Temperature issues

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I don't understand why when my water temp is 77 my girl stands at attention but as soon as I cool room down and water temp is reaching 73 she starts to droop . after her rest for 6 hours of darkness she is back up right but probably crazy thing is it's 72 usually when I wake up to check on her before work . so do you guys have any suggestions or thoughts on this matter . BTW SO SORRY TO THIS THREAD OWNER I AM SO NEW TO THIS SITE I STILL DO NOT HAVE PERMISSION TO GET MY OWN GROW JOURNAL
 
droopinness is caused by water logging ...not the temps unless the temps are extreme. plants a loss have a natural dance they do aiming Thier leaves up and down at different times of the plants day. need more info really to tell ya. GFP
 
as far as the permission thing I do not understand it . but I will tell you a little about it . she is 13 days from seed started at 5.5 ph . transition to dwc went smooth but then last week got really hot. I was afraid root rot may set in because water temps were 85 86 for hours each day during veg. she was being feed 150 ppm including calmag for first 6 days then bumped it to 250 but after few days ph was high so I did a res change to be safe . I used different distilled water and after adding micro grow bloom it bounced from 5.6 5.7 needing no ph down I was extremely happy . well since I have posted this comment I decided to do check up on her . 4.2 ph 240 ppm so only eating 10 ppm of her food and nearly any water I am so stressed I may have shocked her possibly stunting her
 
trapgodd said:
I don't understand why when my water temp is 77 my girl stands at attention but as soon as I cool room down and water temp is reaching 73 she starts to droop . after her rest for 6 hours of darkness she is back up right but probably crazy thing is it's 72 usually when I wake up to check on her before work .
Click to expand...

There may be no causal relationship between the two. Are those the ONLY two differences?

It might be that you are cooling the entire room below the point at which cannabis can most effectively use the light-energy that it receives. Maybe, maybe not, but it is at least a theoretical possibility.

Depending on how you are cooling the root zone, you might be shocking your plants. I have seen that happen with the "toss in some frozen bottles of water" method.

Might you be providing insufficient oxygenation to your nutrient solution? Keep in mind the fact that you cannot add too much oxygen to your plants root zones. Well, in theory, but in the words of the late, great Roger Zelazny, "I very much doubt that you will ever attain that state of being," lol.
 
TorturedSoul said:
There may be no causal relationship between the two. Are those the ONLY two differences?

It might be that you are cooling the entire room below the point at which cannabis can most effectively use the light-energy that it receives. Maybe, maybe not, but it is at least a theoretical possibility.

Depending on how you are cooling the root zone, you might be shocking your plants. I have seen that happen with the "toss in some frozen bottles of water" method.

Might you be providing insufficient oxygenation to your nutrient solution? Keep in mind the fact that you cannot add too much oxygen to your plants root zones. Well, in theory, but in the words of the late, great Roger Zelazny, "I very much doubt that you will ever attain that state of being," lol.
Click to expand...
frozen water bottles lol you caught me red handed . can't used my home made chiller the copper can't be inside my res :/
 
Ah. I did have my suspicions ;) .

Be aware that, under most conditions, the level of DO (dissolved oxygen) in the solution is far more important than that solution's temperature.

Do you fish? Minnows? Fancy boat, with live wells? Notice when it's reasonably cool, the minnows are fine for a while in just a bucket of water, but when it starts getting HOT outside, they start looking/acting pretty poor unless you stick them into something that has active aeration? Same thing. Hot water naturally holds less DO than cooler water does.

Provide enough dissolved oxygen to your plants' root zones - and do so on a continual basis - and you'll still have healthy white roots even when temperatures rise to the extreme (well... within reason, lol - we are not making soup, after all). Especially if you are also providing a great deal of air circulation / wind to aid in the plants' natural cooling process of taking up water and transpiring if from the leaves' stoma, sort of like when we sweat in order to self-cool. Sweat heavily in a humid environment where there is no wind and you have only gone from miserably hot to miserably hot, sticky, wet, and stinky. Do the same in a less humid environment where there is a good stiff breeze, and you might even be comfortable.

Try to keep your root zone cool. But make sure to keep it oxygenated!(!!!!)

