What yield do these strains have realistically?

[Kodiak420]

guerilla grow

gorilla grow,

Sorry had to.

But seriously, @The Celt has got you covered. providing you some solid advice.

@Stunger is from NZ, but not gorilla/guerilla growing... Might be able to help with some ingredients readily available there, I believe he grows organically.

I've always grew guerilla style, close to marsh land and in corporated that soil with any other decomposing old fallen trees, fungi right into the shoveled out hole. Guerilla growing, nature around can provide a lot it nutrients. Unless you're in a desert I guess.

Always had great yields low side half pound high side three pounds per plant. Of course some years were better\worst than others.

Good luck

 

[Phillybonker]

Sorry had to.

But seriously, @The Celt has got you covered. providing you some solid advice.

@Stunger is from NZ, but not gorilla/guerilla growing... Might be able to help with some ingredients readily available there, I believe he grows organically.

I've always grew guerilla style, close to marsh land and in corporated that soil with any other decomposing old fallen trees, fungi right into the shoveled out hole. Guerilla growing, nature around can provide a lot it nutrients. Unless you're in a desert I guess.

Always had great yields low side half pound high side three pounds per plant. Of course some years were better\worst than others.

Good luck

Sounds like you got a great growing environment.

Thanks for letting me know there is someone else here from NZ, much appreciated.

Yeah I missed that the spelling and meaning was different. After all these years of saying "gorilla warfare".

 

[Stunger]

New Zealand. I plan to put the plants in the ground at the end of November but I'll germinate em in late October.

Hey PB, I'm in NZ too. I will be shortly germinating some seeds to have in their pots early October. Sorry, I can't help you on estimates of yields per strain. I think just give them a good environment and they'll do their best accordingly.

@Stunger is from NZ, but not gorilla/guerilla growing... Might be able to help with some ingredients readily available there, I believe he grows organically.

Haha. I am growing organically and I chuck some worms in the mix when I reamend my containers. They seem to live happily for the whole grow and are still there at harvest. My mix if anything is probably closest to Clackamas Coots soil recipe, altho I have acquired a few more ingredients over the years that I add as well rather than waste them. Any 'hot' ingredients you add will probably have to settle/cook for a month before you plant so you don't burn their roots. Good luck!

 

[Phillybonker]

Hey PB, I'm in NZ too. I will be shortly germinating some seeds to have in their pots early October. Sorry, I can't help you on estimates of yields per strain. I think just give them a good environment and they'll do their best accordingly.

Hi Stunger,

I thought plants get put down in late October?, or you growing indoors or autos?

 

[Kodiak420]

Yeah I missed that the spelling and meaning was different. After all these years of saying "gorilla warfare".

I wasn't making fun, really, it happens all the time. I wasn't trying to be grammar police.

Sometimes guerilla warfare is very gorilla like .

I'm not guerilla growing anymore, I'm in Canada so we are legal so only backyard growing for me now. But I have lots of foest to forage in all around me.

If you start a journal I'd watch.

 

[Kodiak420]

growing organically

Thought so, but I've been alot tonight so couldn't recall quickly...

 

[Kodiak420]

Yield is only roughly based on strain. Mostly, yield has to do with the local growing conditions, such as the quality and strength of the light, nutes if used, the mineral content of the soil, and how much water they get. There is no way to answer your question... there are just too many variables. Anyone giving you a number would just be blowing smoke at you.

Take a look at the breeders' estimates in an outdoor environment for those strains. Those will be "optimistic maximum yields." Assume that, if you're only able to visit your garden once per week, that you won't get near those estimates. Hope for 50% to 60% of those. Maybe you'll get lucky and beat that. If not, hopefully you won't be disappointed with what you do get.

If they end up getting crowded by neighboring vegetation, lower the estimate even more.

and if there are deer out there, concede half to them. They love nibbling on cannabis.

Add in that the time the plant has been growing. I am going to use my location in the US as an example because our summer season will be different than the southern hemisphere. A plant that started in April will be taller, wider and should have more size to it than a plant that was started in early July. Both of them would start to flower in mid August when the nights are getting long enough for the plants to produce the right hormones. But, one is going to be larger than the other.


Other vegetation like shrubs, trees and vines that are growing nearby can crowd the plant that you are trying to grow. If these other plants are taller they might shadow the plant. If they are to close they can shade the plant. The roots from the other plants can mix with the roots of your plants and both of them are trying to absorb available nutrients and especially water that is available in the ground.

