Mars-Hydro LED Grow Light Discussion

:party:Great, flyboy! it must be a lot fun to play with the feautures.:party:
Just got the new Mars Pro epistar 320 today , and it's amazing. Been playing with the features and got the programming done , comes on at 6pm at 50% brightness for 30 minutes , then full brightness for 11 hrs , down to 50% for the last 30 minutes .

It's a heavy piece of equipment, big heatsinks and metal enclosed drivers , 8 of them :) , plenty of air flow . Can't wait to get it hung up tonight .
 
:cheesygrinsmiley: nice
Here's a pic :)

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:circle-of-love: hi randy, you can control a couple of lights with one single remote control. :cheer:
They are a good looking piece of equipment really hope that you keep us informed on their ability and if the plants like them.


One question I have had is can the controller run more than one light? There are others that let you make one a Master with up to a couple hundred Slave lights and when I asked Sara I think she thought I was asking if each light had a remote when you order more than one
 
The temp and humidity function on the remote doesn't seem to come from the light , it is from the remote . This makes no sense to me , why add that function to the remote and not coming from the light .
 
:circle-of-love:yes, Bud, LED is the trend.
Good points...... Too much HPS power is wasted as heat i think.... But in fairness, those lights are definately in the " weed hall of fame" for me.... They have proved effective and without them the industry wouldnt be so advanced without them... The power has developed outstanding strains, via the breeders.... But like most things, technology marches ever onward.... Bless you HPS, but it will soon be time to totter off into retirement and get a well deserved rest....

:high-five:
 
thanks for sharing Jesse. Very good work you have done!:thumb:
Sara youve already seen my work but would love to test the new light :) some of my plants:


Exodus cheese (uk clone) HPS

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Royal queen critical: (mars2)

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Bomb seeds big bomb: (HPS)

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As you know i like to grow single plant beasts so would love to test ur light and see how well it can do
 
:cheesygrinsmiley:the remote control will test the humidity and temp around the controller:hug:
I'm pretty sure the temp and humidity on the remote is from the remote, lol, yep , the light has been on for a while and no change in either temp or humidity, it's reading from the remote , so that is surely a wasted function , oh well .
 
Haha, randy, I haven't growed indoor before, so most of the time, I am learning.:cheesygrinsmiley: more advices are appreciated.:yahoo:
Sara commented about that a while back and they do not recommend leaving the remote in the grow room. This is what happens when items are designed for growers by non growers but on the bright side the lights look great and well made so hopefully changes will be quick and the comment was made that the lights are designed to accept new upgrades.
There is another light out there that has a great control system but the lights are a few generations behind and don't look like a lot of thought went into their design. I will take a great light with control issues any day I just really want to see a Cree test or at least in depth specs and output results I really wonder about coverage with the curved design
 
:hug: this is what we want to prove. The LED with secondary lens sometimes may cause hot spot on the leaves. This is also another reason why we don't want to add it, althout the PAR looks higher in the middle. :Namaste:
The lens on the LED's concentrate the light to the center excessively and very little to the sides.

The panel without the secondary lens provided a large degree of uniform coverage.

I understand it as the video describes and is why I will never buy a led with a secondary lens.

My Preference is to keep the lights 12 to 16 inches above the canopy to make use of the panels output.
 
:party: thanks for sharing, arellanobrian.:thumb:
Weekly update on the ThunderHaze auto and Dark Dragon seeds from #kingdomorganicseeds. the camera was acting up this week so i had to do the shoot over and over again haha sorry if it seems a bit weird this week. hope you all enjoy!

 
:circle-of-love: hi tucker, Mylar is good reflective material. According to some studies from the Internet, it has 90~95% reflectivity compared to flat white paint of 85~95% light reflectivity. For Indoor grow, Mylar tent is a good choice.:circle-of-love:
Reflective Material
With LED lighting needing distance for the light to blend, I'm wondering if mylar is the best reflective material. Sara, have your guys done any testing on mylar vs flat white paint or another material?? My cabinet is lined with mylar and I can't tell if it's doing anything. I see many different colors from the LED's. Mylar is the go-to for the MH guys but may not be the correct thing to do with LED's. Anyone else have this concern?
 
:thanks: thanks for the info in a practical way.:cheesygrinsmiley:
I would think Mylar is the best for LED since it's heat conductivity is less of an issue with LED. I attribute much of my light coverage to the reflective material of the Mylar, especially the lower canopy. In most of my photos the only shadows I can find in my tent are those created by the main flap being open to take the photos.
 
:circle-of-love: Ricky, pm replied.
Hey everyone, I'm going to jump in here with a question that seems kinda dumb to me but I simply don't know.

In my room I have very limited head space so I use 12 t5 bulbs over head but I do have space on either end of my 2.5X5 flowering table. I run a SOG style grow where 12 plants are harvested off the right side of the table and the planets all shuffled down and 12 new onto the left side of the table every two weeks so essentially the 12 plants to the right side of the table are always the farthest into flower and within2-3 weeksof harvesting. I'm pretty happy with my results but wanted a boost and was considering hanging a 300ish watt led off the end of the right side of the table shining in sideways as side lighting. I grow in two liters bottles so they are 6 to a row and 9rows deep. I was thinking as side lighting the led could probably penetrate to hit 12-24 plants(2-4) rows which would be the most mature at all times. Would that make any sense to do?
 
:circle-of-love: Hi Steve, here is the recommended hanging distance:
germination 24-30inches above the plants
veg:18-24 inches above the plants
flower:12-18 inches above the plants
Hey I have recently purchased a marshydro 300w led of eBay 60x5w , I was just wondering what distance I should have the light from the top of the plant in veg and flowering? The grow room is 80x80
 
:high-five: thanks for the help, super~~
Welcome!!! If the plants have been under other lights (cfls etc) then start fairly high for a couple days and slowly lower the light as the plants adjust to it. I would start around 30" (65cm) and end around 24" (52cm) in veg. In flower you can get as close as 16-18" (35-40cm). You don't want to go too much closer because you will start loosing the "blend" of the lights. :peace:
 
Hi Neil, for the old models, they have different leds and drivers. When the warranty expires, we will still provide you the parts, but you have to take fulll repsonsibility for the delivery, parts and repair. :high-five:
When the warranty expires does MarsHydro still offer replacement parts to repair them? I have read here several times that the lights share the same led's and drivers, is this correct? If so what is the difference between old style and MarsHydro II? My old style are 120 x 5 I see many buy 60 x 5 also, these are old style but built in 2015?
 
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