I don't remember whether or not I mentioned aquarium power head devices in this thread. Everyone (running DWC hydroponics) seems to use air pumps, powering various types/sizes of air stones/diffusers/etc. And that's good. By all means, do so. But I feel (and have found it to be true, at least for me) that an aquarium powerhead in every reservoir provides for far more oxygenation. Here is a picture of the type I use when running DWC:
tominaga_dive_power_85_aquarium_power_head.jpg


That's one of the few (very, very few, I promise!) that I've purchased at ChinaMart. I'll even look it up for you... AquaTech Power Head - $22.82. Walmart item number: 000887148 . I will not provide a link, because it is possible that one of our sponsors sells the same product (or a very similar one). But if you type "walmart aquarium power head" (without the quotation marks) into any handy Internet search engine, that should be the first result. Cheap, made out of plastic just like everything else that WalMart sells other than paving stones and their manufactured-by-eight-year-old-girls-in-sweatshops clothing, but they work fine and should last you at least a year of 24-hour/day use. And, since there are more WalMart stores in this country than open sores on a leper, you probably have one in or near your town. Just head to the pet supplies, specifically their aquarium stuff. There are probably a half dozen or so on the shelf. Get one of those, install it (IOW, lick the suction cup and stick it to the side of your reservoir and then plug the thing in), drop a mouse into your reservoir, and see how much longer it takes him to drown than it would have before. Okay, I'm joking about that part, but...

^^^THAT^^^ is a proper DWC reservoir aeration device. Just like THIS is a proper fish to real in (remember to carry a large caliber pistol for when it thrashes around and breaks your arm, lol):
Aligator_Gar_1.jpg
 
TorturedSoul said:
Ah. I did have my suspicions ;) .

Be aware that, under most conditions, the level of DO (dissolved oxygen) in the solution is far more important than that solution's temperature.

Do you fish? Minnows? Fancy boat, with live wells? Notice when it's reasonably cool, the minnows are fine for a while in just a bucket of water, but when it starts getting HOT outside, they start looking/acting pretty poor unless you stick them into something that has active aeration? Same thing. Hot water naturally holds less DO than cooler water does.

Provide enough dissolved oxygen to your plants' root zones - and do so on a continual basis - and you'll still have healthy white roots even when temperatures rise to the extreme (well... within reason, lol - we are not making soup, after all). Especially if you are also providing a great deal of air circulation / wind to aid in the plants' natural cooling process of taking up water and transpiring if from the leaves' stoma, sort of like when we sweat in order to self-cool. Sweat heavily in a humid environment where there is no wind and you have only gone from miserably hot to miserably hot, sticky, wet, and stinky. Do the same in a less humid environment where there is a good stiff breeze, and you might even be comfortable.

Try to keep your root zone cool. But make sure to keep it oxygenated!(!!!!)

I don't remember whether or not I mentioned aquarium power head devices in this thread. Everyone (running DWC hydroponics) seems to use air pumps, powering various types/sizes of air stones/diffusers/etc. And that's good. By all means, do so. But I feel (and have found it to be true, at least for me) that an aquarium powerhead in every reservoir provides for far more oxygenation. Here is a picture of the type I use when running DWC:
tominaga_dive_power_85_aquarium_power_head.jpg


That's one of the few (very, very few, I promise!) that I've purchased at ChinaMart. I'll even look it up for you... AquaTech Power Head - $22.82. Walmart item number: 000887148 . I will not provide a link, because it is possible that one of our sponsors sells the same product (or a very similar one). But if you type "walmart aquarium power head" (without the quotation marks) into any handy Internet search engine, that should be the first result. Cheap, made out of plastic just like everything else that WalMart sells other than paving stones and their manufactured-by-eight-year-old-girls-in-sweatshops clothing, but they work fine and should last you at least a year of 24-hour/day use. And, since there are more WalMart stores in this country than open sores on a leper, you probably have one in or near your town. Just head to the pet supplies, specifically their aquarium stuff. There are probably a half dozen or so on the shelf. Get one of those, install it (IOW, lick the suction cup and stick it to the side of your reservoir and then plug the thing in), drop a mouse into your reservoir, and see how much longer it takes him to drown than it would have before. Okay, I'm joking about that part, but...