Lastly, experience definitely seems to make a difference. The more experience a grower has the more likely he or she will have a larger and better quality harvest.

How good are you at growing, and growing conditions impact yields more than genetics. I get pounds/plant in the greenhouse with plenty of nutes, sun, water and warmth. That goes for most strains.ggest you use granular organic dry fertilizer mixed into the top 2 inches of soil.

I've never done a Gorilla grow but it seems to me that autoflowers would work best.
They're smaller, need less attention, need less nutrients, easier to conceal.

Great point. Optimize the sun by planting so the solstice is half way through the grow.

That's how I do it, per the instructions on the bag. You add more every month or so, work it in and water well.

Oh I definitely didn't mean to dismiss everyone else, all the advice here is solid.

Stoned and forgot to add in other quotes.


Time to go offline for tonight obviously.

 

[Phillybonker]

I wasn't making fun, really, it happens all the time. I wasn't trying to be grammar police.

Sometimes guerilla warfare is very gorilla like .

I'm not guerilla growing anymore, I'm in Canada so we are legal so only backyard growing for me now. But I have lots of foest to forage in all around me.

If you start a journal I'd watch.

I sure hope my growing is better than my spelling.

I didn't know it was legal to grow in Canada. You guys are lucky. Here in NZ we're going to have a referendum on legalizing cannabis, but early signs say it's not looking like it's going to pass unfortunately.

 

[Kodiak420]

You guys are lucky.

We are.

early signs say it's not looking like it's going to pass unfortunately.

That sucks. Hard to believe this day and age.

 

[Stunger]

Hi Stunger,

I thought plants get put down in late October?, or you growing indoors or autos?

Only outdoors for me. I grew my first auto last year, a Gorilla Glue. This year I plan on an CBD Express auto, the rest will be photos. Last year I germinated mid September and once the seeds showed a tap root I put them in the pots outside. I'll start a bit later this year as I am growing in stealth where I can't have my plants growing over 2.5 feet tall so once under way and especially during stretching I have to restrain their growth by supercropping. I will probably germinate my seeds in a few days time. I think you just have to be mindful that the young seedlings ideally don't want to be caught in a cold snap if your environment is too far south. And if you got snails and slugs around it might be useful sprinkling some slug bait around the planting area as if they're about they can chomp right thru the young seedlings as I found last year when a slug topped one of my young plants which thankfully survived and went on to give me close to 10oz. Slugs also chomped into the others before I cottoned on and put some bait out on the ground around my containers which solved the problem.
The common advice in NZ is to germinate on labour weekend and harvest at Easter, but unless you've living in Bluff I think it is fine to germinate earlier (I've had no problem doing so), and when it comes to harvest I prefer to do it at the point the trichomes are where I want them to be.

 

[Phillybonker]

I've never done a Gorilla grow but it seems to me that autoflowers would work best.
They're smaller, need less attention, need less nutrients, easier to conceal.

Look out for @Kodiak420 he's going to be on you

Only outdoors for me. I grew my first auto last year, a Gorilla Glue. This year I plan on an CBD Express auto, the rest will be photos. Last year I germinated mid September and once the seeds showed a tap root I put them in the pots outside. I'll start a bit later this year as I am growing in stealth where I can't have my plants growing over 2.5 feet tall so once under way and especially during stretching I have to restrain their growth by supercropping. I will probably germinate my seeds in a few days time. I think you just have to be mindful that the young seedlings ideally don't want to be caught in a cold snap if your environment is too far south. And if you got snails and slugs around it might be useful sprinkling some slug bait around the planting area as if they're about they can chomp right thru the young seedlings as I found last year when a slug topped one of my young plants which thankfully survived and went on to give me close to 10oz. Slugs also chomped into the others before I cottoned on and put some bait out on the ground around my containers which solved the problem.
The common advice in NZ is to germinate on labour weekend and harvest at Easter, but unless you've living in Bluff I think it is fine to germinate earlier (I've had no problem doing so), and when it comes to harvest I prefer to do it at the point the trichomes are where I want them to be.

How many OZ's did your Gorilla Glue auto produce?

Will autos be okay out in the bush growing in the ground?

I read that cannabis plants need 12 hours of darkness per day for 7 days to go to flower, but since in NZ we only start getting 12 hours of darkness starting 28th March, that would mean that when the plants flower 7 days later, the plants will only have 2 weeks of flowering before Easter harvest. How do you deal with this problem?

What strain gave you 10 OZ's?, the gorilla glue?

Thanks for the advice about the slugs and snails. Have you had any problems with anything else attacking your seedling plants in their first 4 weeks of life?

