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Let's talk about flushing

GreatLife4All

New Member
Lately I have been reading a lot about flushing.

First, let me say that there are many types of "flushing". The two important types for me (I grow hydroponically) are "weekly" flushes and what I will call the final flush. For the purposes of this post, and hopefully this thread, we will restrict ourselves to only discussing the final flush... though I will call it simply flush.

The other thing I need agreement on is the reason behind flushing. Most growers will claim that the final product will improve in taste... or another angle, it decreases the harshness of the smoke. I can find no other arguments supporting this practice. So I am going to assume that "taste" is the reason that people perform a final flush. If you have other reasons, please post up and let me know.

My experiences with flushing are interesting. I don't claim definitive knowledge, but I will share my experiences and thoughts. I have a line of plants (WW) from a single mother that I have grown under many different conditions now over the past nine months. My experience indicates that we are doing flushing wrong. Why would I say such a thing?

Because you get a smaller yield of <possibly> higher quality bud.

Ok... bear with me as I take what will look like a side trip here.

What is happening in the plant during the last two weeks of growth? When I check... I see lots of different names for this period - aggressive bloom, bud swell, and etc. But no matter what it is called, this is a critical period in the development of an MJ plant. Smells develop and mature. Buds are filling with resin. And the plant is undergoing one final major push to produce. So the plant is growing in many ways, just not in physical size.

Why would anyone take away nutrients when the plant most needs them? Doesn't make sense. Ok... I know the argument, the plant is merely moving nutrients from one part to the other. Good argument, but unfortunately it just isn't true in all cases.

For our purposes, there are two classes of nutrients. Mobile nutrients and immobile nutrients. Mobile nutrients are ones that we know the plant can move around inside of itself. The immobile nutrients can only come from the roots - they can not be moved once inside the plant. There are scientific reasons behind this having to do with xylem and phloem that I will skip. If you are interested in the science behind this, let me know and I can give you some pointers.

So which are mobile nutrients? The list is as follows: N, P, K, Mg and S. The other nutrients which are immobile are Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, and Mn. If you need a layman's thought process to justify this - the mobile nutrients are the ones that cause problems on older growth (they are stolen from old growth to support new growth... thus they are obviously mobile within the plant). The immobile nutrients affect the whole plant at once - and most especially in the areas of growth (the growth shoots or apical meristems) which is at the outside edges of the plant.

The typical recommendation for flushing goes something like this: "For the last two weeks of the flowering cycle, remove all nutrients and use R/O water." Some will suggest a flushing solution which is mostly sugar. In either case, you are severely limiting all nutrients - not just the mobile ones.

So why is this a critical error?

You need to think about what happens when a plant does not have calcium... cell division comes to a halt. This results in "stunted" growth if it occurs during the normal plants life cycle... something we would fight agressively... but we accept it as part of the final flush? Doesn't make sense.

Boron is also essential for new plant growth. Without Boron - you won't get good bud development.

I could go on and point out what each of these immobile nutrients do. But it would be better for you to go and find a source, read about the effects each of these nutrients has, and then decide if that is something that you want stopped during the last two weeks of flower.

The final thing I want to point out is plant stress. You are going from a high nutrient environment to one where you have pretty close to zero. This will obviously put stress on the plant. Think how long it would take for your body to adjust between say... a high fat diet and one based on water. You are not just going to continue in life like nothing happened... The same sort of thing happens to the plant. And plant stress reduces yield.

So I think that I have made my point that flushing is bad due to the science behind growth. But what does actual growing experience tell me?

It is a fact that flushing restricts yield. Don't care the type of MJ plant. I started with two week flushes... then moved to one week to limit the amount of yield loss... and have now moved to 3 days on my latest grow. I can't tell any difference in taste between each of these time frames. And yes, I have had overlapping yields of the same plants genetics - so that I can actually tell.