^^^THAT^^^ is a proper DWC reservoir aeration device. Just like THIS is a proper fish to real in (remember to carry a large caliber pistol for when it thrashes around and breaks your arm, lol):
Aligator_Gar_1.jpg
Click to expand...
I believe it has sufficiant oxygen for a new plant in a 1.5 gal micro bucket . I currently do have a Wal-Mart brand 60 gal /air pump . running to check valves
420-magazine-mobile1892411954.jpg
just before it enters the bucket. inside the bucket are (2) 6" air stones with magnets glued to bottom so they stick to my metal shelving supporting bucket . it seems to cadillac when temps and ph are where I want them .
 
trapgodd said:
as far as the permission thing I do not understand it . but I will tell you a little about it . she is 13 days from seed started at 5.5 ph . transition to dwc went smooth but then last week got really hot. I was afraid root rot may set in because water temps were 85 86 for hours each day during veg. she was being feed 150 ppm including calmag for first 6 days then bumped it to 250 but after few days ph was high so I did a res change to be safe . I used different distilled water and after adding micro grow bloom it bounced from 5.6 5.7 needing no ph down I was extremely happy . well since I have posted this comment I decided to do check up on her . 4.2 ph 240 ppm so only eating 10 ppm of her food and nearly any water I am so stressed I may have shocked her possibly stunting her
Click to expand...

You have to have posted xx amount of times to be able to start your own thread or something like that. If you think about it, it's troll prevention. Unless you are interested in how to make $1500 per day working at home from you computer.
 
Good morning all! Looks like the Early Miss ladies are cozy in their nice new home in the house.
I dropped an Agent Orange seed in soil about a week ago and it seems to have slowed since it came in to the cooler climate. I'm thinking about trying to grow this AO plant outdoor anyhow because my grow room is set up for all auto's.
Thoughts on this? If I had a few other photo plants I would try running them in the barn together, but since it is just the one seedling, no reason to take up my whole grow room.
Has anyone here grown Agent Orange? How big do these guys get?
 
Preston9mm said:
trying to grow this AO plant outdoor anyhow because my grow room is set up for all auto's.
Click to expand...

Do you mean your light is running for more than 12 hours per day (or, technically, that you are giving them less than 12 hours of darkness per day)? Or that the space is not lightproof?

If merely the former, you should be able to grow an auto-flowering strain under a 12:12 schedule. You'll want to give them plenty of light, of course. But, AfaIK, you'd still have a more or less normal harvest - and could then grow phototropic strains at the same time.

The above is just what I have read. But it makes sense, since (sense, since... sinse, lol?) auto-flowering strains do not depend on any specific light schedule.

A plant that is growing in the ground in high temperatures will be much more likely to succeed than the same plant - under the same temperature conditions - which is in a pot. Stick a potted plant in a 104°F grow room and you can bet that its root system is 104°F (or even higher, if its pot is black and your light is shining on it). But the same plant, grow outside when the air temperature is 104°F may have a root system that is, while still hot, significantly cooler than that. Does that barn have a dirt floor? If so, dig down a foot, foot and a half, drop a thermometer into the hole (perhaps in a Ziploc baggie), and fill it in loosely. Place another thermometer (that you know reads the same as the one you just buried) at "pot level." Do this in the morning before temperatures have gone nuts. Come back after they've become nature's weapon, observe the temperature in your grow room... then pick up your shovel and observe the temperature under it.

Sun and heat are two different things (sort of). That's why a lot of the "help, I'm growing outdoors and it's HOT out!" type threads may not be of extreme help, because they discuss things like shading your plants from a merciless Sun. Your plants would still be basting in their own juices (so to speak) if you left your lights off, lol, so shading them won't help. I've seen a few threads about attic grows and strain recommendations for same that may help. Breeders such as Mandala have strains that are said to do well in hot climates. Look into something like an African landrace. And, if you run one, plan on giving it as much light as possible. My Kali Mist (Serious Seeds) is said to be able to handle warmer temperatures, but IDK because I have not flowered it yet (been in vegetative growth since last Autumn :rolleyes3 ), and I've been trying to keep the temperature... humane. I did see temperatures last year around 100°F, maybe slightly higher and (especially since it's just in a five-gallon bucket of soil/perlite instead of a nice 20+ gallon DWC reservoir) so I kept it in vegetative growth while I saved up for an air conditioner. Then I finally got one, was looking forward to switching to flowering... and one of the most favorite cats I've ever had - one that I adopted at a time when feeding myself was somewhat difficult because it was a stray that had been tortured nearly to death, that I nursed back to health and in the process undoubtedly financed the veternarian's next island vacation... ended up dying in the middle of my grow room floor, and it kind of took the wind out of that particular sail. Strange... I've had family/friends die that didn't hit me quite like that. Anyway, I pretty much ignored the plants for quite some time. My best friend probably watered the poor plants more than I did later that fall and Winter. It's living in the 90s currently, but is looking kind of... peaked. I am guessing that's because it keeps growing into a 350-watt LED and going all crunchy. I'm thinking about going in there with a machete (lol, not really, but...), straightening things up, tying them down, and switching to flower. But, to do so, I'll have to expand the 3'x3' space to 3'x5' or so - and that would be barely adequate - which would require me to add a 400-watt HPS. And the only problem with THAT is that I have... 30-amp electrical service :yikes: . In practice, that means I could run both lights, but I'd probably have to unplug either my refrigerator (small loss there, lol), my sump pump (that'd be trickier, since it pumps out a 3'x4' hole every 15 minutes even in drought conditions), or both. Tricky, that...

