The Quadsquad Thread: A Community For Quadlining

My 2 indoor girls were put to flower 2 weeks ago, looking good. Can't understand the difference in size. Treated them both the same. hmmm
IMG_20220811.jpg

I topped my 2 monsters by the fence and cried a little. As Bill suggested, I am trying to clone them but don't have a big enough dome and aren't doing so well but at least still alive after a week.
IMG_20220811_175635_resized_20220811_055702391.jpg

My 3 clones will be up-potted next week-end. I decided to keep the Dyno in the middle and one of the others that have Mykko for my next flowering indoors. The Dyno has caught up with the older clones. The last one I will just up-potand put outside. As you can see above, my 2.25 by 4.5 sq. ft flower room has room for only two quads and it's tight as a nun's you know what. lol . Will try not to let the next two grow so wide for better air flow.
It also looks like my Bonzai Momma can use another trim. I am pretty sure that its time to put her in a 4 incher square and trim the roots if needed. I should think so, it was started with the bill284 method. Can't see the roots at the bottom due to the perlite.
Hate wasting clipping though. Wish that I knew more people who could grow them.
Cheers!
Will post the outside grow after I attack them next week-end

#Quadsquad
Did you forget to water the ones at the front?
Everything else looks good.
Hope your well Amigo.
Have a great weekend.
When you back at work?




Stay safe
Bill284 :cool:
 
Did you forget to water the ones at the front?
Everything else looks good.
Hope your well Amigo.
Have a great weekend.
When you back at work?




Stay safe
Bill28
Trust me Bill, the front ones never went dry. In the past, I had better luck just sticking them in the ground.
At least I kept the mothers below tree level. Can't wait for them to bud and stop growing.
Back at work last week.
Have a gr8 weekend yourself, my friend.
Cheers!
 
I would recommend looking at the adjustable kind though. I ended up removing the ones I have because they were going beyond 90 degrees!

SG
I did see a couple adjustable ones when I looked. I was going to keep an eye on your grow to see what you decided before I bought anything as I right now I am using twine(jute?) but the little strings that come off of it sometimes bother me as I don't really want them in the buds but I am not sure it really actually matters that much. I will probs end up with soft wire honestly.
 
I did see a couple adjustable ones when I looked. I was going to keep an eye on your grow to see what you decided before I bought anything as I right now I am using twine(jute?) but the little strings that come off of it sometimes bother me as I don't really want them in the buds but I am not sure it really actually matters that much. I will probs end up with soft wire honestly.
Many training with LST use pipe cleaners. With the jute you could also use little hooks to attach to the plant when they're small. I use segments of chain that I've pried open, and recently I've moved on to using @Hafta 's fishing weights (Hafta's Constant Stress Training)
 
Many training with LST use pipe cleaners. With the jute you could also use little hooks to attach to the plant when they're small. I use segments of chain that I've pried open, and recently I've moved on to using @Hafta 's fishing weights (Hafta's Constant Stress Training)
Azi,
Since you seem to be utilizing the CST training I thought I'd show you the latest addition to the technique. I am out of town fishing every other week so I can't do justice to a journal. This technique seems to be working very well.

I will call this technique Skirted CST.

Premise:
Leaves serve a variety of functions: energy absorption and transmission, nutrient and water storage, transpiration, etc. When the plant no longer needs the leaves they will turn yellow and/or brown, wither and die. The larger the leaf, the better it performs its functions.

Some of the leaves in the photos have been there since day one. They are all large and vibrant. I remove more than fifty leaves per day (when I am home) mostly from the canopy and the interior.
This is a Jack Herer Auto so there is limited time for training. The plant is 40 days old, 19 days into flower. There are 70 - 80 bud sites.




J22D40F19-2.JPG


J22D40F19-3.JPG
 
Azi,
Since you seem to be utilizing the CST training I thought I'd show you the latest addition to the technique. I am out of town fishing every other week so I can't do justice to a journal. This technique seems to be working very well.

I will call this technique Skirted CST.

Premise:
Leaves serve a variety of functions: energy absorption and transmission, nutrient and water storage, transpiration, etc. When the plant no longer needs the leaves they will turn yellow and/or brown, wither and die. The larger the leaf, the better it performs its functions.

Some of the leaves in the photos have been there since day one. They are all large and vibrant. I remove more than fifty leaves per day (when I am home) mostly from the canopy and the interior.
This is a Jack Herer Auto so there is limited time for training. The plant is 40 days old, 19 days into flower. There are 70 - 80 bud sites.




J22D40F19-2.JPG


J22D40F19-3.JPG

So, this is blowing my understanding up and now have questions. If I understand correctly you are leaving the lower large leaves and focusing on removing upper baby leaves during veg. This minimizes internodal spacing because they are not having to move to a spot with unobstructed light. These nodes are also getting premium light and the lower leaves are supplying nutrition.

Once you switch to flower you cease pulling leaves unless they block a top.

Sound about right?
 
So, this is blowing my understanding up and now have questions. If I understand correctly you are leaving the lower large leaves and focusing on removing upper baby leaves during veg. This minimizes internodal spacing because they are not having to move to a spot with unobstructed light. These nodes are also getting premium light and the lower leaves are supplying nutrition.