I believe that flushing produces a hay like smell. This may not be in all cases... but it has happened enough to me that I believe it to be true. WW typically develops a great smell at about 4 to 5 weeks of flowering. I had two grows where I lost that smell in the final product - and those were the two longest flushes. I had some plants recently that were first out of the tent - couldn't flush because the other plants weren't ready. The largest yield and definitely ENHANCED the smell that had been building. Many people claim that this is the best batch of WW that I have ever grown. They knew nothing about the changes in my procedures... and I hadn't really put it together yet. But this grow eight weeks ago was what got me to thinking about things and checking my notes.

I am in the middle of harvest right now... and this one had a three day flush for some of the plants. I don't think the three day flush made much of a difference in yield... but I also don't think that it made much of a difference in TASTE either. Seems like an academic exercise more so than something that worked.

A couple more anecdotes and I am done for now.

I just got done growing a Silver Kush. I didn't flush it and it was the harshest (and best) smoke that I have ever personally grown. I was all over myself about ruining the taste of such great weed by not flushing. But a nine day drying period followed by a 3 or 4 day curing period in mason jars has mellowed the weed right out. No harshness at all now. And the taste gets better every day. Definitely not ruined.

I cut one stalk about two weeks early on the Silver Kush just to give it a try. It dried down to nothing - but was harsh and strong. i did the same thing after harvest - took a branch and dried it down in the oven. It didn't shrink much at all... had way stronger smell (the house filled with a pleasant odor this time)... and the buds had great trichs. None of this would have happened had I stopped the plants growth two weeks ago. And here is the interesting point... I would have been very happy with the yield and quality of that weed that I clipped two weeks ago... had I not had the second sample to compare against.

So I got a great yield (over 3.5 oz with eight other plants in a 4x4 tent) and it is developing great taste - with no flush.

So it would seem to me that the only thing flushing does is to mellow the smoke out between harvest and cure. Or another way to look at it maybe - it allows you to either skip the cure entirely or to limit the curing time. I can end up with great smoke using either method... and in fact I can't really tell much difference after the cure is finished. So, at best, you can try to convince me that the small difference (that I can't notice) is worth the loss of yield... and I won't buy that pony.

And with that statement, I will accept the far greater yield, taste, and THC production afforded by not flushing... and accept that I must do a proper dry and cure to get rid of that nasty taste.

I would appreciate any thoughts on my thoughts....

:Namaste:
 

nibec

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

i totally agree.

i used to grow exclusively hydro, and before that exclusively dirt. since then im back in dirt simply to keep it simple for the time being due to time restrictions on my gardening. come winter ill be able to get the water bubbling once again :)

anyways my first plants i ever grew (dirt) i did a 2 week flush. i dried them fast, and i smoked it fast. they turned out great IMO for a first time.

next, i messed up my timing, 1 week flush. i thought it would be the end of the world... anyways, dried it quick, smoked it quick. didnt taste very good. but not horrible.

after that i went back to 2 week flushing with no issues.

finally i tried my hand at hydro, and again fallowed the 2 week flush rule. --- awesome!

it was around this time that an old timer... grower of 20+ years laughed at me for flushing. and taught me about the art of properly drying and curing.

so now... (hydro) i decided not to flush... kinda... i was still concerned.

his method? - feed them until chop date... where the last week, just back off on nutes, cut them in half, and just add water until harvest . his reasoning? Plants start to use substantially less nutrients towards the end of life, and towards the ripening stage. BUT, if you take them away 100%, it will hurt your yield.

don't believe me? if you're in hydro... watch the daily drop in your ppm over flowering, and watch it almost stop dropping the ppm over the last week... water still goes away, but ppm almost stays the same... for example i was watching a constant 100ppm drop in my nutes... then over the last week, only roughly 10-20 ppm a day.

anyways, he cautioned me about doing the proper dry and cure. the smoke WILL be harsher. however, if properly cure it, and dont rush. you will be rewarded with just and smooth smoke. and a healthier, heavier plant in the end. IMO very much worth it. (looks nicer too :))

anyways, i went along and followed his way... and low and behold... he was spot on... it worked great for me, and now dirt or hydro, i practice this method and have never looked back.


