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aline8,
so sorry you been down and under the weather. You'll bounce back soon and feel better.
I think we all see you was just thinking and being helpful, and sharing new ideas. Thats what makes you such a valuable member here.
I for one think
YOU CAN NOT STEP IN POOP UNLESS YOU WALK THROUGH THE COW PASTURE
and
YOU WILL NOT HAVE RESERVOIR HEAT ISSUES UNLESS YOU GROW IN A HOT ROOM!
Simple solution is stay out of the cow pasture and only grow in winter time or in a COOL room.
in from of the url put [ IMG ] and at the end [ /IMG ] with no spaces,
and we'll see a pic.
Another ignorant inquirey. This inquirey is being made to eliminate the foregoing condition. Is there any significant incentive to using 5" net pots as opposed to 3.5" net pots other than base area consumption?
The smaller cup is easier to tilt and stay tilted, if you need to tilt it.
I have question please(how do you like my Russian accent?) if I have a plant already started in a 3.75" netpot and I want to put it in a 5"one can this be done?
I want to move it into a 5ga. bucket and think a larger netpot would support better
I stacked a smaller pot into a larger pot and I think it held back the roots some. Not in a bad way mind you, but it took much longer for them to amass like I am use to. From bottom of pot number one to the bottom of pot number two is a 1-1 1/2" gap that is SOLID with roots.... BUT still it held them back from spreading out first.
I'm curious about those myths. Any chance you can relay them here?
For my Deep Water Culture Bro, sure, but I can do the ten and not the explanations.
I am using the word POT insted of cannabis:
1,Pot is Stronger than it used to be
2,The stronger the pot, the greater the health risk
3, Growing Hydro makes pot stronger
4, New Lighting Technology makes pot stronger5,
5, Nutes, additives and Supplements can make pot stronger
6, New imporved EXTRACTION methods makes Hash stronger
7, More trichs means more THC and makes pot stronger or more potent
I thought it was 10, but its only 7.
Bingo! You dont want to stay locked on a particular number otherwise you can lock out some nutes. The start low and drift up plan is a sound one.
I agree 100%. The more frequent the rez change the better. My plan is change every 7-10 days. A fully mature garden in full heavy bloom can deplete a rez of phosphor in as little as 48 hours.
My man I had nearly the same problem flying out of Vegas the other day. We were set to leave at 3:50 pm. President Obama was scheduled to fly in @ 5pm. For security they planned to shut down flights coming in and out an hour before and an hour after he landed. We thought we would get out in time but low and behold The Prez came in early so we ended up sitting on the tarmac for 2 1/2 hours. We had the crying babies, hot airplane, the works! We were one of 75 planes sitting. What a mess! It was kinda cool seeing Air Force 1 land though. + SWA gave us free beer on the flight and a flight attendant with an outstanding personality kept the situation light.
Don't we all love Obama? Bless his heart.
Let it flow Alien8! Let it flow! I know I've had my good and bad moments. I mean shoot, I use an R2D2 cooler for a cloner for crying out loud! I can only imagine the crazy feedback I would have recieved on that one if i would have talked about it before i did it.
A very effective way to cool a rez is with another rez used for cooling. It takes up space so it may not be feasible for some but here it goes.
You take another tub or preferably a cooler and you use the ice bottles w/ water to cool it. You can use a bunch of bottles, as many that you can fit and get the water super cold, like in the 40's or 50's in the cooler.
A pump is placed in the ice water and an insulated tube is ran from the pump to either a titanium or stainless steel tube or coil (no copper), back into some insulated tubing and then back into the ice water.
You then take the ice water line with the stainless steel tube spliced in it and submerge the stainless steel tubing into the bottom of the growing rez. The ice water travelling thru the steel tubing will have a chilling effect and cool the growing rez. This works the same as a chiller except it uses much less energy and is manually operated by having to change out ice bottles every day.