Once you switch to flower you cease pulling leaves unless they block a top.

Sound about right?
Well Yes but .... not exactly.

The lower leaves are supplying nutrition but they are also a back-up fuel tank in case moisture and/or nutrients are lacking.

I remove the leaves from the canopy BOTH during veg and flower. This is done through most of the grow to acclimate the plant to repairing damage. I have found this to dramatically increase the volume of the root system.
LED lighting reduces internodal spacing as well as premium lighting (my lights are between 6" - 8" throughout the grow.
I put moveable weights on the branches to PREVENT the primary top from receiving premium light. As the top turns back toward the light I move the weight further towards the top.
The secondary branches, which have the premium light, begin to become primaries. I then add weights and re-direct their path.
I will cease removing leaves after about four or five weeks of flower (unless they block a top). Now the plant that is used to repairing 50+ open wounds per day (leaf removal) can focus entirely on flower manufacturing.

I grow in a cabinet. The lighting set up is in the photo below. This was taken a week ago, before the trellis was installed.
J22D31-1.JPG


I am open to any questions..................
 
Kind of defeats the weaving and swaying though, no? Puts it more in LST land it would seem.
There are two fans in the back pointing in different directions through the plant.
The trellis was installed after two weeks of flower and colas began to form. Directional training has ceased. I took the photo below at ten days of flower.

J22D31-1.JPG
 
Azi,
Since you seem to be utilizing the CST training I thought I'd show you the latest addition to the technique. I am out of town fishing every other week so I can't do justice to a journal. This technique seems to be working very well.

I will call this technique Skirted CST.

Premise:
Leaves serve a variety of functions: energy absorption and transmission, nutrient and water storage, transpiration, etc. When the plant no longer needs the leaves they will turn yellow and/or brown, wither and die. The larger the leaf, the better it performs its functions.

Some of the leaves in the photos have been there since day one. They are all large and vibrant. I remove more than fifty leaves per day (when I am home) mostly from the canopy and the interior.
This is a Jack Herer Auto so there is limited time for training. The plant is 40 days old, 19 days into flower. There are 70 - 80 bud sites.




J22D40F19-2.JPG


J22D40F19-3.JPG
Wow Hafta!
Your canopy is to DIE for!
Do you only do 1 at a time to obtain the perfect plant? Cuz that plant is freakin' sweet!

kEEP UP THE GOOD WORK, BRO!
Cheers!
 
Wow Hafta!
Your canopy is to DIE for!
Do you only do 1 at a time to obtain the perfect plant? Cuz that plant is freakin' sweet!

kEEP UP THE GOOD WORK, BRO!
Cheers!
Scott,
Yes I do one at a time. When I first started growing again, hydro in a cabinet ( January 2021), I started a couple of Autos and began training them. I quickly ran out of room. Now, one plant at a time.
My last grow was a photo-period and yielded 14.5 ounces of manicured, dried, and cured. It was 22" tall. Easier to train since I can determine when to flower. These autos are really fast.
 
I guess I should have elaborated a little about the trellis.
After a couple of weeks into flower stretch a final trim (100+ leaves) is performed. This is the last action taken for CST. Once the colas begin to form (pistils taller than the surrounding leaves, more or less) all stresses are reduced or eliminated. The plant has extremely strong branches and limbs and a root system that is nearly twice what it needs. It is now free to use the extra resources to make buds.
The trellis is used to separate the colas vertically. Ideally there is one cola per 3" square.
The weights are still on the plant (about 75 - 80 10 gram weights) as you can see in the photos. If a cola with weights starts to sag from the weight of the bud, the weights will be relocated toward the trunk or removed entirely. Otherwise they will be removed at harvest.
 
Thanks for clarifying that. I thought you had just supported the outside edges with the string to keep the colas from spreading out too much in your cabinet, but your explanation makes more sense. Are you just tying it off to the container or something else?
 
I am growing in a metal cabinet so I use 80 pound magnets from Amaz***. Even the additional side LEDs are suspended by these magnets. The magnets make everything much easier ( fan mounting, trellis support, cable routing both inside and outside, USB microscope mount, hanging a towel, mounting a temp/humidity meter, storing weights, etc.)
 
Azi,
Since you seem to be utilizing the CST training I thought I'd show you the latest addition to the technique. I am out of town fishing every other week so I can't do justice to a journal. This technique seems to be working very well.

I will call this technique Skirted CST.

Premise:
Leaves serve a variety of functions: energy absorption and transmission, nutrient and water storage, transpiration, etc. When the plant no longer needs the leaves they will turn yellow and/or brown, wither and die. The larger the leaf, the better it performs its functions.

Some of the leaves in the photos have been there since day one. They are all large and vibrant. I remove more than fifty leaves per day (when I am home) mostly from the canopy and the interior.
This is a Jack Herer Auto so there is limited time for training. The plant is 40 days old, 19 days into flower. There are 70 - 80 bud sites.




J22D40F19-2.JPG


J22D40F19-3.JPG

That's 40 days old?? Whoa....

Mind if I join your thread? (Haha.)
 
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