lots of people scoff at the idea... but you know what? let them. if you want to "play it safe" and flush for weeks... go right ahead.

i will add... however, despite his method working awesome, i added my own tweak that a lot of people do... if it helps or not who knows... but the day i plan to harvest... i flush 100%, and then leave it in the dark for 48-96 hours instead. it apparently shocks it and throws more resin blah blah blah... if it works or not who knows. but i just do it, casue when its done... its normally at a inconveinent time... and normally within 48-96 hours or so its worked out it lands on a weekend :p (just make sure you dont have a humidty spike... in lots of rooms if you cut the lights for that long you risk rising humidity and therefore mold)

anyways... cheers :)
 

Scarfinger68

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I think it can go either way. If done properly you wont loose any yield.
for example i was watching a constant 100ppm drop in my nutes... then over the last week, only roughly 10-20 ppm a day.
They are barely using nutes as it is so flushing isn't going to hurt them. I have also seen hydro growers pull in 1gram/watt with HPS and he flushed.

I think the key is not flushing to early.

I believe that flushing produces a hay like smell
Not in my experience.
I have only had this happen with a 3 year old strain that had the mother plant propagated from a clone 3 times. Repeated cloning can change/or lose something over time from the original.

I believe the main reason is just for a smother tasting smoke. Flushed cannabis in my opinion burns cleaner and whiter


But I do agree with you that there are those that don't flush and like the way it smokes. The only thing I have heard several times is not to use magnesium at the end because you can taste it.

But... I am glad you brought this subject up. I am going to run a little experiment for myself

This was my last grow... flushed before harvest


Current grow... No Journal. Same 2 strains just in bigger pots
Day 18 of flower


I am not going to flush this grow and decide once and for all on the subject. No better guide like experience.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the subject.

+reps
 

Lusi

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

Hmmm... this could explain my outdoor grow last year. This was the first time I have flushed an outdoor grow as it is hard to do in the ground! I bought Clearex which I watered with heavily one week before harvest. I had 9 different strains and they all turned out smelling weak and more like hay than mj. Besides my very first grow, this is the weakest worst tasting weed I've ever grown despite the fact my plants were healthy 5-9' monsters and my best looking yet. Even in my volcano this harvest was pretty useless. I have not grown plants of this size before so can't comment much on yield...

I am still using buds from two years ago that is dry and brown and still more pleasant than last year's grow! I can't smoke and only vaporize, but wish I could to see what is meant by flushing to get rid of the harshness of the smoke.

This year I find myself hesitating to use Clearex, then came across this post by accident. I have 8 strains that will all finish at different times all together in the ground in a raised bed. They all get the same treatment... Should I feed them as usual once a week until harvest? I planned to let them dry out before harvest... but is this as counterproductive as flushing? Is is BS there is salt or nute buildup that needs flushed out? Nute buildup with our manmade feeding schedule seems logical, which is confusing. In nature it seems the soil is naturally depleted of nutrients at the end of the season. Whether this is a good thing or not for bud quality is another thing... lol

Anyway, based on last year I am game to ditch the Clearex and debate on just a heavy nute free watering or nothing instead.

Thanks for the thoughts on this!

:thumb:
Lusi
:peace:
 

GreatLife4All

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I appreciate the comments guys.

One thing that I was studying was to use a different set of nutrients in the last week or two.

It was my belief that the benefits of flushing come from one of two things - nitrogen or potassium deficiency. As such, I tried to locate fertilizers that had no N, P, or K - since these are easily moved around within the plant. I could find nothing in the hydroponics / MJ product offerings.

