Transplanting
- Thread starter dba1954
- Start date
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
If it’s a photo, go from solo cup to gallon to 5 gallon or bigger.
If it’s an auto, go straight into a 3 or 5 gallon.
I have a good writeup down in my signature for transplanting. I recommend using something like Great White Myka when you transplant. You see a huge grow boost afterwards if done correctly.
If it’s an auto, go straight into a 3 or 5 gallon.
I have a good writeup down in my signature for transplanting. I recommend using something like Great White Myka when you transplant. You see a huge grow boost afterwards if done correctly.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
yes, I have a strong opinion. There is no way to build a proper rootball without successive uppotting. Even with autos, uppotting a bit quicker, still helps you build a good amount of roots before you go into flower. If you choose the easy method of starting in your final container, you will likely grow a much smaller plant and less producing than if you had taken care to build your root system. You have to put the effort in to get superior results, in most things in life, and gardening is no different.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
My current run I went from a half solo cup, straight into the 5s. Just wanted to see what happens. I cut and buried two nodes when I transplanted. I definitely see the difference in height and the thickness of the stem. It’s kind of cool looking. In doing this I’ve found that the plants don’t grow nearly as tall as I’m used to seeing at this stage when I go from solo-1g-5g.
Roughly 6 weeks from sprout. 4 weeks after transplant. I ended up cutting those thick fans. The smaller one definitely benefited from it. She’s a lot perkier now.
Roughly 6 weeks from sprout. 4 weeks after transplant. I ended up cutting those thick fans. The smaller one definitely benefited from it. She’s a lot perkier now.
Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
Never been a fan of starting a seed in final size pot as this may lead to all sorts of watering problems for the novice grower.
Potting on or up potting depending on terminology on the part of the globe you come is a good practice to use.
I normally do this 2 or 3 times, but seeds are often started in pucks follow to pot around the same size of a solo cup for 2 weeks before potting on into final container or pot for the duration of the grow.
The only thing about final pot size is how often do you want to water them per week
Potting on or up potting depending on terminology on the part of the globe you come is a good practice to use.
I normally do this 2 or 3 times, but seeds are often started in pucks follow to pot around the same size of a solo cup for 2 weeks before potting on into final container or pot for the duration of the grow.
The only thing about final pot size is how often do you want to water them per week
- Thread starter
- #7
very interesting pots you are usingNever been a fan of starting a seed in final size pot as this may lead to all sorts of watering problems for the novice grower.
Potting on or up potting depending on terminology on the part of the globe you come is a good practice to use.
I normally do this 2 or 3 times, but seeds are often started in pucks follow to pot around the same size of a solo cup for 2 weeks before potting on into final container or pot for the duration of the grow.
The only thing about final pot size is how often do you want to water them per week
I've done it all sorts of ways.
"Usually" I do solo cup to 1 gal to 3 gal ---> Final pot and right into flower.
Amend the hole at each up-can.
"Usually" I do solo cup to 1 gal to 3 gal ---> Final pot and right into flower.
Amend the hole at each up-can.
not to speak for Fuzzy but yeah those last ones are called air pots,
there is an air hole in every indentation….
there is an air hole in every indentation….
SparkNShred
Well-Known Member
Good transplanting technique is very important. Only transplant when the the rootball is filled enough to hang together when knocked out of the pot. If it falls apart it's too soon. Don't let the rootball get too bound, though. Good timing will come with experience.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Honestly I thought that forever until this grow. I wanted to see what would happen if I went in with barely any root structure, just enough for the roots to start coming up the side of the half solo cup, then cut 2 nodes, and buried them in a 5 gallon felt. No issues at all.
The only difference I noticed was that they aren’t 3 feet tall at 6 weeks, but the stocks are thick!
I find myself questioning all of these routine processes that we’ve been following for years, and this is one that I think can go away in the BS books.
