What's the issue? First grow
- Thread starter PistolPete80
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
Absolutely and have been doing that. Right now, it's maybe 12" tall so even after stretch would be manageable.You would likely want to use LST on her and stretch her out rather than let her grow UP
- Thread starter
- #23
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I've read through that and many, many other basic guides.
- Thread starter
- #24
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
Update for Day 43 after providing a full feed yesterday as per FF nute schedule. They appear to be getting worse. This could be a lag, meaning they would have gotten worse before getting better, but I am really worried. I have not done a slurry test yet as frankly, I am not sure how to get soil from the lower part of the container out without messing up the roots combined with the feedback here that it's highly unlikely the soil PH has changed in 40 days using brand new soil.
While it's fun learning, it's frustrating when you have issues like this and can't seem to figure it out. Am wondering if I should do a complete flush (3X the water of the container size) and then provide a fresh feeding? It just makes zero sense it's a PH issue given the soil and that I triple check my input PH every single time with multiple PH meters that I constantly calibrate.
While it's fun learning, it's frustrating when you have issues like this and can't seem to figure it out. Am wondering if I should do a complete flush (3X the water of the container size) and then provide a fresh feeding? It just makes zero sense it's a PH issue given the soil and that I triple check my input PH every single time with multiple PH meters that I constantly calibrate.
Attachments
Many deficiencies can take a week to show up so they take longer than overnight to get show improvement.
- Thread starter
- #26
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
Thank you once again. I am about to do the slurry test shortly. If my PH is really low or super high EC/PPM levels would you recommend I do a full flush?
Have you been checking runoff EC compared to input?
I take soil for slurry testing from the outside edge about halfway down, figuring those feeder roots are the easiest to replace.
I take soil for slurry testing from the outside edge about halfway down, figuring those feeder roots are the easiest to replace.
- Thread starter
- #28
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
I've checked my runoff PPM a few times, not in the last week though, especially as I hadn't fed for two watering cycles. When checking previously, my PPMs were in range.
Stupid question - how exactly do you go along the outer edge? What do you use to scoop it out? I was thinking maybe I would try to extract some soil from the holes in the very bottom of my container???
Stupid question - how exactly do you go along the outer edge? What do you use to scoop it out? I was thinking maybe I would try to extract some soil from the holes in the very bottom of my container???
If you're in cloth pots, roll them down. If you're in plastic, slide the plant out. I just use a plastic spoon!
- Thread starter
- #30
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
Oh my goodness, you're suggesting I actually take the whole thing out of the container? LOL. That terrifies me!!!
Your root mass should be solid at this stage go ahead and do as @InTheShed has suggested we know our stuff at 
- Thread starter
- #32
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
Okay I was able to get some off the bottom by putting a small slit into the container (widening my drain holes) and getting some out that way. I hope that is ok. I did it before BeanTownFan replied.
Just carefully slide it out with one hand and scoop out the soil with the other! If the plant sticks to the sides, gently squeeze the plastic all around and push up on the bottom. That should loosen it.
The bottom soil won't have been in contact with the roots for long enough to get an accurate reading.
The bottom soil won't have been in contact with the roots for long enough to get an accurate reading.
- Thread starter
- #34
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
Ok just did a slurry test. One was 5.1 and the other 5.5, both with PPMs around 300 (using 700 scale). I did two tests on each one, one from the root area and another on the side as you recommended. Both came out the same.
What's interesting is the feeding I just did yesterday had 2300 PPM. So this tells me both the PH is really low, and there are no nutes - could they have been absorbed that quick???
Given the PH, should I do a complete flush and then feed?
What's interesting is the feeding I just did yesterday had 2300 PPM. So this tells me both the PH is really low, and there are no nutes - could they have been absorbed that quick???
Given the PH, should I do a complete flush and then feed?
Let's start with the fact that your pH is well below the normal pH for FF soil, which is around 6.3-6.8. So that needs to be raised.
There are a number of ways to quickly raise the pH of soil, and I know that @Virgin Ground has done it before, but I don't know how soon she'll see this. She used lime for hers.
It did take time though:
Potassium bicarbonate is close to baking soda if that's all you can get your hands on, as described here:
"You can use baking soda, too. This is a cost-effective method that is quick and easy to do. Baking soda also does not last as long as lime (similar to the ashes) but can produce results in just a few days. Baking soda is fairly gentle on both the soil and the plants, so you won’t have to worry about harming your plants.
Mix a tablespoon of baking soda into a gallon of water. (You can use this ratio to increase or decrease the amount you need, based on the size of your garden.) Be careful not to add too much baking soda or use too much of this mixture in your garden, as it could create an imbalance. You can do this every few months as needed to maintain the optimum soil pH."
Source
By the way, 2300 PPM is crazy high for nutrient solutions! When I ran the trio I was at around 1200 (not including the tap water) in full flower. Have you measured the PPM of your straight tap water?
There are a number of ways to quickly raise the pH of soil, and I know that @Virgin Ground has done it before, but I don't know how soon she'll see this. She used lime for hers.
It did take time though:
Potassium bicarbonate is close to baking soda if that's all you can get your hands on, as described here:
"You can use baking soda, too. This is a cost-effective method that is quick and easy to do. Baking soda also does not last as long as lime (similar to the ashes) but can produce results in just a few days. Baking soda is fairly gentle on both the soil and the plants, so you won’t have to worry about harming your plants.
Mix a tablespoon of baking soda into a gallon of water. (You can use this ratio to increase or decrease the amount you need, based on the size of your garden.) Be careful not to add too much baking soda or use too much of this mixture in your garden, as it could create an imbalance. You can do this every few months as needed to maintain the optimum soil pH."
Source
By the way, 2300 PPM is crazy high for nutrient solutions! When I ran the trio I was at around 1200 (not including the tap water) in full flower. Have you measured the PPM of your straight tap water?
If you want to raise the pH up see if you can get your hands on some fertilizer with a 15-5-15 NPK which has a higher potential basicity and should bring the pH up within about a week. Maybe 1-2tbsp/gal. should do the trick.
Sure thing. The ppm level is odd too but I don't know if he was talking about the nuted solution or the runoff. I'd guess his water is low, alkaline wise, to drop it that fast.
- Thread starter
- #39
PistolPete80
Well-Known Member
My tap water is 170-200 PPM. The Fox Farm feeding schedule calls for 1960-2180 on 700 PPM scale. I will look into Potassium bicorbonate and see how quickly I can obtain it. So I assume doing a full flush (3X the soil volume) with PH'd water will not raise the soil PH?
Water won't change the pH of the soil, only the roots interacting with what's in the water will do that. I don't think flushing is the answer because the soil might still be wet when you find what you need to raise the pH. Then you might be drowning the roots by watering too often.