That cooler idea is one I will save and show to others with HEAT issues. Great post, OB!
only thing to say right now, very sticky fingers and scissors. will update later
SkinWins! I wish I was there!
I'd be scraping the scissors with a razor blade for you!
Rosemanonly thing to say right now, very sticky fingers and scissors. will update later
Happy Days!!!
thanks bro im in my first week of flower nutes and probly 10 weeks or more
if you would like to explain your method i would like to hear it.i dont think it would turn into a debate .pm it if you would like
hey rose,doing good bro just trying to understand the ppm thing,so when i do a res change i need to know the ppm of the tap water,and the ppm of my nute solution? ..i tried my truncheon last night in the res and it lit up on cf-16.do i use ec x 700 or ec x 500?
BTW, best wishes and get well soon Alien8.
Hey Roseman, couple observations on my end regarding res heat as you know I have been battling it.... and I have been watching closely... this might be redundant, sorry...
*Frozen bottles: To reiterate what everyone else has said.. Uh-huh, yes they DO damage the roots. Just recently I started to use them out of curiosity and I noticed that the ends of the roots become, well, brittle is best way I can describe it. I also think the bottles floating around loosely, bobbing and bouncing off the res walls, damages the roots against the res sides. I never had bits of roots in my res before until I started putting frozen bottles in, with the bottles in there I had root tips floating around constantly no matter how careful I was or placed the bottles in.
*Make more nutes than needed: This has worked out great so far, I think it was Trunk5 that turned me on to this. I now mix 4 gallons of nutes instead of 3 and keep one in the freezer (or fridge) and swap them out. Of course when sleeping I leave the extra gallon in the fridge, not the freezer, so I do not have a block of ice in the morning.... anyhow, my res temps stay in the high 60's, only reaching a mid 70 when I am sleeping, but first thing in the morn I do a water swap.
BootUmAll
Well-Known Member
Appreciate the response infexion1134. I'm just setting up a new res for future use. Wanted to know the pro's and cons of netpot size. Your response satisfies that curiosity. I'll make the holes for 5" pots.
Trunk5
New Member
Mr.Trunk5..
Sorry to hear about the trouble your Mother is having,, shes going to be alright though !! .... She has an awesome Son looking out for her,, and she is in many of our Prayers as well.. ..
You shouldnt be too bad off with the CRX though,, you could purchase a whole entire Short Block for the Car for about $400.00/$500.00 for a Long Block.. Just be SURE to Label the 200 different Vaccum Lines,, lol ,, been there,, done that.. Crazy why Honda puts soooo many of them damn things on such a little Motor,, wouldnt think such a tiny Block could even pull that much Vaccum.. lol .. ..
Anywho,, Best of Luck to ya my Friend.. Ill be keeping your Mother and yourself in our Prayers.. ..
well i thank you all, but my car wont be running anytime soon.. i got to manny bills to take care of especially now. and finding the d16a6 for 500 is a hard task to do. last one i saw had 90,000 miles on it, but still i cant evan afford that.
You have to learn how to determine a TARGET ppm and then arrive at that target.
When I first start a new grow I start with 1/4 dose nutes to be safe. A day or two after I see the second node or 4th leaf, (two sets of two leaves, not counting those first two round leaves), I introduce 1/4 strenght nutes. I increased them to half strenght, or a 2nd dose of 1/4 strenght nutes two days later when I see the 3rd node. I could safely do this with the Stealth Hydro Nutes. They are not too strong to cause damage at that strenght becuase they ae designed for CFL grows. HID light users can and should use higher NPK nutes, or stronger strenght nutes.
A day or two later, I see a 4th node, and increase the strenght of the nutes again by adding another 1/4 dose, bringing me to FULL-Strenght nutes.
That is when I measure my ppm, but by then, the plants are eating the nutes too. My ppm is only 200 to 300 then, and 75 to 100 of that is my well water. (I am still in the Feeding Sprouts Stage) In no way am I saying that is what your ppm should be too. I am just telling you what mine normally is. I try for a weaker strenght feeding to make sure I do not burn them up and get nute burn. In past grows, I did use more nutes, strongers doses, more often. And consequently, I always get some nute burn.
