Spider mites & some sort of deficiency?

[datfatboi]

all of my plants have spider mites, i have white dots all over my leaves, i can see them even with a naked eye, tiny little black dots walking around the leaves...

i've been spraying my plants every 3-7 day's with bio insecticide, it's made paraffinic oil... not much luck, they don't even care! and i'm using the maximum dose.

i also have a stronger nonbiological insecticide i've used in the past, but i'm not sure if i can use it on flowering plants too?

i have 3 vegging plants infected and one that is less of a month away from harvest. what should i do?

don't suggest me "natural" remedies, these guy's are resistant as hell, i need something powerful to eradicate them

also, can spider mites spread by re-using soil?


the pics i posted is the plant with less mites out of all of them, but they're spreading, it also has some sort of deficency, calcium and nitrogen perhaps??? see pics

 

[Skunksta]

Yes you can to the soil question as for the mites/borg i have never had any luck getting rid the two times in my grow life
i have had them.I tried hard the first time to battle them 2nd time i new what i needed to do nuke/burn it all.but im sure
someone on here will have some ideas for you. The borg just keep marching on even jon luke pickard would have issue.

 

[datfatboi]

,

 

[Nunyabiz]

 

[datfatboi]

lmao cmon bruh, i'll have mites every single time i grow, they're everywhere in this area and are on all plants, i need to find a way to prevent and treat

 

[Skunksta]

I understand how you feel mate 6 ladies the first time 4 the time after all with nice buds until they starting taking over.
You cant fight the borg once they take hold only hope to manage and the final product is not wworth it. All i got to say
is pop pop cause everytime one burns u hear pop. Good luck I thats ME would follow Nunyabiz and burn it all.And not
all plants carry this little %^$£.

 

[Sueet]

SNS217 sounds like what you need, assuming it is available where you are.

 

[Rexer]

@Sierra Natural Science has some great products, have you checked them out?

 

[datfatboi]

can i apply the pesticide i have more often it says 7-12 day interval, what happens if i apply it more often?? there is no store even online selling SNS 217C here

 

[Sueet]

can i apply the pesticide i have more often it says 7-12 day interval, what happens if i apply it more often?? there is no store even online selling SNS 217C here

That sucks Do you have the ability to take the plant outside? Or perhaps go catch a few ladybugs and bring them in?

 

[datfatboi]

That sucks Do you have the ability to take the plant outside? Or perhaps go catch a few ladybugs and bring them in?

i tried the ladybugs thing, put like 20 on each of my plants both outdoors and indoors when i had mites, they all escaped both indoors and outdoors lmao

any idea how often i can apply paraffinic oil?

 

[Sueet]

Not a clue sorry : /

Next time with the ladybugs, maybe keep them in a jar or something for a few hours before releasing so you can be sure they are hungry? Idk, I would have assumed they'd stick around for free foodz.

 

[datfatboi]

Not a clue sorry : /

Next time with the ladybugs, maybe keep them in a jar or something for a few hours before releasing so you can be sure they are hungry? Idk, I would have assumed they'd stick around for free foodz.

i remember my father getting tons of them and releasing them in our garden ( we always have massive problems with pests around here in all of our crops)

they all fucking left lmao. perhaps eaten by the lizars? we have lots here.

 

[bruno12345]

Well, those are nasty visitors...
A real pain the a$$

Youre insecticide seems to be only mineral oil, if im not fooled. Not so "strong", but has insecticide properties.


But the thing against these little beasts is, most of the time, you wont eradicate them, but you can bring them "under control"

My take on chemical control:
Dont do it if you dont feel comfortable, or you dont study it.
Protective gear are mandatory.
DONT USE NEONICOTINOIDS FOR TREATING MITES (imidacloprid, acetamiprid, thiametoxan, etc.)

Plants on veggie:

Lambda Cyhalothrin EC or CS - Synthetic pyrethroid, most used on vegetables.
Kills adult forms of thousands of types of insects.
In spider mites, they cause eggs disruption, they delay the emergence, and also kill adults and some nymphs.