However, I did have luck by looking into aquarium plants. It seems that due to waste in the water - they have plenty of N, P, and K present - they simply need all the secondary and micronutrients. There is a product called Flourish Trace that has been developed for this purpose. Here is the product marketing blurb for Flourish Trace:


Flourish Trace supplies a broad range of trace elements demonstrated to be necessary for proper palnt health and growth. Trace elements are normally depleted by utilization, oxidation and precipitation. The latter two processes occur more rapidly than with other micronutrients. This makes it important to restore trace elements on a regular basis. Flourish Trace may be used alone or in conjunction with Flourish. Best results are obtained when both are used. Flourish Trace is nitrate/phosphate free. Guaranteed Analysis (Amounts per 1 g), Boron (B)...... 0.028 mg, Cobalt (Co)...... 0.0003 mg, Copper (Cu)...... 0.032 mg, Manganese (Mn)...... 0.085 mg, Molybdenum (Mo)...... 0.003 mg, Zinc (Zn)...... 0.169 mg, Rubidium (Rb)...... 0.00008 mg, Nickel (Ni)...... 0.00003 mg, Vanadium (V)...... 0.00002 mg

I plan on using this during either the last week - or maybe two weeks - of my next grow just to experiment. But it seems to me that maybe this will split the difference in the two methods... provide the secondary and micronutes that are needed - while avoiding Nitrogen and Phosphorus which produce the harsh taste.

I also noted that they use Rubidium, Nickel, and Vandadium - which are never present in Hydro nutrients. So I got to doing some research and it turns out these these are all newly recognized plant nutrients. And, of course, none of the MJ nutrient providers seem to know anything about this research. There are scientific papers all over the web on the use of N, Va, and Ru... and there are fertilizer ingredients for each of these elements... and the aquarium plant industry are using these... Wonder why they are not doing so in MJ?
 

GreatLife4All

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

Hmmm... this could explain my outdoor grow last year. This was the first time I have flushed an outdoor grow as it is hard to do in the ground! I bought Clearex which I watered with heavily one week before harvest. I had 9 different strains and they all turned out smelling weak and more like hay than mj.

I don't have proof of this... but I believe it to be true.

Is is BS there is salt or nute buildup that needs flushed out? Nute buildup with our manmade feeding schedule seems logical, which is confusing. In nature it seems the soil is naturally depleted of nutrients at the end of the season. Whether this is a good thing or not for bud quality is another thing... lol

Yes, I believe that you need to do a maintenance flush of the system - especially hydro - every now and then. I believe that Clearex is a wonderful product for this purpose. What I normally do is add R/O water to the system, lower the pH to 5 - 5.3, and then add Clearex. I then circulate the water until the PPMs stop rising. This cleans everything out and gives me a new start on building up cruft on the roots.

You may also want to consider using Flourish Trace for your final 'flush' - I know that we won't be doing any damage by adopting this strategy.
 

Gadfly

Well-Known Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I'm interested in seeing where this goes.

According to Jorge Cervantes' grow bible, the hey or lawn like smell that we've experienced is from an excess of gasses--nitrogen to be specific--trapped in the plant. This happens when the plant dries out before these gases can be expelled.

From my understanding, the purpose of the final flush isn't to remove all the nutrients, it is to give the plant enough time to use up the stored nutrients. Flushing removes nutrients from the medium, not the plant. The plants store large amounts of nutrients in the root ball and smaller amounts in the fan leaves for future use. Dieing plants quickly convert any remaining nutrients into gases (even after we chop em theyre still trying to do their plant thing) and if they dry too quickly these gasses become trapped. That leaves the grassy/hey smell and the snap, crackle, pop of uneven burning material, or so I've been led to believe and experienced to some degree.

Anyhow, I hope that adds something to the discussion. No one should have to deal w/ lawn pot, so I would really like to see this thread lead to a more concrete solution to a very real nuisance.
 

GreatLife4All

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

According to Jorge Cervantes' grow bible, the hey or lawn like smell that we've experienced is from an excess of gasses--nitrogen to be specific--trapped in the plant. This happens when the plant dries out before these gases can be expelled.

This makes sense, thanks for the addition.

I truly don't know what is the source, but I definitely want to avoid it in the future.

