420 Magazine Background

My first post - Just still learning - Few questions

Bowtie

New Member
This has been quite the informative forum, and the knowledge here is quite impressive.
There are literally THOUSANDS of sites, threads, and forums on these topics, and throughout months of reading, I somehow ended up her the last two days.
While I understand some of the terminology, some is still confusing as I am new.
By no means do I mean to post another "newbie" thread, but I realize the need for individual help and learning. If anyone would feel like taking the time to answer a few questions, I would truly be grateful.
So as long as no one minds, here goes. (Moderators, if this is not the place, please delete or move)

I am trying to figure out DWC for dummies, and am on my 2nd rotation. I originally started with just a few suggestions from my local store, and that what is initially led to me research the "Dyna" line. I am running one single plant, in a 4x4 under a Philips 315, and have been reading about the Dyna line. I initially purchased the 3 part GH line, but at the suggestion of my local store, I purchased something "easier" to use. So I now have "grow, and Bloom" and have been told to keep my ppm at about 500 for veg, and no higher than 700 for bloom. I have been told to switch to bloom once I change to 12's after about a month or so.
I have also been instructed to buy UC RootS, H202, and Kool bloom, and simply read the instructions on the bottle.
I see some people here are talking about a feeding schedule that has to do with a decimal number, EC or something, i don't really understand what that is.
I tried this once before, and had a root issue very early on, so I have been reading for months, and am going to try it again. My roots would turn brown and almost wither whenever I changed water.
SO if anyone has it in them to share a little knowledge to help a newbie, it would be greatly appreciated.

SO Dyna line grow and bloom. Do I need additional nutes?
4x4 tent.
fan and filter
one plant.
Philips 315
plenty of air into bucket, possibly too much, still reading.
5 gal DWC bucket
Tap water, according to local shop, we have "good" water with Cal, and mag, comes out about 150 ppm.
tent stays at 74.
water temp stays at 68 ( checked all week long)
Keeping ppm at 500 with grow now
ph 6 +or- .3

usually check ppm and ph once every other day,
and have been told to change water once a week.
For now, I have been told to "top off" and check ppm and PH

Literally I'm asking for help for dummies,
But I will pay attention, and order whatever needed to succeed.
I just want to learn.

Some more specific questions would be,
How often to add UC and h2o2


Thank you
 

DukeO

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I have been running DWC buckets for about four years now.

When I started out I had a lot of root issues myself.

I tried a lot of things like h2o2 and many others.

But it was z7 water treatment that was the game changer for me.

I have not had any root issues now for over three years while using it.

I also use tap water that is about 160ppm.

I also ran GH 3part for about 2years and then I moved over to Botanicare Kind.

I hear Dyna line is a good one. You should not need much additional nutes if any.


Hope that helps a little...
 

Planter420

Plant of the Month: Feb 2018 - Creme de la Creme Photos: Mar, May, July, Oct 2017
I'll try to enlighten you a little bit on hydro. First off we'll start with the brown roots. Gotta keep water temps between 62 and 68 and you absolutely no way around it need an aquarium air pump and an air stone. There can be zero light getting into your bucket so use black ones with the black lid net pot.

Whatever nutrients you decide on, make sure you buy a tds meter and a ph meter. Don't worry about the EC (electrical conductivity) it measures the concentration of salts. Do a res change every week and clean the bucket good and the EC won't get high. No nutes for the first two weeks, with the exception of a root stimulant if you choose to use one, and some kind of beneficial. H2O2 is ok for short term use when you are trying to battle the root rot but only effective for a short time. I use botanicare hydroguard but will be switching to z7 as a few of my buds on here are having excellent success using it to battle the effects of higher than desired water temps.

Nutes:
I cannot recommend anything you've listed as I only use advanced nutrients. It's expensive but works so well. During veg you can just use your base without a bad outcome but I suggest something similar to AN's B52. Do your research on bloom boosters on your own because there's plenty of time until you flip to decide what you need but for bloom I suggest you follow your base nutrients recommendation for ratios in flower. Please start at quarter to half strength when you first begin nutes and work your way up. I've never reached full strength with my base nutes. But in bloom, for example, after the transition phase, which will last around two weeks from the flip to the 12/12 light cycle, when I see flowers start I use AN Big Bud at half strength but work it up to full over the next week or two. Don't go crazy with nutes you will burn up the leaves. Keep an eye on the tips of the leaves as well as the tips of the serrations in the leaves. If they are frying you gotta dump your rez and remix a less lethal batch (lower ppm , or parts per million of your tds or total dissolved solids).