+

Pyriproxyfen EC or CS - Use the same formulation of your lambda, so you can mix them together.
PPF is a juvenile hormone analogue, a larvicide, it basically stops nymphs from achieving adulthood, and prevents eggs from hatching, so you lessen their reproduction. In scientific tests against spider mites, the females laid only 10% of eggs, in comparison to untreated mites. Its also a translaminar insecticide, meaning that it can be absorbed and spread on leaves (but not on xylem/phloem). It helps assuring your mite population wont go BOOM.
Half life on leaf are usually a week or two.

you can also treat your grow room and grow tent with this mix of Lambda+PPF. As long as you dont care for beneficial insects, as those will be gone too.
You need an application device for using, independent of the active you use.
The smaller the droplets, the better. So you can treat most parts of the leaves, and most importantly the underside of the leaves.


For flowering ones:
Neem oil preventive and corrective:
Also effective against mites, you can use it in flower, but i would stop at least at 14 days before harvest. It is said to have larvicide, insecticide and repellent properties.
You can make sequential applications to suppress mite populations.
Apply daily for 3-4 days.
Apply every 2 to 3 days for more 10 days

Apply weekly or every 14 days for preventive measures..

There is the Sierra Natural Science insecticide, but i never used it, as it is not avaliable where i live.
There are predatory mites also, but not avaliable here where i live too.

Be vigilant for your populations, using a white sheet underneath the leaves, and shaking the plant. Or using magnifying glass and visual inspections. Also look for mite leaf damage.
A strong healthy plant, with optimal calcium and fertilizer levels, also helps a lot when dealing with mites.
Remember to bud wash, independent if you use organic or chemical approaches.

 

[bobrown14]

lmao cmon bruh, i'll have mites every single time i grow, they're everywhere in this area and are on all plants, i need to find a way to prevent and treat

Here are 2 choices and BOTH are organic and BOTH work.

Wetable sulfur

Safer's 3 in 1

Looks like you're international - look for wetable sulfur - it's elemental sulfur that is micronized. Its primary use in horticulture is for treating mold and PM indoors and out. Side benefit it will kill mites of all sorts. Only need to apply 1x to kill everything. Then say 10 days later apply again.

Read label for instruction and follow. These are perfectly fine for hoo-man. Unlike most of the other treatments you may want to use that are "stronger" however not for use on cannabis.

Look into budwashing after harvest. It will rinse off all the dead nasties left behind.


Dont use neem oil on flowering plants. You wont have any weed that is smokeable it tastes like ASS.

 

[Skunksta]

never have i seen someone get rid of ALL there mites in flower never i may well be wrong but you always miss a leaf or
a mite. You manage them thats all that can be done in flower. Why people say you can is shocking.

 

[datfatboi]

Here are 2 choices and BOTH are organic and BOTH work.

Wetable sulfur

Safer's 3 in 1

Looks like you're international - look for wetable sulfur - it's elemental sulfur that is micronized. Its primary use in horticulture is for treating mold and PM indoors and out. Side benefit it will kill mites of all sorts. Only need to apply 1x to kill everything. Then say 10 days later apply again.

Read label for instruction and follow. These are perfectly fine for hoo-man. Unlike most of the other treatments you may want to use that are "stronger" however not for use on cannabis.

Look into budwashing after harvest. It will rinse off all the dead nasties left behind.


Dont use neem oil on flowering plants. You wont have any weed that is smokeable it tastes like ASS.

i did find wettable sulfur online. cheap as hell too. what's the dosage?

what do you think of 2g/L considering it says to use around 200g/HL for tomatoes?


can i use this along the mineral oil i'm already using?

does it ruin the taste of the buds?

does it hurt the plant/slow down growth?

thank you

 

[datfatboi]

Well, those are nasty visitors...
A real pain the a$$

Youre insecticide seems to be only mineral oil, if im not fooled. Not so "strong", but has insecticide properties.


But the thing against these little beasts is, most of the time, you wont eradicate them, but you can bring them "under control"

My take on chemical control:
Dont do it if you dont feel comfortable, or you dont study it.
Protective gear are mandatory.
DONT USE NEONICOTINOIDS FOR TREATING MITES (imidacloprid, acetamiprid, thiametoxan, etc.)