Err... But they say Kali Mist tolerates high temperatures. I know it used to, but I also know that one of the parents of the strain has changed since I grew it years ago, so IDK.
 
This is why I joined this group! I was thinking similarly, but keep reading threads by "auto experts" saying 24 hour sunlight is great for them. Makes sense, but I was really wondering how much harvest would actually be stunted if I went to 12/12. I'm only growing for myself, so a bit of yield loss doesn't bother me as long as my plants stay growing and healthy.
 
Preston9mm said:
This is why I joined this group! I was thinking similarly, but keep reading threads by "auto experts" saying 24 hour sunlight is great for them. Makes sense, but I was really wondering how much harvest would actually be stunted if I went to 12/12. I'm only growing for myself, so a bit of yield loss doesn't bother me as long as my plants stay growing and healthy.
Click to expand...
Not sure if 12/12 will stunt it but it will extend the grow time like a normal photo in flower

I was going to do it myself, but created a 3rd grow spot so didn't need to

They are tuff plants...I'm sure they will do just fine
 
Calvados said:
You have to have posted xx amount of times to be able to start your own thread or something like that. If you think about it, it's troll prevention. Unless you are interested in how to make $1500 per day working at home from you computer.
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pretty sure I have killed my plant . since the other days post I have flushed nutes with 6.6 ph water . I'm not even sure if it matters what ph the distilled water is since the plants not absorbing anything but the water . and after some thinking I went back in cleaned res . water temp is 73° room temp 72 ° and after adding 5ml micro 5ml grow 5 ml bloom . 2 ml hydrogaurd . 1 ml cal mag to distilled water . so after all that my ph was 5.2 I added my ph up stores well came back after 15 min checked on .
ph 5.7 880 ppm after ph up . I am adding micro in first . and this is my first time with mixing nutes. so I will start saying I do not mix them all in one dose and add to water I do it in steps cleaning the tools as I move from micro to grow to bloom . now I only add ph up or down at the end never mix both up and down together. I usually shoot for a number and if I'm close I don't screw with it . as far as light I am 18 " from plant tops . only because I am not home to watch them I wp ukd like them closer but believe my rooms temp may cause leaves to curl . if anyone out here wanted to chime in let me know if I'm doing something wrong that would be awesome be sure after res change last night she looked like she was dead . I switched her to light off for sleep and checked thus morning she picked back up so hopefully I have not ruined the girl
 
Preston9mm said:
So, I'm new to growing, finished a grow on one plant in my life, so honestly, this is my first real grow. I live in the middle of nowhere on 12 acres and originally started my grow outside. Due to shitty weather and rain, I built a small grow room in my barn. I'm running a 1000 watt LED, so, not much heat from my lighting.
This grow isn't completely "no-budget" but I don't have a ton of money either. My grow room temp stays around 85°-100° during peak heat hours but stays around 75°-80° at night. I have a 24" fan blowing fresh air from outside, but room still stays hot. I've even been placing frozen water jugs in front of my fan to keep temp down.
I'm looking for ideas before buying a window a/c unit to keep the heat down. I'm not opposed to spending the cash, but the barn I'm growing in looks abandoned from the outside and adding an A/C unit will definitely stand out.
Sorry folks, TX just ain't that kind to us cannibas growers, so I gotta fly low... For now...

Ideas?
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Cheep an ez way is get thin sheets of glass an separate the light from the grow so u have two chambers one for the light with small in an out fans to remove the unwanted heat an then likewise in your grow chamber kind of like a large air cooled shade but half the cost did this once in a tin shed as it was like growing in an oven! See you've move inside till u buy ya self an air conditioner unit so ya probably sorted just an idea for ya to ponder on! Best of luck with your grow. Spending money never ez but to grow like a pro it's sometimes necessary
 

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