From my understanding, the purpose of the final flush isn't to remove all the nutrients, it is to give the plant enough time to use up the stored nutrients. Flushing removes nutrients from the medium, not the plant. The plants store large amounts of nutrients in the root ball and smaller amounts in the fan leaves for future use. Dieing plants quickly convert any remaining nutrients into gases (even after we chop em theyre still trying to do their plant thing) and if they dry too quickly these gasses become trapped. That leaves the grassy/hey smell and the snap, crackle, pop of uneven burning material, or so I've been led to believe and experienced to some degree.

The snap, crackle, pop that you reference is definitely Phosphorus burning. It turns into a white ash - and this is what you should see if you are having this type of issue.

I have had the hay smell without excess phosphorus in the weed... so I am not sure that the two are related. For a while, I thought that the hay smell might be a deficit of sulfur (which is in the terpenes that generate smell) in the nutes... but I put that one to bed as you wouldn't have a hay smell either...

And, I have trouble sometimes differentiating correctly between soil and hydro. I don't have anywhere near the experience with MJ in soil... so I am worse than a newbie because I have educated guesses that have never been validated or defeated.

In soil, there is no way to remove all nutrients. A flush, even a major one, will only dilute the nutrients that are there. And due to the deficit, the bacteria/fungus will generate more if available in the soil profile. So a flush in soil is TOTALLY different than running your hydro setup with zero nutrients. In soil, you end up with weak nutes and slow regeneration... in hydro you start with nothing... and end with nothing.

Maybe the hydro guys just have it wrong due to misunderstanding on what is happening in the soil when you flush with R/O water?
 

Fuzzy Duck

Well-Known Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

Interesting debate i must admit :thumb:

I can not really comment on flush between soil vs hydro as i have only grown in soil mainly being organic for the time being...


How ever i am progressing towards to hydro with a new journal with soil & hydro (hempy) grow side by side... this is partly due for my own experience to monitor smell of dried bud & taste/smoke over soil vs hydro its some thing i must find out for myself really !


I only know from experience that a longer cure produces a smoother & taster smoke :love:

Normally i dry for 2 weeks & cure for 4 to 6 weeks to which i find nice, even tho i do have nug collection jars of nugs from grows since i first started growing my own with some of these nugs are over year old & smoke heavenly... tis my vintage collection saved for special occasions :Namaste:
 

Gadfly

Well-Known Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

In soil, there is no way to remove all nutrients. A flush, even a major one, will only dilute the nutrients that are there. And due to the deficit, the bacteria/fungus will generate more if available in the soil profile. So a flush in soil is TOTALLY different than running your hydro setup with zero nutrients. In soil, you end up with weak nutes and slow regeneration... in hydro you start with nothing... and end with nothing.

Maybe the hydro guys just have it wrong due to misunderstanding on what is happening in the soil when you flush with R/O water?

Maybe this explains why soil grows have the reputation for better taste and odor--all that yummy fungi and bacteria.:thumb: I'm very biased on that topic so feel free to ignore.

This is from the Clearex website:

"Clearex can also be used at the end of a crop’s growth cycle to trigger the last reproductive stage of the plant forcing it to process and assimilate internally stored nutrients. Pre-harvest treatments with Clearex can enhance flavors and increase yields in fruits, vegetables, and culinary herbs encouraging plants to process these excess nutrients."

Clearex is basically sugar and water. I have used it for hydro, but in soil I just run molasses and tap water then just tap water the last couple feeds. I agree that flushing takes on a more important role in hydro for many of the reasons you pointed out earlier, but the purpose of the final flush for both soil and hydro is the same.

Bacteria and fungi (don't kid yourself into thinking that hydro is fungi/bacteria free) will continue to produce micro nutrients to some degree (bacteria and fungi need food to do this), but it would be the macro ingredients that are believed to cause the lawn smell, foul taste or burn.

My goal is not to come off as confrontational if it reads that way. Shit, I would love to get out of flushing if it could be shown to be a waste of my time.
 

