Volksball's First Grow: White Widow Feminized Grow Journal 2018

depends on the soil and how much you want to change it... 20% is a number I see tossed around a lot. That 1.5 oz number assumes you have not done any LST or topping too... but i would average 2-3 oz per plant ... depends on so many things... how long you veg... how well you trained the plant, etc.
Cool. Thx. Well, I've read the surface of many of the things you've mentioned and have some of an idea about training and basic techniques to do so. I suppose my thought was to grow with what I have and have good people, like you, shoot out ideas as the grow progressed. Or were nice enough to answer rookie questions as time went on. You've alluded to the best ingredient for a good grow is expertise...thanks for that.
 
Here's a question:

Does anyone have a good idea when I should switch my T5s and CFLs from 24/7 to 18/6.
I know some prefer to give them a break as seedlings but I've also read that the flowers also benefit from continuous light as well.

Do I switch schedules when I transplant them and put them under HPS? Earlier?

And I know vegging is a matter of experience, as is flowering. What are some opinions on both?

Thx.
 
I like to use a dim light to root seedlings that is set on 24/0. Once the seedlings establish, I switch to 18/6 for the rest of veg, with strong lights. I firmly believe that plants need that period of darkness in order to move things around in the plant and grow the root system without also having to deal with photosynthesis at the same time. Flowering has some tricks you can do in it too... but 12/12 is the old standard that always works.
 
I like to use a dim light to root seedlings that is set on 24/0. Once the seedlings establish, I switch to 18/6 for the rest of veg, with strong lights. I firmly believe that plants need that period of darkness in order to move things around in the plant and grow the root system without also having to deal with photosynthesis at the same time. Flowering has some tricks you can do in it too... but 12/12 is the old standard that always works.
So, based on what you told me about root growth yesterday, my seedlings would be established? So I should get them on a timer for now?

I'll tackle the 'when to switch from veg to flower' question in a bit, but I'd want to know when is the earliest I should and could get them under HPS. Christmas is coming and kitchen counter top grow apparatus might leave little room to entertain with. Ha. I was told to pot up once the leaves were as wide as the cup mouth.
 
that is my personal preference, but I hesitate to say it is by far the only way to do it because as soon as I do, 10 people will jump on with alternatives and reasons to do so... but you got to decide to do something. :) My suggestion is to experiment liberally as you are doing this thing and take good notes of what works and what doesnt. Your grow space and your way of doing things is different than anyone elses, so you need to figure out what works for you.
You can really put them under the hps anytime after the young things can stand the light, and even then you can put the light way up high so as not to burn them. HPS is fine for now... and if you talk to them in Europe a lot of people use HPS all the way through and claim it to be superior.
I hear a lot of rumors that begin with "I was told..." There is not a race to up pot. To decide when to up pot you have to ask yourself, why did we down pot? Why do we start in a smaller container and move up... why not start out in a 10 gallon? Well you know by now the reason is that we are working on building up the roots. So that smaller container is a restriction of a kind, so as to build up the best roots that there ever were, right in that tiny space. It is well controlled by your proper watering, and there is no advantage to moving out of there until something tells you that is finally causing a problem to be in that tiny space that you are filling up with roots.
Think of your soil as a buffer that allows you to suspend water and nutrients in, for the plants. At first that buffer gives you 3-5 days where the container does what we put plants in a container for, it automates this process for you for 3-5 days. But soon that root ball becomes able to suck up that water faster and faster, diminishing your buffer time between needed interactions with the container. The reason... and the rule as to when to up pot, is when your buffer goes to 24 hours. When the plant can finally use up all the water you can put in that container, in 24 hours, it is time to up pot. It is just coincidental that in some plants and sometimes and in some containers, the diameter of the leaves extending over the cup edge happens at just about this same time. One method of understanding why we do this is a guess... the other is a valid scientific reason.
Now having said that... early in my learning curve... I too spoke about the circumference of the leaves in regards to up potting... we all have to begin somewhere.
 