 

[Stunger]

How many OZ's did your Gorilla Glue auto produce?

Just under 4oz

I read that cannabis plants need 12 hours of darkness per day for 7 days to go to flower, but since in NZ we only start getting 12 hours of darkness starting 28th March, that would mean that when the plants flower 7 days later, the plants will only have 2 weeks of flowering before Easter harvest. How do you deal with this problem?

Photoperiod plants will naturally start flowering usually a few weeks after solstice, for my outdoor plants that is usually in early/mid January when they are beginning to show pistils in earnest. Depending on the visual cues of the trichomes I have harvested from late March to mid April.

What strain gave you 10 OZ's?, the gorilla glue?

I would have to check my journal (it's in my sig). But from memory I got about 23oz from 3 plants, the GG auto and 2 photos, a White Widow, and a White Widow x Gorgonzola cross.

Thanks for the advice about the slugs and snails. Have you had any problems with anything else attacking your seedling plants in their first 4 weeks of life?

No, but be careful not to overwater the young seedlings, you don't want to get the fungal 'damping off' infection as the stems will rot and die. Later on in flowering it will be caterpillars and spider mites that can infest the plants.

 

[Phillybonker]

Just under 4oz

Not bad for an auto

Photoperiod plants will naturally start flowering usually a few weeks after solstice, for my outdoor plants that is usually in early/mid January when they are beginning to show pistils in earnest. Depending on the visual cues of the trichomes I have harvested from late March to mid April.

Thanks, this is the answer I was looking for. I was wondering how every ones plants started flowering without the 12 hours of darkness per day.

When do you estimate my plants could potentially start flowering if I start germinating on labour weekend?

I would have to check my journal (it's in my sig). But from memory I got about 23oz from 3 plants, the GG auto and 2 photos, a White Widow, and a White Widow x Gorgonzola cross.

That'a big yield from 3 plants, if you exclude the auto then the two photos produced 19 OZ's, or roughy 10 OZ's per plant!!

No, but be careful not to overwater the young seedlings, you don't want to get the fungal 'damping off' infection as the stems will rot and die. Later on in flowering it will be caterpillars and spider mites that can infest the plants.

I'll be careful not to over water.
Yeah those moth larvae/caterpillar things. Someone I know ended up with those all over his buds which caused the buds to rot. How do you deal with caterpillars and spider mites? The person I know simply spent a lot of time picking each caterpillar out of his buds.

 

[TorturedSoul]

I read that cannabis plants need 12 hours of darkness per day for 7 days to go to flower

That's not true across the board. It's just a convenience for indoor growers. Most 100% indicas and many nearly-100% indica-dominant hybrids will begin to flower if they receive at least 10 hours of uninterrupted darkness, or not much more than that. Many more indica-leaning hybrids will be flowering by the time the local light:dark schedule is at 13:11. If an indoor gardener decided to adopt that schedule for those strains, however, it would significantly extend the flowering period length. And an equatorial sativa probably wouldn't even begin to flower. They evolved where the day:night length is a constant 12:12 throughout the year. Some of them could take the majority of that year to go from sprout to harvest, lol. It's rare these days to see a strain that has a flowering period of 16 or more weeks, but... some people will run an 11:13 (or even 10:14) light schedule in order to shorten the flowering period of longer-flowering strains. Yield suffers, but much in life is a trade off.

Basically, you'll see some strains begin flowering earlier in the year than others. As the night length increases, flowering will hasten.

 

[Phillybonker]

That's not true across the board. It's just a convenience for indoor growers. Most 100% indicas and many nearly-100% indica-dominant hybrids will begin to flower if they receive at least 10 hours of uninterrupted darkness, or not much more than that. Many more indica-leaning hybrids will be flowering by the time the local light:dark schedule is at 13:11. If an indoor gardener decided to adopt that schedule for those strains, however, it would significantly extend the flowering period length. And an equatorial sativa probably wouldn't even begin to flower. They evolved where the day:night length is a constant 12:12 throughout the year. Some of them could take the majority of that year to go from sprout to harvest, lol. It's rare these days to see a strain that has a flowering period of 16 or more weeks, but... some people will run an 11:13 (or even 10:14) light schedule in order to shorten the flowering period of longer-flowering strains. Yield suffers, but much in life is a trade off.

Basically, you'll see some strains begin flowering earlier in the year than others. As the night length increases, flowering will hasten.

What about Power Plant?, that's a sativa dominate strain, can I assume it would need 12:12 to switch?