GreatLife4All

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I am not interested in a fight, just a discussion - I will even debate if you bring facts or experience to the table.

I only want to grow the best yield with a great smell, taste, and effect. As I stated, I got comments on one grow that I had achieved superior weed... I want to duplicate that.
 

GreatLife4All

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

"Clearex can also be used at the end of a crop's growth cycle to trigger the last reproductive stage of the plant forcing it to process and assimilate internally stored nutrients. Pre-harvest treatments with Clearex can enhance flavors and increase yields in fruits, vegetables, and culinary herbs encouraging plants to process these excess nutrients."

I have used Clearex, Final Flush, Botanicare something or other, and just plain water.

Clearex is the clear (I am sorry, I had to) winner. Final Flush was a close second. The formulations on these two could not be more different. One is a chemical soup consisting of Mg and S, the other, as you stated, is simple sugars.

Why would two entirely different formulations both seem to work? Why does AN feel the need to flush with just Mg and S - theoretically these are mobile nutrients which should move just as easily as N, P, and K? Why does AN (and a lot of other companies) tell us hydro guys that we should stop using Sugar in our mixtures during week 6 (assuming an 8 week flowering cycle) and yet my best results (when I am flushing) are with simple sugars?

I will honestly admit to being confused... there has to be a lot of misinformation out there about this topic.

Clearex is basically sugar and water. I have used it for hydro, but in soil I just run molasses and tap water then just tap water the last couple feeds. I agree that flushing takes on a more important role in hydro for many of the reasons you pointed out earlier, but the purpose of the final flush for both soil and hydro is the same.

I agree the purpose is the same... I am arguing that the methods should likely differ because of the basic differences between hydro and soil. In many cases, people just use the same techniques from soil grows in hydro grows... pour in clean water for soil grows is good... so I will do the same for my hydro setup.

I am interested in exploring how to improve just my hydro grows (I am selfish, after all). But I will admit that the soil guys do seem to have an advantage in taste. Is there something they are doing that we could do better?

Bacteria and fungi (don't kid yourself into thinking that hydro is fungi/bacteria free) will continue to produce micro nutrients to some degree (bacteria and fungi need food to do this), but it would be the macro ingredients that are believed to cause the lawn smell, foul taste or burn.

My goal is not to come off as confrontational if it reads that way. Shit, I would love to get out of flushing if it could be shown to be a waste of my time.

I am a big fan of bacteria and fungi. I remain unconvinced that it matters though... unless you have the right conditions. In soil type mediums - absolutely the best thing you can do. But hydro nutrients are all in plant available form... no need for processing before the plant can use it. Does this matter? Even given that - fungi and bacteria both extend the size of the root systems... which is definitely good.

And - I am the definition of a lazy grower. Anything that I can get out of without hurting yield/quality - is great by me. But if I am doing more work and producing something inferior... when I believe that I am helping... discordance.
 

DrOfDank

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I had read up on flushing vs not flushing as I neared the end of my first grow (soil), figured better safe than sorry and flushed the girls. That was a pain in the ass, but the herb came out great, so I decided to test side by side on the next grow. Same soil (FFOF), same strain. I flushed half, didn't flush the other. After drying and curing, to be honest, I couldn't tell the difference. These days, growing in coco coir, I feed until the final week and then just give 'em PHed H2O.
 

Scarfinger68

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I had read up on flushing vs not flushing as I neared the end of my first grow (soil), figured better safe than sorry and flushed the girls. That was a pain in the ass, but the herb came out great, so I decided to test side by side on the next grow. Same soil (FFOF), same strain. I flushed half, didn't flush the other. After drying and curing, to be honest, I couldn't tell the difference. These days, growing in coco coir, I feed until the final week and then just give 'em PHed H2O.

:19: All this talk about this is better or that's better and... maybe it doesn't really matter much. I got a chuckle out of it.

So at least one weeks worth of flush, Well maybe it is more of mainly just not adding nutes the last week or two. I still plan on letting my plant use up all its nitrogen and keeping the other green to see If I find a difference.

