Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
I plan on doing some high stress stuff to my plants - lollipopping and supercropping. My question is - what is the best way to lower stress levels in the plants....what about foliar spraying with seaweed liquid??
What's the best way to lower stress levels in plants?
- Thread starter Phillybonker
- Start date
You can always reduce the light intensity until they bounce back
High stress with reduced stress? 
- Thread starter
- #4
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
Sorry I should have mentioned this is an outdoor grow.
There is no need for stressing outside, just let the f'kers go for it
- Thread starter
- #6
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
High stress with reduced stress?
Yep I'm going to be lollipopping the plants and supercropping at some stage, that will put them under a lot of stress which will slow growth which what I'm trying to avoid if possible. For example, when I transplant I give them seaweed liquid to reduce transplant shock.
- Thread starter
- #7
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
I live in a high humidity climate and I want to lollipop the plants for air flow. I also want to supercrop the plants in the first two weeks of flowering in an attempt to reduce the size of the bud sites (gain lots of small bud sites rather than big colas), because big colas soak up moisture like sponges and mold up fast. I was told by another grower a while back that supercropping will get the bud sites to grow vertical rather than grow into one big cola.
Plants in an outdoor guerilla grow like you have going probably will not show any signs of stress with the methods you are mentioning as long as the environment is OK to good. The plants will slow down for maybe a day or two and I figure it will not be noticeable after a week.
As long as the soil is moist, the roots healthy and enough nutrients in the soil I doubt that you will notice any slowdown to the plants when you come back to visit the next time.
- Thread starter
- #9
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
Yeah it's going to be tough trying to help them out anyway due to the long hike into the area, multiple grow spots and the large number of plants. The reason I'm trying to avoid any slow down is because they don't have much time to veg out due to germinating late in the season.
It might be surprising how much they will end up growing to make up for lost time.
The plants will not be as large because of the shorter time. Once the days shorten the flowering time between the start of bud development and harvest will be the same no matter how late the plants went into the ground.
If the weather and rains co-operate the harvest might be a bit less as far as quantity but you might not notice that because the quality should still be there. A sort of "going for quality and the quantity will take care of itself".
- Thread starter
- #11
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
I hope your right
Yep, flowering will start between the 1st and 7th of February.
The weather is going to be crap for at least the next 7 days, not raining and not sunny, just cloudy.
The good thing of not having sunny conditions is that the plants will not dry out within days. The ground will stay moist enough that the plants should not wilt or slow down their growth. Instead they will be able to grow a good root and vascular system and when the sun returns they will still be able to absorb enough water to keep growing a nice decent sized canopy.
- Thread starter
- #14
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the idea, I forgot about FIMing, I'll give it some serious thought, it would be less stressful on the plant. I'll see where they are at with their growth stage, it might be a bit too late to FIM, but I'll see.
- Thread starter
- #16
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm looking for, an even canopy and small bud sitesThis is what FIMming will get you. I think I over did it.
I'll study up on FIMing and go from there. How many times did you FIM your plants to get them like that?
Are you netting your plants? Outdoor ScrOG? I've seen people do it. Reports are that it makes it easier to keep them pruned for maximum flower weight. Also helps keep nosy neighbors from seeing your tall plants peeking over the fence if that is an issue.
When I train the girls I do one topping once they hit 5th or 6th node, let them go nuts making leaves and branches and 1 - 2 weeks before I flip the light schedule I FIM every site on the plant I can. Maybe you can mimic the scrog by doing some LST to keep your canopy level?
Of course, I have the luxury of controlling how much light my girls get and when I want them to start flowering so if you try this method you're going to have to figure out when the days are shortening enough for you to start fimming.
When I train the girls I do one topping once they hit 5th or 6th node, let them go nuts making leaves and branches and 1 - 2 weeks before I flip the light schedule I FIM every site on the plant I can. Maybe you can mimic the scrog by doing some LST to keep your canopy level?
Of course, I have the luxury of controlling how much light my girls get and when I want them to start flowering so if you try this method you're going to have to figure out when the days are shortening enough for you to start fimming.
- Thread starter
- #18
Phillybonker
Well-Known Member
I've got too many plants to do netting and I want to keep my costs down to a reasonable amount. If I only had a few plants I'd definitely be netting.
Flowering starts 1st - 7th February. When do you think is the best time to start FIMing?, 2 weeks before flowering?
Yeah! Gives them time to establish the flower sites and gets some girth on the branches to hold up the flowers.