Any questions feel free to ask and you are welcome to visit any of our journals and I'm sure you can find some useful info there. Happy growing!
 

Bowtie

New Member
My bucket is holding at 68
I've read about the z7, my question is does the UC roots, or H202 fight against Z7?
Im assuming z7 is what is known as a "beneficial bacteria" do I add it with each "top off" or just water change?

And thank you so much
 

Planter420

Plant of the Month: Feb 2018 - Creme de la Creme Photos: Mar, May, July, Oct 2017
It's an enzymatic cleaner, pretty sure it is microbial. No need for h2o2 whilst using it. As for the Uc roots idk what that is. If it's a root stimulant it should be fine

Edit: I'd add every top off as well
 

Scientific

New Member
Hi -- Just a couple of thoughts:

Roots:
I think H2O2 gets way overused. Use it if you have an infection but not like vitamins. It is a toxic substance that kills bacteria, even beneficial ones. If you need H2O2, you have a problem with your setup.

Z7: Seems popular. My understanding is that it is enzymes, not bacterial.

Hydroguard: Highly recommended. It is a culture of beneficial bacteria that you add at every water change. My reservoir was in the 80s F for weeks and even got into the low 90s for a couple of days during a heat wave and my plant and its roots didn't miss a beat! Hydroguard is kind of expensive but has a big following for a reason! You set up a thriving biosystem of beneficial bacteria and the bad stuff can't get a toehold. I do think that good circulation in the tank really helps. Remember that when your rez gets choked by roots that the circulation will decrease. A big res and an extra circulation pump can help. (The bad stuff loves stagnant water.)

EC & PPM:
EC is the actual measurement of how much electrical current flows through your medium, which of course varies with how much fertilizer is in there. PPM is derived from EC. There is a formula to convert back and forth that you can look up. All that matters is that you pay attention to the concentration in your res. Since most use PPM, that's what I use.

Nutes:
All you really NEED is N, P, K, and micronutrients, and any fertilizer regimen will give you those. The recommended amount to use from manufacturers tend to be on the heavy side (because "they want to sell bottles" according to one gal), so using a half dose or even less has worked for me. That said, some of the expensive add-on nutes with clever marketing names do seem to work for some and have a following, but I'd be wary. The marketing people want your $$$ and will tell you all kinds of BS to get it. All your plant needs is the essential mineral components to make tissue, and that's really all the manufacturers have to sell you. remember that pot grows fine in plain old dirt & chicken sh*t.

Overall though from your post it looks like you are doing your research and being methodical, so all you really need now is the practical experience. I would remind you to take good notes that you can refer back to, but reading your post I'll bet you are already doing that.

Just my .02...
Good luck and have fun!
 

Planter420

Plant of the Month: Feb 2018 - Creme de la Creme Photos: Mar, May, July, Oct 2017
Well put. "Science and shit" as you've said to me lol, you always have the best explanations and advice.
 

Bowtie

New Member
I cant thank you guys enough.
I will be stopping at the store on the way home.

Last question I have (yea right) is will the z7 and hydroguard combat each other at all?
 

DukeO

Well-Known Member
(will the z7 and hydroguard combat each other at all? ) No they work fine together.

I used both for a while and then one day I ran out of hydrograud and I thought I would see how z7 worked on it's own. That was about three years ago and I have not had any root issues with rez temp up to 80f. So I just use z7 tap water and nutes now.
 

Scientific

New Member
(will the z7 and hydroguard combat each other at all? ) No they work fine together.

I used both for a while and then one day I ran out of hydrograud and I thought I would see how z7 worked on it's own. That was about three years ago and I have not had any root issues with rez temp up to 80f. So I just use z7 tap water and nutes now.
One other note on Hydroguard: though I love the stuff, it is expensive as I said earlier and it also has a shelf life (i.e. the bacterial culture in the bottle only lives so long, I assume). If Z7 is an enzyme then a bottle of the stuff will probably last just about indefinitely.