that is my personal preference, but I hesitate to say it is by far the only way to do it because as soon as I do, 10 people will jump on with alternatives and reasons to do so... but you got to decide to do something. :) My suggestion is to experiment liberally as you are doing this thing and take good notes of what works and what doesnt. Your grow space and your way of doing things is different than anyone elses, so you need to figure out what works for you.
You can really put them under the hps anytime after the young things can stand the light, and even then you can put the light way up high so as not to burn them. HPS is fine for now... and if you talk to them in Europe a lot of people use HPS all the way through and claim it to be superior.
I hear a lot of rumors that begin with "I was told..." There is not a race to up pot. To decide when to up pot you have to ask yourself, why did we down pot? Why do we start in a smaller container and move up... why not start out in a 10 gallon? Well you know by now the reason is that we are working on building up the roots. So that smaller container is a restriction of a kind, so as to build up the best roots that there ever were, right in that tiny space. It is well controlled by your proper watering, and there is no advantage to moving out of there until something tells you that is finally causing a problem to be in that tiny space that you are filling up with roots.
Think of your soil as a buffer that allows you to suspend water and nutrients in, for the plants. At first that buffer gives you 3-5 days where the container does what we put plants in a container for, it automates this process for you for 3-5 days. But soon that root ball becomes able to suck up that water faster and faster, diminishing your buffer time between needed interactions with the container. The reason... and the rule as to when to up pot, is when your buffer goes to 24 hours. When the plant can finally use up all the water you can put in that container, in 24 hours, it is time to up pot. It is just coincidental that in some plants and sometimes and in some containers, the diameter of the leaves extending over the cup edge happens at just about this same time. One method of understanding why we do this is a guess... the other is a valid scientific reason.
Now having said that... early in my learning curve... I too spoke about the circumference of the leaves in regards to up potting... we all have to begin somewhere.
That is one informative answer. Thank you for taking the time. I'll likely refer back to that one a few times. The 24 hour rule seems quite easy to follow.
 
Hi guys,

I just read that I should be using my veg nutrients as soon as the first leaves form. I've earlier read that nutrients need not be introduced until the 3-4 week mark.

Who to believe? My seedlings are now 10 days old and the leaf spans about 1.5"ish.

Growing in organic soil. Will add perlite to the next pot up.

Still in solo cups and water seems to dry out after 48 hours.

Thx.
 
Hi guys,

I just read that I should be using my veg nutrients as soon as the first leaves form. I've earlier read that nutrients need not be introduced until the 3-4 week mark.

Who to believe? My seedlings are now 10 days old and the leaf spans about 1.5"ish.

Growing in organic soil. Will add perlite to the next pot up.

Still in solo cups and water seems to dry out after 48 hours.

Thx.
Believe no one. Set up an experiment and see for yourself.
 
Ha. Thanks. I'll give em a bit, then try in a week or two. It was sort of what I was thinking. Here's a couple of photos. I cant help but watch these things grow. It's been decades since I've watched a plant grow. Grade 3 maybe.

Day 10.
 

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Hi again guys,

Sorry for what some might consider 'overposting', but I can be meticulous. And learning...

I've posted some overhead shots of my 3 plants from today. They're abeled by day and plant #. Ignore the wet soil, they were watered today.

#1 is thriving the best. Leaves growing out wide and fast. Correct?

#2 seems to have a bit of an injury on one of her leaves, or could it be something else? And does she look healthy?

#3 seems to be growing unevenly from side to side, but I dont think there are real concerns. Am I right?

If someone has a second, could they please comment on what my plants look like? Healthy? In need of...

Viable?

Thanks,
Volksball
 

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Patient, talk to them ,give em some Co2!
Did you water as per instructions?
I don’t see a problem, but I’m learning soil !
Thanks, West. We have chats all the time. Ha.

Yep, the watering is just as I've been instructed.

Just worried about the one's hurt wing. So, it's good they all look ok to ya.

Thx!
 
Watch it tomorrow, it will give more of an idea or no problem at all!
When you think you might need to do something with your plants but are not absolutely certain, wait 12 hours.
We have the ability to move 1000x faster than our plants, but that doesn't mean we should! - Emilya
Patience above all else! - Rusty Trichome
So, another day has passed and they're still purple, but not much had changed. I'm not too concerned because the leaves are nice and green, firm and stems seem to be strong in the breeze. Growth seems to have slowed a bit, but I might be watching a pot boil, if you know what I mean.

I'm going to grab a PH kit today. I've read that it could be characteristic of a PH problem. Not a bad thing to monitor anyway, if I want full nute absorption, I'm told.

I have all materials for transplant into a 2gal grow bag when the watering buffer reaches 24h. Perlite as well. Will put them under the MH when that happens. Likely early next week, but sooner than later, I think. I'll be able to keep temps better controlled along with humidity. My kitchen counter just isnt the greenhouse I hoped it would be. Having trouble keeping humidity in an open environment. Grabbed a small humidifier to keep moisture up once we hit the tent!

Thx for the help, guys. Weigh-in please, if see or hear anything concerning.

Volksball
 
Good morning, weekenders...

I woke up this morning to have a look at my girls and while they've grown, the one that used to be the strongest most pretty, seems a bit down.

Any ideas? Or is she just fine? The others, while less symmetrical and pretty, are standing up tall and firm.

I wonder if I've over watered (or under??) but when I did water, the cups were light. They could have been lighter, but by no means were they saturated. It's been 48 hours since the last water, and the cups feel like they're about 12 hours from needing a drink.

Thanks!
 

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