We’ll see how they are when buds start stacking, but at this point, I’m going to start dropping straight into 5 gallons after the first leafs break the edge of the solo cup.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Your plants will only be as good as the roots you develop in veg... and the best way to build roots in a closed container is by creating a root ball at each stage of successive uppottings. If you don't constrict the roots in a small space, they will simply grow down to the bottom and then try to develop off of that main vertical root mass. Constricting them forces the plant to grow more lateral roots, filling the entire container and creating a dense mass of roots that we call a rootball. It is a much better way to manage this weed into the bud making machine you want it to be.Honestly I thought that forever until this grow. I wanted to see what would happen if I went in with barely any root structure, just enough for the roots to start coming up the side of the half solo cup, then cut 2 nodes, and buried them in a 5 gallon felt. No issues at all.
The only difference I noticed was that they aren’t 3 feet tall at 6 weeks, but the stocks are thick!
I find myself questioning all of these routine processes that we’ve been following for years, and this is one that I think can go away in the BS books.
We’ll see how they are when buds start stacking, but at this point, I’m going to start dropping straight into 5 gallons after the first leafs break the edge of the solo cup.
People tend to uppot way too early too, and it does no good to stop restricting the space before the plant shows you that it has outgrown its container. You are also missing out on a lot of control you have over watering by uppotting early, because you totally lose the concept of a wet/dry cycle.
I start in solo cups. My plants don't get out of those beer cups until they earn the right to do so. A young seedling might take 7 days to totally use up the water in that cup at first, and I force it to grow new roots in search of that water, before I water again. Once I water, I wait again until the plant is able to drain ALL of the water in that cup. That second time, with more roots, the plant will be able to accomplish that task in 5 days. Each cycle the plant gets stronger and the rootball continues to develop, and the next time the plant needs water might be around 3 days. I want it to get to around 1 day. If the plant and those roots are able to drain my cup in 24-36 hours, my solo cup of soil has lost its buffer and it is time to uppot to a container 3-5 times larger.
When transplanting to the larger container, I water thoroughly to merge the two soil regions and then again, I wait 7-10 days for the plant to grow new roots into the new soil and find all of the water. Then I repeat what I did before, seeing the wet/dry cycle get shorter with each watering.
A gardener who does not do this, does not force the plant to grow new roots in search of water, ends up with a lazy plant with a very anemic set of roots. As in all things, your end result is dependant on how much effort you, and the plant, have to put in to get to the end.
Use your human knowledge to be smarter than your plant. You are in control... make your plant work for a living.
dynamohum
Well-Known Member
dynamohum
Well-Known Member
I transplant at least 3 times after cloning and if you count seeds 4 times. Have know idea it"s just what I do
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
There are lots of bad articles and websites and videos telling you to do the wrong thing. Please re-read what I wrote about how an unconstricted root system grows vertically and not laterally, filling the container. You can take this to the bank... The article you read told you you could do that, but if you dont want to be lazy and you really want to grow some quality pot, and lots of it, don't believe the shortcut enthusiast who is trying to sound smart. We have been growing in closed containers for thousands of years, and we know what happens when we constrict the space. We also know what happens if you take the lazy approach. You are free to choose either method... you "can" do it without killing your plant. Your final results hinge on your decision.
Pretty much how I do it.
grow em till they root bound and you get tired of watering every day.
Or cut an X in the btm of your solo cup and transplant when the roots growing out the btm of the cup. Takes a little leap of faith but it works.
Transplanting early before a rootball is solid causes issues when transplanting like broken root ball... thats bad.
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- #17
dynamohum
Well-Known Member
I also grow mine into a root ball according to container size.
dynamohum
Well-Known Member
Am now transplanting into final flowering pots. Am working with strains of Glue, White Widow and Glue crossed which grow quite well by the way, also have a new strain called Kiwi. that I started from seed and then grew till I could take clones and they are progressing quite nicely. Have some Bubble Gum seeds on the way.
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- #20