:peace2:
 

OG1969

Well-Known Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

Very interesting topic, having an indoor grow coming up would be nice to learn if what I did last time may have actually hurt the Yield, flavor and potency. As for in the ground reall depends on how far and wide the root structure is to me I had one that was spread over ten feet in all directions would have been alot to flush. But I do learn something new here every day. Peace OG.
 

HighDesertRat

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

Lot of good info here. Thanks guys. I too am one that was told flush, flush, flush when I first started growing. I have gotten the hay smell and taste from some good lookin bud that I ended up throwing in the hash bags. Out of laziness I didn't flush one harvest and noticed I couldn't tell the difference from a flushed harvest (same stinky smell, same great taste). I totally agree about curing......you gotta be patient (I usually can't wait more than 8-9 days before I sample).
 

nibec

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I think a big factor on how long to flush or if to flush also depends on if you have been over feeding them to the point of burning. If they're burning, you probably have too much nutes built up in those leaves to get rid of by properly drying and curing.

Otherwise IMO you're fine
 

Scarfinger68

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I think a big factor on how long to flush or if to flush also depends on if you have been over feeding them to the point of burning. If they're burning, you probably have too much nutes built up in those leaves to get rid of by properly drying and curing.

Otherwise IMO you're fine

I like your thoughts. Good point.
 

GreatLife4All

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

I have about a week and a half before I do my next flush (assuming that i do it for a two week period).

From the comments we have gathered already, it seems that a flush CAN be justified under certain circumstances for hydro.

Still not sure what to do. I am wavering on whether or not it will make a difference again... All you really have to do is get rid of the N,P, and K to approximate a soil flush.

I think I am going to try something different and run Flourish Trace... for two weeks. I have a giant (no, really) LST'd White Widow that has been fed hard it's whole life and may actually benefit... from what I am reading. I have been running it with 1500PPM of CO2 at 85 degrees - and I have been running the nutes heavy (on P and K) at 1750PPM. It is drinking better than 2 gallons a day without any burnt leaves or overfeeding issues... I keep thinking I could push it harder but I am out of time and would typically start to reduce the nutes at this point.

I also have a Bay 11, C99, Trainwreck, and Amnesia plant in this tent. The WW has covered all the other plants except for the Bay 11 and C99. The Trainwreck is completely covered - but is still very heavy with bud. Because of different flowering cycles on these plants I will be pulling the C99 this week (no flush and long cure)... I will then pull the White Widow during the next week (which will be week 9 in flowering). All the other plants should come out a week later. If I switch to my new mixture - I will run the WW for a week of flush and then the other four plants will have two weeks of flush. This should allow me to get a pretty good test on the usefulness of my thoughts.

If I could drop the nutrient solution into the 500PPM to 700PPM range and just have micro nutrients available - maybe I get the best of both worlds. Allow the plant to "cool off" and yet finish development.

Given that I am going to do what I have outlined... would you guys also throw in sugar (in the form of Clearex). I am a big fan of this and think it does help to increase Brix in hydro... though I have never tested Brix officially. And I don't know if it makes a difference in the last two weeks... especially since I have been feeding Bud Candy all along.

I have read that sugar in the last two weeks increases the risk of mold. I don't really believe this myself and have used Clearex several times successfully (even with Bud Candy having been used earlier).

Any opinions on throwing this into the final mix?
 

Lusi

New Member
Re: Let's talk about flushing...

What do you do outdoors in soil? I can certainly see it being needed in hydro set ups or even soil indoors where your runoff is eventually absorbed out of the pot trays . What about outside, but in a climate where there is no rain to dilute the nutes in the soil in between feeding? Is a pre harvest flush with plain water or clearex of any use? Only on the one grow I did use clearex have I had an entire hay smelling grow. Before this I didn't flush with water or products. That's what makes this thread so interesting, coincidence or not. :) I was sold Clearex for a final soil flush. If it is meant only for hydro lmk, I'll pitch it! Lol :)
 
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