After the first two weeks pass, I do a Drain and Replinish. I add back a full dose of nutes and my ppm is 280 to 350, telling me my target ppm to stay at the same level during the late Sprout Stage or Early VEG or GROW cycle.
As I daily added a half of gallon of water, and a 1/12 packet of nutes, my ppm grows to 350 to 400, or bounces between 250 and 350 as they eat. (Before the feeding, it is 220 ppm, after the feeding it is up to 350)
By the time I am in my 3rd week, and they are drinking a full gallon of water a day, and I am adding back 1/6 dose of nutes, my ppm is between 360 to 440 daily. But that number is not important to me or you. What is important is tracking it, writing it down daily, to determine how much more nutes I should add or not add.
Let me rephrase this.
Do not worry about the exact ppm number, or any number from a chart or from me and my grow. Instead watch, record, and track how it rises or falls from day to day. The differences between what you have in there on one day, and the readings you get the next day will tell you how much your plants are eating. Of course, you do this daily, at the same time of day.
And remember, just because a gallon of water is gone, does not mean they also ate 1/6 of the nutes. Maybe you had HIGH HEAT and they were very thirsty but not as hungry.
bendog420, THE ANSWER TO YOUR QUESTION IS
First, determine the ppm of your water sourse. Say it is 100 ppm. Then fill the tank with the proper amount of water and a complete dose of nutes and read the ppm. Say it is 350 for example. If tomorrow a gallon of water is gone, and the ppm says higher than 350, or is still close to 350, then they did not eat and they do not need more nutes, they only need more water. Your reservoir's water and nute solution is more concentrated, telling you to add more water only to dilute the concentration.
If the ppm went down to say 250 from 350, and a gallon of water is gone, they need a gallon of water, plus enough additonal nutes to bring the ppm back up to 350. And that is the real purpose and use of a ppm meter, to determine that need and how much.
No one can tell you what your ppm should be PRECISELY OR EXACTLY. It will vary from garden to garden, to Different Sources of WATER, and vary from different nutrients too.
If your plants are very happy, and drinking and eating at the same level, then the ppm will remain the same daily.
If for example, 1/8 of the water is gone, and 1/8 the nutes are gone, then the concentration remains the same and the ppm will remain the same.
I would like to offer a ppm chart as a rule of thumb or ball park target ppm, but each grow or garden is going to be different.
These numbers are based on EC readings, .500 readings, TDS readings converted from EC or the common Hannah Chart:
Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250
Early Vegging 300 to 400
Full Vegetation 450 to 700
Early Blooming 750 to 950
Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600
(this excludes the ppm of your water)
IF growing with CFLS, reduce the ppm numbers by 20%.
Posting these long answers are not so easy, but sometimes the answer is just long.
You have to learn how to determine a TARGET ppm and then arrive at that target.
When I first start a new grow I start with 1/4 dose nutes to be safe. A day or two after I see the second node or 4th leaf, (two sets of two leaves, not counting those first two round leaves), I introduce 1/4 strenght nutes. I increased them to half strenght, or a 2nd dose of 1/4 strenght nutes two days later when I see the 3rd node. I could safely do this with the Stealth Hydro Nutes. They are not too strong to cause damage at that strenght becuase they ae designed for CFL grows. HID light users can and should use higher NPK nutes, or stronger strenght nutes.
A day or two later, I see a 4th node, and increase the strenght of the nutes again by adding another 1/4 dose, bringing me to FULL-Strenght nutes.
That is when I measure my ppm, but by then, the plants are eating the nutes too. My ppm is only 200 to 300 then, and 75 to 100 of that is my well water. (I am still in the Feeding Sprouts Stage) In no way am I saying that is what your ppm should be too. I am just telling you what mine normally is. I try for a weaker strenght feeding to make sure I do not burn them up and get nute burn. In past grows, I did use more nutes, strongers doses, more often. And consequently, I always get some nute burn.
