12 lighting schedule?

You can thank the lucky stars for this. Yep, lighting from starlight which is in the 640 nanometer wavelength shortens transitioning to flowering by accelerating the conversion of Pr into Pfr.

The phytochrome molecule is the photoreceptor for red light responses and has two forms Pr and Pfr.

Pr absorps at a peak of 666 nanometers, is the same form that is synthesized in dark-grown seedlings, and when it absorbs red light is converted into Pfr form.

Pfr absorbs at a peak of 730 nanometers, is the active form that initiates biological response, is converted to Pr when it absorbs far red light, and can spontaneously convert to Pr in extended darkness.
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Sample Nutrient Profile and Schedule

Veg:
Day 7-18: 125PPM N, 62.5 P, 62.5 K (assuming nutrient free media or hydro) or 1/4 strength
Day 19-25: 250 N, 125 P, 125 K or 1/2 Strength
Day 26-end of veg: 350 N, 175 P, 175 K or 3/4 strength
(Start nutes at day 26 or when signs of deficiency begin to appear for nutrient based media/starting media)
Mg Def- 350 N - 175 P, 175 K, 200 Mg, 100 Silica (Cal-Mag should be about 40% of PPM)

Flower:
Day 1-14: 200 N, 400 P, 400 K or Full Strength
Mg Def- 140 N, 280 P, 280 K, 300 Mg (25-40% ppm come from Mag-Sulfur)
Day 15-21: 140 N, 280 P, 280 K + boost of 100 P and 100 K or 3/4 strength + bloom booster P/K
Day 22-28: 200 N, 400 P, 400 K + 100 Mg (If carbs are added reduce Mg supplement accordingly)
Day 29-42: 200 N, 400 P, 400 K + 300 Mg + 50 Silica or Full Strength + B-1, Sweet or FloraNectar + Silica
Day 43-49: 140 N, 280 P, 280 K, 100 Mg + 50 Silica or 3/4 Strength + B-1, Sweet or FloraNectar + Silica
Day 50-Flush: 50 N, 100 P, 100 K, 50 Mg + 25 Silica or 1/2 strength + B-1, Sweet or FloraNectar + Silica
Flush- just water and no nutes, carbs may be used such as unsulphured molasses and B-1 - flush 2 weeks prior to harvest

If there's an N deficiency it never hurts to also treat with 50-100 PPM of Silica

Roughly 40% of PPM should come from Cal-Mag for veg and 25-40% Mag-Sulfur for Flower.

Rule of thumb is to Feed, Water, Water,Water, Feed, FwwwF, FwwwF...

Don't increase PPMs until/unless plants seem to be healthy but are yellowing and paling. By taking note you'll be able to prevent the yellowing and paling for future grows by knowing when to adjust in advance.
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

When do I?

Top plants? starting around week 2 of veg and never later than 2 weeks prior to switching to 12/12

Add more Cal-Mag? If purpling, or curling up of leaves

Take cuttings for cloning? From week 3 of veg up through week 1 of flower is ok, can be done even later but not recommended

Lollipop? From week 3 (fast strains) to no later than 2 weeks prior to flower (slower strains)

Switch to 12/12? When I'm ready depending upon how big and what style, the longer you wait the bigger the potential yield if enough light , height, and media is available to support it.

Add CO2 such as Green Pads? Week 1 of flower at no more than 1400 PPM

Check for Elephant foot? When girdle leaves purple or yellow typically after week 1 of flower

Switch to Mag-Sulfur from Cal-Mag? Week 4 of flower using B-1, Sweet and FloralNectar or similar till finish
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Troubleshooting:

Is only one leaf affected? Yes = Invaders (bugs, mold, mildew), No = continue to next line

Are leaves clawed, puffy or bumpy? Yes = Over Watering, No = continue

Are the leaves droopy, thin and curled under? Yes = Heat stress from light, No = continue

Is the plant growth stunted and leaves/tips yellowing? Yes = Nute Burn, No = continue

Is there any purpling cupping or folding leaves? Yes = Mg deficiency

Note that a few random leaves dying is perfectly normal and at about week 6 - 8 in flower you should see more leaves start dying off which is normal. Prior to weeks 6 - 8 any more than a few random leaves is a problem.
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Nutrient Problems:

Micro def - show at top of plant first (rare, if you have micro deficiency you probably over watered and damaged roots except in the case of Mg which is the most common micro def)

Macro def - shows at bottom first (N is most common Macro def especially in early flower - refrain from dropping the N until after the stretch)

Too Many Nutes - shows at the leaf tips first

Too Few Nutes - pales from the bottom upward

If you do happen to get a deficiency make a note of the exact point it occurred so you can avoid it next time with that strain. So if you start seeing Mg deficiency in Week 3 of flower, next time you'll know to supplement or increase the supplement around week 2. Note, in soil problems manifest in about 10 days, in hydro about 6 days and aero about 3 days.
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

budnoob2 said:
How do photoperiod plants outdoors flower without a true 12/12 lighting schedule?

You can thank the lucky stars for this. Yep, lighting from starlight which is in the 640 nanometer wavelength shortens transitioning to flowering by accelerating the conversion of Pr into Pfr.

The phytochrome molecule is the photoreceptor for red light responses and has two forms Pr and Pfr.

Pr absorps at a peak of 666 nanometers, is the same form that is synthesized in dark-grown seedlings, and when it absorbs red light is converted into Pfr form.

Pfr absorbs at a peak of 730 nanometers, is the active form that initiates biological response, is converted to Pr when it absorbs far red light, and can spontaneously convert to Pr in extended darkness.
Click to expand...

:thedoubletake::cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

cajuncelt said:
Did you write the "Grow Book" everyone gets from the hydro shop? Lol.
Good info.
Click to expand...

WAIT!!! they have a book? lol.
This is great write up budnoob2.
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

Disclaimer: EVERYTHING IN THIS POST IS A LIE..........SO?......... IS THIS POST A LIE?.......OR?.......IS THE POST IN THE POST A LIE?.............
patrick.gif
 
Re: Journal#2 - High Brix Kit - Silver Surfer Haze Clone - LED - MH - HPS

budnoob2 said:
Disclaimer: EVERYTHING IN THIS POST IS A LIE..........SO?......... IS THIS POST A LIE?.......OR?.......IS THE POST IN THE POST A LIE?.............
patrick.gif
Click to expand...

Hey budnoob2, now the whole world knows what I look like when I get up in the morning.
 

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