 

[Stunger]

Thanks, this is the answer I was looking for. I was wondering how every ones plants started flowering without the 12 hours of darkness per day.

When do you estimate my plants could potentially start flowering if I start germinating on labour weekend?

As @TorturedSoul said, the 12/12 hours that you are referring pertains to indoor growing where as long as the gardener keeps the lights on for 16/18/20 hours or whatever, the plant will not flower, i.e. it wont flower until they change the lighting schedule down to provide a long enough period of uninterrupted darkness which will trigger flowering in the plant. As you are not indoor gardening you don't have to be concerned about this. This is the same as nature, the plant wants to make hay while the sun shines and will grow lots of branches that will eventually grow flowers/buds, but when nature's sunlight decreases and the nights start getting longer, then flowering is triggered in the plant, it knows autumn/winter is coming so once the nights start getting longer the plant wants to start it's flowering phase so it can finish in time before the weather/seasons go against it. If you are growing outside under natural sunlight, then in NZ, I would expect that you'd see the plant going into flowering most likely sometime in January, i.e. pistils will start appearing indicating flowering has started.

So to answer your question on when your plants will start flowering if you start germinating on Labour weekend. It wont matter when you start your plants off! They will start flowering regardless of when they were germinated solely when they start to detect the longer nights, i.e. most likely some time in January for NZ, e.g. to illustrate this, I have started a plant as late as the 2nd week of December and still it started flowering in January, of course the yield is less in that case because the plant has not had much time to grow it's base before growth stops and flowering begins. So if you want bigger yields then germinate the plants once the weather is good to do so and then the longer the plants veges for the bigger it'll get before flowering starts and therefore will produce more colas/buds. Some people may germinate 2 or 3 weeks earlier indoors and then put them outside once it warms up. But you have to then be careful, because if you germinate when there is not much light the seedlings tend to stretch and grow spindly and may need to have some support in the first 2 or 3 weeks otherwise they can fall over. There are lots of informative journals that folks have done here at 420, that you can look at to get an idea of how they have gone about it.

That'a big yield from 3 plants, if you exclude the auto then the two photos produced 19 OZ's, or roughy 10 OZ's per plant!!

Yes that's right, those plants were trained with supercropping, LST and Quadlining to never get higher than 2.5 feet, but they were in Veg mode for 4.5 months by being started in mid September. So 4.5 months of vegging allows a big rootbase and canopy to be built. The canopy of the 2 photos was close to 4.5 feet across with one plant and just under 4 feet across with the other. So to use your example of starting in Labour weekend, I started mine last year 6 weeks earlier than that (mid Sept), so they had more time to grow big before flowering started.

'll be careful not to over water.
Yeah those moth larvae/caterpillar things. Someone I know ended up with those all over his buds which caused the buds to rot. How do you deal with caterpillars and spider mites? The person I know simply spent a lot of time picking each caterpillar out of his buds.

I regularly spray BT spray for caterpillars every 10 days - 2 weeks to kill the caterpillars, and I also did some spraying with Neem, Dr Bronner's liquid Castille soap, and insecticide soap to rein in spider mites. My advice would be to be proactive against pests, because if you do nothing and get an infestation it can be like the guy you mentioned picking the bugs out and losing a lot of his harvest to rot which can happen when caterpillars and bugs start chomping down on your precious buds.

If I was you, I would check out a few grow journals and get an idea for what you are up against. Being prepared and ready can make the difference of getting a good harvest or having to settle for a lightweight harvest and running out of stash mid winter! Of course you can get lucky and chuck some seeds in the forest and grow trees but mostly I think when left to luck alone this doesn't happen!

 

[TorturedSoul]

We used to say plant four times as many as you want to harvest. "One for the deer, one for {other animal varied}, one for the explorer - and one for me!"

 

[Phillybonker]

As @TorturedSoul said, the 12/12 hours that you are referring pertains to indoor growing where as long as the gardener keeps the lights on for 16/18/20 hours or whatever, the plant will not flower, i.e. it wont flower until they change the lighting schedule down to provide a long enough period of uninterrupted darkness which will trigger flowering in the plant. As you are not indoor gardening you don't have to be concerned about this. This is the same as nature, the plant wants to make hay while the sun shines and will grow lots of branches that will eventually grow flowers/buds, but when nature's sunlight decreases and the nights start getting longer, then flowering is triggered in the plant, it knows autumn/winter is coming so once the nights start getting longer the plant wants to start it's flowering phase so it can finish in time before the weather/seasons go against it. If you are growing outside under natural sunlight, then in NZ, I would expect that you'd see the plant going into flowering most likely sometime in January, i.e. pistils will start appearing indicating flowering has started.