After the first two weeks pass, I do a Drain and Replinish. I add back a full dose of nutes and my ppm is 280 to 350, telling me my target ppm to stay at the same level during the late Sprout Stage or Early VEG or GROW cycle.
As I daily added a half of gallon of water, and a 1/12 packet of nutes, my ppm grows to 350 to 400, or bounces between 250 and 350 as they eat. (Before the feeding, it is 220 ppm, after the feeding it is up to 350)
By the time I am in my 3rd week, and they are drinking a full gallon of water a day, and I am adding back 1/6 dose of nutes, my ppm is between 360 to 440 daily. But that number is not important to me or you. What is important is tracking it, writing it down daily, to determine how much more nutes I should add or not add.
Let me rephrase this.
Do not worry about the exact ppm number, or any number from a chart or from me and my grow. Instead watch, record, and track how it rises or falls from day to day. The differences between what you have in there on one day, and the readings you get the next day will tell you how much your plants are eating. Of course, you do this daily, at the same time of day.
And remember, just because a gallon of water is gone, does not mean they also ate 1/6 of the nutes. Maybe you had HIGH HEAT and they were very thirsty but not as hungry.
First, determine the ppm of your water sourse. Say it is 100 ppm. Then fill the tank with the proper amount of water and a complete dose of nutes and read the ppm. Say it is 350 for example. If tomorrow a gallon of water is gone, and the ppm says higher than 350, or is still close to 350, then they did not eat and they do not need more nutes, they only need more water. Your reservoir's water and nute solution is more concentrated, telling you to add more water only to dilute the concentration.
If the ppm went down to say 250 from 350, and a gallon of water is gone, they need a gallon of water, plus enough additonal nutes to bring the ppm back up to 350. And that is the real purpose and use of a ppm meter, to determine that need and how much.
No one can tell you what your ppm should be PRECISELY OR EXACTLY. It will vary from garden to garden, to Different Sources of WATER, and vary from different nutrients too.
If your plants are very happy, and drinking and eating at the same level, then the ppm will remain the same daily.
If for example, 1/8 of the water is gone, and 1/8 the nutes are gone, then the concentration remains the same and the ppm will remain the same.
I would like to offer a ppm chart as a rule of thumb or ball park target ppm, but each grow or garden is going to be different.
These numbers are based on EC readings, .500 readings, TDS readings converted from EC or the common Hannah Chart:
Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250
Early Vegging 300 to 400
Full Vegetation 450 to 700
Early Blooming 750 to 950
Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600
(this excludes the ppm of your water)
IF growing with CFLS, reduce the ppm numbers by 20%.
thank you roseman
grownavy1091
New Member
Yes thank u rseman. I definately needed to see that agaiin, and I totally agree. I had to play with my ppm to see where the plants liked it the most. When. I was in mid flower my ppms were up to 1250-1300 and they loved it! They were under 4302 agrosun red. And I'm definately doing another grow soon. Probably around the same time as you Roseman, but with a few new toys. 600W lumatek, x4 silver edition hydrohut, and some Liquid karma and hygrozyme are gona get thrown in the mix as well. I'll be able to use the kool bloom full strength this grow since I'm stepping up to the 600. MC gave me one hell of an analogy involving a rocket ship, and fuel which made me cautious, so I used only 1/2 strength the whole grow, but the LOVED it. I'm definately sticking with the floraliscious plus though its an excellent organic enhancer and your roots explode! All of my netcups were kaput from the last grow. I was really mad that I ran outa room boh in the res and in my 3x3. Forgive me for babbling but just watching all the ingenuity from this group of wonderful individuals gives me more and more inspiration. Plan on doing 4 AK -48, and I might sneak one of my wonder women in the 5 gal bucket. ('Maybe). Lol
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