I just checked my bottle. Hydroguard is guaranteed for 2 years from date of purchase and for six months from the time you open it. Tick tock!
 

Scrogdawg

Well-Known Member
I use Z7 and it works as well as others have said already. My understanding is that either Z7 or Hydroguard work well, but I believe its an either or thing, not both at the same time.

Scientific has given you very solid advice above.
 

Fennario

Member
I veg in 8 - 5 gal DWC buckets and flower in an Under Current 6XL RDWC. I'm a strict user of UC Roots in the Under Current (for now) but I just got done experimenting with 4 of the veg buckets with UC Roots and the other 4 with Hydroguard. I had been hearing so much about it so I had to get it and compare.

It's getting hot where I live and my 4 x 8 tent stays around 90 degrees - with the flaps wide open - so my bucket temps were at best in the high 70's. More likely they were up the the low/mid 80's. Being in individual buckets there's really not a damn thing you can do to effectively reduce the rez temps if the air temp is in the 80's or more. Ice packs only work momentarily. So, I didn't try to do anything. This run I also tried NOT changing the rez - AT ALL - for the whole veg cycle. I topped off with nutes or RO as needed - and added UC Roots every 2 days like clockwork. Hydroguard only gets added once at the beginning of each rez. All 8 plants grew like gangbusters and I really didn't see any difference in growth between the 2 methods. However, Hydoguard TOTALLY wins in ease of use as well as cost. Using UC Roots is about 4x what Hydroguard would be.

In my Under Current I use UC Roots and a chiller but I'll probably do my next run with Hydroguard.
 

Fennario

Member
Oh, and I don't know anything about Z7, but I use Cannazyme - which I assume is the same sort of thing. This totally works well with Hydroguard - the enzymes break down the dead root material into nutrients that both the plants and bacteria can thrive in.
 

Scrogdawg

Well-Known Member
Very informative Fennario, thanks.

I've gone as long as 15 or 16 days without a res change and have often wondered where the edge of the envelope is. After your comments I may try to run this grow out without another change as long as it stays dialed in. That would be about 50 days.
 

Fennario

Member
Very informative Fennario, thanks.

I've gone as long as 15 or 16 days without a res change and have often wondered where the edge of the envelope is. After your comments I may try to run this grow out without another change as long as it stays dialed in. That would be about 50 days.
Some people totally go that long. I'm thinking that you might want to do a changeout before flower. It would be a good time to dump any unused nutes that might unbalance your mix as well as any particulate matter. Then just keep an eye on what the plants are eating - weather your ppm's go up or down - and adjust accordingly.
 

Scrogdawg

Well-Known Member
I'm already 25 days into flower. My system is solid 5.8 PH, 580 ppm, 1.1 EC, water is 68⁰F and tent runs in the low 70's and it hasn't moved for about 10 days so I like my chances right now. I can also readily see all the readings and would be able to jump on it if it decided to get wonky. Certainly would make life simpler if I can get away with it.
 

Fennario

Member
I'm already 25 days into flower. My system is solid 5.8 PH, 580 ppm, 1.1 EC, water is 68⁰F and tent runs in the low 70's and it hasn't moved for about 10 days so I like my chances right now. I can also readily see all the readings and would be able to jump on it if it decided to get wonky. Certainly would make life simpler if I can get away with it.
Yep - add Hydroguard and away you go!
 

Scientific

New Member
I've gone as long as 15 or 16 days without a res change and have often wondered where the edge of the envelope is.
A couple of times I have seen the recommendation that when you have topped off your reservoir with the equivalent of it's entire capacity, you are do for a complete change. (This was in a YouTube video by a guy with a big hydro setup and somewhere else.)

So if you had a 10 gallon reservoir, when you've added 10 gallons of top off water, you're due.

I have no idea if that's good practice, but I noted with interest that I had heard it twice.

Me, I completely empty and refill once a week, but it does seem like I could safely get by with less often...
 
Top Bottom