So to answer your question on when your plants will start flowering if you start germinating on Labour weekend. It wont matter when you start your plants off! They will start flowering regardless of when they were germinated solely when they start to detect the longer nights, i.e. most likely some time in January for NZ, e.g. to illustrate this, I have started a plant as late as the 2nd week of December and still it started flowering in January, of course the yield is less in that case because the plant has not had much time to grow it's base before growth stops and flowering begins. So if you want bigger yields then germinate the plants once the weather is good to do so and then the longer the plants veges for the bigger it'll get before flowering starts and therefore will produce more colas/buds. Some people may germinate 2 or 3 weeks earlier indoors and then put them outside once it warms up. But you have to then be careful, because if you germinate when there is not much light the seedlings tend to stretch and grow spindly and may need to have some support in the first 2 or 3 weeks otherwise they can fall over. There are lots of informative journals that folks have done here at 420, that you can look at to get an idea of how they have gone about it.

Ahhh I see now. 12/12 is for indoor growing. I was worrying for most of the day about that. I can relax now. Thanks

Yes that's right, those plants were trained with supercropping, LST and Quadlining to never get higher than 2.5 feet, but they were in Veg mode for 4.5 months by being started in mid September. So 4.5 months of vegging allows a big rootbase and canopy to be built. The canopy of the 2 photos was close to 4.5 feet across with one plant and just under 4 feet across with the other. So to use your example of starting in Labour weekend, I started mine last year 6 weeks earlier than that (mid Sept), so they had more time to grow big before flowering started.

So that extra 6 weeks helped you to get 10 OZ plants. I wonder how many OZ's everyone else is averaging in NZ per plant?

I'm going to have to try my best to be on point with every aspect of my growing to maximize the yield including using high yield strains which max out at 21 OZ's.

I regularly spray BT spray for caterpillars every 10 days - 2 weeks to kill the caterpillars, and I also did some spraying with Neem, Dr Bronner's liquid Castille soap, and insecticide soap to rein in spider mites. My advice would be to be proactive against pests, because if you do nothing and get an infestation it can be like the guy you mentioned picking the bugs out and losing a lot of his harvest to rot which can happen when caterpillars and bugs start chomping down on your precious buds.

Being proactive against pests is a very good idea. Thanks for recommending BT spray, Neem and Dr Bronner's liquid Castille soap, all organic sprays to!!

If I was you, I would check out a few grow journals and get an idea for what you are up against. Being prepared and ready can make the difference of getting a good harvest or having to settle for a lightweight harvest and running out of stash mid winter! Of course you can get lucky and chuck some seeds in the forest and grow trees but mostly I think when left to luck alone this doesn't happen!

I didn't think to check out some journals. I'll do that. Thank you for your help

 

[Phillybonker]

We used to say plant four times as many as you want to harvest. "One for the deer, one for {other animal varied}, one for the explorer - and one for me!"

I hope I don't lose 75% of my plants to animals and explorers. I do expect to lose some but hopefully not that many.

50% of my plants lost to animals? I have to find a solution.

 

[Stunger]

So that extra 6 weeks helped you to get 10 OZ plants. I wonder how many OZ's everyone else is averaging in NZ per plant?

Remember the plant will reach it's potential maximum yield only if you give it the means to do so. I would imagine most people grow under restraints, very few I think are in a position to pull out all stops to maximize yield.

I'm going to have to try my best to be on point with every aspect of my growing to maximize the yield including using high yield strains which max out at 21 OZ's.

There is a lot of different factors that influence a high yield. If you want to see what real high yielding plants can bring, try googling 'mendo dope boys' and check the images out, they don't speak in ounces but in pounds and they prune their plants while on ladders.

I didn't think to check out some journals. I'll do that. Thank you for your help

You should, everyone's grow experiences challenges so by looking at journals you can learn from other's experiences.

I hope I don't lose 75% of my plants to animals and explorers. I do expect to lose some but hopefully not that many.

50% of my plants lost to animals? I have to find a solution.

Young plants can be very tasty to animals and bugs, so if you got rabbits or livestock about you may have to put protective netting around them until they get hardy enough. Try to find some people's journals who have grown in similar conditions to what your grow will be. Most people do poorly in their initial grow/s, the best thing you can do is read up on how other's approach growing and that way you have a good chance to avoid pitfalls that can lead to a meagre harvest.