Plants on veggie:

Lambda Cyhalothrin EC or CS - Synthetic pyrethroid, most used on vegetables.
Kills adult forms of thousands of types of insects.
In spider mites, they cause eggs disruption, they delay the emergence, and also kill adults and some nymphs.

+

Pyriproxyfen EC or CS - Use the same formulation of your lambda, so you can mix them together.
PPF is a juvenile hormone analogue, a larvicide, it basically stops nymphs from achieving adulthood, and prevents eggs from hatching, so you lessen their reproduction. In scientific tests against spider mites, the females laid only 10% of eggs, in comparison to untreated mites. Its also a translaminar insecticide, meaning that it can be absorbed and spread on leaves (but not on xylem/phloem). It helps assuring your mite population wont go BOOM.
Half life on leaf are usually a week or two.

you can also treat your grow room and grow tent with this mix of Lambda+PPF. As long as you dont care for beneficial insects, as those will be gone too.
You need an application device for using, independent of the active you use.
The smaller the droplets, the better. So you can treat most parts of the leaves, and most importantly the underside of the leaves.


For flowering ones:
Neem oil preventive and corrective:
Also effective against mites, you can use it in flower, but i would stop at least at 14 days before harvest. It is said to have larvicide, insecticide and repellent properties.
You can make sequential applications to suppress mite populations.
Apply daily for 3-4 days.
Apply every 2 to 3 days for more 10 days

Apply weekly or every 14 days for preventive measures..

There is the Sierra Natural Science insecticide, but i never used it, as it is not avaliable where i live.
There are predatory mites also, but not avaliable here where i live too.

Be vigilant for your populations, using a white sheet underneath the leaves, and shaking the plant. Or using magnifying glass and visual inspections. Also look for mite leaf damage.
A strong healthy plant, with optimal calcium and fertilizer levels, also helps a lot when dealing with mites.
Remember to bud wash, independent if you use organic or chemical approaches.

Lambda Cyhalothrin EC or CS: couldn't find it anywhere perhaps it's sold under a different name here....

 

[bruno12345]

Lambda Cyhalothrin EC or CS: couldn't find it anywhere perhaps it's sold under a different name here....

Well, another options:

Bifenthrin (name of the active, product name may be different, i know in the USA there is BIFEN IT.
Another synthethic pyrethroid, but like microencapsulated lambda, this one doesnt cause ressurgence or outbreaks. Other reppelent pyrethroids or neonicotinoids may worsen your situation, they are related to outbreaks and ressurgence. Effects of sublethal concentrations of bifenthrin on the two-spotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae (Acari: Tetranychidae)

Abamectin (commercial name AVID)

i would advise applications spaced ten days in between, and these chemicals do not use in flower.
Bifenthrin is not leaf absorbed, so if you dont use fan leaves for nothing, rock on.

Also, after the bifenthrin applications, you can use neem oil every other day, for helping take them down.
With a bit of luck, and a good application, you can take them down for good.
Or at least have a good control for mantaining with natural pesticides during flower.

 

[datfatboi]

Well, another options:

Bifenthrin (name of the active, product name may be different, i know in the USA there is BIFEN IT.
Another synthethic pyrethroid, but like microencapsulated lambda, this one doesnt cause ressurgence or outbreaks. Other reppelent pyrethroids or neonicotinoids may worsen your situation, they are related to outbreaks and ressurgence. Effects of sublethal concentrations of bifenthrin on the two-spotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae (Acari: Tetranychidae)

Abamectin (commercial name AVID)

i would advise applications spaced ten days in between, and these chemicals do not use in flower.
Bifenthrin is not leaf absorbed, so if you dont use fan leaves for nothing, rock on.

Also, after the bifenthrin applications, you can use neem oil every other day, for helping take them down.
With a bit of luck, and a good application, you can take them down for good.
Or at least have a good control for mantaining with natural pesticides during flower.

i found Abamectin! can u tell me a bit more about it? there isn't a lot of info about it when it comes to applying it to weed